Pasto Salado and other peaks. In different trips to the mountains located some 15 miles west of Vicuña, Coquimbo province, northern Chile, youths of the Colegio Inglés of the town of La Serena made the first recorded ascents in late 1974 of Diablo...
Masherbrum Attempt. A British expedition led by David Hamilton attempted to climb Masherbrum but apparently was unsuccessful. Details are still missing.
Noshaq. I reached the summit of Noshaq on August 25. My companion, Gerry Martens, turned back only 200 feet below the main summit because of bad weather.*Brian R. Gregory, Free-lance Alpine Research Team* The Americans had joined forces with three...
Apostelens Tommelfinger, Suikarsuak, South Greenland. The French Alpine Club’s expedition was led by Marceau Agier and composed of M. and Mme Bernézat, C. Bourleaux, B. Clouet, S. Jouty, J. Michaud, Y. Morin, Dr. H. Muler, F. Pelatan, B. Renard, G...
Zermatt im Winter und Sommer, by Walter Schmidt, vest-pocket size, 120 pages, 84 illustrations, and index, published in Bern, Switzerland, 1958 (in German).This little jewel of a guide book to the Zermatt area, adapted primarily for an individual ...
Bear Creek Spire, South Face, British Chimney Route. On July 5, I took Nigel Gifford, a veteran of British Army expeditions to Nuptse and Everest, on a day climb in the gentle wilderness of the High Sierra. While I hoped to introduce him to a chal...
P c. 8500, Near Jankowski. On August 6 Jim Hilton and I made the first ascent of an unnamed peak of about 8500 feet near the Granduc Mine, two miles south-southwest of Jankowski and three miles north of Mitre Mountain. We ascended from the pass ju...
P 13,355, South Face, Mount Whitney Area. Attracted to this large wall so close to the Whitney region, yet still unclimbed, Bill St. Jean, Alan Bartlett and I found ourselves on this face last June. Our route follows a line left of center, beginni...
Mount Whitney, Northeast Ridge. After more than a dozen ascents of this mountain by what I assumed to be all different sides, I was most surprised when Claude Fiddler pointed out an unclimbed ridge on the highest peak in the 48 contiguous states. ...
Araral and Other Peaks. The purpose of the Argentinian-Italian 1978 Expedition to southern Bolivia was to locate signs of ancient Indian occupancy on high summits. Its program could not be fully carried out because of transportation problems. On A...
The Jallawaya/Nigruni-Mountains, Various Ascents. The Jallawaya/Nigruni-Mountains, part of the Cordillera Real, have a lot of small glaciers. The highest peak is Jallawaya (5660m). A small rough road accesses the range, but if there is a lot of ra...
Petit Grepon, South Face. The Petit Grepon is a startlingly slender blade of rock located near Sharkstooth in Rocky Mountain National Park. Though it rises little more than 100 feet above the notch which separates it from the mountain mass behind,...
Kangchungtse (Makalu II) Attempt. A Spanish Basque expedition was led by Carlos Ochoa and composed of Iñigo Barandiaran, Imanol Ollaguindía, Juan Oyárzabal and Atxo Apellaniz. They attempted the south ridge of Kangchungtse (7640 meters, 25,066 fee...
Pronghorn, East Face. This impressive face, near Middle Fork Lake, continues to be elusive. The classic route appears to be near midface, close to vertical for a full 1,100 feet; some of the cracks appear to have loose flakes, others are seamed. L...
Nevado Santa Cruz, South Face and Other Climbs, 1984 and 1985. Marco Suarez and I climbed on August 4, 1984 the south face of Santa Cruz (6241 meters, 20,476 feet). We followed the left side of the wall until we reached the southwest ridge at arou...
Momhil Sar Attempt. The members of our expedition were José Espona, Raúl Ferrara, Guillermo Fernández and I. We hoped to ascend the unclimbed west buttress of Momhil Sar (7343 meters, 24,092 feet). We traveled up the Gharesa Glacier and turned nor...
Cerro Azul, Maule Region, Winter Ascent. Cerro Azul (3800 meters, 12,467 feet) was ascended in winter and descended on skis for the first time on August 2 by José Loyola, Ricardo Bustos, Patricio Peñaloza, Alejandro Avedaño, Juan Cárdenas and Germ...
New Hampshire: Mount Washington. On 1 May 1949 Dr. Paul Schiller, a Harvard research associate and Hungarian scientist, plunged into a water-filled bergschrund on the top of the headwall of Tuckerman’s Ravine. A crew of eight found the lifeless fo...
Lobuje West. Yuji Kamakura, Yoshihiro Taguchi, Mrs. Akiko Kanazawa, Miss Keiko Nishihira, Dr. Ken Kanazawa and I settled Base Camp on September 16 on the Lobuje Glacier at 5000 meters. Within a week we made a route in the labyrinth of a huge icefa...
La Esfinge, Welcome to the Slabs of Koricancha. On June 18, Slovaks Dusan Beranek, Rado Staruch, and I reached the top of La Esfinge (5,325m), having climbed a new route, Welcome to the Slabs of Koricancha (650m, 13 pitches, V 5.13b), via the larg...