Book Reviews AAJ
Classics in the Literature of Mountaineering and Mountain Travel from the Francis P. Farquhar Collection

Classics in the Literature of Mountaineering and Mountain Travel from the Francis P. Farquhar Collection, an annotated bibliography by James R. Cox. Los Angeles: University of California Library, 1980. 58 pages, illus. Price $25.00.Some years ago ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Spantik-Sosbun Mountains, Sosbun Tower, Attempt, and Nameless Peak, Ascent

Sosbun Tower, Attempt, and Nameless Peak, Ascent. Even if they are “veterans” of the Karakoram, few climbers know the name of the Sosbun Tower. These rocky towers are located in the Sosbun Glacier. Taeko Yamanoi and I were with Daisaku Nakaga, wit...


Club Activities AAJ
Iowa Mountaineers

Iowa Mountaineers. The club’s 30th anniversary year was a very active one. The annual banquet in April attracted 158 members from seven states with Harvey Carter of Aspen, Colorado, the guest speaker. A series of 18 film-lectures was presented by ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Nevado Yanapaccha Noroeste, Hay Que Ser Humildes South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca

Nevado Yanapaccha Noroeste, Hay Que Ser Humildes. In mid-August Carlos Pineda and I climbed a direct line on the southwest face of Nevado Yanapaccha Noroeste (Noroeste I; 5,290m). This Nevado is situated southeast of well-known Nevado Chacraraju...

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Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna IV

Annapurna IV. We climbed the normal route, the north face and northwest ridge of Annapurna IV. From our 4800-meter Base Camp we placed three camps 5200, 5800 and 6360 meters. We two guides, Jean Frank Charlet and I, seven clients and Sherpas Mingm...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Oregon, Mount Washington, West Face

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONOregon, Mount Washington, West FaceOn Thursday, July 29, Thomas Siefert (46) and Gary Gentz (50) were making their first attempt at climbing the West Face of Mount Washington in the Oregon Cascades. Oregon High, ...


Feature Article AAJ
Adak Memories

Adak MemoriesKenneth A. HendersonWHEN the rain beats down heavily or the wind threatens to tear off the roof, I often think back longingly to the year and a half that I spent in the Aleutians, and in fancy carry myself back to that weirdly beautif...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine—Chilean Patagonia, Fitz Roy, East Buttress, El Corazón Route

Fitz Roy, East Buttress, El Corazón Route. On December 13, 1991, Michel Pitelka and I reached the Río Blanco Base Camp below Fitz Roy. Our objective was the aesthetic line on the 1300-meter-high east buttress of Fitz Roy. The bad weather during De...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Africa, Morocco, Taghia, Tabouimmt N'Tsouiannt, Fantasia

Hidden deep in the mountains, 85km from the nearest city, Taghia has recently become a climbing Mecca for Europeans. However, this region has been quietly explored since the 1970s, mainly by Spanish. Massive limestone walls and deep canyons form a...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Joshua Tree National Monument

Joshua Tree National Monument. There is a variety of rock climbing to be found in this large Southwestern desert preserve. Here one can climb on large tumbled piles of monzonite and granite or upon individual boulders which rise from 30 to 150 fee...


Feature Article AAJ
Tolosa

TolosaArthur B. Emmons 3rdON a previous visit to the vicinity of Aconcagua in the Argentine Andes during February, 1944,1 our party had passed close beneath the imposing buttresses of one of the principal peaks bordering the Horcones Valley on the...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Placed Inadequate Protection, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Organ Pipes

FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTIONColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Organ PipesOn April 28, 1991, Charles Sharp (34) took a 15 foot lead fall while leading the second pitch of Organ Pipes on the Twin Owls at Lumpy Ridge, Rocky Mounta...


Book Reviews AAJ
Sherman Exposed: Slightly Censored Climbing Stories

Sherman Exposed: Slightly Censored Climbing Stories. John Sherman. Seattle: Mountaineers Books, 1999. 238 pages. $24.95.Here we have John Sherman’s collected articles—30 of them, almost all written during the 1990s and most having first appeared i...


In Memoriam AAJ
Winthrop Benton Greene, 1869-1939

WINTHROP BENTON GREENE(1869–1939)Rev. Winthrop Benton Greene died in Philadelphia on December 6th, 1939, at the age of seventy, following a long illness. A graduate of Williams College and of Union Theological Seminary, he was former assistant pas...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, First Ascent of the Mustagh Tower, Northwest Arête

First ascent of the Mustagh Tower, Northwest Arête. Under the leadership of John M. Hartog, the British Baltoro Expedition 1956 made the first ascent of Mustagh Tower, 23,860 feet. The other members of the party were Ian G. McNaught-Davis, Joe Bro...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall in Crevasse, Inadequate Equipment, Inexperience, British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount Robson

FALL IN CREVASSE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCE British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount RobsonC.C. and W.R. were descending Mount Robson (3955 meters) on August 5, 1993, after climbing the Fuhrer Ridge. As they were crossing the Robson Glaci...


Feature Article AAJ
Quo Vadis

Quo VadisHenri Sigayret, Groupe de Haute MontagneTHE NUMBER 26,247; does this mean anything to you? No? I must correct you since it corresponds in feet to the mystic altitude of 8000 meters. But the metric system is not used all over the world. No...


In Memoriam AAJ
Toni Hiebeler, 1930-1984 and Aleš Kunaver, 1935-1984

TONI HIEBELER1930-1984ALEŠ KUNAVER1935-1984It is unusual for the A.A.J. to publish obituaries of non-members, but in 1984 we have suffered the loss of three very close collaborators of our journal. Toni Hiebeler, his wife Traudl, Aleš Kunaver and ...


Book Reviews AAJ
The Vertical World of Yosemite

The Vertical World of Yosemite is a fine collection of personal climbing accounts by Yosemite climbers. It brings together the ways and motives of men who climb, the technical and ethical developments accompanying climbing advances, historical bac...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Southeastern China, Namcha Barwa

Namcha Barwa. The Japanese Alpine Club has permission to try this remote peak in a joint expedition with the Chinese in 1991. In November and December, a reconnaissance party of 4 Japanese and 6 Chinese led by Tsuneo Shigehiro explored the west-no...