The Crossing of Antarctica. The Commonwealth Trans-Antarctic Expedition 1955-1958, by Sir Vivian Fuchs and Sir Edmund Hillary. Boston: Little, Brown and Co., 1958. 328 pages; 30 color photographs, 63 black- and-white photographs, 9 maps. Price $7....
Ford Butte. Ford Butte is mentioned in Herbert Ungnade’s Mountains of New Mexico, but precious little history of climbing on it is recorded. This volcanic plug has three separate and distinct summits, the highest being either the north or south su...
Carlos Buhler and I planned a 17-day trip into the east side of the Cordillera Huayhuash, with hopes of climbing Yerupaja as the final objective. After an acclimatization period in the Cordillera Blanca, on July 9 we drove to the village of Querop...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, WEATHER, INFLEXIBILITYWyoming, TetonsOn August 1, 1984, James Drake (23) and Robert Shannon (24) attempted to climb the Northeast Snowfields route on Mt. Owen in Grand Teton National Park. About 1500, Drake, unroped...
Snow Blindness*Bradford WashburnSnow blindness is so incredibly painful that no one who has had it will ever willingly run the slightest chance of getting it again. If you’ve ever wondered whether you’ve had it, you haven’t! And, unlike many uncom...
Kamet, 1984. The Assam Rifles of the Indian Army organized an expedition to mark the beginning of their 150th anniversary celebrations due in 1985. The 25-member team was led by Brigadier P.L. Kukreti. Base Camp was set up at 16,000 feet on Septem...
HAPE/HACEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonOn August 8 about 0400, Ranger McPherson contacted Rangers Holm, Larson, and Montopoli at the Lower Saddle hut. On August 7, Dan and Selanta McPherson (25 and 22) had successfully ascended th...
Rebawe Mountain, Delayed Gratification. In July, 1998, Alard Hüfner and I had reached a high- point 250 meters up the impressive Dos Amigos Face on Rebawe Mountain. We were stumped by a 20-meter section of blank wall connecting a pinnacle (on whic...
FALLING ROCKWashington, Mount Rainier, Fuhrer FingerAt 0720 on June 29, while ascending Fuhrer Finger, Brian Benedict was hit by rockfall and sustained an open fracture of his tibia and fibula. Benedict was a client of a Rainier Mountaineering Inc...
Climbing and Skiing in the Waddington AreaFred BeckeyA LONG cherished desire to climb in the B. C. Coast Range was realized when on July 1st, 1942, Helmy Beckey (my brother) and I1 of the Seattle Mountaineers began backpacking up the Franklin Rive...
The online version of these reports frequently contains additional photos, maps, topos, and extended text. Please visit aaj.americanalpineclub.orgAll ascents reported took place in the 2010–11 season, unless otherwise stated. In the summaries, Dam...
OVERDUE CLIMBERS, SUBTERFUGE California, Yosemite ValleyOn June 25, 1988, Mike Orland contacted Ranger Mike Mayer to report that two of his friends, Dave Bridges (19) and Darryl Macias (25), were overdue from the Southwest Face of Washington Colum...
Dhaulagiri’s East FaceNick Estcourt Memorial ExpeditionAlex MacIntyre, British Mountaineering CouncilIn THE FIRST WEEK of November of 1979 Wojciech Kurtyka, a member of the Polish expedition to the north side of Dhaulagiri, struggled through waist...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE CLOTHINGNorth Carolina, Shortoff Mountain, Little CornerOn Saturday March 17, M. McNeely (age unknown) and her husband David, both experienced climbers, were attempting Little Corner (5.6) a rock climb located on Shortoff ...
Die Schweiz im Spiegel englishcher Literatur 1849-75, by Hans Lohrer. 147 pages, with bibliography and index. Zürich: Juris- Verlag, 1952.The British visitors to Switzerland before 1850 were primarily interested in scenic grandeur, and this is ref...
Climbs above the Quebrada Ulta, Cordillera Blanca. On June 28 the Californians, Henry W. Kendall, Carl Heller, Ernst Bauer, John Lomart and Dave Brown, were joined in Carhuás by their Peruvian porters, Macario Angeles, Octaviano Zuñiger and Pablo ...
THE WOUNDED, BUT surviving, tiny taxi entered the Koritko driveway in Rawalpindi close to midnight. Kim Schmitz, a tall, lean mountain guide from Lake Tahoe and I had hardly extricated ourselves before Andy, our host, slammed a cold Heineken i...
Akshirak and Pamir Alai Ranges, Various Ascents. In July, Chris Seashore, Carol Petrelli, Blase Reardon and I went to the Akshirak Range in eastern Kyrgyzstan for ski mountaineering. The range is a day’s drive (by old slow Russian army truck) due ...
Mitsinjoarivo, east face. In September Sandro Borini, Paolo Stoppini, Daniele Zinetti, and I put up a new route on the east face of Mitsinjoarivo. It proved to be a magnificent route with varied climbing. We equipped all eight pitches with 8mm sta...
The Mountaineers. Climbing activity in Washington continued to increase during 1957. This fact stressed the importance of educational and safety programs of The Mountaineers. More than 400 took the climbing courses in Seattle, Tacoma, and Everett....