Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rocks, Fall on Rock, Poor Position, Washington, Lundin Peak

FALLING ROCKS, FALL ON ROCK, POOR POSITIONWashington, Lundin PeakOn September 10, Rob Crapo (37) successfully summitted Lundin Peak (6,057 feet) at 1330 with six members of the Seattle Mountaineers. Rob, an experienced climber with an extensive re...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
China, Qonglai Shan, Chengdu Region, Daxuetang (5,364m), First Ascent

Daxuetang (5,364m), first ascent. Daxu- etang lies almost due south of Siguniang and is the highest peak within the boundaries of Chengdu city. It borders Wolong Giant Panda Nature Preserve, and we approached and climbed the mountain from that sid...


Book Reviews AAJ
Canadian Landscape

Canadian Landscape, by F. H. Brigden, with biographical notes by J. E. Middleton. 4to; 112 pages with many illustrations, including 24 color plates. Toronto: The Ryerson Press, 1944 and 1945. $5.00.This fine volume presents the work of a man of gr...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Gaurishankar Attempt

Gaurishankar Attempt. A seven-man Austrian expedition led by Franz Huber attempted the southwest ridge of Gaurishankar but reached only 19,000 feet. Very strong winds on the night of April 19 to 20 destroyed so many tents and ruined so much equipm...


In Memoriam AAJ
James W. Walsh, Jr., 1887-1958

JAMES W. WALSH, JR.1887-1958Devotion to the out-of-doors and loyalty to the organizations of which he was a member were two of Jay Walsh’s outstanding characteristics. Jay’s interest in climbing, skiing, and cross-country walking dated back to an ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Mount Everest, Post-Monsoon

Mount Everest, Post-Monsoon. In the post-monsoon, on the South Col route for Everest, there were three parties: seven South Koreans with an equal number of climbing Sherpas; a team of four French, two Belgian and one Swiss with four Sherpas; and o...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Merrimac Butte, The Hyper-Crack on the Anchor Chain

Merrimac Butte, The Hyper-Crack on the Anchor Chain. Both the Monitor and the Merrimac Buttes, named for the armored ships which fought each other during the Civil War, are prominent landmarks 12 miles northwest of Moab. They are composed of reddi...


Accident Reports ANAM
California, Yosemite National Park, Washington Column (2)

California, Yosemite National Park, Washington Column (2). Unexpected fine weather prevailed on the morning of 9 November giving the prospect of a good day for climbing the piton traverse route on Washington Column in Yosemite Valley. David Coward...


Feature Article AAJ
Mount Everest, 1952

Mount Everest, 1952Norman G. DYHRENFURTHAll writing by members of the Swiss Everest expedition of 1952 is copyrighted by the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, Zurich. This article by our member appears entirely as a courtesy to the American Al...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Idaho, Jughandle Mountain, Various Routes

Jughandle Mountain, various routes. The northwest face of Jughandle Mountain (8,340') is directly above picturesque Louie Lake, near McCall, in the Salmon River Mountains. I ran across this face in 1999 during a hike with my kids. Over the last fe...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, Hypothermia, Frostbite — Alaska, Mount McKinley

FALL ON SNOW, HYPOTHERMIA, FROSTBITEAlaska Mount McKinleyOn June 4, 1982, two Japanese climbers were discovered at the 5000-meter level of the West Rib of Mount McKinley. They were unconscious and had to be evacuated to the High Latitude Research ...


Feature Article AAJ
Solo Khumbu Climbs: First Ascents After Lhotse

Solo Khumbu Climbs: First Ascents After LhotseFRED BECKEYEncouraged by the magically clear skies of the Solo Khumbu autumn, George Bell, Dick McGowan, and I planned a few climbs before the return march from Thangboche. Accordingly, we left Base Ca...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru—Cordilleras Huayhuash and Raura, Yerupajá, East Spur Attempt, 1982

Yerupajá, East Spur Attempt, 1982. An Italian expedition composed of Ugo Vialardi, leader, Giovanni Boggio, Tiziano Fiorese, Fabrizio Badone and Mauro Penasa failed to complete a partially new route on the east spur of Yerupajá. The beginning of t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Masherbrum II, Ascent

Masherbrum II, Ascent. It was reported that a Pakistan Army expedition that had wanted to climb Masherbrum I turned their attentions to a 6200-meter peak 12 kilometers to the southeast of Masherbrum I. Ten members are thought to have reached the s...


Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche — Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Charlton

AVALANCHEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount CharltonA party of three registered at the Jasper Visitor Center on September 16, 1983, and were cautioned that climbing conditions were marginal. The next day they took the charter boat up Maligne Lake and...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Ecuador, Cotopaxi, Chimborazo, El Altar

Cotopaxi, Chimborazo, El Altar. Although our expedition was committed to scientific aims, we did two ascents. On August 26 Nigel Bunn and I climbed Cotopaxi. It is well to avoid the route described in several books as it is heavily crevassed and p...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Cerro Lomas Amarillas, South Face and Other Ascents

Cerro Lomas Amarillas, South Face and Other Ascents. Because of its easy access by way of the Vallecito ski resort, the massif of Cerro de la Plata has had all of its peaks and most of its difficult faces climbed. In late 1987, M. Sanchez and C. T...


Accident Reports ANAM
Failure to Follow Route—Stranded, Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount Edith, South Ridge

FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE-STRANDEDAlberta, Banff National Park, Mount Edith, South RidgeOn May 14, two male climbers (38 and 26) got lost while climbing the South Ridge of Mount Edith (2,554 meters) just west of Banff. They did not have very good in...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Baffin Island, Mt. Thor, Absolute End

Mt. Thor, Absolute End. This summer saw the first-ever Polish climbing expedition to the big-wall paradise of Baffin Island; it culminated in an impressive new line on the north- facing flank right of the main west face of Mt. Thor. Thor’s west fa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Africa, Ruwenzori

Ruwenzori: The Belgian expedition to this range this past summer found very favorable weather, having had several fairly clear days, and as a consequence were able to draw an accurate map and determine the altitudes of the peaks. A number of ascen...