FALL ON ROCK—INADEQUATE PROTECTION (CLIMBER AND BELAYER), NO HARD HATCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Church Bowl, Bishops TerraceAfter work on July 28, Ric Sedlak (20) and I, Amy Painter (21), headed for the Church Bowl to climb Bishops Terrace (one ...
Roscoe Bjerg, Scoresby Land. A flight to the Staunings Alps takes one over the Liverpool Coast, a forbidding angular coastal belt of mountains that runs northwards from Scoresby Sund (70° 30' N) for about 60 miles. Because the peaks are low (maxim...
Colorado: Snowmass Peak (14,077 ft.). On 26 August 1949 Arthur Gallager (21), a Yale student from Colorado Springs, slid to his death in a rock slide. Eye-witnesses said that he slipped from a ledge while he was descending from a summit of the pea...
Foraker, Pink Panther Route. Dave Harries and Chris Smith repeated the difficult Pink Panther route on Mount Foraker during the spring.Scott Gill
California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. McAdie. On 15 June Anita Ossofsky (27), Seymour Ossofsky, and Barbara Lilley were ascending Mt. McAdie from Arc Pass. They traversed from the East face of Middle Peak to Gulley which divides Middle and North Peaks. A...
Lobuje East. Our French and Swiss expedition was composed of Denise Hembise, Samyr Lazizi, Bernard Nief, Franco¸is Ryter, Serge Chartoise and me. After an approach of 12 days, we placed Base Camp beside a lake at 5000 meters below the southeast ri...
Nevado Quitaraju, south face, clarification. The Bullock-Powell Route (AAJ 2002, p. 295-6) begins to the right of the Slovenian Route, but after continuing near that line for several pitches, diverges left to attain the arête very close to the sum...
Annapurna III Attempt and Tragedy. An Italian expedition led by Maurizio Maggi was called off immediately after the death of Massimo Caslino, who was struck by a falling sérac on September 26. He fell about 350 meters and his body was found the ne...
Noshaq. Our American Hindu Kush Expedition arrived at Base Camp at the foot of the west ridge of Noshaq on August 3. Kharposht-e-Yakhi (18,688 feet) was climbed on August 7 by D. and A. George, Arlene Blum, Joel Bown, S. Darling, and Leslie (Toby)...
Black Dike of Mt. Moran, August 20, 1949. This unique route, followed by Dick Pownall and Dave Van de Water, goes up the face of the diabase dike so prominent from Jackson Hole. In the upper sections both loose rock and difficult climbing were enc...
Peak 6250, Ascent, and Namlo Karpo, Attempt. New Zealanders Peter Cammell, John Cocks, Cam Falkner, Martin Hunter, John Nankervis and Adrian van Schie spent five weeks in the Kongpo region of eastern Tibet in the autumn. Accompanied by Tibetan mou...
Nun Attempt and Tragedy. Our expedition had as members Jed Meyer, William Ogbum, Mike Seavers and me as leader. Our original aim was to climb the difficult east ridge of Nun from Base Camp on the Shaffat Glacier and then to traverse the mountain b...
Iowa Mountaineers. During the past year many of our 400 members climbed in numerous mountain ranges of the world. The weekend climbing outings continued as in the past with 15 to 40 members on the rocks almost every Saturday and Sunday. Fourteen c...
Nuptse Northwest, 1989. [On page 228 of AAJ 1990, we made brief mention of this excellent climb. We now have the report.—Editor.] Our expedition consisted of Andreas Dick, Thomas Simon, Thomas Stöger, Hajo Netzer and I as leader. We set up Base Ca...
Don Bosco, Southern Patagonian Icecap. Noel Cox, Steve McAndrews, Randy Udall and I spent six weeks from early March to mid-April in the Cordillera Darwin and along the Upsala Glacier. The usual murderous climate gave us only 2½ days of good weath...
Kumbhakarna Attempt. Four Swiss led by Hans Rauner attempted to climb Kumbhakarna (Jannu) by the south ridge. They reached 6500 meters on October 25.Elizabeth Hawley
STRANDED - UNABLE TO FREE RAPPEL ROPE, WEATHER, HYPOTHERMIAWyoming, Devil's TowerOn the evening of May 23 rd, the park received a call from two stranded climbers (ages unknown) who were on the southwest face of the tower, asking for help. Aaron Tu...
Fifth Ascent of Trisul, Garhwal, and ascents in Lahul. The Bavarian brothers, Adolf and Fritz Hieber, and the Bombay lawyer, Keki Bunshah, with Sherpa Gyalzen Minchung ( H. C. No. 163) and his brother Wangdi, were active in the mountains just sout...
Nalivkin Glacier, Malitskovo Glacier; Pik 4,828m (Sigma Peak), first ascent; Piks 5,055m (Hidden Peak), 4,975m (Snow Dome), new routes; other ascents. We chose the western Kokshaal Too region for its potential for first ascents. Also called “The F...
Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park—On July 30, a party of 15 Tacoma Mountaineers under the leadership of Stan Engle were camped at Steamboat Prow in preparation for a scheduled experience climb ofMount Rainier via the Emmons Route, the followin...