P 13,520 and “Bateman’s Tower” (P 12,880—one-half mile east of the Thumb). In June, 1979 our party made two first ascents in the Birch Creek area of the Palisades. Peter von Gaza and Lars Mollor completed a snowy couloir on the north face of P 13,...
In the face of a tough economy, our club was able to achieve its overall goals. With substantial effort, we met our fund-raising targets and exceeded our membership goals. We also moved forward on many fronts.I his year’s Craggin’ Classic was held...
P 9011, “Leopold Dome”, Burt Miller Route, 1981. After hiking six miles around Courtwright Reservoir, climbing a few pitches and sitting out a rainstorm, Alan Swanson and I were nearing the summit of the “unclimbed” P 9011. Upon seeing a hook hole...
Mountaineering Club of Alaska, Inc. The Mountaineering Club of Alaska, Inc. was formed in 1958 and currently has approximately 250 members. Membership is open to the general public. There are no prerequisites for membership.The M.C.A. holds annual...
Mountaineering Photography—Old StyleW. H. JacksonI am an honorary member of three mountain climbing clubs.These memberships were conferred, however, not so much for mountain climbing alone as, I am led to believe, for what was gained by it. Photog...
Through a Land of Extremes: The Littledales of Central Asia.Elizabeth and Nicholas Clinch. Foreword by Christian Bonington.London: Sutton Publishing, 2008. 324 pages. $75.00.Never heard of the Littledales? Neither had anyone else. They were appare...
Lhotse, Second Ascent. The Swabian Himalayan Expedition was composed of Joachim Baumüller, Michel Dacher, Hans von Känel, our only Swiss, Max Lutz, Dr. Wolfgang Schaffert, Hannelore Schmatz, Günter Sturm, Peter Vogler, Dr. Hermann Warth, Peter and...
The official definition of a winter ascent in China and Tibet seemed to have been resolved with the January 2005 ascent of Shishapangma by Piotr Morawski and Simone Moro. They were issued a certificate from the CTMA (China Tibet Mountaineering Ass...
Huandoy Traverse. After acclimatization and training climbs on Pisco, Chopicalqui and Yanapaccha, on May 29 we started on our main objective, a traverse of the Huandoy group. We left our Base Camp on the Llanganuco Lakes and bivouacked at the foot...
Mt. Slaggard, Mt. Macaulay, Southeast Macaulay, Northwest Steele, Mt. Strickland, Ascents and Attempt. On April 16, Paul Claus of Ultima Thule Outfitters flew Paul Barry, Jim McDonough, Shawn O’Donnell, Kirk Towner and myself to 10,500 feet on the...
OLIVER M. SMART1886-1967Oliver Smart joined the Club in 1923 during the middle of a climbing career which had taken him to the Andes, the Alps, Selkirks, and finally Japan and China. After graduating from Yale with a degree in electrical engineeri...
William Preston “Bill” Elfendahl 1914-2004Bill Elfendahl, 89, Boeing engineer, one of REI’s founders, mountaineer, skier, sailor, and Scout leader died June 7,2004, in Seattle following a stroke.He was born November 30, 1914, in Alameda, CA, the s...
Chilpariti or "Wedge Peak," Cordillera Carabaya. On May 9 my wife Elspeth and I returned to Macusani. The next day, along with "Jorge," our porter from last year, we set off and established Base Camp where the New Zealanders had had theirs in 1967...
K2: The Price of Conquest. Lino Lacedelli & Giovanni Cenacchi. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2006. 124 pages. 30 BLACK & WHITE PHOTOS. $16.95.Was there ever a large climbing expedition that did not spew out rancor, ressentiment and the ...
When the words “Chinese” and “mountaineering” are used together, you probably think of siege-style expeditions on big-mountain routes established 50 or 60 years ago, involving large teams, huge amounts of time, money, and gear, and the “reach-the-...
Standard Encyclopedia of the World’s Mountains. Edited by Julian Huxley ; G. P. Putnam’s Sons, New York, 1962. 383 pages, 16 color plates, 12 maps, glossary, gazetteer. Price $10.95.Omne ens mensuram sumit a fine I believe the scholastic axiom goe...
Huayna Potosí, West Face and Illampu, Northwest buttress, Cordillera Real. Our purpose in going to Bolivia was to verify the Lay-back theory of climbing: to rest as long as possible, muttering about acclimatization, then to climb as fast as possib...
NEARLY STRANDED-RIGGING PROBLEMS, DARKNESS, FATIGUECalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Lost Arrow TipSasha Binford and I, Charles Zilm (32), set out to climb the Lost Arrow Tip (three pitches, 5.8 A2) on October 6. We had hoped to be off by early afterno...
HARRY PIERCE NICHOLS1850-1940In the death on November 15th, 1940, of our beloved past president, Harry P. Nichols, at the age of ninety years, the club mourns an outstanding personality. A member of the small but courageous group which formed the ...
Indian Army Expedition to Nun-Kun Massif, 1977. The massif can be described as a huge névé basin enclosed by a circle of seven peaks: Nun or Ser (23,410 feet), Kun or Mer (23,252 feet), Pinnacle Peak (22,808 feet), P 6800 (22,310 feet), White Need...