Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Spur Attempt

Mount Spurr Attempt. Our group was comprised of George G. Wis-well III, Brian Forbes and me. We landed on August 23 east of Mount Spurr by ski-plane at 3500 feet on the Capps Glacier. Trying to avoid the tremendous icefalls between the ridges and ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Sepu Kangri, Attempt

Sepu Kangri, Attempt. There is a range of mountains in Tibet comparable in length to the entire Swiss Alps that remains almost unknown. The eastern section of the Nyangla-Qen-Tangla Shan lies barely 300 kilometers north of the Himalayan frontier c...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine-Chilean Patagonia, Aguja Poincenot, Southeast Buttress

Aguja Poincenot, Southeast Buttress. Our expedition was composed of Graziano Bianchi, leader, Andriano Carnati, Alessio Bortoli, Massimo Colombo, Corrado Brustia, Mario Vismara, Bruno Vagletti and me. The base of the southeast buttress of the Aguj...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Ecuador, Farile Grande, El Altar Group

Fraile Grande, El Altar Group. The Italian Dr. Marino Tremonti has now completed his fourth expedition to the Altar group, two of which were in 1972. With Ferdinando Gaspard, Claudio Zardini, Armando Perron and Sergio Lorenzi, he attempted the Mon...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Malubiting North

Malubiting North. A Polish expedition led by R. Szafirski climbed the north summit of Malubiting (22,450 feet) on October 8. The central peak (23,920 feet) and the west peak (24,450 feet) still remain unclimbed.Günter Oskar Dyhrenfurth


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Argentine Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Torre Egger, Italian Route/Titanic Variation

Torre Egger, Italian Route/Titanic Variation. On December 31, Michael Mayr (“Much”) and I made our first trip to Norwegian Camp. We originally intended to attempt an alpine-style ascent of Badlands, but after inspecting it decided to look at the n...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, U.S., Wyoming, Tetons, Northwest Ridge of Teewinot, September 7, 1954

Northwest Ridge of Teewinot, September 7,1954. John Fonda, Jean Fonda, Don Decker, and Marty Benham followed this long ridge all the way from Cascade Canyon except for a detour in the middle to avoid some smooth sections. The route brings one out ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Steele Attempt

Mount Steele Attempt. Because the upper Chitina was too crevassed for a fixed-wing aircraft, we planned to land on the Walsh-Steele col. From there we would carry camps up the long, 10-mile southeast ridge of Mount Steele, traverse Steele and clim...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kande Hiunchuli and Patrasi Himal Attempts

Kande Hiunchuli and Patrasi Himal Attempts. Swiss and French led by Patrick Marendaz tried to climb Kande Hiunchuli by its northwest ridge but got only to 5600 meters on November 5. They were also turned back at 6000 meters on the south ridge of P...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Himlung Himal, Further Details of the Climb

Himlung Himal, Further Details of the Climb. Our expedition was composed of Osamu Hanai, Takeshi Yamaguchi, Minoru Masuda, Akio Koizumi, Norio Kawai, Hideaki Toda, Osamu Shimuzu, Kazuo Higuchi, Eiji Ishibashi, Ki- yokatsu Saito and me as leader. O...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Southwestern China, Syn Qing Feng or Buka Daban

Syn Qing Feng or Buka Daban. The members of our expedition were Toshiaki Sakaue, Takashi Masuda, Kazuyoshi Nakata, Akira Hayashimoto, Yoichiro Shirota and I as leader. On May 4, we placed Base Camp at 4900 meters and on May 7, Advance Base at 5600...


Notes AAJ
Activities of Members

Members are urged to send in a record of their climbs, together with any new information relative to the regions visited.Cary W. Bok climbed in the Alps last summer, ascending the Mönch; also Piz Bernina and others in the Engadine district.Helen I...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Real, Various Ascents

Cordillera Real, Various Ascents. In May and June, on an expedition to Bolivia, several country first ascents were achieved. They included: the first American and U.K. ascent of Janco Laya (5545m), May 22. The (possible) first American and UK asce...


Book Reviews AAJ
Mountains and Men

Mountains and Men, by Wilfrid Noyce. 160 pages, with four maps and 17 illustrations. London: Geoffrey Bles, 1947. 18,/-.Ten years ago, when Wilfrid Noyce was an undergraduate at King’s and the editor of Cambridge Mountaineering, 1938, he was alrea...


Feature Article AAJ
Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre

Fitz Roy and Cerro TorreAlan KearneyTHE MORNING of December 23 heralded the start of our third day on the North Pillar of Fitz Roy. There was enough light to begin climbing but we were tired. My partner Bobby Knight slept soundly and he needed the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Dragon's Horns, West Face, Beckwith-Traver Route Malaysia, Tioman Island

On July 17 Mathew Traver and I traveled to the Malaysian Island of Tioman in the South China Sea. Our objective was the first ascent of the west face of Dragon’s Horns (Bukit Nekek Semekut), a big wall rising from the canopy of the rainforest on t...

| Published N/A | Author Steve Beckwith


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Bugaboos Camp of the A.A.C.

Bugaboos Camp of the A.C.C. The 1946 camp of the Alpine Club of Canada was held during the latter half of July in the Bugaboos of the Northern Purcells, W. of the main range of the Canadian Rockies and S.E. of the Selkirks. Main camp was located a...


Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table III

TABLE III1951-941959-9419951995USACAN.USACAN.TerrainRock325238411714Snow1957293434Ice1727886River12300Unknown22600Ascent or DescentAscent295741011312Descent17892745412Unknown3246310Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock2147205777Slip on snow or ice72...


In Memoriam AAJ
Harold B. Burton, 1908-1992

HAROLD B. BURTON1908-1992Harold B. Burton died on March 8, 1992 at the age of 84 after a distinguished career as a newspaper reporter and author as well as a mountaineer who in World War II was involved with the training of thousands of soldiers i...


Feature Article AAJ
The Mt. McKinley Cosmic Ray Expedition, 1932

The Mt. McKinley Cosmic Ray Expedition, 1932Edward P. BeckwithIN looking backward to the spring of 1932 it is hard to imagine a more interesting proposal than that of Allen Carpe to join his expedition for measuring cosmic rays, which included a f...