McKinley, Cassin Ridge Variant. Our Slovak expedition was composed of Emil Hasík, Josef Nežerka, Igor Valiga and me as leader. After landing on the Kahiltna Glacier on May 20, for acclimatization we climbed that same day to 3000 meters on Mount Cr...
In mid-May we were hanging around Haines Junction, looking for Bill Karman, our helicopter pilot, who was supposed to take us to the Seward Glacier at the base of the Hummingbird Ridge, the main goal of our expedition. We walked into a restaurant,...
Lhotse Shar Attempt. South Korean Heo Young-Ho and Sherpas Ang Dorje and Ongchu attempted the normal route, the southeast ridge, of Lhotse Shar after leaving Kathmandu very late, on May 5. They reached 8100 meters on May 29 and then gave up. They ...
The Hand of Fatima, Harmattan Rodeo. For many years, my regular gang of climbing partners—Todd Skinner, Bobby Model, Andy deKlerk, Ed February, Scott Milton, Bill Hatcher and Peter Mallamo—and I were intrigued by photos we had seen in Spanish maga...
Langshisha Ri Southwest Summit. Leader Miroslaw Gradzielewski, Anna Bruzdowicz-Dudek and Jolanta Patynowska of a seven-person Polish expedition reached the southwest summit of Langshisha Ri (c.6145 meters, 20,160 feet) by its southeast ridge on Oc...
The First American Ascent of the Grépon. Does anyone know who made it? The earliest records available are curiously associated with a single surname. The editor has found nothing earlier than the traverses of Joseph Cooke Smith (1863-1942), undate...
In the Shadow of the Giants—Mountain Ascents Past and Present. Tom King. A. S. Barnes & Co., San Diego and New York, 1981. 262 pages, black and white photographs, sketch maps, glossary, bibliography. $11.95.If you are a mountaineering history ...
Marcus Baker, Chugach Mountains. In August, Kate Allen, John Wittmayer, Randall Jones and I spent twelve days relaying equipment up to the headwall of the Matanuska Glacier to our Base Camp. During this time we made two superb first ascents. From ...
Chalten massif, summary. The 2008-09 season had only one extended period of good weather, for almost two weeks in early December. Surprisingly, in spite of such a prolonged window, little new or “creative” climbing was done. The two most significa...
FALL FROM ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY New York, ShawangunksOn April 25,1986, a man (34) fell 12 meters while following on the third pitch of High Exposure (5.6). His belayer, a woman (30), suffered severe rope burns on her hands. She was using a body b...
Mt. Chancellor (10,761 Feet)—Canadian RockiesThe second ascent of this peak was made by Miss Georgia Engelhard with the Swiss guide, Ernest Feuz, on July 24th, 1931, almost exactly thirty years after the first ascent by Sir James Outram and party....
Everest Attempt. We established Base Camp at the terminal moraine of the Rongbuk Glacier at 16,900 feet on March 24 after a three-day truck trip from Lhasa. We were 12 climbers, including a doctor and two television reporters. Our plan was to clim...
Various ascents and descents. Wade McKoy, Porter Fox, Hal Thomson, Ptor Spriceneiks, and I found ourselves in the Cordillera Quimsa Cruz last June. A bit of ski mountaineering the main goal. A few peaks bagged. No signs of any other climbers or sk...
Austria, by Monk Gibbon. 8vo., 258 pages with 98 photographic illustrations, index, and 2 maps. London: B. T. Batsford, Ltd., 1953. Price, 18/—.A companion to John Russell’s Switzerland (1950), this book offers an excellent general survey of Austr...
Monte Bove, Cordillera Darwin, 1990. I directed an expedition for Spanish Television called “Al filo de lo imposible.” On December 12, 1990, we climbed Monte Bove (2300 meters, 7546 feet) by its east face. This peak had been climbed only once befo...
Anyemaqen. After leaving Italy on June 23, we got to Base Camp at 4300 meters on July 6. Following the north-northeast spur, on July 13 Ermanno Pollet, Rolando Menardi, Filippo Sala and Attilio Bianchetti reached the summit. The beginning of the r...
North Tower of Paine, new route. In February 2002 John Rzeczycki and I climbed a new route that went to the north summit of the North Tower in Torres del Paine Park. The route starts on the right side of the west face and shares the first pitch wi...
Colorado Mountain Club. Two outings were held with 68 persons attending the in-state Shavano outing and 35 the outing at Lake O’Hara, which was illustrated for club groups at Denver, Fort Collins, and Colorado Springs. Another popular program was ...
Chopicalqui and Neighboring Peaks, 1973. The Swiss Tiziano Baccaglio, Renato Simona, Enrico Malli, Ugo Zaccheo and Armando Castellani of Locarno climbed Chopicalqui by the normal route on June 11, 1973. Primo Mella stayed in Camp II with respirato...
Washington—Mt. Baring: On July 16, 1952 Richard Berge (23) and Fred Beckey and Tom Miller were descending a steep, lower ridge, about dusk and in fog after caching supplies for a future ascent of the North face of Mount Baring. They were about 15 ...