White Winds. Joe Wilcox. Hwong Publishing, Los Alamitos, California, 1981. 499 pages, black-and-white photographs, illustration, map, tables. $14.95.The 1974 American Alpine Journal has a review by Arlene Blum of Howard Snyder’s book of the tragic...
Antarctica, Overview and Various Activity. Unreported from the 1999-2000 season was the Swiss “Antarctique 2000” expedition to Wiencke Island. Traveling aboard the yacht Philos, skippered by Eric Barde, Laure Schmied, Eric Christinet, Michael Hilt...
Alaska, Chugach Range. On 7 August Naoyuki Morita (26), Tadao Inagaki (25), Junji Nakamura (43), and Yoshihara Mikama (31), were finishing up 10 days of scientific research on Eklutna Glacier prior to returning to Japan. These four with four other...
Manaslu Attempt. Both Catalan members, Enric Bassas and Francisco Barcelona, with sirdar Nima Dorje Tamang and Gyalgen Sherpa, pitched Camp at 5600 meters above Naike Col on April 8. That is as high as they got on the standard route. A heavy snows...
FALL ON ROCK–INADEQUATE PROTECTION, OFF ROUTE, INEXPERIENCEColorado, Boulder Canyon, Eagle RockOn June 5, J.H. (20) and Z.T. (20) were climbing the Great Dihedral, a 3-pitch, 5.5 trad route in the infrequently climbed Eagle Rock area of Boulder Ca...
Gasherbrum IV, West Face and Northwest Ridge Attempts. In the spring and early summer, eight Americans attempted Gasherbrum IV (7925 meters, 26,000 feet) by two routes. Attempts on both routes on this very difficult mountain failed to reach the su...
El Zapatero, Leones y Osos. Beginning March 24, Zack Martin and Sven Krebs established 12 pitches on an unclimbed wall in a remote valley. Traveling on dirt roads slashed across immense mountains south of Monterrey to the Parque Nacional Cumbres d...
Washington, Mt. Rainier. On 13 July Chris Marshall (16), David Stevens (28), and Mark Kupperberg (25), were descending Winthrop Glacier after a successful ascent. They were part of a party of fifteen on a climb sponsored by the Seattle Mountaineer...
Mituraju, west face and other activity. The Equipo Español de Alpinismo (Spanish Alpine Climbing Team) installed base camp at Jahuacocha lake - Gocha Cutan (4,066m) on May 20. From there they crossed a dangerous glacier and carried their equipme...
Hunter's Southeast Spur- Alpine StylePeter Athans*THERE HERE IS LITTLE left to do. Glenn Randall* relaxes back onto the hotel-room bed, his eyelids slowly falling shut. I have finished bandaging his frostbitten hands and the bulky dressings lie at...
DISLOCATED KNEE New York, ShawangunksOn July 7, 1986, a woman (23) was following and on the third pitch of High Exposure (5.6) when she dislocated her knee. On October 4,1986, a man (20) did the same thing when he was following on Jackie (5.5). (S...
Mt. Forbes and Mt. Freshfield. Early in the 1955 season, Don Claunch, Richard Irvin, and Fred Ayres back-packed up the Howse Valley, ascended the Glacier Rivers, and set up a high camp at timberline between Division Mountain and the east lateral m...
South Georgia. We left Cape Town in December, 1990 in the 19-meter yacht Diel, which was specially fitted with a lifting keel and other equipment for polar travel. We were four climbers: Paul Fatti, Doug Jamieson, Hilton Davis and I as leader; thr...
Nameless Tower, Eternal Flame, Second Ascent. In June and July, Alberto Sepulveda, Jorge Couceiro, Jose Maria Andrés and José Vicente Sáez completed the second ascent of the 1100-meter route Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower (6257m). The first three...
FALL ON ICE, SOLO CLIMBINGBritish Columbia, Canadian Rockies, Haffner CreekOn December 18, CC was solo ice climbing in Haffner Creek in Kootenay National Park when he fell and sustained injuries to his shoulder and collarbone. A nearby UIAGM Mount...
Twenty years ago H. Adams Carter answered his doorbell and ushered me into his home office, where he edited the American Alpine Journal. The files were stacked high, boxes brimmed over with note cards and correspondence, and his well-worn typewrit...
San Juan, Cordillera Blanca. On June 4 Thomas McCormack and Rodman L. Tidrick arrived in Lima nine days ahead of Nick Clinch and Virgil Day to buy all the food and part of the equipment to avoid shipping costs and Peruvian customs difficulties. Sh...
Fersmana Glacier, PikAnin, north face, Bloody Aurikelj and Waterfull; Pik Zastava, north face, FAT Couloir Direct; Fers III, southwest face (not to summit); Pik Plaza, west couloir and north ridge; Pik Neizvestniy, east summit, northeast ridge (se...
HERMAN HOERLIN1903-1983Dr. Hoerlin was one of the leading European climbers during the late 1920s and 1930s. With Erwin Schneider, he made many notable first winter ascents in the Alps, for example that of the Peuterey Ridge of Mount Blanc. In tho...
Nanga Parbat. Finally after 7 unsuccessful expeditions and 31 deaths, 14 of them sahibs and 17 porters, Nanga Parbat has been climbed. At seven o’clock in the evening of 3 July 1953 the 29-year-old Austrian, Hermann Buhl, member of the “German-Aus...