Shigri Glacier, Lahul. The all-woman Abinger expedition, under the leadership of Mrs. Joyce Dunsheath, and composed also of the Misses Delaney, Gregory, and Reid, spent the second half of May and June 1956 at the head of the Chandra valley on Shig...
Malitskovo Glacier; Pik 5,055m, Pik 4,975m, first ascents; Pik 4,995m, attempt. After a two-day drive from Bishkek into the Kokshaal region, Dave Swinburne and I were dropped off on July 20, having arranged to be collected at the same point on Aug...
Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park—On July 24, Mr. Louis W. Whittaker, age 26 (Mount Rainier professional guide), suffered severe lacerations of the right leg and minor lacerations of arms when he tripped (wearing crampons) on rock on the Gibra...
New Traverse from Hermit Hut. Miss G. Engelhard, Ern Feuz Leaving Hermit Hut at 5.30 a.m., August 27th, 1933 crossed Sifton glacier and traversed Mt. Grizzly (9,061 ft.; 3 hrs 30 m.) an intermediate peak, and Mt. Ursus Minor (9,026 ft.), descendi...
Kang Karpo Tragedy, 1991. Kang Karpo (6740 meters, 22,113 feet), as it is called by the local population, is known as Meili by the Chinese. The highest mountain in Yünnan, it has resisted strong Japanese and American attempts. In late 1990, a part...
New Hampshire, Mt. Washington—On February 28, Peter K. Luster (Leader, 21), Boyd N. Everett, Jr. (22) and James Wheeler (19), all members of the Harvard Mountaineering Club, were ice climbing in Damnation Gully in Huntington Ravine. Luster, who is...
JANET MAE JOHNSON1935-1973On or about February 1, 1973, Janet Johnson died of exhaustion and exposure near the summit of Aconcagua. She was with a party of four, of whom one other member, John Cooper of East Houston, Texas, also perished. Details ...
Baintha Brakk Attempt. Baintha Brakk (The Ogre) was attempted by Spanish Catalans Toni Casas, Joan Amils, Elias Coll and Jordi Sunyer. They had hoped to make the first ascent of the southeast face. They established Base Camp at 4400 meters on July...
Foraker. The southeast ridge of Foraker was done by my wife Shari and me. We were on the ridge from May 9 to 18 and summited on May 15. We followed the original route except at the bottom, where we climbed the left spur (an earlier variation) to a...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIES,OFF ROUTEAlberta, Chinaman’s PeakOn June 28, Allan J. (30) was leading pitch eight of the Northeast Face route (450m, 5.6) on Chinaman’s Peak about 1300. He tried to go straight up from the ...
Annapurna III Attempt and Tragedy. A Slovene expedition led by Boris Strmšek attempted a new route on the southwest face of Annapurna III (7555 meters, 24,787 feet). They placed Base Camp, Camps I, II and III at 4050, 5100, 5750 and 6600 meters. O...
Peak 8,920', East Face, First Ascent. Smith Curry and I landed on the Thunder Glacier with few plans and knowledge of the area. On the flight in, we scoped out the West Buttress of Hunter, but an active serac thwarted our desire to do the route. S...
Boulder Canyon, 1982. On the right side of Security Risk, Eric Eriksson and I climbed Comfortably Numb (120 feet, 5.12a), featuring 55 feet of overhanging face moves along a thin crack. The climb had previously been cleaned and one bolt placed on ...
FALL ON ROCK, FAULTY USE OF EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCE New York, ShawangunksOn June 21, a female climber (21) was being top roped on Squiggles when she fell. The problem was that rather than clipping a carabiner onto the knotted loop at the end of th...
Dieppe Mountain, Roosevelt-Churchill-Stalin Group, Muskwa Range. After our previous visit (A.A.J., 1986, page 184), we were so enchanted with the region of many unclimbed peaks that we returned in 1987. The problem is the approach with ferrying fo...
Arjuna South, Kijai Nala, Kishtwar Himalaya. Arjuna (6230 meters, 20,440 feet) was the objective of the Klub Wysokorgórski Gdansk - Sopot-Gdynia Expedition. The climbers were Waclaw Otreba, leader, Janusz Bartos, Czech Jakubczyk, Piotr Puzyrewski,...
Antisana Sur, Northwest Face, New Route. On February 14, 2001, Tim Connelly and I left our base camp below the moraines (4600m) at 3 a.m. for Antisana Sur. We crossed the bergschrund below the northwest face at 5:30 a.m. and took the right of the ...
Exodus, first ascent, Lefternliest Couloir; Ice Pyramid, attempt. On April 29 Rob Jones of R&R Guide Services flew Seth Holden, Steve Sinor, and me to the Big River Glacier, where a gorgeous unclimbed mountain marked as Peak 8,385' rose above ...
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. The D.M.C., with its unique history and long tradition of supporting rock climbing and mountaineering in the Dartmouth community in Hanover, NH, is one of the largest affiliate clubs within the Dartmouth Outing Club....
Langtang Ri. An expedition of three Japanese and three Nepalese was led by Ryohei Nishioku. They climbed the previously ascended southwest ridge of Langtang Ri, establishing three high camps. On October 9, Japanese Yasunori Tsuchiya, Nepalese Sude...