Lupgar Sar Tragedy. A six-man South Korean expedition to Lupgar Sar was led by Kim Ho-Young. They lost two of their members, Jung Su-Ken and Kim Young- Jae, who were swept away by an avalanche at Camp III on July 26.
P 12.380. Harrison Hilbert and I made our first try to climb P 12,380 by its west spur on June 8. We climbed simultaneously except for three belayed pitches on the lower spur. That afternoon we bivouacked in a storm in a crevasse at 11,000 feet wi...
Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak) Ascent and Tragedy. Japanese Kentaro Yamao and partner climbed Tharpu Chuli (5663 meters, 18,580 feet) on May 2, but on the descent, when they had reached 4700 meters, the former fell to his death.Tsunemichi Ikeda, Editor,...
The Grand Controversy. Orrin and Lorraine Bonney. The AAC Press, New York, 1992. 457 pages. $28.50.This book is a pleasant surprise. One might expect 457 pages of elaborately documented research into a minor historical issue to be dull, to say the...
In March Steven Fortune, Mike Rowe, and I arrived in the Solu Khumbu and established base camp at 5,050m, below our first objective, the northeast face of Kyajo Ri. Initially we attempted the standard route up the southwest ridge, starting from a ...
California, Tahquitz Rock—On May 30, a fatal accident occurred at Tahquitz Rock. There were two groups of moderately experienced climbers. Neither was affiliated with the Sierra Club. At the time of the accident one party of two was climbing on t...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, PLACED NO PROTECTIONColorado, Mt. YpsilonAccording to Tom Cunningham (23), Lawrence Berman (21) had gotten a technical climbing permit for the Blitzen Ridge on Mt. Ypsilon. They were to bivouac on the route on the n...
HANDHOLD CAME LOOSE, FALL ON ROCKColorado, Capitol PeakOn August 17, while approaching the summit of 14,130 foot Capitol Peak along the Knife Edge (the standard route), a 36-year old male mountaineer from Denver fell an estimated 1,000 feet down t...
No fatalities post monsoon. In the autumn of 1967, when only two expeditions attempted Nepalese Himalayan peaks over 6,600m, there were no climbers’ deaths. Every autumn since then there have been deaths—until 2007, when none of the 183 teams suff...
Burgundy Spire, Action Potential with variants, and Ultramega OK. On July 19, after an evening bacchanal at the Winthrop Pub, Mike Layton’s and my approach time to the base of Burgundy had doubled to six hours. At the spire we beheld the impressiv...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONNew York, ShawangunksA male climber (19) was belaying his second. The second fell, pulling the belayer off a ledge. The belayer was not clipped in properly. (Source: Brad Snyder)
Bonanza Peak, Northwest Ridge. Tim Haider and I climbed Washington’s highest non-volcanic peak (9,511') via a new route (V 5.8), following a traverse from the northwest. On August 19 we left the Agnes Creek trail at Swamp Creek and climbed Needle ...
The 2005 Banff Mountain Book Festival competition received more than 150 entries from eight countries. Although this was narrowed down to 39 finalists, it was one of the most impressive years in the 12-year history of the festival for quality writ...
Uranium Peak, No Country for Bold Men. In late June Greg Child and I drove into Red Canyon in southeast Utah hoping to finish a route we’d abandoned two weeks earlier. The canyon baked in the early summer heat and buzzed with ferocious gnats. The ...
Southwest British Columbia (southern Coast Mountains and Canadian Cascades) summary. Although it was a great year for new routes in the Coast Mountains as a whole, 2004 was not particularly newsworthy in the southwest BC region, probably because t...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, LOOSE ROCKWyoming, TetonsOn August 7, 1982, at 1400, Donald Decker (56) and Paul Beard (19) attempted to climb the west face of the saddle between the South and Middle Tetons. Decker was a very experienced Teton cli...
Ganesh II Tragedy. A nine-man Polish expedition led by Janusz Majer attempted the dangerous southwest face of Ganesh II. After a nine-day approach, on October 7 they got to Base Camp at 14,100 feet. Because of objective dangers, they decided to cl...
East Kahiltna Peak’s Southeast FaceTerry Kennedy, Dirty Socks ClubON MAY 19, PAT CALLIS AND I established Base Camp at 9400 feet on the east fork of the Kahiltna Glacier below the southeast face of East Kahiltna Peak (4096 meters, 13,440 feet). Th...
Kumbhakarna (Jannu) Attempt. Beverly Boynton*, Randal Harrington, Evan Kaplan, Chuck Schaap, James Springer, Callum MacKay (our only Briton) and I as leader left Kathmandu on March 23, hoping to climb the French route on the south ridge of Kumbhak...
Milne Land, circumnavigation; Hergenlitop, Sleeping Giant.During August Dan Jones, Ben Lawes, and I circumnavigated Milne Land and explored this part of Scoresby Sund, the largest fjord system in the world. At N 71° the fjord is covered with ice f...