California, Yosemite National Park (1) Lost Arrow—On March 19, weather was excellent. Gerald Dixon (24) and Irving Smith (17) hiked to the Valley rim starting at 5:00 a.m. They were accompanied by Merle Alley (who had made the climb previously) wh...

Alpamayo and attempt on Chopicalqui. John Ricker, leader, and Lisle Irwin, both Canadians, Bruce Jenkinson, Gerald Holdsworth, and Nick von Tunzelmann, New Zealanders, and David Drake, English, traveled by bus on the newly opened road to Pomabamba...

Alaska Alpine Club. The chief accomplishment of the club’s 1962 activities was the April ascent by a six-man party of Mount McKinley via Karsten’s Ridge. The group included Keith Jones, leader, Paul Dix, Howie Kantner, Garry Kenwood, Jim Mack, and...

Nightmare Rock, Traumatic Experience Route. This direct ascent of Nightmare Rock, close to the Squamish highway, was completed in late November by Leif Patterson, Eric Bjornstad and me. There was an interesting piton start up an overhang and then ...

Tukuche Peak. The Nagai Alpine Club of Japan Expedition to Tukuche Peak was led by Teruo Kurosawa and had Kensaku Takeda as climbing leader. They attempted in the post-monsoon season an all new route up the southeast ridge from the Kali Kandaki va...

Lamaire Channel, Various Ascents. Greg Landreth and Keri Pashuk, with their boat Northanger, were active again in the Antarctic Peninsula, making ascents of a number of peaks with their climbing guests Rich Prohaska and Jia Condon. In late January...

Soviet-American Exchange on Mount McKinley. In the spring of 1986 the Soviet-American Climbing Exchange resumed. Five of the ten members of the Soviet team had been members of the Soviet-American expedition which climbed Pik Pobedy in 1985. (See A...

British Columbia, Selkirks, Mt. Sir Donald. On 29 July Douglas Barre and Michael Swayne had completed an ascent of Sir Donald and were descending via the usual route to the Vaux glacier. A falling rock struck Barre in the head and he was killed.So...

Pucahirca Central, Cordillera Blanca. The Torino section of the Club Alpino Italiano sent an expedition to Pucahirca, which had defeated the efforts of another Italian group from Bergamo in 1960. The party was led by Giuseppe Dionisi and was compo...

Manaslu Attempt. Unfortunately we were unable to climb Manaslu by the normal northeast-face route. We had originally hoped to make the ascent on skis, but the conditions were so bad that only Karl Hub took his skis to 22,300 feet. The members of t...

“White Elephant”, Southwest Face, Joshua Tree National Monument. With some probing we found a long face, almost four pitches, in a large formation east of the main campground, which we dubbed the “White Elephant”. The ascent was made on February 7...

Manaslu North II. A Czechoslovakian expedition led by Vladimir Krupicka climbed Manaslu North II by its north ridge. They reported that there are two north peaks and that they climbed the second one of 7157 meters or 23,480 feet. Base Camp at 13,8...

Rocher du Midi, Massif de la Chartreuse, France. From June 8 to 10, Gary Hemming, with the Scot Stewart Fulton, made a new route of extreme difficulty to the right of the French route on the east face of the Rocher du Midi.

Tilicho. A 14-person expedition sponsored by the German Alpine Club’s Mountain and Ski School was led by Günther Härter. They approached in 14 days from Dumre up the Marsyandi valley to Base Camp on the west shore of Tilicho Lake at 16,050 feet, r...

Baldwin Glacier: Peaks 10,460', 9,450', 10,142', 9,100'. On June 14 Marcus Collins, Phil Fortier, Greg Mueller, and I flew in to the upper Baldwin Glacier with Ultima Thule Outfitters pilot Paul Claus. With our base camp located at 8,000 feet, we ...

Tazlina Glacier Climbs, Chugach. Dr. Russell Batt, Gary James, Charles Marchand and I as leader climbed four peaks on the divide between the Columbia and Tazlina Glaciers. On June 22 we ascended Tazlina Tower (8325 feet) by its west face and south...

British Columbia Mountaineering Club. With the club’s having finally completed the Guidebook to the Coastal Ranges of British Columbia, members went a long way toward making it obsolete by putting up a variety of new routes and ascending some 40 n...

Yerupajá, Sarapo and other Peaks; Siula Grande West Face Attempt, Cordillera Huayhuash. Piet-Jan Bindt, Ger Friele, Egbert Veen and I set up Base Camp near Jahuacocha on July 1. After acclimatization climbs on Cerro México and Rasac’s east face, f...

Jumo Ganker, Attempt. It was reported that Huw Davies and John Town (U.K.) attempted Jomo Ganker (7048m) in the Western Nyanchen Tangla Range in Central Tibet in late July and August. They were hoping to make the first western ascent of the mounta...

Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre and Aguja Guillaumet. Several ascents in late 1985 and early 1986 were not reported in A.A.J., 1986. Frenchman Yves Astier soloed the American route on Fitz Roy in 12 hours on December 29, 1985. With J. M. Boucansaud he climb...