P 13,355, South Face, Mount Whitney Area. Attracted to this large wall so close to the Whitney region, yet still unclimbed, Bill St. Jean, Alan Bartlett and I found ourselves on this face last June. Our route follows a line left of center, beginni...
Mount Whitney, Northeast Ridge. After more than a dozen ascents of this mountain by what I assumed to be all different sides, I was most surprised when Claude Fiddler pointed out an unclimbed ridge on the highest peak in the 48 contiguous states. ...
Araral and Other Peaks. The purpose of the Argentinian-Italian 1978 Expedition to southern Bolivia was to locate signs of ancient Indian occupancy on high summits. Its program could not be fully carried out because of transportation problems. On A...
The Jallawaya/Nigruni-Mountains, Various Ascents. The Jallawaya/Nigruni-Mountains, part of the Cordillera Real, have a lot of small glaciers. The highest peak is Jallawaya (5660m). A small rough road accesses the range, but if there is a lot of ra...
Petit Grepon, South Face. The Petit Grepon is a startlingly slender blade of rock located near Sharkstooth in Rocky Mountain National Park. Though it rises little more than 100 feet above the notch which separates it from the mountain mass behind,...
Kangchungtse (Makalu II) Attempt. A Spanish Basque expedition was led by Carlos Ochoa and composed of Iñigo Barandiaran, Imanol Ollaguindía, Juan Oyárzabal and Atxo Apellaniz. They attempted the south ridge of Kangchungtse (7640 meters, 25,066 fee...
Pronghorn, East Face. This impressive face, near Middle Fork Lake, continues to be elusive. The classic route appears to be near midface, close to vertical for a full 1,100 feet; some of the cracks appear to have loose flakes, others are seamed. L...
Nevado Santa Cruz, South Face and Other Climbs, 1984 and 1985. Marco Suarez and I climbed on August 4, 1984 the south face of Santa Cruz (6241 meters, 20,476 feet). We followed the left side of the wall until we reached the southwest ridge at arou...
Momhil Sar Attempt. The members of our expedition were José Espona, Raúl Ferrara, Guillermo Fernández and I. We hoped to ascend the unclimbed west buttress of Momhil Sar (7343 meters, 24,092 feet). We traveled up the Gharesa Glacier and turned nor...
Cerro Azul, Maule Region, Winter Ascent. Cerro Azul (3800 meters, 12,467 feet) was ascended in winter and descended on skis for the first time on August 2 by José Loyola, Ricardo Bustos, Patricio Peñaloza, Alejandro Avedaño, Juan Cárdenas and Germ...
New Hampshire: Mount Washington. On 1 May 1949 Dr. Paul Schiller, a Harvard research associate and Hungarian scientist, plunged into a water-filled bergschrund on the top of the headwall of Tuckerman’s Ravine. A crew of eight found the lifeless fo...
Lobuje West. Yuji Kamakura, Yoshihiro Taguchi, Mrs. Akiko Kanazawa, Miss Keiko Nishihira, Dr. Ken Kanazawa and I settled Base Camp on September 16 on the Lobuje Glacier at 5000 meters. Within a week we made a route in the labyrinth of a huge icefa...
La Esfinge, Welcome to the Slabs of Koricancha. On June 18, Slovaks Dusan Beranek, Rado Staruch, and I reached the top of La Esfinge (5,325m), having climbed a new route, Welcome to the Slabs of Koricancha (650m, 13 pitches, V 5.13b), via the larg...
Annapurna IV. A 24-person Nepalese Police expedition led by Mrs. Basundhara Lama climbed Annapurna IV by its normal route, the northwest ridge. The climbing leader was Inspector Gupta Bahadur Rana. Much of the route- making had been done by the mu...
East Ridge of West Horn, June 24, 1953. Fred Ayres and A. E. Creswell made this first ascent. Ayres also made the first and second ascents of this peak by the west ridge. This fine new route was a third ascent.
Kumbhakarna East, East Face Attempts. Vanja Furlan and I again attempted to climb the east face of Kumbhakarna East (7468 meters, 24,502 feet), which we had tried in 1991. (AAJ, 1992, page 4.) After an approach march of ten days, we got to Base Ca...
Saser Kangri. Saser Kangri, 25,170 feet, lies on the eastern end of the Karakoram, north of Leh. This was unsuccessfully attempted by an expedition early in the summer of 1956. The group from the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute was under the le...
H. G. Watkins, the young explorer, whose excellent work in Labrador and Greenland has been an inspiration to others in the scientific and geographic exploration of these regions met a tragic death by drowning on the east coast of Greenland while o...
Gonga Shan Attempt. An Italian expedition led by Evanio Marchesani failed to climb Gonga Shan. Details are lacking.
Lupgar Sar Tragedy. A six-man South Korean expedition to Lupgar Sar was led by Kim Ho-Young. They lost two of their members, Jung Su-Ken and Kim Young- Jae, who were swept away by an avalanche at Camp III on July 26.