Book Reviews AAJ
Buch der Talschaft Lauterbrunnen

Buch der Talschaft Lauterbrunnen, by Hans Michel. 503 pages, including bibliography, 64 photographic illustrations and six color plates from old prints. Interlaken: Verlag Otto Schlaefli. Price, 50 Swiss francs.An interesting recent development in...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Cololo, West Ridge, Cordillera Apolobamba

Cololo, West Ridge, Cordillera Apolobamba. We approached the Cordillera Apolobamba by jeep via Nubi Pampa. From Base Camp at 15,000 feet, David Hick and I made a new route, the west ridge, on Cololo (Ccachuca; 5916 meters, 18,734 feet) on August 9...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Exceeding Abilities, California, Tuolemne Meadows, Lembert Dome, Northwest Books

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Tuolumne Meadows, Lembert Dome, Northwest BooksOn July 15, Amit Singh (27) fell while climbing the third pitch (rated 5.9) of Northwest Books on Lembert Dome. He had placed a cam ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, Northern Monashees

Northern Monashees. Looking for solitude, virgin peaks and genuine wilderness, we decided to fly into the Pancake Peak area during the first week of August. The economics of helicopter transportation dictated a large group. Members of our conventi...


Accident Reports ANAM
Colorado, Colorado National Monument

Colorado: Colorado National Monument. On 29 May 1949 Otto Schied, a German exchange student and high school senior, plunged 300 feet to his death. A companion, Kenneth Hesler, grabbed at Schied’s tumbling body and fell 30 feet himself, but escaped...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Foraker, Talkeetna Ridge; Hunter South Peak, Southwest Ridge

Foraker, Talkeetna Ridge; Hunter South Peak, Southwest Ridge. Jim Graham and I made an acclimatization climb of the southwest ridge of Mount Hunter in late April. This was helpful in that we were conditioned to heavy packs, ice climbing and cold t...


Accident Reports ANAM
California, Mt. Whitney area

California, Mt. Whitney area. On 1 September David Slaton (17), Richard Bisson, David Smith and two adults, Jack Richer and Larry Stidam started up from Whitney Portals. Soon thereafter, Slaton showed signs of being affected by the altitude. Riche...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Koyo Zom, Hindu Raj, Second Ascent

Koyo Zom, Hindu Raj, Second Ascent. The Tokyo Alpinist Club sent Shigeatsu Ogasawara, leader, Haruyoshi Yanagishita, Kenichi Takemori and Yasuo Sato to Kayo Zom, first climbed by Albert Stamm’s Austrian party in 1968. (See A.A.J., 1969, 16:2, pp. ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Lobuje East

Lobuje East. We reached our high camp of 17,000 feet on April 19. On the 20th I soloed P 5551 (18,212 feet), which lies a mile south of Lobuje East, for a better look at our chosen southeast-face route on Lobuje East. Bad weather forced us to rema...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Nevado Alpamayo, Tragedies

Nevado Alpamayo, tragedies. Alpamayo (5,947m), once selected as the world’s most beautiful mountain, sees many ascents, but, in the last years, also many accidents. On July 21, 2003 an avalanche swept away a group 150m short of the summit ridge. E...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Gangapurna and Annapurna III Attempts

Gangapurna and Annapurna III Attempts. A six-man Korean team led by Kim Jung hoped to ascend Gangapuma’s north face, traverse Annapurna Ill’s northeast ridge and descend Annapurna III’s north ridge. Neither summit was reached and no traverse was m...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Hindu Kush, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Noshaq

Noshaq. Driving a Volkswagen bug and microbus, four Norwegians, Eric Boehlke, Odd Eliassen, Per Gran, Owe Skjerven, and I left Oslo on June 25 and on July 12 arrived in Kabul. After the official formalities, on July 17 we all flew from Kabul to Fa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, U.S., Wyoming, Tetons, South Face of Symmetry Spire, July 3, 1950

South Face of Symmetry Spire, July 3, 1950. Dick Pownall and Leigh Ortenburger completed this new route which lies between the Durrance ridge and the Southwest ridge and is of similar difficulty.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Tangmonja, Attempt, and Machag, First Ascent Asia, Tibet

It was reported that Britons Derek Buckle, Gary Hill, Alyson Starling, John Town, John Whitely and Rik Wojtaszewski travelled to the Jomo Chu region of the western Nyangchen Tangla (Nyain-Qen-Tanglha) in July-August. From a base camp beneath the e...

| Published 1999


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Kashmir and Jammu, Nun and Kun

Nun and Kun. Many ascents of these two high mountains are attempted each year. An Indian expedition was successful on Nun. The 19-man team of the Indo-Tibetan Border Police and the Indian Air Force was led by S.S. Puri. Base Camp, Advance Base and...


Club Activities AAJ
Harvard Mountaineering Club

Harvard Mountaineering Club. Members were active in many areas again this year. As usual, difficult rock climbing was done in the Te- tons, Yosemite, and at Tahquitz Rock. Steve Arsenault was outstanding in this respect, doing several classic grad...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Lhotse South Face Attempt

Lhotse South Face Attempt. Christophe Profit and I failed to climb the south face of Lhotse due to high winds. On our first attempt from October 6 to 10, we escaped from the great couloir on the left but at the bottom of the central dihedral we di...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chilean and Argentine Patagonia, Cordillera Castillo and Northern Patagonian Icecap

Cordillera Castillo and Northern Patagonian Icecap. We five New Zealanders climbed in Chilean Patagonia: Dave Bamford, Paul Milsom, Geoff Spearpoint, Ian Thorn and I. We were in the Cordillera Castillo to the north of Lago General Carrera in Decem...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kumbhakarna

Kumbhakarna. A team of six Canadians led by Ken Legg climbed the south ridge of Kumbhakarna (Jannu; 7710 meters, 25,294 feet), making the 20th ascent of the peak. Robert Driscoll and Michael White reached the summit on April 15.Elizabeth Hawley


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Wisconsin, Devil's Lake State Park

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTWisconsin, Devil's Lake State ParkIn late May, a rock climber was rescued after falling about 40 feet. The 20-year-old man was taken by helicopter to University Hospital in Madison after he was stabilized by firs...