Mount McKinley, Northwest Face, First Born. Steve House and Eli Helmuth climbed a new route on the Northwest Face (Father and Son’s Wall) of McKinley. An account of their ascent appears earlier in this journal.
Climbing The World’s 14 Highest Mountains: A History of the 8000-Meter Peaks. Richard Sale, with photo editing by John Cleare. Seattle: Mountaineers Books, 2000. 192 pages. $29.95.This is the first large-format illustrated guidebook to describe th...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, FAILURE TO TURN BACK, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Mount MeekerOn Saturday, January 29, Eric, Ward, Ned, Arnold and I were planning on attempting Mount Meeker (13,911 feet) via the...
Gasherbrum II Attempt. Ours was the first American commercial expedition to an 8000-meter peak. We were Galen Rowell, deputy leader, Bob Sloezen, guide, Dr. Peter Cummings, Lester Thurow, Scott Moore, my wife Aleja, Base Camp manager, and I, leade...
Dunagiri Attempt and. Hanuman. The goal of our Austrian Alpine Club (ÖAK) expedition was the second ascent of 23,184-foot Dunagiri. We were originally Fräulein Hermine Müller, German, Frau Ruth Steinmann-Hess, Swiss, Dr. Erich Bosina and I, Austri...
Overview, history, and naming. The Miyar, north of the Chenab River at Udaipur, has evolved into one of the most popular Himalayan destinations for alpine rock climbers. Serious exploration first started here 40 years ago, and three main high peak...
Washington, Wenatchee National Forest—East Fork of Boulder Creek above Timber Line—On September 5, 1955 Clayton Ogle (35), a Forest Service trail crew cook, slipped on a 50 by 100 yard snow field below a rock cliff while traveling alone above Timb...
Broad Peak Central Attempt from the North. Our expedition was composed of four Catalan Spaniards, Oscar Cadiach, Lluis Rafols, Joan Gelabert and me, Austrian Kurt Diemberger, Italian Alberto Soncini and Sherpas Sakipa, Pemba and Pasang. The proble...
Mount Lefroy, First Winter Ascent. After snowshoeing across Lake Louise, the climb to Abbott Pass was hard trail-breaking. A cold, windy day kept us stormbound among the blankets of Abbott Hut. On March 24 Jim Madsen, Ron Burgener and I climbed Le...
Gasherbrum II. An American expedition was jointly guided by Roger Gocking and Thor Kieser. In unstable weather, the top was reached by 12 of the 20 members. These were Gocking, Kieser and Clay Landon on July 21; Charles Mace, Robert Broshears and ...
Re-opening of the Nathu La to trade. During the summer China and India re-opened a historic trade route that had been closed for almost half a century. The Nathu La, at over 4,000m on the border of Sikkim and Tibet, was part of an old Silk Route. ...
Fitz Roy, Northwest Buttress. Italians Andrea Sarchi, Lorenzo Nadali and Mauro Girardi ascended the northwest buttress of Fitz Roy over four days in January. Their route, Ensueño, began in the Super Couloir before moving onto the buttress, where t...
Tibetan (and Xinjiang) mountains, various ascents. The following climbs, primarily in Tibet, were made during 2007 and 2008. All are first known ascents. Kangzhagri, Kukushili, Pulha Ri, Purog Kangri, Sirenshou, and Toze Kangri Northeast have a pr...
Thunder Mountain (Peak 10,920'), South Face, Peak 11,200', South Face, and The Moose’s Tooth, Southwest Face, Attempt. Jim Hall, Paul Ramsden and I flew into our base camp on the Tokositna Glacier below the south face of Thunder Mountain on May 5....
AAC, North Central Section. The North Central Section continues to progress toward more communication, camaraderie, and interaction with the Club. Major projects for 2002 included further work on the Section Web site, clean-up days at two areas, a...
Mt. Foraker, South Face. New Englanders Steve Larson and Joe TerraVecchia established a new route, the South Face (Alaska Grade 6, 9,400'), on Mount Foraker (17,400') from June 4-20. The route ascended the 3,500-foot diamond-shaped wall between th...
Mt. Aspiring region summary. In terms of new route activity it has been a relatively quiet year for the Aspiring region. However, the fact that new route potential still exists was clearly illustrated when on the same day this summer two parties c...
Saffron Peak, 10,018 ft. First ascent, July 27. E. Cromwell, J. M. Thorington, P. Kaufmann. From camp at the head of Dutch Creek by way of low, timbered saddle on south side of subsidiary east peak. The south arête of the main peak is attained and...
Castle Rock, Dreadful Direct Route. This new route completed on September 14 by Pat Callis and me begins on Loggers Ledge between the Angel Crack and Damnation Chimney. From there it continues in a straight line to the top, starting off with 150 f...
Glacier de France Region, Schweizerland, East Greenland. Our expedition was flown by helicopter from Angmagssalik to Base Camp at the junction of the Pourquoi Pas Glacier and the Glacier de France at 66°38'N, 36°30'W. We divided into three groups....