Argentine Patagonia, Various Ascents. I visited Chalten from November 18 to January 25, spending a total of 68 days, ten of which were good weather. Many of the ten good weather days, however, lasted for only ten or 12 hours at a time. Antoine Noi...
Oregon, Mt. Jefferson. On 27 August Don Griffin, Rich Iverson and Herb Curl left their camp at the base of the Jefferson Park Glacier terminal moraine at 3:00 a.m. They reached the base of the gravel covered steep ice on the east side of the Jeffe...
STRANDED, ILLNESS, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, WEATHER British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount RobsonOn August 26, 1986, a party of four climbers camped at Berg Lake, on their way to Mount Robson (3954 meters, the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies). ...
Zuni Needle, Gallup Area. Mike Baker and I made the first ascent of this beautiful 250-foot tower on April 7 and 8. Mike led a long pitch with a short section of 5.10. A second short lead (5.8) put us on a ledge two-thirds of the way up the tower....
Saipal Traverse. After having pitched their second high camp on October 5, but not sleeping there, the Spanish expedition, led by Joaquim Prunés, waited at Base Camp for the next eleven days for constant heavy snowfall to cease. On October 18, cli...
Mount Brooks, North Ridge, Alaska Range. While Toby Wheeler and I were waiting on the Muldrow Glacier for the other members of our McKinley group, we were attracted by the beautifully contoured north ridge of Mount Brooks* silhouetted against the ...
Blackburn, West Summit. In June, 1991, Peter Green and I tried to climb Blackburn via the west ridge, from the second arm of the Kuskalana Glacier. Crevasses and avalanches turned us back at 8000 feet. On June 7, 1993, Green, John Arnason, Dave Wh...
White Princess, Alaska Range, (Mount Hayes B-3 Quadrangle). The first week in April, twenty hardy souls braved below zero temperatures and high winds on the Castner Glacier, to spend four days of spring climbing. Most of the way the snow was wind ...
Chugach Mountains. During June and July 1957 most of the high peaks at the head of the great Columbia Glacier in the central Chugach Mountains were climbed for the first time. Before our 1955 and 1957 expeditions to this area, it was probably the ...
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. The year’s activities began with a winter meeting at the home of Gus and Emily Benner in Berkeley. More than 100 members and guests enjoyed light refreshments and a slide presentation by Galen Rowell and Kim Schmitz ...
Baruntse. A Swiss expedition of nine made the 21 st ascent of Baruntse (7129 meters, 23,389 feet) when Michel Siegenthaler reached the top by the southeast ridge on October 23. The party was led by Jacques Grandjean.Elizabeth Hawley
Ptarmigan Towers, East Side. Tower 2: To the right of the bottom of the 2-4 gully is a deep, wet chimney/gully. On the vertical wall to its right is a prominent and attractive jam-crack, which diagonals up and left for about 300 feet before joinin...
Rensselaer Mountaineering Club. Although the R. M. C. is still small, climbing enthusiasm has kept the membership list increasing. Probably the most significant achievement in the Club this year has been the publication of the first issue of Renss...
Appalachian Mountain Club. This year the Club organized a climbing and camping outing at the Gannett Peak Camp in Din- woody Canyon. It attracted a group of 32 climbers of all grades ofclimbing ability. Ascents were made of 8 mountains. Fourteen o...
Torre Central del Paine, East Face. Spanish Basques Mikel Zabalza, Manolo Blásquez, Ritxi López and José Luis Moreno made the second ascent of the very difficult route on the east face of the Torre Central del Paine. This route was climbed in 1986...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED, NO HARD HATWashington, Snoqualmie Pass, The ToothOn August 11, Creth Edward Cupp (31) and Joanne Metzler were climbing the last pitch of the Southwest Face of the Tooth, 5.6, when leader Cupp fell 25 meters pulling...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION and TOO MUCH TIME TO PLACE PROTECTIONColorado, Lovers LeapOn September 6, Greg (40s), Mike (30s) and I, Matt (50), were planning to do Lover’s Leap (5.7), switching leads and having the two following climbers si...
Chimtarga, west face. From August 4-7 the four-man team of Gladysheve, Igolkin, Kondrash- ov, and Soldatov (leader) climbed a new route up the center of the west face of Chimtarga (5,489m), the highest peak in the Fanskie mountains, a beautiful al...
Mischief In Patagonia, by H. W. Tilman. Cambridge University Press, 1957. 185 pages; 16 pages of photographs; 2 maps. Price $3.75.In Mischief In Patagonia, Mr. Tilman has sandwiched his account of crossing the Patagonian Ice Cap, in December 1955 ...
McGinnis Peak, Northeast Ridge, Alaska Range. After crossing the Delta River by kayak on June 14, James Brady and I made our approach via the south branch of the McGinnis Glacier. Working right through the icefall at the cirque entrance, we asce...