Annapurna III Attempt and Tragedy. An Italian expedition led by Maurizio Maggi was called off immediately after the death of Massimo Caslino, who was struck by a falling sérac on September 26. He fell about 350 meters and his body was found the ne...
Noshaq. Our American Hindu Kush Expedition arrived at Base Camp at the foot of the west ridge of Noshaq on August 3. Kharposht-e-Yakhi (18,688 feet) was climbed on August 7 by D. and A. George, Arlene Blum, Joel Bown, S. Darling, and Leslie (Toby)...
Black Dike of Mt. Moran, August 20, 1949. This unique route, followed by Dick Pownall and Dave Van de Water, goes up the face of the diabase dike so prominent from Jackson Hole. In the upper sections both loose rock and difficult climbing were enc...
Peak 6250, Ascent, and Namlo Karpo, Attempt. New Zealanders Peter Cammell, John Cocks, Cam Falkner, Martin Hunter, John Nankervis and Adrian van Schie spent five weeks in the Kongpo region of eastern Tibet in the autumn. Accompanied by Tibetan mou...
Nun Attempt and Tragedy. Our expedition had as members Jed Meyer, William Ogbum, Mike Seavers and me as leader. Our original aim was to climb the difficult east ridge of Nun from Base Camp on the Shaffat Glacier and then to traverse the mountain b...
Iowa Mountaineers. During the past year many of our 400 members climbed in numerous mountain ranges of the world. The weekend climbing outings continued as in the past with 15 to 40 members on the rocks almost every Saturday and Sunday. Fourteen c...
Nuptse Northwest, 1989. [On page 228 of AAJ 1990, we made brief mention of this excellent climb. We now have the report.—Editor.] Our expedition consisted of Andreas Dick, Thomas Simon, Thomas Stöger, Hajo Netzer and I as leader. We set up Base Ca...
Don Bosco, Southern Patagonian Icecap. Noel Cox, Steve McAndrews, Randy Udall and I spent six weeks from early March to mid-April in the Cordillera Darwin and along the Upsala Glacier. The usual murderous climate gave us only 2½ days of good weath...
Kumbhakarna Attempt. Four Swiss led by Hans Rauner attempted to climb Kumbhakarna (Jannu) by the south ridge. They reached 6500 meters on October 25.Elizabeth Hawley
STRANDED - UNABLE TO FREE RAPPEL ROPE, WEATHER, HYPOTHERMIAWyoming, Devil's TowerOn the evening of May 23 rd, the park received a call from two stranded climbers (ages unknown) who were on the southwest face of the tower, asking for help. Aaron Tu...
Fifth Ascent of Trisul, Garhwal, and ascents in Lahul. The Bavarian brothers, Adolf and Fritz Hieber, and the Bombay lawyer, Keki Bunshah, with Sherpa Gyalzen Minchung ( H. C. No. 163) and his brother Wangdi, were active in the mountains just sout...
Nalivkin Glacier, Malitskovo Glacier; Pik 4,828m (Sigma Peak), first ascent; Piks 5,055m (Hidden Peak), 4,975m (Snow Dome), new routes; other ascents. We chose the western Kokshaal Too region for its potential for first ascents. Also called “The F...
Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park—On July 30, a party of 15 Tacoma Mountaineers under the leadership of Stan Engle were camped at Steamboat Prow in preparation for a scheduled experience climb ofMount Rainier via the Emmons Route, the followin...
Mt Wheeler (11,023 ft.). Third ascent; first from Glacier Circle hut. Miss G. Engelhard. Ern. Feuz. Leaving Glacier Cirde hut at 5.00 a.m., September 13th, 1933, the lower tongue of Deville glacier was followed to foot of icefall, thence taking to...
Gongga Shan Attempt. A four-man expedition to Gongga Shan was led by Akio Kanagoe. He had been the leader of the tragic 1981 northeast-ridge expedition which had lost eight of its members. This time the Japanese attempted the northwest ridge, by w...
New Hampshire, Cannon Mt.—On June 8, S. M. Ornstein (27), Robert Jahn (27), John F. Noxon (28), and John S. Humphreys (24) climbed theWhitney-Gilman route (class 5) on the face of Cannon Mt. All were experienced climbers, the weather was good, and...
STEVEN ANTHONY McANDREWS1950-1973(Steven McAndrews was applying for membership in the American Alpine Club, but he was tragically killed on Fitz Roy in Patagonia before he could be taken in. The following is an excerpt from what was written by a c...
Yazghil Dome South Attempt and Tragedy. The members of our expedition were Takeshi Hamamoto, Hiroshi Komura, Fumitake Nakamura, Kazuhiko Yagisawa and I as leader. We started our trek from Huro, beyond Nagar, on July 29 and took five days to reach ...
Foraker, Ski Descent. On May 29 to 31 Pierre Beghin, James Merel, Jean-Luc Ruby and I climbed Mount Foraker by the southeast ridge and descended by the same route on skis.Rémy Poccard, Club Alpin Français
FALL ON ROCK, NO HELMET, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INEXPERIENCE Alberta, Kananaskis Valley, Barrier BluffsLate in the afternoon of July 6, Justin W. (21) was top-roping The Wasp, a 5.9 route, on the Yellow Wall when he took a ten...