El Gran Trono Blanco, The Millennium. May brought the completion of the first new major route on El Gran Trono Blanco in a decade (see AAJ 1991, pp. 189-190). Several years in the planning and “construction,” The Millennium (El Milenio, IV 5.11b o...

Makalu. Japanese climbed Makalu from the north with four high camps. The route was more direct to the northwest ridge than the standard route. On September 30 leader Kazuo Yuda, Makoto Ishibashi and Dr. Yukihiro Michi- kawa climbed to the summit w...

In February Joe French, Zach Lee, and Caleb Padgett found, equipped, and freed a fantastic crack system on the south face of Kinesava. The route is the farthest left of the established routes (left of Arrakis), and a few bolts in a slightly over...

Buni Zom, North Peak. An Austrian expedition from Graz consisted of Dr. Gerald Gruber, leader, and his wife Hildegund, Dr. Herfried Gamerith and his wife Gertraud, Hanns Schell and Dr. Norbert Zernig. On August 10 G. Gruber, H. Gamerith and Schell...

Mount Nystrom, East Peak, South Face and Southeast Buttress. In September 1981 Tenny Canon, Gleed Toombs and I made a new climb in the impressive Nystrom cirque, near Sweetwater Gap. We climbed the south face, a fine route on cracks and steep slab...

Jogin Group. The first and second ascents of Jogin I (21,210 feet) were made on June 22 in two parties by eleven trainees and staff of the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering, Uttarkashi, under the leadership of Lieutenant Colonel J. C. Joshi. They ...

Appalachian Mountains: (1) Mt. Katahdin. On 4 July 1948 Albertine Parker (about 25), a member of a large party, fell while she was trying to pass the first (lowest) chockstone in the Chimney route on Mt. Katahdin. She sustained a badly fractured l...

Wind River Range. A number of first ascents were made in this range by several parties during the past summer.Washakie Peak was climbed, apparently for the first time, on July 18th by Dr. W. Atwood, W. Atwood, Jr., Mr. and Mrs. B. B. Gilman, direc...

Notable Ascents in the Cordillera Blanca. A number of excellent ascents were made in 1986 in the Cordillera Blanca. The Italian pair Paola Gigliotti and Massimo Marchini climbed San Juan from the Quebrada Cayesh on June 1 and Milpocraju via a vari...

Pingora, South Face Direct, Cirque of the Towers. On August 7 Rich Mathies and I began on the grassy ledges running across the south face below the rope-up point of the standard route. (We could have started at the bottom of the wall as the crack ...

Yutmaru Sar. This peak lies west of Kanjut Sar north of the Hispar Glacier. Our party consisted of Yu Watanabe, Shoji Ebara, Masahiro Motegi, Dr. Ryoko Kato and me as leader. Having approached from Nagar, we established Base Camp on the Yutmaru Gl...

The Story of Mountains, by Ferdinand C. Lane. 488 pages, with tables and index; 32 full-page illustrations from photographs and a panoramic end-paper. Garden City, N. Y.: Doubleday and Co., 1950. Price, $6.50.This is one of a series of books on gl...

Licancabur and Llullaillaco. On December 31, 1987, Americans Chuck Huss, Bill Koener, Gordie Vernon and I and Chileans Gastón Oyarzún and Peter Schlotterbeck climbed Licancabur (5921 meters, 19,424 feet) by the east ridge, a long trudge on loose s...

FALL ON ROCK—INADEQUATE PROTECTION (CLIMBER AND BELAYER), NO HARD HATCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Church Bowl, Bishops TerraceAfter work on July 28, Ric Sedlak (20) and I, Amy Painter (21), headed for the Church Bowl to climb Bishops Terrace (one ...

Roscoe Bjerg, Scoresby Land. A flight to the Staunings Alps takes one over the Liverpool Coast, a forbidding angular coastal belt of mountains that runs northwards from Scoresby Sund (70° 30' N) for about 60 miles. Because the peaks are low (maxim...

Colorado: Snowmass Peak (14,077 ft.). On 26 August 1949 Arthur Gallager (21), a Yale student from Colorado Springs, slid to his death in a rock slide. Eye-witnesses said that he slipped from a ledge while he was descending from a summit of the pea...

Foraker, Pink Panther Route. Dave Harries and Chris Smith repeated the difficult Pink Panther route on Mount Foraker during the spring.Scott Gill

California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. McAdie. On 15 June Anita Ossofsky (27), Seymour Ossofsky, and Barbara Lilley were ascending Mt. McAdie from Arc Pass. They traversed from the East face of Middle Peak to Gulley which divides Middle and North Peaks. A...

Lobuje East. Our French and Swiss expedition was composed of Denise Hembise, Samyr Lazizi, Bernard Nief, Franco¸is Ryter, Serge Chartoise and me. After an approach of 12 days, we placed Base Camp beside a lake at 5000 meters below the southeast ri...

Nevado Quitaraju, south face, clarification. The Bullock-Powell Route (AAJ 2002, p. 295-6) begins to the right of the Slovenian Route, but after continuing near that line for several pitches, diverges left to attain the arête very close to the sum...