South Staunings Alps. In July and August a Scottish expedition was in the South Staunings Alps, a little known region of Scoresby Land in central East Greenland. It was sponsored by the Junior Mountaineering Club of Scotland and led by James Clark...
Manaslu, South Ridge Attempt. A nine-man expedition from Wroclaw, Poland, led by Janusz Ferenski, attempted Makalu by its south ridge from the Pungen Glacier to the col between Peak 29 (Dunapurna) and Manaslu. The route had never before been attem...
Stonehouse Pinnacle, Stonehouse Peak, Trinity Alps. During the late spring, Frank Yager, Bill Griffin, and I hiked seven miles up to Lower Canyon Creek Lake in the Trinity Alps to climb a 1000-foot pinnacle on Stonehouse Peak. Our route followed t...
Manaslu Attempt. An Italian expedition led by Lorenzo Massarotto attempted the east ridge of Manaslu (26,760 feet), which had unsuccessfully been tried by the French in 1977. They set up Base Camp on April 7 at 12,700 feet. Terrin Elvio and Vittor...
First American Ascent of the Grépon. Additional information corrects the note in A.A.J., 1944, 5:2, p. 309. An undated ascent in the period 1900-03 by Charles Robert Cross (A.A.C.). In 1907, Homer A. Rogers (A.A.J., 1959, 11:2, p. 271). In 1909, J...
Tilicho. A Nepalese Royal Army expedition led by Lieutenant Colonel Gopal Singh Bhora climbed Tilicho (7132 meters, 23,400 feet) via the northeast ridge. They pitched Camp I at 17,975 feet on April 21. Seven members reached the summit on April 30 ...
University Peak, south face skiing. Shortly after the above ascent and ski descent, on April 18, Brad Barlage and Dave Hanning climbed high on the south face and descended on skis. Barlage turned around about 1,000 feet from the summit and skied t...
Mount Sanford Attempt. The Alaska Methodist University Mount Sanford Expedition was led by me and composed of James Abbott, Jake Burkett, Franz Froehlicher and Mitch Henning. We spent a week on the mountain in mid-May with camps at 6500, 9500 and ...
Appalachian Mountain Club. Participation in all phases of the club’s activities was never greater than in 1965. It has occasioned increased leadership training for all of our outdoor programming in all seasons during recent years. Highlighting thi...
Rurec and Other Ascents. Our expedition of the National Polytechnical School, Quito, took place between July 13 and 27. Our primary objective was Huantsán by the Rajucolta valley, but the unfavorable snow conditions of the season of 1984 forced us...
Loinbo Kangri, Ascent, and Qungmo Kangri, Ascent. It was reported that a joint Chinese-Korean expedition managed to make the first ascent of Qungmo Kangri (7048m) in the Trans Himalaya north of the Manaslu-Annapurna region of Nepal. On October 7, ...
Cerro Norte. Italians Casimiro Ferrari and G. Maresi made the second ascent of Cerro Norte (2950 meters, 9679 feet) by a new route, the east- northeast buttress on December 31, 1985 and January 1, 1986. The first part was rock which led to a snow ...
Illiniza and Chimborazo. A large party of German and Austrian mountaineers, members of a European conducted tour, ascended the twin peaks of Illiniza (17,278 and 16,700 feet) in mid-November. They were accompanied by several Ecuadorian climbers of...
Variation on the Grand Teton. During August 1948 Dick Pow- nall and Art Gilkey established a new route on the Grand Teton. This route branches off from the regular (Owen) route at the upper saddle; it begins with a traverse to the S. on a rather b...
Attempt on K6. An Italian expedition, led by Luigi Barbuscia and composed of Guido Machetto, Carlo Leone, Nicola Marcantante, Domencico Alessandri and Dr. Bruno Marsilli attempted to climb K6 (23,890 feet) by a route which they felt might be possi...
ACUTE MOUNTAIN SICKNESS, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, HYPOTHERMIAWashington, Mount RainierCraig Dupler (35) and three companions left Camp Muir at 0300 on September 29, 1985, for a summit climb of Mount Rainier by way of the Disappointment Cleaver-Emmons...
Argentine PatagoniaChalten MassifTorre Egger and Fitz Roy, Tonta Suerte. Tim O’Neill and Nathan Martin made an alpine-style ascent of the 3,300-foot Torre Egger via a combination of routes (VI 5.10 A2 WI6) in 59 hours from the glacier. They then e...
Nevado Cara Cruz, Cordillera Vilcabamba. Sue Tatum of Canada and I climbed this peak (17,123 feet) by its east ridge and descended its northwest ridge on May 15, 1970. We were on a short excursion from the pass (Hacienda Chamacaya) on the Cuzco-Li...
Hubbard and Kaskawulsh Glaciers Traverse and Ascent of a Tower. Markus Tischer, Christian Weimar, Dr. Helmuth Kelleter and I were flown from Yakutat to the Hubbard Glacier below Mount Foresta on August 23. We continued in glorious weather up the H...
North Face of the East Ridge of Grand Teton, August 9-10, 1953. This variation, made by Harold Gudro and Jim Shane, required a bivouac and apparently was quite difficult since over 50 pitons were used.