Gasherbrum II. An American-Polish-Scottish party climbed Gasherbrum II as appears below. On July 22, a Japanese expedition led by Yasunari Yamashita placed on the summit Iwao Ogasawara, Kazushige Obayashi, Masamichi Sato, Taro Tanigawa, Hiroshi Na...
Kabru North, probable third ascent. It is reported that on April 27 an Indian expedition from the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, under its acting principal K.S. Dhami climbed Kabru North (7,338m). They established base camp at Dzongri (4,500m...
Fitz Roy, Royal Flush. The climb was done in January/February. I was accompanied by German climbers Bernd Arnold, Jorg Gershel and Lutz Richter. We saw this unique line on the east pillar (1300-1400 meters) when we tried El Corazon in December 199...
Climbing in China and Tibet was compromised in 2008 by the Beijing Olympics and a major earthquake in Sichuan. Writing in December Elizabeth Hawley noted, “Plans for expeditions in Tibet continue to face uncertainty, despite the end of the Olympic...
Deception, North Face, and Mt. Brooks, Northwest Ridge. In late July, Rick Studley and I scampered into the Muldrow via Glacier Creek. We climbed a low angle arête on the north face of Deception Peak and descended the east ridge back to base camp ...
AAC, Midwest Section. The following summarizes the Section's 2002 activities. In February the Midwest Section represented the AAC at the annual International Adventure Travel and Outdoor Show on Navy Pier in Chicago. This was a fine opportunity fo...
Mt. Foraker, Sultana Ridge, Notable Ascent. Japanese soloist Masatoshi Kuriaki attempted a winter ascent of Mt. Foraker. He spent 57 days on the Sultana Ridge before attaining the summit, which was achieved after the official end of winter. Furthe...
Alpine rock in the Darran Mountains summary. After a quiet winter, some sustained periods of fine weather and a group of motivated climbers brought a surge of activity to the Darrans this summer.Craig Jefferies and Martin Wightman made the most no...
(1) Dutch Creek GroupMt. Findlay, 10,786 ft. First ascent, July 24. E. Cromwell, J. M. Thorington, C. Kain, P. Kaufmann. From camp at head of Dutch Creek by way of Trikootenay glacier and pass to head of Findlay creek. The peak is reach by traver...
Snow Creek Wall, New Routes. The Satellite Route on the southern section of the wall consists of eight major leads and was completed April 21 by Steve Marts and Fred Beckey. The central 300 feet ascends a very black area on small friction holds, a...
Mount Forel and Other Peaks, East Greenland. On April 26 Bruno Klaus- bruckner, leader, E. Frosch, E. Gritzner, W. Hölzl, H. Hörhan, L. Krenn, O. Pletschko, F. Pucher, H. Wimmer and I were flown by helicopter from An- gmagssalik to the Franche Com...
California, Mt. San Jacinto—On February 27, a church group camping at Camp Tahquitz went for a short hike on the Devils Slide Trail. When the group re-assembled at the camp for lunch, it was noticed that Paul E. Walker (68) was missing. Walker had...
Chimborazo and lliniza Norte. From January 3 to 7, my wife Grace and I were pinned down in our tiny tent near 18,000 feet on a northern ridge of Chimborazo between Whymper’s two routes. Twice we tied off portions of the tent as it started to rip. ...
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. The section held four meetings in 1962. On February 9 Richard Hechtel showed spectacular slides of the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. His expedition the previous summer climbed Chopicalqui by a new route, made the first ...
Papoose Rock, Hallucination Route. This 450-foot route on the west face is the most difficult yet done on Papoose. It follows several non-continuous crack lines just left of the middle of the face and turns a major ceiling and then a prominent yel...
Nilgiri South. Our Shinshu University Expedition was composed of Taichi Fujimatsu, Hideki Yoshida, Nobuhito Morota, Seiji Tanaka, Yoshiaki Kato and me as leader. We left Pokhara on September 5 and got to Base Camp at 13,300 feet beside the Miristi...
Cerro Torre, Compressor Route, and Fitz Roy, West Face, Attempt. On February 11, British legal alien Kevin Thaw and I climbed the Compressor route from the Norwegian Camp, making the trip in 27 hours. Earlier, we had attempted a new route on the w...
McKinley, East Buttress. On May 29, Don Lee flew Scott Hartle, Joe Terravecchia and me to 7700 feet on the northwest fork of the Ruth Glacier. For the next week during unstable weather, we ascended the 1963 ramp to Thayer Basin. Rather than to att...
Alberta, Rockies, Mt. Athabaska. On 29 July D. Caldwell (27), L. Swanson (27), and S. Imber (30) were on the usual (Thorington’s 2) route on Mt. Athabaska. Miss Imber stayed on the false summit while the two men went out the long snow ridge to the...
Cutthroat Peak, East-Face Couloir. In April Tim Wilson and I made the first ascent of the prominent gully system that splits the east face of Cutthroat Peak. It was five pitches of enjoyable snow and ice with one long steep pitch of ice at the bot...