FALL FROM ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY New York, ShawangunksOn April 25,1986, a man (34) fell 12 meters while following on the third pitch of High Exposure (5.6). His belayer, a woman (30), suffered severe rope burns on her hands. She was using a body b...
Mt. Chancellor (10,761 Feet)—Canadian RockiesThe second ascent of this peak was made by Miss Georgia Engelhard with the Swiss guide, Ernest Feuz, on July 24th, 1931, almost exactly thirty years after the first ascent by Sir James Outram and party....
Everest Attempt. We established Base Camp at the terminal moraine of the Rongbuk Glacier at 16,900 feet on March 24 after a three-day truck trip from Lhasa. We were 12 climbers, including a doctor and two television reporters. Our plan was to clim...
Various ascents and descents. Wade McKoy, Porter Fox, Hal Thomson, Ptor Spriceneiks, and I found ourselves in the Cordillera Quimsa Cruz last June. A bit of ski mountaineering the main goal. A few peaks bagged. No signs of any other climbers or sk...
Austria, by Monk Gibbon. 8vo., 258 pages with 98 photographic illustrations, index, and 2 maps. London: B. T. Batsford, Ltd., 1953. Price, 18/—.A companion to John Russell’s Switzerland (1950), this book offers an excellent general survey of Austr...
Monte Bove, Cordillera Darwin, 1990. I directed an expedition for Spanish Television called “Al filo de lo imposible.” On December 12, 1990, we climbed Monte Bove (2300 meters, 7546 feet) by its east face. This peak had been climbed only once befo...
Anyemaqen. After leaving Italy on June 23, we got to Base Camp at 4300 meters on July 6. Following the north-northeast spur, on July 13 Ermanno Pollet, Rolando Menardi, Filippo Sala and Attilio Bianchetti reached the summit. The beginning of the r...
North Tower of Paine, new route. In February 2002 John Rzeczycki and I climbed a new route that went to the north summit of the North Tower in Torres del Paine Park. The route starts on the right side of the west face and shares the first pitch wi...
Colorado Mountain Club. Two outings were held with 68 persons attending the in-state Shavano outing and 35 the outing at Lake O’Hara, which was illustrated for club groups at Denver, Fort Collins, and Colorado Springs. Another popular program was ...
Chopicalqui and Neighboring Peaks, 1973. The Swiss Tiziano Baccaglio, Renato Simona, Enrico Malli, Ugo Zaccheo and Armando Castellani of Locarno climbed Chopicalqui by the normal route on June 11, 1973. Primo Mella stayed in Camp II with respirato...
Washington—Mt. Baring: On July 16, 1952 Richard Berge (23) and Fred Beckey and Tom Miller were descending a steep, lower ridge, about dusk and in fog after caching supplies for a future ascent of the North face of Mount Baring. They were about 15 ...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPED, PARTY SEPARATED, EXPOSURECalifornia, Mount ShastaOn November 4 Paul Scarborough (55) and his son Dean Scarborough (23) attempted to climb the north side of Mount Shasta. They left their base camp (located at the 3050...
Inspiration Peak, Southwest Buttress. On July 16, my brother Carl and I climbed the Southwest Buttress of Inspiration Peak. This buttress starts at the foot of the south face and sweeps up to join the standard West Ridge route. We started on the S...
Illimani, Huayna Potosí, Cordillera Real. After climbing in the Cordillera Yauyos in Peru, we went to the Cordillera Real. (See full names there.) On July 8 Mac and I and on July 10 Jedlinski, Malinowski, Star and Wasiak climbed Illimani by the no...
Teng Kang Poche, northeast Pillar attempt, and Tengi Ragi Tau South, south ridge. Our expedition lasted from October 1 to November 8. We went to the Khumbu at this time because during our autumn visit there the previous year we had enjoyed very go...
K2 Attempt. Gary Ball and I received permission to climb the Abruzzi Spur of K2 in May due to the late cancellation of another team. We arrived at Base Camp in early July and established just one fixed camp at 6800 meters above House’s Chimney. Du...
Noshaq. On August 13 Swiss Guido Pagoni and I were in Camp III at 23,000 feet. The following two days we were unable to proceed because of very high winds and on the third night the wind threatened to rip the tent apart. On the 16th Guido had had ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION – FAILURE TO BRING RACK, FAILURE TO TURN BACK – WEATHERWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, East Face of Mount TeewinotOn August 16 about 0500, Brian Barwatt (31) and I (Van Roberts, 22) departed the Lupine Meado...
Mount Amon-Ra, East Face, Purcells. Lured by accounts of dizzying, steep, sound quartzite on the walls of the Egyptian Peaks, west of the Jumbo-Karnak massif and on the Glacier Creek-Jumbo Creek watershed, Craig Martinson and I hiked to timberline...
Alpamayo Attempt, P 5600, Artesonraju Attempt, Millishraju. Supy Bullard and I made an early season trip to the Cordillera Blanca April 22 -June 6. On May 3 we started climbing up from the lowest point of the bergschrund on Alpamayo's southwest fa...