Moose’s Tooth, Mount Huntington, and Mount Barrille. An expedition, led by Fred Beckey, whose members included John Rupley, Herb Staley, and others, was landed by the pilot Don Sheldon on the southeastern side of Mount McKinley at the foot of Moun...
A.A.C., New York Section. During the year the Section continued its active public lecture program, now at the Explorers Club Auditorium, with all net proceeds being dedicated to the Club or climbing-related causes. Among these were the Ranch, the ...
Baruntse Attempt. Our expedition had as members Gerd Krischer, Wolfgang Seul, Dr. Michael Hahn, Dr. Dieter Rebmann, Ingrid Weitzsch, Dieter and Hilde Müller, Wolfgang Grade, Wolf Wilfert, Werner Wilmes and me as leader. Our approach started on Apr...
Notchtop. In late April Doug Snively and I completed a new route up the steep snow-plastered north face of Notch Top. The climb began from a bivouac situated above the Grace Falls where we followed a snow and rock ramp which led up and right to th...
Potomac Appalachian Trail Club. During 1953 the Mountaineering Committee continued its efforts to promote rock-climbing safety, with special emphasis on instruction in dynamic belaying and principles of leadership. A regular program of belaying pr...
A.A.C.: Sierra Nevada Section. The Sierra Nevada Section held three meetings during 1952 at the homes of members in San Francisco, Burlingame, and Berkeley. The May meeting in Burlingame was our second annual dinner meeting at the home of Mr. and ...
Torre Central del Paine Rescue, 1992. Around the middle of November, 1992, Spaniards Xavier Metal and Joan Jover were nearly at the top of the difficulties on the 1963 Whillans-Bonington route near the summit of the Central Paine Tower when Metal’...
SLIP ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, FAILURE TO FOLLOW INSTRUCTION Washington, Mount AdamsOn August 4, 1990, at 0500, a party of three was climbing a moderate slope in stable snow above a crevasse about 3000 meters on Mount Adams’ Mazama Glacier. The w...
On August 19, 2009, a 29-year-old woman and her partner were climbing on a route, possibly Trick or Treat (5.8), a single-pitch climb on the upper tier of the Bihedral Wall. A climber who witnessed the fall saw the woman bounce off the belay ledge...
Pik Pogrebetskogo, northwest face. From August 10-16 the Krasnoyarsk team of Vladimir Arhipov, Sergey Cherezov, Vladimir Gunko, Andrey Litvinov, Alexander Mikhalitsin (leader), and Alexander Yanushevich made the long-awaited first ascent of the no...
The West Face, by Guido Magnone; with a preface by Maurice Herzog. Translated by J. F. Burke. London: Museum Press, 1955. 166 pages; 15 photographs, 3 diagrams. Price 15 s.Guido Magnone and his companions have once again illustrated that man has s...
Mount Hayes, South Summit. On April 17 we were flown to Base Camp on the Susitna Glacier at 7100 feet. On April 22 we placed Camp I at 8700 feet, but were pinned down by weather for the next four days. On April 29 we left Camp I and climbed the so...
Mount McKinley and Mount Foraker Massifs, First Winter Circumnavigation. Daryl Miller and Mark Stasik crossed four remote passes, traveling over 350 miles on frozen rivers, forests, and muskeg. More than half of their 45-day trip were -25°F or col...
True Summit: What Really Happened on the Legendary Ascent of Annapurna. David Roberts. New York: Simon and Schuster. 229 pages. $24.00. True summit is an analysis of the controversy that erupted in France in recent years over alternate views of t...
During the mid-morning of January 17, while two climbers were top roping The Shroud ice climb (WI3-4), an avalanche from above the climb flowed through the area. The climber on the ice at the time was generally protected just below the top of th...
Gasherbrum II Attempts. Aside from the American attempt described below, there were two other unsuccessful tries to climb Gasherbrum II. A Spanish expedition led by Pedro Fernández and Koreans led by Kim Hong-Ki did not reach the summit.
Dunagiri, Southeast Face. Our expedition consisted of two members: Joseph Trasker and me. After a two-week wait in New Delhi, the Indian Mountaineering Foundation supplied us with a liaison officer, who returned to New Delhi after completing only ...
Pangi Valley, Shib Shankar. A five-member Japanese expedition, led by Shoji Sakamoto, applied to the IMF for a permit to climb Shib Shankar (a.k.a. Sersank), a 6,000m peak immediately south of 5,239m Sersank Pass at the head of the Lugai Nala (val...
California, Yosemite (3)—On May 28, 1955 a party consisting of six experienced climbers were climbing Washington Column. The rock was dry, weather clear, and the party was properly equipped and led. Helen Rycke- vorsel (34) was on second of three ...
Shisha Pangma Ascent and Tragedy. Our Austro-German party was composed of Germans Günther Semmler, Werner Braun, Frau Ottilie Dörrich, Dieter Porsche, Werner Meichsner, Karl Heinz and Helmut Thiele, Johann Obermaier, Dr. Karl-Wilhelm Dehn, Wilhelm...