The Loneliest Mountain. Lincoln Hall. Photographs by Jonathan Chester. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1989. 232 pages. $35.00Scarcely 4000 meters high and technically not very demanding, Mount Minto is not the conventional idea of a difficult mountain...
Advanced Rockcraft, by Royal Robbins. Glendale, California: La Siesta, 1973. 96 pp. 26 photos, profuse sketches.This important book on rock climbing technique appeared more than two years ago. Blame for failure of this journal to review it promptl...
Denali’s WifeCharles S. HoustonON the plains south of the Yukon River and only a hundred miles inland from the Pacific Ocean the Kuskoquim Indians have lived since time immemorial in the shadow of a great range of mountains, the greatest in North ...
The Horizontal Everest: Extreme Journeys on Ellesmere Island. Jerry Kobalenko, New York: Soho Press. 2002. 352 pages. Paperback. $15.00.The Horizontal Everest shows that a consummate adventurer can also aspire to illuminated historical writing. Je...
At 12:50 p.m. on November 7, Sherpas Dawa Norbu (known as Ang Danu), Dawa Tshering, Tshering Tashi, and I reached the top of Yakawa Kang. It had taken 11 hours and was the result of three years’ planning. It marked the 60th anniversary of the Shiz...
FALL ON ROCK, CHOCK FAILURE, NO PROTECTION—Washington, The Tooth. Walter McDonald (33) fell to his death while climbing The Tooth with his partner Donald Moulton (24). This is Moulton’s description (edited) following the accident.I met Walter McDo...
The East Face of Trango’s Nameless TowerWojciech Kurtyka, Klub Wysokogórski Kraków, PolandTHE EAST FACE OF THE NAMELESS TOWER of the Trango Towers rises for more than 1000 meters. From June 24 to July 14 Swiss Erhard Loretan and I worked out a new...
Permit problems in East Tibet, what went wrong. Everyone asks me, “What happened regarding the permits to East Tibet in the fall of 2004?” According to the Chinese authorities, permits to visit unopened areas and climb in Nyainqentanglha East were...
The Best Of Ascent. Edited by Steve Roper and Allen Steck. Sierra Club Books, San Francisco, 1993. 384 pages. $25.Before there was a name there was a need. The Sierra Club Bulletin had become Sierra and was shifting coverage from mountaineering to...
CEREBRAL EDEMA Alaska, Mt. McKinleyValentin Demmel, Sr. (47), Valentin Demmel, Jr. (18), Guenter Kroh (32), and Andreas Kahnt (19) were members of the Ingolstadter Alaska Kundfahrt Expedition. They flew to the southeast fork landing strip on June ...
Baboquivari Peak, East Face Direct, Baboquivari Peak is a southern Arizona monolith that towers above the Sonoran desert floor. George Hurley and I took four arduous days to push our 14-pitch route up its 1000-foot overhanging east face, completin...
The Dhaulagiri range was thought to contain the highest mountains of the world from 1818 until Kangchenjunga was found in 1848 and Everest in 1852. Yet Dhaulagiri I was the next-to-last 8000-meter peak to be climbed when the Swiss ascended it in 1...
Haizi Shan, second ascent. Piecing together the evidence, it appears that the late Christine Boskoff and Charlie Fowler made the second ascent of Haizi Shan on October 22. They appear to have walked into the peak, presumably from the north, and cl...
Peruvian Ascents. Peruvian climbers continued to make ascents. In the western volcanos Alfredo del Arroyo, Itaru Nishimura, Raoul Patrucco and Alberto Ruibal made the first winter ascent and perhaps the third ascent of Sarasara (19,029 feet) on Ja...
Early Winter Spires. A new route was established in August of 1964 on the South Spire westside by Larry Scott and Don Anderson, and follows the rib crest just left of the "route 1" couloir. Some pleasant scrambling was involved, along with some me...
Alpine Club of Canada, 1951. It had been hoped to hold the annual summer camp in the French Military Group (Kananaskis area) in 1951. Intensive reconnaissance failed to find any campsite that was sufficiently close to the main climbing and at the ...
This is the thirty-fifth issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the sixth that has been edited and published jointly by The American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada.Canada: This issue includes several accident reports fr...
Center Peak, approximately 9600 ft. First ascent, August 10. E. Cromwell, P. Kaufmann, C. Kain. From camp at head of Bugaboo glacier, to plateau of Bugaboo glacier, thence via moraine crest to foot of Snowpatch Spire. Crossed southwest arm of Buga...
RAPPEL FAILURE-MISPERCEPTION OF ANCHOR, FALL ON ICEAlberta, Banff National Park, Selenium FallsOn December 12, a party of three had completed Selenium Falls, a water ice Grade 5 route. To descend, the climbers threaded their ropes through an exist...
Lorna Ream, 1930-2010In the fall of 1965, I was a restless 17-year old growing up in Spokane, Washington, and trying to find my place in a tribe of outdoor people known as the Spokane Mountaineers. They had a chalet halfway to the summit of nearby...