FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIES,OFF ROUTEAlberta, Chinaman’s PeakOn June 28, Allan J. (30) was leading pitch eight of the Northeast Face route (450m, 5.6) on Chinaman’s Peak about 1300. He tried to go straight up from the ...
Annapurna III Attempt and Tragedy. A Slovene expedition led by Boris Strmšek attempted a new route on the southwest face of Annapurna III (7555 meters, 24,787 feet). They placed Base Camp, Camps I, II and III at 4050, 5100, 5750 and 6600 meters. O...
Peak 8,920', East Face, First Ascent. Smith Curry and I landed on the Thunder Glacier with few plans and knowledge of the area. On the flight in, we scoped out the West Buttress of Hunter, but an active serac thwarted our desire to do the route. S...
Boulder Canyon, 1982. On the right side of Security Risk, Eric Eriksson and I climbed Comfortably Numb (120 feet, 5.12a), featuring 55 feet of overhanging face moves along a thin crack. The climb had previously been cleaned and one bolt placed on ...
FALL ON ROCK, FAULTY USE OF EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCE New York, ShawangunksOn June 21, a female climber (21) was being top roped on Squiggles when she fell. The problem was that rather than clipping a carabiner onto the knotted loop at the end of th...
Dieppe Mountain, Roosevelt-Churchill-Stalin Group, Muskwa Range. After our previous visit (A.A.J., 1986, page 184), we were so enchanted with the region of many unclimbed peaks that we returned in 1987. The problem is the approach with ferrying fo...
Arjuna South, Kijai Nala, Kishtwar Himalaya. Arjuna (6230 meters, 20,440 feet) was the objective of the Klub Wysokorgórski Gdansk - Sopot-Gdynia Expedition. The climbers were Waclaw Otreba, leader, Janusz Bartos, Czech Jakubczyk, Piotr Puzyrewski,...
Antisana Sur, Northwest Face, New Route. On February 14, 2001, Tim Connelly and I left our base camp below the moraines (4600m) at 3 a.m. for Antisana Sur. We crossed the bergschrund below the northwest face at 5:30 a.m. and took the right of the ...
Exodus, first ascent, Lefternliest Couloir; Ice Pyramid, attempt. On April 29 Rob Jones of R&R Guide Services flew Seth Holden, Steve Sinor, and me to the Big River Glacier, where a gorgeous unclimbed mountain marked as Peak 8,385' rose above ...
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. The D.M.C., with its unique history and long tradition of supporting rock climbing and mountaineering in the Dartmouth community in Hanover, NH, is one of the largest affiliate clubs within the Dartmouth Outing Club....
Langtang Ri. An expedition of three Japanese and three Nepalese was led by Ryohei Nishioku. They climbed the previously ascended southwest ridge of Langtang Ri, establishing three high camps. On October 9, Japanese Yasunori Tsuchiya, Nepalese Sude...
McKinley, Cassin Ridge Variant. Our Slovak expedition was composed of Emil Hasík, Josef Nežerka, Igor Valiga and me as leader. After landing on the Kahiltna Glacier on May 20, for acclimatization we climbed that same day to 3000 meters on Mount Cr...
In mid-May we were hanging around Haines Junction, looking for Bill Karman, our helicopter pilot, who was supposed to take us to the Seward Glacier at the base of the Hummingbird Ridge, the main goal of our expedition. We walked into a restaurant,...
Lhotse Shar Attempt. South Korean Heo Young-Ho and Sherpas Ang Dorje and Ongchu attempted the normal route, the southeast ridge, of Lhotse Shar after leaving Kathmandu very late, on May 5. They reached 8100 meters on May 29 and then gave up. They ...
The Hand of Fatima, Harmattan Rodeo. For many years, my regular gang of climbing partners—Todd Skinner, Bobby Model, Andy deKlerk, Ed February, Scott Milton, Bill Hatcher and Peter Mallamo—and I were intrigued by photos we had seen in Spanish maga...
Langshisha Ri Southwest Summit. Leader Miroslaw Gradzielewski, Anna Bruzdowicz-Dudek and Jolanta Patynowska of a seven-person Polish expedition reached the southwest summit of Langshisha Ri (c.6145 meters, 20,160 feet) by its southeast ridge on Oc...
The First American Ascent of the Grépon. Does anyone know who made it? The earliest records available are curiously associated with a single surname. The editor has found nothing earlier than the traverses of Joseph Cooke Smith (1863-1942), undate...
In the Shadow of the Giants—Mountain Ascents Past and Present. Tom King. A. S. Barnes & Co., San Diego and New York, 1981. 262 pages, black and white photographs, sketch maps, glossary, bibliography. $11.95.If you are a mountaineering history ...
Marcus Baker, Chugach Mountains. In August, Kate Allen, John Wittmayer, Randall Jones and I spent twelve days relaying equipment up to the headwall of the Matanuska Glacier to our Base Camp. During this time we made two superb first ascents. From ...
Chalten massif, summary. The 2008-09 season had only one extended period of good weather, for almost two weeks in early December. Surprisingly, in spite of such a prolonged window, little new or “creative” climbing was done. The two most significa...