Akshirak and Pamir Alai Ranges, Various Ascents. In July, Chris Seashore, Carol Petrelli, Blase Reardon and I went to the Akshirak Range in eastern Kyrgyzstan for ski mountaineering. The range is a day’s drive (by old slow Russian army truck) due ...
Mitsinjoarivo, east face. In September Sandro Borini, Paolo Stoppini, Daniele Zinetti, and I put up a new route on the east face of Mitsinjoarivo. It proved to be a magnificent route with varied climbing. We equipped all eight pitches with 8mm sta...
The Mountaineers. Climbing activity in Washington continued to increase during 1957. This fact stressed the importance of educational and safety programs of The Mountaineers. More than 400 took the climbing courses in Seattle, Tacoma, and Everett....
Arizona, Humphrey’s Peak. Personnel: Doug Rickard, leader (age 20), moderately experienced; Allison Clay (17), inexperienced; Rick Hufnagel (19), inexperienced; Cindy Johnson (17), inexperienced; Clint Miller (24), inexperienced; Mason Skiff (17),...
The Southeast Spur of Mount McKinleyBOYD N. EVERETT, JR. THE SOUTHEAST SPUR of Mount McKinley1 is a ridge five miles long rising out of the Ruth Glacier. From its base to the summit of McKinley is eight miles. The route is unusual for those climbe...
STRANDED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, LOST, DAMAGED AND INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Yukon Territory, Mount LoganAt 1530 on May 21, 1992, the Kluane National Park Warden Service received word from a local pilot that a group of four Italian climbers on the Hummin...
Cho Oyu and Shishapangma, Ascents. In August, I traveled to Tibet with three other friends from Telluride, Colorado: Andrew Sawyer, Laura Bakos and Jim Miller. Our intention was to acclimate on Cho Oyu, then climb the south face of Shishapangma. A...
On June 10, Brian Young (52) went into sudden cardiac arrest in his tent at high camp after having climbed to the summit of Denali earlier that day. The team that he was climbing with reported that during their summit climb, he suffered from al...
Tahu Rutum, west face, solo attempt. Mothers have it the hardest. “I’m going climbing in Pakistan by myself. I’ll be home in three or four months,” I told mine. It’s an easy thing to say when you’re 25, curious about the world, and fired up to cli...
Northwest Face of Forbidden Peak. The northwest face of Forbidden Peak, one of the most attractive in the Cascade Pass area and the longest on this popular alpine peak, has interested many climbers in the past few years. Other parties had attempte...
Mountaineering in Greenland Erik Hoff, Dansk Bjergklub (A supplement to articles on the same subject published in Journal, Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, Vol. IV, No. 11, 1962, in Berge der Welt 1966-7 and in Mountain World 1966-7.) TH...
It is heretical, perhaps, to begin a tale of pure mountain exploration from inside the industrial confines of a sandblasting helmet, the hideous din of compressed air carrying its own desert storm against a boat’s hull, against the process that th...
In early August Alexander Kirikov and I completed what we believed at the time to be a new route on Khan Tengri. It began from the standard site of Camp 2 (5,300m) on the classic route from the south up the Semenovsky Glacier and then followed a b...
Masherbrum Attempt. Our team members were Mark Miller, Nigel Hillman, Bruce Hubbard, Stuart Bygrave, Adrian Bake, Mike Cross, Graham Hulme, Ewen Todd, Colin Jamieson, Keven Murphy, Alec Erskine and I as leader. We had hoped to climb Masherbrum (78...
The Blockhouse, South Face. High on the edge of the Cashmere Crags sits The Blockhouse, one of the Crags’ largest and sheerest rock formations, seldom visited since it is not near a trail. John Brottem, Dave Beckstead and I climbed a most pleasura...
Washington, Near Mt. Stuart—On September 5, 1955 David Martin (19) and his brother (17) along with Fred Facer (41) were returning to base camp from a climb on Mt. Stuart. They had backpacked to their base camp two days earlier, climbed to the summ...
Cassin Ridge in WinterMichael Young, Colorado Outward Bound SchoolOUR INTENT had been to climb Mount Logan in winter. Seldom visited in summer, we knew of no winter attempts on North America’s second highest peak. Only weeks before we were to leav...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. The year saw an upswing in climbing activity as well as increased social gatherings. Furthermore, we expect to publish Issue 23 of the Harvard Mountaineering Club Journal next year.In January, members Lou Derry, Alex G...
EXHAUSTION – POSSIBLE AMS OR HACE, FALL ON ICE/SNOW, WEATHERWashington, Mount Rainier, Liberty RidgeOn June 12, Rob Plankers (50), Brad Clement (40), and Tanya Clement (48) departed White River for a summit attempt via the Liberty Ridge route. The...
A NOTE ON ROCKFALLS AND NORTH FACES IN THE LAKE LOUISE AREA.James Gardner, University of IowaRockfalls are a well-recognized hazard to mountaineering in the Canadian Rocky Mountains. Data collected during the summers of 1965, 1966 and 1967 in the ...