Nevado Alpamayo, tragedies. Alpamayo (5,947m), once selected as the world’s most beautiful mountain, sees many ascents, but, in the last years, also many accidents. On July 21, 2003 an avalanche swept away a group 150m short of the summit ridge. E...
Gangapurna and Annapurna III Attempts. A six-man Korean team led by Kim Jung hoped to ascend Gangapuma’s north face, traverse Annapurna Ill’s northeast ridge and descend Annapurna III’s north ridge. Neither summit was reached and no traverse was m...
Noshaq. Driving a Volkswagen bug and microbus, four Norwegians, Eric Boehlke, Odd Eliassen, Per Gran, Owe Skjerven, and I left Oslo on June 25 and on July 12 arrived in Kabul. After the official formalities, on July 17 we all flew from Kabul to Fa...
South Face of Symmetry Spire, July 3, 1950. Dick Pownall and Leigh Ortenburger completed this new route which lies between the Durrance ridge and the Southwest ridge and is of similar difficulty.
It was reported that Britons Derek Buckle, Gary Hill, Alyson Starling, John Town, John Whitely and Rik Wojtaszewski travelled to the Jomo Chu region of the western Nyangchen Tangla (Nyain-Qen-Tanglha) in July-August. From a base camp beneath the e...
Nun and Kun. Many ascents of these two high mountains are attempted each year. An Indian expedition was successful on Nun. The 19-man team of the Indo-Tibetan Border Police and the Indian Air Force was led by S.S. Puri. Base Camp, Advance Base and...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. Members were active in many areas again this year. As usual, difficult rock climbing was done in the Te- tons, Yosemite, and at Tahquitz Rock. Steve Arsenault was outstanding in this respect, doing several classic grad...
Lhotse South Face Attempt. Christophe Profit and I failed to climb the south face of Lhotse due to high winds. On our first attempt from October 6 to 10, we escaped from the great couloir on the left but at the bottom of the central dihedral we di...
Cordillera Castillo and Northern Patagonian Icecap. We five New Zealanders climbed in Chilean Patagonia: Dave Bamford, Paul Milsom, Geoff Spearpoint, Ian Thorn and I. We were in the Cordillera Castillo to the north of Lago General Carrera in Decem...
Kumbhakarna. A team of six Canadians led by Ken Legg climbed the south ridge of Kumbhakarna (Jannu; 7710 meters, 25,294 feet), making the 20th ascent of the peak. Robert Driscoll and Michael White reached the summit on April 15.Elizabeth Hawley
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTWisconsin, Devil's Lake State ParkIn late May, a rock climber was rescued after falling about 40 feet. The 20-year-old man was taken by helicopter to University Hospital in Madison after he was stabilized by firs...
Shigri Glacier, Lahul. The all-woman Abinger expedition, under the leadership of Mrs. Joyce Dunsheath, and composed also of the Misses Delaney, Gregory, and Reid, spent the second half of May and June 1956 at the head of the Chandra valley on Shig...
Malitskovo Glacier; Pik 5,055m, Pik 4,975m, first ascents; Pik 4,995m, attempt. After a two-day drive from Bishkek into the Kokshaal region, Dave Swinburne and I were dropped off on July 20, having arranged to be collected at the same point on Aug...
Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park—On July 24, Mr. Louis W. Whittaker, age 26 (Mount Rainier professional guide), suffered severe lacerations of the right leg and minor lacerations of arms when he tripped (wearing crampons) on rock on the Gibra...
New Traverse from Hermit Hut. Miss G. Engelhard, Ern Feuz Leaving Hermit Hut at 5.30 a.m., August 27th, 1933 crossed Sifton glacier and traversed Mt. Grizzly (9,061 ft.; 3 hrs 30 m.) an intermediate peak, and Mt. Ursus Minor (9,026 ft.), descendi...
Kang Karpo Tragedy, 1991. Kang Karpo (6740 meters, 22,113 feet), as it is called by the local population, is known as Meili by the Chinese. The highest mountain in Yünnan, it has resisted strong Japanese and American attempts. In late 1990, a part...
New Hampshire, Mt. Washington—On February 28, Peter K. Luster (Leader, 21), Boyd N. Everett, Jr. (22) and James Wheeler (19), all members of the Harvard Mountaineering Club, were ice climbing in Damnation Gully in Huntington Ravine. Luster, who is...
JANET MAE JOHNSON1935-1973On or about February 1, 1973, Janet Johnson died of exhaustion and exposure near the summit of Aconcagua. She was with a party of four, of whom one other member, John Cooper of East Houston, Texas, also perished. Details ...
Baintha Brakk Attempt. Baintha Brakk (The Ogre) was attempted by Spanish Catalans Toni Casas, Joan Amils, Elias Coll and Jordi Sunyer. They had hoped to make the first ascent of the southeast face. They established Base Camp at 4400 meters on July...
Foraker. The southeast ridge of Foraker was done by my wife Shari and me. We were on the ridge from May 9 to 18 and summited on May 15. We followed the original route except at the bottom, where we climbed the left spur (an earlier variation) to a...