WEATHER, INADEQUATE PROTECTION—TENT VS. SNOW CAVE, ANDCLOTHINGAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 27, 1989, three members of a guided expedition on Mount McKinley were blown off the West Buttress from a camp near 5200 meters while resting inside their te...
HARRY CLAY MCDADE1924-1997A member of the American Alpine Club since 1965, Harry distinguished himself not so much by his alpinism, though he got around into a variety of mountain areas, but by the vigorous adherence to the Hippocratic Oath that h...
Union Glacier, “Mt. Hervé,” possible first ascent; Horseshoe Glacier, “High Nunatak,” possible first ascent. Previously unreported from the 2004-05 season, the Heritage 2004 Expedition comprised three alpinists/geologists of the Universidad de Chi...
Tibet’s Secret Mountain: the Triumph of Sepu Kangri. Chris Bonington and Charles Clarke. London: Weidenfeld and Nicolson, 1999. 250 pages. £20.00.This is an account of three expeditions led by Chris Bonington to a heretofore untrodden massif in Ea...
The Viking's ShieldA solo fantasy in eastern Greenland.Mike. LibhckiEastern Greenland (remote fjord, Southeast Greenland) Fantasizing is one of my favorite pastimes. The beauty of fantasizing is that you can do it, anytime, anyplace, about anythin...
Vinson and Epperly, new routes; Tyree, attempts; Ryan, first ascent. This season, with the support of the Omega Foundation, I led my sixth expedition to the range in order to climb and resurvey the high peaks. With Chileans Camilo Rada and Maria P...
The Shining MountainsFloyd Wilson1THE two figures silhouetted against the setting sun were as motionless as the snow-capped peaks about them; the fringes of their buckskin leggings fluttered in the evening breeze. Like two graven gods of the wilde...
Gangstang (6162m), ascents. This well-known peak north of the Chandra River was attempted during August by senior citizens from Japan. Two separate expeditions approached from two different directions. Tsuneo Suziki’s team attempted the southwest ...
The Red Rocks of Southern Nevada. Joanne Urioste. The American Alpine Club, New York, 1984. 252 pages, black and white photographs, drawings, route diagrams, sketch maps. $14.00.Burlesque, lost wages, racketeering, polyester-clad mid-Westerners an...
The American Alpine Club and the Museum IdeaJ. Monroe ThoringtonIn the Presidential Address of 1941, the present writer offered as one of the Club’s objectives the furtherance of the Museum Idea, which might be made possible by “quarters in New Yo...
Glaciers in the Pacific Northwest. The advance of many glaciers in the Pacific Northwest is continuing. This year it was necessary to alter our route to the Coleman Glacier measurement-stations because advancing ice discharging over some cliffs, w...
SLIP ON ROCK, RAPPEL ERROR - POOR TECHNIQUE, INADEQUATE INSTRUCTION AND SUPERVISIONVirginia, Hidden RocksOn September 11, guides were managing a rappel at the top of the route Snowblower. A climber became nervous stepping over the edge, slipped to...
Peak 5,200m, the Partition, to subsummit. During the summer of 2007, Luisa Giles (British, 25), Sarah Hart (Canadian, 27), and I (Canadian, 28) established a 900-meter free climb in the Karakoram. The route is on a possibly unclimbed 5,200m granit...
The Mountains of My Life. Walter Bonatti. Translated and edited, with an additional CHAPTER, BY ROBERT MARSHALL. NEW YORK: MODERN LIBRARY, 2001. 443 PAGES. $14.95.Was ever a great climber’s life so rich in the bright sunshine of achievement and in...
FALL/SLIP ON SNOW AND LOSS OF CONTROL IN A VOLUNTARY GLISSADE—Washington, Mt. Baker. I am putting these words on paper the day after a more than 1,000 foot plunge down the northwest face of North Twin Sister, between Welcome and Acme, near Mt. Bak...
From March 9 to 22 Indians Anindya Mukherjee and Thendup Sherpa made the first upstream trek along the Ronggyaong and Rukel River systems, leaving the Teesta River at Sanklang, reaching the lower Talung Glacier southeast of Kangchenjunga, and cros...
Colorado Climbs, 1981. A very warm winter led to a virtual explosion of rock-climbing activity in many of the more popular areas of Colorado, but the lack of snow and sufficient cold weather also greatly reduced that on ice. Nevertheless, a few wi...
Colorado, Boulder, First Flatiron—On March 14, Henry Case (19), Anthony Christensen (20), and Melvin McKnight (18), were climbing on the first Flatiron. The accident occurred when Henry Case was 280 feet above the base of the face. His belayer was...
Torre del Norte, British and Chilean Ascent. On January 12 with the British climber Martin Chester, I climbed the Monzino Route (400 meters, eight pitches, VI/AO) in three and a half hours.Pablo Besser J., Club Aleman Andino
Appalachian Mountain Club, 1947. The Appalachian Mountain Club sponsored the usual number of climbing trips during the past year. Many ski excursions were run during the winter, and also a winter climbing trip was held for a week in the Waterville...