In Memoriam AAJ
Donald Phillips, 1884-1938

DONALD PHILLIPS1884-1938In the development of the Canadian Northwest, the completion of the Canadian Pacific Railroad in 1885. with the virtual extinction of the buffalo and the decline of the fur-trade, marked the end of an era. It was succeeded ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Snowcap Mountain, First Ascent and Clarification Alaska, Revelation Mountains

A prominent rock peak with an unusual summit icecap, located between the upper forks of the Stony River, southeast of the nearby Revelation Mountains, is identified incorrectly on current topographic maps. The true Snowcap Mountain (ca 8,350') is ...

| Published N/A | Author Fred Beckey


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Afghanistan, Peaks above Darrah-i-Mulaw (Scottish))

Peaks Above Darrah-i-Mulaw (Scottish). The Scottish Hindu Kush Expedition was composed of Dr. R.A. North, W.M.A. Sproul, W.J.A. Tauber and me. Following the pattern of previous years, there was much activity in the Hindu Kush. Our expedition was d...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Purcell Mountains, Bugaboos, Wide Awake Tower, Wild Fire

Wide Awake Tower, Wild Fire. Being a Canadian Rockies climber bred on shattered limestone and blocky quartzite, I spent the spring and summer road-tripping, determined to learn how to climb cracks. After a couple of months of Indian Creek hand jam...


Feature Article AAJ
University Peak, 1954

University Peak, 1954GIBSON REYNOLDSThe privileged first climbers to visit a major alpine region share an experience that is becoming rare in North America. One such relatively untouched region is surprisingly close to the well-traveled Chitina Va...


Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table III

1951–991959–9920002000USACAN.USACAN.TerrainRock37594558511Snow2138324616Ice20711246River13300Unknown22800Ascent or DescentAscent33454839318Descent2023337575Unknown247500Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock2611245678Slip on snow or ice844171307Falli...


Book Reviews AAJ
A Climber's Guide to Devils Tower National Monument

A Climber’s Guide to Devils Tower National Monument, by Terry Rypkema and Curt Haire, 1977, 80 pages, 8 photos. Price $5.95.The review is written from the point of view that this guide was much needed, and there is little this reviewer can write t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
I Think Therefore I Ambush North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Mountains, Ambush Peak,

Nestled deep in the Wind River Range at the upper end of the East Fork Valley, Ambush’s east face is one of the largest faces in the Winds. Its 800' headwall is guarded by a roof system, upwards of 30', across the middle of the wall. The...

| Published 2011 | Author Chris Barlow


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Coronado, San Calixto, Chicani, Pico Miluni of Huayna Potosí, Condoriri, Italian Expedition

Coronado, San Calixto, Chicani, Pico Milluni of Huayna Potosí, Condoriri, Italian Expedition. In late June I met an Italian expedition, Giuseppe Agnolotti, leader, Vittorio Lazzarino, Eugenio Ferrero and Giuseppe Castelli. They were searching for ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Annapurna–A Woman's Place

Annapurna—A Woman’s Place, by Arlene Blum. San Francisco: Sierra Club Books, 1980. 256 pages, black-and-white and color photos, maps, bibliography. Price $14.95.This account of the 1978 American Women’s Himalayan Expedition to Annapurna I is actua...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Ama Dablam Attempt

Ama Dablam Attempt. Geoff Hewitt, Chris Bradshaw, Gareth Walker and I arrived at Base Camp near Mingbo on March 22. In the area was a Canadian team of six, also with permission for the south ridge of Ama Dablam. They planned to fix the entire rout...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, East Coast, Sortebrae Mountains, Seven Ascents

Sortebrae Mountains, seven ascents. Our eight-member expedition comprising Andy Garman, Alasdair Garnett, Rob Green, Clare O'Sullivan, Jonathan Philips, Tracey Quine, Malcolm Sloan, and I left the U.K. on June 2, bound for an unvisited glacier in ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Mali-ka-Parbat, Kaghan Valley

Mali-ka-Parbat, Kaghan Valley. This highest and most prominent peak in the Kaghan Valley has a southern (17,356 feet) and a northern summit (17,135 feet). The only ascent of the south summit was made in 1940 from Salif-ul-Muluk Lake by British Lie...


Book Reviews AAJ
A Walk in the Sky: Climbing Hidden Peak

A Walk in the Sky: Climbing Hidden Peak. Nicholas Clinch. The Mountaineers, Seattle and The American Alpine Club, New York, 1982. xii + 214 pages, black and white and color photographs, map. $18.95.Millions of years ago, a mighty and inexorable cl...


Feature Article AAJ
Further Explorations and Ascents in the Coast Range of British Columbia

Further Exploration and Ascents in the Coast Range of British ColumbiaHenry S. Hall, Jr.TRIPS toward the Mt. Waddington group from Tatla Lake in 1931 and 1932 and a near approach to Mt. Monarch in 1932 convinced me that I had found the best route ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Foothold and Handhold Broke Off, Unfamiliar with Rock Type, Poor Positions, Nevada, Red Rocks

FOOTHOLD AND HANDHOLD BROKE OFF,UNFAMILIAR WITH ROCK TYPE, POOR POSITION Nevada, Red RocksAfter the American Alpine Club Annual Meeting broke up on December 6, 1987, AAC members and friends met at the parking lot at Sandstone Quarry. As I was trav...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Attempt

Annapurna Attempt. An expedition of four Spaniards and an Argentine led by Manuel González unsuccessfully attempted to climb Annapurna by the north face. On October 4, they reached 7700 meters, their high point.Elizabeth Hawley


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Illusión, Illusión Congelada

Ilusión, Ilusión Congelada. On June 14 we established a new route on Ilusión (5,330m) in the Condoriri Group of the Cordillera Real. The 400m route had WI6X, II-III (5.3) rock, and 40- 70° snow, and required four hours to climb. The hardest and mo...


Accident Reports ANAM
California: Sierra Nevada, Yosemite National Park

California: Sierra Nevada, Yosemite National Park.The following five accidents in this park in 1951 were reported to the American Alpine Club Safety Committee.(1) On 8 May 1951 Jerry WoIschon, 20, of Detroit, Michigan, received a compound dislocat...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Chongra Peak, Nanga Parbat Group

Chongra Peak, Nanga Parbat Group. The expedition of the Gango Tohkoh-Kai consisted of Masahiko Kaizu, leader, Kiyoshi Hara, Tamiya Takahashi and Kyuji Sakuma. The leader was on the 1970 reconnaissance to the Chungphar Glacier of the Chongra group....