FALL ON SNOW, HYPOTHERMIA, FROSTBITEAlaska Mount McKinleyOn June 4, 1982, two Japanese climbers were discovered at the 5000-meter level of the West Rib of Mount McKinley. They were unconscious and had to be evacuated to the High Latitude Research ...
Solo Khumbu Climbs: First Ascents After LhotseFRED BECKEYEncouraged by the magically clear skies of the Solo Khumbu autumn, George Bell, Dick McGowan, and I planned a few climbs before the return march from Thangboche. Accordingly, we left Base Ca...
Yerupajá, East Spur Attempt, 1982. An Italian expedition composed of Ugo Vialardi, leader, Giovanni Boggio, Tiziano Fiorese, Fabrizio Badone and Mauro Penasa failed to complete a partially new route on the east spur of Yerupajá. The beginning of t...
Masherbrum II, Ascent. It was reported that a Pakistan Army expedition that had wanted to climb Masherbrum I turned their attentions to a 6200-meter peak 12 kilometers to the southeast of Masherbrum I. Ten members are thought to have reached the s...
AVALANCHEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount CharltonA party of three registered at the Jasper Visitor Center on September 16, 1983, and were cautioned that climbing conditions were marginal. The next day they took the charter boat up Maligne Lake and...
Cotopaxi, Chimborazo, El Altar. Although our expedition was committed to scientific aims, we did two ascents. On August 26 Nigel Bunn and I climbed Cotopaxi. It is well to avoid the route described in several books as it is heavily crevassed and p...
Cerro Lomas Amarillas, South Face and Other Ascents. Because of its easy access by way of the Vallecito ski resort, the massif of Cerro de la Plata has had all of its peaks and most of its difficult faces climbed. In late 1987, M. Sanchez and C. T...
FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE-STRANDEDAlberta, Banff National Park, Mount Edith, South RidgeOn May 14, two male climbers (38 and 26) got lost while climbing the South Ridge of Mount Edith (2,554 meters) just west of Banff. They did not have very good in...
Mt. Thor, Absolute End. This summer saw the first-ever Polish climbing expedition to the big-wall paradise of Baffin Island; it culminated in an impressive new line on the north- facing flank right of the main west face of Mt. Thor. Thor’s west fa...
Ruwenzori: The Belgian expedition to this range this past summer found very favorable weather, having had several fairly clear days, and as a consequence were able to draw an accurate map and determine the altitudes of the peaks. A number of ascen...
The Crossing of Antarctica. The Commonwealth Trans-Antarctic Expedition 1955-1958, by Sir Vivian Fuchs and Sir Edmund Hillary. Boston: Little, Brown and Co., 1958. 328 pages; 30 color photographs, 63 black- and-white photographs, 9 maps. Price $7....
Ford Butte. Ford Butte is mentioned in Herbert Ungnade’s Mountains of New Mexico, but precious little history of climbing on it is recorded. This volcanic plug has three separate and distinct summits, the highest being either the north or south su...
Carlos Buhler and I planned a 17-day trip into the east side of the Cordillera Huayhuash, with hopes of climbing Yerupaja as the final objective. After an acclimatization period in the Cordillera Blanca, on July 9 we drove to the village of Querop...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, WEATHER, INFLEXIBILITYWyoming, TetonsOn August 1, 1984, James Drake (23) and Robert Shannon (24) attempted to climb the Northeast Snowfields route on Mt. Owen in Grand Teton National Park. About 1500, Drake, unroped...
Snow Blindness*Bradford WashburnSnow blindness is so incredibly painful that no one who has had it will ever willingly run the slightest chance of getting it again. If you’ve ever wondered whether you’ve had it, you haven’t! And, unlike many uncom...
Kamet, 1984. The Assam Rifles of the Indian Army organized an expedition to mark the beginning of their 150th anniversary celebrations due in 1985. The 25-member team was led by Brigadier P.L. Kukreti. Base Camp was set up at 16,000 feet on Septem...
HAPE/HACEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonOn August 8 about 0400, Ranger McPherson contacted Rangers Holm, Larson, and Montopoli at the Lower Saddle hut. On August 7, Dan and Selanta McPherson (25 and 22) had successfully ascended th...
Rebawe Mountain, Delayed Gratification. In July, 1998, Alard Hüfner and I had reached a high- point 250 meters up the impressive Dos Amigos Face on Rebawe Mountain. We were stumped by a 20-meter section of blank wall connecting a pinnacle (on whic...
FALLING ROCKWashington, Mount Rainier, Fuhrer FingerAt 0720 on June 29, while ascending Fuhrer Finger, Brian Benedict was hit by rockfall and sustained an open fracture of his tibia and fibula. Benedict was a client of a Rainier Mountaineering Inc...
Climbing and Skiing in the Waddington AreaFred BeckeyA LONG cherished desire to climb in the B. C. Coast Range was realized when on July 1st, 1942, Helmy Beckey (my brother) and I1 of the Seattle Mountaineers began backpacking up the Franklin Rive...