Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Kashmir and Jammu, Kishtwar Himal, Gharol

Gharol, Kishtwar Himal. Members of a 20-man team from the Signals Regiment of the Northern Indian Command led by Major A. Roy scaled this peak (19,888 feet) in the Kishtwar region on October 8.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, Northwest Face of Chief's Head

Northwest face of Chief’s Head. Early in the summer of 1961 Layton Kor and I made the first ascent of the northwest face on Chief’s Head Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park. No previous attempts had been made although this 1500-foot granite face ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Central Argentina, Aconcagua

Aconcagua. (While the procedures described above are obviously excessive, the Argentine authorities are faced with hordes of both qualified and unqualified climbers, as explained below. We hope they will make their screening process more reasonabl...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Tasermiut Fjord, Kirkespiret, North Face, Previously Unreported

Kirkespiret, North Face, Previously Unreported. It was reported that Danes Christian Ilium and Asmus Nørreslet made the first ascent of the north face of Kirkespiret during a four-member expedition to the Ketil region in August, 1998. The 11-pitch...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Makalu Attempt and Baruntse

Makalu Attempt and Baruntse. Our expedition reached Base Camp at 16,075 feet on September 8 after a 10-day approach. We placed Advance Base at 17,400 feet on September 17. The Makalu group, Jean Troillet, Yves Rausis and I, had hoped to climb the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Fisher Towers, Various Ascents

Fisher Towers, various ascents. Spaniards David Palmada and Esther Ollé established a route to which they gave the unprecedented rating of A6+ (the standard aid scale tops out at A5+). Their route, Look Out! Danger, took 13 days and climbs the nor...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Darban Zom, Hindu Kush

Darban Zorn, Hindu Kush. An Austrian expedition traveled by Jeep over the Lowari Pass and through Chitral into the Mastuj valley. From there they went by pack train to Shagrom. Base Camp was at 15,000 feet by the Darban Glacier. Camp I was establi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming–Tetons, Grand Teton, Winter Ascents on North Face and North Ridge

Grand Teton, Winter Ascents on North Face and North Ridge. In February, I skied in and climbed the chimney system on the North Face of the Grand Teton which ends between the Molar and the Second Tower. I did not go on further because of unstable s...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Garhwal, Mana Parbat

Mana Parbat. Mana Parbat (22,970 feet) in the Gangotri region was climbed by a nine-man team organized by the Mountaineers Club, Calcutta and led by Baidyanath N. Rakshit. On October 8 Amiya Mukherjee, Pranesh Chakravarty, and Sherpas Thundu and C...


Accident Reports ANAM
Near Rollins Springs, Missouri

Near Rollins Springs, Missouri. On 14 October 1948, 30 staff members of the Savitar, a University of Missouri student publication, were picnicking near Hinkson Creek. Richard K. Phelps, Jr. (20), attempted to climb a bluff near the creek. When a r...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Wyoming Rockies, Big Horn Mountains

Big Horn Mountains. The sharp needle 1? miles south 83° west of Blacktooth was climbed for the first time on June 20th, 1934, by Wm. F. Jenks and David Griggs by a route leading up the south face.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Ecuador, Antisana Norte

Antisana Norte. One of the finest peaks in Ecuador, Antisana Norte (c. 18,400 feet) was ascended for the first and only time on November 1972. Now, six climbers from Ambato placed a base camp near the Laguna (lake) del Volcán and a high one on the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Tetons, Grand Teton, North Ridge, Simpleton's Pillar

Grand Teton, North Face, Simpleton’s Pillar. June 16-17 Jeff Lowe made an important new variation on the north face of the Grand Teton on an early season solo climb. In general the route follows the first section of the standard north-face route, ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Kunyang Chhish Attempt

Kunyang Chhish Attempt. During July and August Phil Bartlett, Dave Wilkinson and I made the first attempt on the north side of Kunyang Chhish (7852 meters, 25,760 feet) in the Hispar Mustagh. (It is also spelled Kunyang Kish.) In spite of indiffer...


Book Reviews AAJ
Buch der Talschaft Lauterbrunnen

Buch der Talschaft Lauterbrunnen, by Hans Michel. 503 pages, including bibliography, 64 photographic illustrations and six color plates from old prints. Interlaken: Verlag Otto Schlaefli. Price, 50 Swiss francs.An interesting recent development in...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Cololo, West Ridge, Cordillera Apolobamba

Cololo, West Ridge, Cordillera Apolobamba. We approached the Cordillera Apolobamba by jeep via Nubi Pampa. From Base Camp at 15,000 feet, David Hick and I made a new route, the west ridge, on Cololo (Ccachuca; 5916 meters, 18,734 feet) on August 9...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Exceeding Abilities, California, Tuolemne Meadows, Lembert Dome, Northwest Books

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Tuolumne Meadows, Lembert Dome, Northwest BooksOn July 15, Amit Singh (27) fell while climbing the third pitch (rated 5.9) of Northwest Books on Lembert Dome. He had placed a cam ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, Northern Monashees

Northern Monashees. Looking for solitude, virgin peaks and genuine wilderness, we decided to fly into the Pancake Peak area during the first week of August. The economics of helicopter transportation dictated a large group. Members of our conventi...


Accident Reports ANAM
Colorado, Colorado National Monument

Colorado: Colorado National Monument. On 29 May 1949 Otto Schied, a German exchange student and high school senior, plunged 300 feet to his death. A companion, Kenneth Hesler, grabbed at Schied’s tumbling body and fell 30 feet himself, but escaped...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Foraker, Talkeetna Ridge; Hunter South Peak, Southwest Ridge

Foraker, Talkeetna Ridge; Hunter South Peak, Southwest Ridge. Jim Graham and I made an acclimatization climb of the southwest ridge of Mount Hunter in late April. This was helpful in that we were conditioned to heavy packs, ice climbing and cold t...