On August 1, while ascending Pingora Peak, Kelsey Dayton pulled a large rock off while following Joe Kelsey up a 4th-class chimney The rock grazed her helmeted head then broke her left humerus.AnalysisMid-altitude mountaineering in this location h...
Gladsheim Peak, Valhalla Group, Southwest Face, Selkirks. On September 10, Craig Martinson and I climbed a new route west of the three existing ones on the south and southwest faces of Gladsheim, highest of the Valhalla peaks. The first roped pitc...
Nevado Churup, Southwest Side. On July 23, 1994, after 20 hours of constant climbing, Spaniards Enrique Ortuno and Rolando Gine inaugurated a new route on the southwest face of Churup (5493 meters). This face had the Fear-Lahr-Malatoux-Ridgeway ro...
Grand Paradis, by Samivel. 94 pages, with 84 black and white photo illustrations, and 12 full pages in color from films by R.-P. Bille. Paris: Hachette, 1958.Samivel, even in a book which contains none of his drawings, can be counted on for a good...
Mount McAdie, Northeast Face. Mike Daughtery, Jeff Lee and I climbed this face in July. A large bowl is evident from Consultation Lake. Enter a recess below this bowl by traversing from the east (exposed fourth class). After entering the recess, c...
"Dragon Head”, East Face. One of the most impressive walls I have seen in the range is a triple-buttressed east face in the valley above Middle Fork and Noel lakes, which rises in a 1200-foot sheer sweep to an unnamed 12,140-foot summit. In keepin...
FALL ON ROCK—INADEQUATE PROTECTION ON RAPPEL, NO HARD HATNorth Carolina, Crowders MountainOn January 16, 1994, Timothy Samartino (21) fell about 90 feet from near the top of a rappel. He suffered scalp lacerations and a concussion. ( Source: Deidr...
Louis Kurz. The death of this distinguished Swiss topographer and mountaineer occurred in Neuchatel on March 12th, 1942, in his 89th year. We extend our sympathy to his son, M. Marcel Kurz, and other members of the family.
Mount Monarch, South Buttress. A week’s trip to Mount Monarch in August by Dennis Mullen and me resulted in a third route on this imposing mountain, the south buttress. We had some route-finding problems, some good rock, some bad. The deep gap at ...
Sonora Pass Crag, Sonora Pass Area. There is considerable rock- climbing potential on a large rock massif northwest of Sonora Pass. The highway passes just beneath it. Because of its nearness to a road, other climbs have certainly been done here, ...
Mt. Muir, South Face, Previously Unreported. Charlie Byrne and I climbed the South Face (IV 5.9, 1,600') of Mt. Muir in June, 1997, in a single day from Whitney Portal. Begin climbing at the toe of the lowest point of the south face. Ascend a clea...
P 7291 or Shingeik Zom. Members of the Bavarian Chitral Expedition were climbers Thomas Trübswetter, leader, his wife Iris, and Konrad Holch, geographer Dr. Klaus Haserodt, and glaciologists Dr. Wilhelm Kich and Ernst H. Nagel. The latter three ma...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Leisure RouteOn October 19, Steven Permick (37), an experienced climber, was climbing alone in the Black Canyon. When he failed to return, his father called the Park ...
Peak 12,563, Northeast Ridge. On Fourth of July weekend I soloed this prominent prow in Granite Park near Pine Creek Pass, finding no evidence of a prior ascent. (Grade II, 5.6.)Galen Rowell
FALL ON ICE, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, INADEQUATE BELAYAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressWilliam Finley (24) and Jeff Munroe (25) were injured in a 2,000 foot fall down the “Orient Express” section of the West Rib route on Mount McKinley June 18 a...
Pope’s Nose, Southwest Face, San Juan Range. As we stood there sheepishly at the confluence of the Flint Fork and the Los Pinos River in the southeastern San Juan Range, I thought the 1000-foot unclimbed southwest wall of the Pope’s Nose looked mu...
Thimble Peak, approximately 10,000 ft. First ascent, August 11. E. Cromwell, P. Kaufmann. From camp at head of Bugaboo Creek, via Bugaboo glacier and south arm, to col between Thimble and Howser Peak. Ascended east ridge to summit. Descended west ...
Kimsakolyo, Lloca de Ancohuma and Other Peaks. Our expedition was composed of Pere Aymerich, Francesc Banqué, Jordi Canals, Dr. Marçal Castaño, Jaume Rovira and me. On July 30 Aymerich and Canals made a route in the Huayna Potosí region: the north...
Illampu, West Face, New Route. It was reported that a French pair climbed a new route, Entourloup (TD, 800m+) on the west face of Illampu (6368m) in September, 1996. Further details are lacking. (High Mountain Sports 176)
A Note of Gratitude, The American Alpine Club is very grateful to all those who have contributed information, especially to this section. It is impossible to mention all who have been helpful, but special thanks to non-members for many years of as...