Chamonix Mont-Blanc 1900. Gaston Rébuffat. Grands Vents, Genève, 1981. French text. 143 pages, 8½? × 11½?, black-and-white and color illustrations. Paper.Gaston Rébuffat has compiled a wonderful and evocative record of both a place and a time. Ins...
Mount Hill, Northern Boundary Range. On August 12, 1974, while working for the U.S. Geological Survey, I climbed this peak (Boundary Peak 78). I ascended the southeast ridge from the col between it and a smaller peak just across the Canadian borde...
San Lorenzo, Nord Africana to foresummit. From September 30 to October 1 Spanish climbers Jordi Corominas and Oriol Baró established Nord Africana (1,500m, ED-) on the previously unclimbed northeast face of Cerro San Lorenzo (3,706m), Argentina. T...
FALL ON ROCKNew Mexico, Murallo GrandeOn September 1,1986, Albuquerque Mountain Rescue was notified by the field coordinator about 1430 of a “person who had fallen 300 meters” in the mountains. Expecting the worst, a strike team was dispatched to ...
Aiguille Savoie (11,900 Feet)(Second ascent of the southeast ridge, descent by the southeast face)The first ascent of this ridge was made by Paul Preuss, solo, August 13, 1913, in four hours, from the Triolet hut.1On August 13th, 1931, our party r...
Ascent of Bok’ra III and Attempt at Circuit of Siguniang. On October 2, fifteen of us left Zelun in the Tibetan Autonomous Region of Sichuan Province and headed north into the beautiful Zhang Ping valley of the Siguniang Mountains. We were accompa...
Araca Group, various ascents. Mike Walker, Cameron Burns (Basalt Bigfoot Coalition), and I spent June 29–July 10 in the Mocoya and Teacota valleys of the northern Araca Group of the Quimsa Cruz. While there, we spent most of our time bivouacked un...
Der Alpensteinbock, by Carl Ausserer. 8vo., 243 pages, 11 facsimiles, 13 photographs, and 2 maps. Wien: Universum, 1947. Price, Sw. F. 7.70.Now in its second edition, this book presents the life-history of the ibex which, despite the conservation ...
Monte Cloven, Hoste Island, 1989-90. A four-man American-Canadian expedition, T.J. Thomas, Doug Krause, Steve Gayner and I, made the first exploration and ascents on the uninhabited and unexplored Hoste Island. The trip took place in December, 198...
Anyemaqen I and IV. Canadians C. Hrkac, H. Smit, J. Herrero, B. White, M. Ledwidge, B. Helgason, P. Holbek and I successfully completed an eight- week cultural and climbing visit to the People’s Republic of China. After visiting the Chengdu Colleg...
Cerro Murallón, attempt. The following has been condensed from a press release provided by Glowacz’s publicist in response to our request for information:“Gone with the Wind” Part 1, featuring Stefan Glowacz and Robert Jasper. Top of the Murallón ...
Chicago Mountaineering Club. Harry Lumby of our club, who is an accredited first-aid instructor, held classes in the early spring of 1955 for a small group of C.M.C. Mountaineers, teaching them the wonders of bruises, bandages, and broken bones. T...
Huascarán. On July 31 Andreas Brückner, Caspar Vogel, Mark Ebneter and I reached the summit of Huascarán Sur. Since last year, the route to the Garganta goes over a ramp directly below the south peak, climbing a steep ice wall to the right of rock...
Washington—Del Campo Mountain: A church group of young men, led by a very competent mountaineer, Kieth Rabkin of Seattle, were on a practice trip on Del Campo Mountain on May 31, 1952. During a glissade practice Morris Ensey (20) failed to maneuve...
STRANDED, DROPPED ROPECalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn October 15, after completing a single pitch 5.7 route in the Church Bowl area called Uncle Fannie Hoffman, Matthew (19) lowered his partner to the ground from a ledge and accidentally dropped his...
In the summer of 1994 I climbed the Hobbs/Slate route on the north buttress of Mount Morrison with Don Lamson. From this route it is possible to view the central pillar, which appeared to have more compact rock than the choss we were climbing. A w...
Peaks East of Huayna Potosí, Cordillera Real. Ours was the first expedition to the Andes from Poznan. It was both scientific and mountaineering. We made biological, geological, ethnological and meteorological studies during our seven months in the...
Teng Kang Poche, pre-monsoon attempts. Taking advantage of the recent addition to the permitted list of peaks of this splendid 6,500m mountain on the ridge west of Kwangde, the French Alpine Club chose Teng Kang Poche as the venue for an expeditio...
K2 Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Bernd Arnold, Roland Mattie, Thomas Mügge, Steffen Otto, Dr. Walter Treibel, Thomas Türpe, and me as leader. We attempted the Abruzzi Ridge after arriving at Base Camp on May 23. The weather was bad in th...
Kohe Urgunt. A Polish expedition of the Klub Przewodnikow Gor- skich PTTK-Krakow climbed a new route, the east glacier and north ridge of Kohe Urgunt (23,091 feet). On August 22 the leader Ryszard Koziol, Alicja Bednarz, W. Kapturkiewicz and A. Tr...