Gasherbrum IV Attempt. Our team consisted of Andy Perkins, Andy Cave, Kate Phillips, Chris Flewitt, Brendan Murphy and me as leader. We reached Base Camp on the South Gasherbrum Glacier on June 25. Base Camp and Camp I at 6000 meters were shared w...
Mt. Hunter, North Buttress, Attempt. Flying in with Talkeetna Air Taxi, I could see that Mt. Hunter’s north buttress was in condition. I had visited Alaska in 1998 and had a variety of stuff to go at. I set up base on the now-familiar glacier and ...
(2) Bugaboo GroupPigeon Spire, approximately 10,200 ft. First ascent, August 6. E. Cromwell, P. Kaufmann. From camp at head of Bugaboo Creek, to plateau of Bugaboo glacier, thence up moraine to foot of Snowpatch Spire. Ascended glacier north of Sn...
Toppling Tower. Toppling Tower is a 300-foot gendarme located on a ridge crest immediately northeast of Edd’s Lake and on a straight line between Mount Thompson and Huckleberry Mountain. It was named by the party which had previously attempted it,...
Norsketinde and Other Peaks, Staunings Alper, East Greenland. Our expedition was organized both for science and for mountaineering as required by the government. The scientific program was carried out by Professors Luciano Luria, Giuseppe Alasonat...
Mount McDonald, North Face. On July 26 Jerry Fuller and I made what appears to be the first ascent of the sheer, impressive north face, above Rogers Pass. On the previous afternoon we fought slide alder and then climbed grass slopes so steep we co...
Dhaulagiri, South Buttress. At 11:30 in the morning of May 10, the long-awaited radio message came from Toshiaki Koyayashi that he and Tatsuji Shigeno were the first two successful climbers of our expedition to reach the summit of Dhaulagiri (26,7...
Queen Maud Land, Various Ascents. In the 1996-97 season, I was involved with the following ascents. Gordon Wiltsie, Michael Graber, Rick Ridgeway, John Krakauer, Alex Lowe and I made the first ascent of Rakekniven via the Snow Petrel Wall (VI 5.10...
British Columbia, Selkirks, Mt. Sir Donald. On 30 July David Ingalls (20), leader, Joseph Kelsey (25), James Given (16), Kevin Bein (15) and William Robinson (14) left Illecillewaet Campground around 3 A.M. to climb the northwest ridge of Mt. Sir ...
Manaslu Attempt by Czech Women. This expedition of eight women and four men was led by Dr. Margita Šterbova. They had originally planned to try the south ridge but they turned to the standard northeast ridge. They established four camps and climbe...
The Prow, Washington Column. Call me Glen Denny. In June, I was near Dinner Ledge on the Washington Column. All day I had been watching Robbins and Mike Covington chipping away at Royal’s latest pipe-dream: a new route up the smooth face between t...
Himal Chuli. Attempt from the Southeast. We intended to climb Himal Chuli (25,895 feet) via the east ridge, approaching it from the Dordi Khola (south). The team consisted of Dick Jackson, Kevin Beardsley, Dr. Rick St. Onge, Jack Miller, Mike Yage...
Mount Kenya. The Englishman Barry Cliff and the Austrians Siegfried Aeberli and Dr. Heinrich Klier made the first ascent of the difficult east face of Mount Kenya in August. They have rated this as a grade VI climb, comparable to the most difficul...
Nilgiri North. A six-man and one-woman Japanese expedition led by Kenji Sugishita climbed Nilgiri North by a new route from the Miristi Khola: the southeast ridge of P 6706 and the east ridge of the mountain itself. Base Camp was at 13,300 feet. C...
Mount Spurr Attempt. Our group was comprised of George G. Wis-well III, Brian Forbes and me. We landed on August 23 east of Mount Spurr by ski-plane at 3500 feet on the Capps Glacier. Trying to avoid the tremendous icefalls between the ridges and ...
Sepu Kangri, Attempt. There is a range of mountains in Tibet comparable in length to the entire Swiss Alps that remains almost unknown. The eastern section of the Nyangla-Qen-Tangla Shan lies barely 300 kilometers north of the Himalayan frontier c...
Aguja Poincenot, Southeast Buttress. Our expedition was composed of Graziano Bianchi, leader, Andriano Carnati, Alessio Bortoli, Massimo Colombo, Corrado Brustia, Mario Vismara, Bruno Vagletti and me. The base of the southeast buttress of the Aguj...
Fraile Grande, El Altar Group. The Italian Dr. Marino Tremonti has now completed his fourth expedition to the Altar group, two of which were in 1972. With Ferdinando Gaspard, Claudio Zardini, Armando Perron and Sergio Lorenzi, he attempted the Mon...
Malubiting North. A Polish expedition led by R. Szafirski climbed the north summit of Malubiting (22,450 feet) on October 8. The central peak (23,920 feet) and the west peak (24,450 feet) still remain unclimbed.Günter Oskar Dyhrenfurth
Torre Egger, Italian Route/Titanic Variation. On December 31, Michael Mayr (“Much”) and I made our first trip to Norwegian Camp. We originally intended to attempt an alpine-style ascent of Badlands, but after inspecting it decided to look at the n...