FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY - ROPE PULLS THROUGH BELAY DEVICEColorado, Eldorado Canyon State ParkOn December 14, a female climber (27) was lowered off the end of her rope after leading the first pitch of Over the Hill (5.10). Drew Wojcik was in...
FALL ON ROCK, TRIPPED ON ROPE, NO HARD HAT California, Yosemite Valley, Glacier Point ApronOn September 26, 1993, at 1350 Gleed Toombes (41) took a 25 foot leader fall while climbing a route called the Green Dragon on the Glacier Point Apron. Toom...
EXPOSURE, DEHYDRATION, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT (Rope, Altimeter, Compass, Clothing), PARTY SEPARATED, EXCEEDING ABILITIESAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressA group of thirteen Taiwanese were training for an Everest expedition. Twelve of the group f...
The Golden Pillar: SpantikAnthony Victor Saunders, North London Mountaineering ClubIN THE HEART of the Karakoram, in the ancient Mirdom of Nagar, lies a little known mountain. Although the Karakoram Highway passes no more than 20 miles from it, th...
Mt. Hunter, North Buttress, The Knowledge, New Route. Britons Jules Cartwright and Ian Parnell climbed a new route, The Knowledge (Alaska Grade 6), on Mt. Hunter from May 25- June 6. The route shares some pitches with the Moonflower Buttress route...
Garden of the Gods. 1983 inspired the development of hard new lines and freeing old aid lines by Bob D’Antonio and me. I was responsible for 99% of the drilling, most of which was done on lead, and some on rappel. The reason for rappel-placed dril...
RAPPEL FAILURE, DRUGSNew York, ShawangunksOn April 5, a male climber (age unknown) fell to the ground while trying to rappel from a climb called Minty. The climber was too stoned to walk or write and refused first aid. (Source: Brad Snyder)Analysi...
Gaurishankar Attempt. Rosa Fernández, Javier Alonso, Juan José San Sebastián, Ignacio Miró and I established Base Camp on September 25 at 15,900 feet, at the site of previous expeditions’ bases. We immediately climbed the intervening ridge to 17,0...
Mounts Outram and Erasmus, North Faces. Tom Thomas and I ascended the Glacier Lake Trail, fording the river just downstream from the lake. An excellent goat trail led us to timberline and we followed the main north ridge extending from the east sh...
Dharamsura Tragedy. Three Japanese from Hitotsubashi University started out to climb Dharamsura in mid August. When they did not return by September 15, as they had planned, an unsuccessful search was undertaken.
The Cascade Wall, Lluvia de Plata, New Route. In April, I opened a route on the wall of Basaseachic Falls. I named the route Lluvia de Plata because the waterfall, in the morning, looked like silver bits in the sun. It was eight pitches long: 5.9 ...
Citadel, variation, and various activity. For two weeks in late April and early May, Chris Nance, Dave Ahrens, and I visited the Shadows Glacier. We think we did a new variation to the 1972 route on the 3,400' north face of the Citadel. The route ...
Arizona Mountaineering Club. Our club celebrated its 30th anniversary in 1994. A special outing was held at Tom’s Thumb in the McDowell Mountains, where 58 members climbed to the top all at one time. In general, we have an out-of-state trip once a...
Gaurishankar, South Summit. A ten-man Yugoslav expedition was led by Slavko Cankar. They climbed the south face to the southwest ridge, where at 21,325 feet they joined Peter Boardman’s route, which they followed to the south summit (7010 meters, ...
McKinley, Southeast Face from Thayer Basin. On May 28, Bob Gammelin and I flew to Kahiltna Base to attempt a new route on Denali, one rising out of Thayer Basin to join the southeast spur at P 18,900. It was our perhaps perverse intent to approach...
Japanese climbers Yasushi Okada and Katsutaka Yokoyama made the first ascent of the enormous south face of Mt. Logan (5,957m), considered by many alpinists to be the greatest unclimbed alpine wall in North America. From May 4–8 they climbed the...
Everest West Ridge Winter Attempt. A third Korean winter expedition, led by Kim Ki-Heyg, tried the west ridge of Everest. The highest point was 7100 meters, the site for Camp III, to which Lee Jae-Ha, Lim Sam-Gyun and Park Gye-Hyun with Sherpas An...
Angel Peak Correction. In AAJ 1991, page 169, Angel Peak was incorrectly placed. It rises in northeastern New Mexico.
Hombori Mountains, Various Ascents. It was reported that a number of climbs went up on or near Le Main de Fatima in the winter of 1997-’98. On the Grimari Dagana Massif, on December 13, B. Regien and C. Dumont d’Ayot put up Vendredi XII (6a, 250m)...
Langtang Ri. Only three expeditions have ever attempted Langtang Ri and all three have been Japanese and successful. All have climbed the same route, the southwest ridge. The recent expedition established three high camps. Yuzo Ichinose, Mitsuru Y...