Ambush Peak, East Face, and Other Ascents. The Wind River Mountains of Wyoming harbor many unclimbed walls and much beautiful scenery. On August 28, Chuck Calef and I established a new route on the ca. 2,000-foot east face of Ambush Peak. The year...
Cho Oyu Attempt. A joint expedition of 29 Japanese and 12 Nepalese was led by Takeshi Komatsu. They first attempted the east face but soon abandoned it because of daily big avalanches and switched to the south ridge. They occupied five camps on th...
Puscanturpa Norte, North Buttress. In June, I climbed solo the north buttress of Puscanturpa Norte. When I climbed it I had thought it was a first ascent but I later read that it had been done by Italians in 1981. (See A.A.J., 1983, pages 196-7.) ...
Peaks Along the Cascade-Paintbrush Divide, Tetons. Early on June 21 Bob and Peggy West, Bob Keyes, and Bill Buckingham left Jenny Lake for unclimbed Peak 11,102. From Hanging Canyon we climbed steep snow slopes to the summit of the Jaw. Since a di...
Masherbrum I, East-Southeast Ridge, Attempt. It was reported that Peter Cole led a four-man American team (Cole, Gary Kuehn, Erik Olsen, Scott Porter) that reached a high point of 6050 meters. At Camp II (5650 m) on June 20, below a seemingly prot...
Chimborazo, South-Southwest Face. Mike Woolridge and I visited the Ecuadorian Andes for two-and-a-half weeks over Christmas. The weather was generally poor. We ascended Illiniza Norte, Carihairazo Este and over December 30 and 31, 1984, a new 5000...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO PLACE PROTECTIONNew York, ShawangunksOn August 15, 1982, a male climber (25) fell while leading the second pitch of Dennis (5.5). The climber had been in the sport for about five months, leading up to 5.6 and seconding to ...
Tupungato, Southeast Face, 1986. Milan Romih and I approached the southeast face of Tupungato via Tupungato village and Fraile in four days. We bivouacked at 4800 meters on February 1, 1986 and climbed to the summit (6550 meters, 21,490 feet) on F...
Pyrenees: The mountains have again disgorged a victim. The remains of the guide, Pierre Barrau, who fell into the berg- schrund of the Maladetta glacier on August 11, 1824, were found August 13, 1933, at the foot of the glacier, the rate of travel...
Animas Spire (I, 5.7 + , A3) is located just 50 feet downhill from Ghost Tower. Mike Baker and I climbed it on February 15. Baker led the single pitch by first threading the lead rope through the middle of the spire, tying it off and then jümaring...
Kamet, Probable Ascent and Tragedy, 1984. A 16-man team from Calcutta arrived at Base Camp at Basudhara Tal at 16,800 feet on August 29, 1984. It was led either by Prodyot Chatterjee or Pranesh Chakraborty; it is not quite clear who was the leader...
Mount Dan Beard, South Face. In May Peter Boardman and I climbed in the Ruth Amphitheatre. On May 9 we repeated Washburn’s and Fisher’s route on Mount Dickey (9545 feet) via Pittock Pass. On May 17, 18 and 19 we ascended the south face of Mount Da...
Mount Spurr, Alaska Range. Looking straight west from Anchorage, the southern part of the Alaska Range appears to rise like a phantom out of Cook Inlet. Its southernmost peak, Mount Spurr (11,070 feet), is an active volcano which erupted in 1954, ...
Kusum Kanguru, East Face, 1988. On October 23, 1988, British climbers John Diploch, Julian Holmes and I and Sherpas Ang Jangbo, Kami Tsering, Dawa Nuru and Lhakpa Dorje stood on the summit (6367 meters, 20,889 feet) of Kusum Kanguru, having just m...
Arrowhead Peak, South Face. Two new routes were established on this appealing face in July. “Artemis” ascends the large, prominent dihedral about 100 feet to the right of the low point of the McHenrys-Arrowhead Ridge. Moderate slabs lead to a ledg...
Cerro Catedral and Torre Norte del Paine, North Summit. Our expedition was composed of Javier Ballester, José Chaverri, Santiago Palacios and me. We first turned to Cerro Catedral in the Valle del Francés. The east face has a rise of some 900 mete...
Piks 5,635m, Litovskiy North, Karl Marx, Nikoladsye, Ovalnaya, Nikoladsye South, possible first ascents and new routes. The Shakhdara Mountains are the southernmost range of the Pamir. They lie in Tajikistan’s semi-autonomous oblast of Gorno Badak...
McGinnis Peak, Whole Northeast Ridge and Traverse. In October Bill Kitsen, Geoff Radford and I climbed the northeast ridge of McGinnis Peak (11,400 feet) and descended via the north peak (10,720 feet). We began the climb by traversing P 9010. Betw...
Mount McKinley, Ski Descent of the Wickersham Wall. Two French skiers, Jean-Noel Urban and Nicolas Bonhomme, made a ski descent down the Wickersham Wall of Mount McKinley (see AAJ, 1995, for first ski descent). They approached the Peters Glacier f...
Chogolisa Attempt, 1988. On page 245 of AAJ, 1989, it incorrectly stated that a French expedition led by Christian Bourgeon changed its objective from Gasherbrum I to II. It did change its objective, but it was from Sia Kangri to Chogolisa. That p...