Mount Clark, Southwest Face. This long face was first climbed by Joe McKeown and me on August 19. We began just left of the single chimney system and climbed some 200 feet to loose blocks where we traversed into the chimney and ascended to an alco...
Yerupajá, West Face; Yerupajá Chico, North Face; Yerupajá Sur, West Face; Rasac, East Face. Our expedition was composed of Eric Decamp, Bernard Due, Roger Pagny, Alex Smetanine and me as leader. We did all climbs alpine-style without fixed ropes. ...
In June and July Daniele Bernasconi, Mario Panzeri, and I traveled to the Shaksgam Valley to attempt an alpine-style ascent of Gasherbrum I. Unfortunately, due to the inefficiency of the agency that organized our logistics, it took 45 days t...
“Chutine Peak”, Owens Peak, and Other Peaks of the Stikine Region. When an anticipated trip to Mount Logan fell through at the last moment I began scrambling to rescue something from the summer season. Two years previously my wife Betty and I and ...
A Challenge on Mount AdamantAndrew John Kauffman, 2ndFROM the mountaineer’s point of view, the Granite Range of the Northern Selkirks probably represents the culminating point of the Interior Ranges. Its firm rock, soaring to almost 11,000 feet in...
Chopicalqui, North Ridge, 1977. The French climbers A. Bouyssière, J. Lacaze and Ch. Mourembles climbed Chopicalqui from the north. They fixed 2000 feet of rope on the difficult rocks of the northeast spur of the lower buttress up to about 18,700 ...
TABLE III1951–95USA1959–95CAN.1996USA1996CAN.TerrainRock336939895Snow200029738Ice180842River1231Unknown2260Ascent or DescentAscent296942291Descent184328648Unknown324730Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock232421268Slip on snow or ice75415220Falling ...
McHenry’s Peak, Northwest Face, Rocky Mountain National Park. Late in the fall of 1978 Bill Feiges and I departed the Bear Lake parking area at 2:30 A.M. for a headlamp approach to the hanging valley below the northwest face of McHenry’s. We enter...
BAD WEATHER, EXHAUSTION, FROSTBITE Washington, Mt. RainierA search and rescue operation which involved the use of five aircraft, four Seattle Mountain Rescue members and numerous NPS employees was completed on May 8. This operation rescued one cli...
Leaning Tower, West Face. The Leaning Tower rises 1863 feet above the floor of Yosemite Valley about 400 yards to the right of Bridalveil Falls. Charles Michael made the first ascent by the eastern slope (date unknown). A route up the west face, h...
Everest and LhotseGlenn Porzak*OUR 1990 AMERICAN Everest-Lhotse Expedition had a dual objective. Not only would we seek to climb Mount Everest but we would also attempt neighboring Lhotse, the world’s fourth highest peak. This was also the highest...
Everest, the rescue of Lincoln Hall. At 7:30 a.m. on May 26 a team of four climbers comprising Andrew Brash from Canada, Myles Osborne from the UK, Jangbu Sherpa from Nepal, and I, an American living in Bristol, UK, were at 8,550m, about two hours...
P 6190 Attempt. An expedition of five U.S. climbers attempted a first ascent of this beautiful unnamed peak from the K7 Base Camp near the head of the Charakusa Glacier. We arrived at Base Camp on August 4. We decided on the striking northwest are...
California, Taquitz Rock. On July 29, James Michael McLain (24), joined a scheduled climb at Taquitz Rock with Don Rappolee (38). They decided to climb the “Switchbacks” (Route #28, Climbers Guide to Taquitz Rock by Charles Wilts) and left the gro...
Tunshu Group, Cordillera Central. The idle Mina Pachancoto (c. 15,800 feet) is at the end of a remarkable road which penetrates deep into the heart of the Tunshu group from Pachacayo on the Río Mantaro to the east. There are almost daily trucks to...
The Obelisk, Far Out and other new routes. Lucho Rivera and I enjoyed several summer adventures in the rock-climbing wonderland that is the Sierra Nevada. First was a new route on the steep face of the East Ridge of Mt. Russell. The route offered ...
FROSTBITE, BAD WEATHER, INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Mount McKinleyA ten-member Fantasy Ridge party, with guides Mike Covington and Steve Gall, made a successful ascent of the South Buttress on Mount McKinley. They reached the summit on June 25, 1981 and r...
The Hubbard AffairKenneth Andrasko, Harvard Mountaineering ClubHUBBARD is such a tubby name, without serpentine or exception, no howling past or return to forever, just a designation. Its western countenance has that same schizophrenic symmetry as...
On April 24, Cam Lawson (30) was leading the sixth pitch of Iron Hawk, a Grade VI route on El Capitan. This pitch starts on the big ledge from which the El Cap Tree grows. Jason Kraus (29) was belaying from the ledge, using a GriGri clipped to his...
Boulder Gorge, Yosemite. September 28, 1966 was supposed to be a rest day. I had just returned from a Yosemite beat-out and did not feel up to anything hard. So I decided to give my wife Liz a treat by taking her up an “easy” first ascent. Vic Cow...