Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Southern Peru, Plateriyayoq and Palanganayoq Groups, Cordillera Urubamba

Plateriyayoq and Palanganayoq Groups, Cordillera Urubamba. Seven members of the London University Graduate Mountaineering Club (M. C. Avis, F. W. Barnes, D. C. Lindsey, M. Mason, W. A. Towlson, R. J. Woollett and I) spent ten days climbing from Ba...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Steele

Mount Steele. On June 20, Andy Williams airlifted Dave Custer, Paul Jenson, Peter Green and me onto the west fork of the Donjek Glacier at 2950 meters, south of Mount Walsh. Relaying loads during lulls in the generally stormy weather, we gained th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, U.S., Wyoming, Tetons, Direct North Face of Teewinot, August 24, 1948

Direct North Face of Teewinot, August 24, 1948. Dick Emerson and Pete Owen made the first ascent of this spectacular route. Approximately 150 vertical feet from the summit a unique cave was discovered which forms a passageway from the north to the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Yukon Terrirory, Mount Steele Attempt

Mount Steele Attempt. In July and August, Jeff Elphinston, Kipp Drummond and I attempted the east ridge of Mount Steele (16,644 feet). We spent 14 days walking from the Alaska Highway up the west bank of the Donjek River and the Steele valley to B...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Manitoba, First Ascent

Mount Manitoba, First Ascent. During the 1967 Canadian Centennial Celebration, a range of unclimbed peaks was found in Kluane National Park and given the name of the Centennial Range. Twelve were named after the provinces and territories of Canada...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum II and Southeast Face of K2

Broad Peak, Gasherbrum II and Southeast Face of K2. Our expedition consisted of Viktor Grošelj, leader, Bogdan Bišcak, Rado Fabjan, Žare Gugej, Tomaš Jamnik, Dušan Jelincic, Silvo Karo, Pavle Kozjek, Nico Kregar, Matevš Lenarcic, Mojmir Štangelj, ...


Club Activities AAJ
Stanford Alpine Club

Stanford Alpine Club. Our main emphasis during the winter was on mountaineering. An easy trip to Desolation Valley south of Lake Tahoe to orient newcomers was followed by more difficult trips to Mount Morrison, Split Mountain, and Mount Shasta. No...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Burkett, Southeast Face

Burkett, Southeast Face. In early May, Greg Collum and I helicoptered from Petersburg to Base Camp at 4200 feet on the Burkett Glacier. We immediately made an attempt at a fast ascent of Burkett, but we were quickly shot down by a storm. For the n...


Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Hudson Bay Mountain

AVALANCHEBritish Columbia, Coast Mountains, Hudson Bay MountainDuring a training exercise around 1700 on November 27, 1991, a six-man Search and Rescue team was struck by an avalanche. Three of them were carried about 35 meters and buried, while o...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Churen Himal West and Central Summits

Churen Himal West and Central Summits. Churen Himal has three summits, all of which are given with the same altitude, 7371 meters or 24,184 feet. A Korean expedition of seven climbed the southeast face, which gives access to the central and west p...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Masherbrum Range, Masherbrum Attempt, Charakusa Valley Exploration, Haji Brakk First Ascent

Masherbrum attempt, Charakusa Valley exploration, Haji Brakk first ascent. With Slovenians, Marko Prezelj and Matic Jost, I arrived at base camp below Masherbrum (7,855m) on May 31, after experiencing a difficult approach due to winter snow. We pu...


Book Reviews AAJ
Das Berner Oberland

Das Berner Oberland, by Adolph Schaer-Ris. 4to., 130 pages, including 60 pages of photo-illustrations, together with sketches by Victor Surbek. Berne: Urs Graf-Verlag, 1952. Price, Sw. Fr. 19.35.This is the seventh in the series, reviewed earlier,...


In Memoriam AAJ
Kate Gardiner, 1886-1977

A noshah, Ishmurgh Valley. Bram van Veelen, Richard Hauer, Frits Iordens, Frank Boesveldt, Jan van Wulfften Palthe and Herman Plugge as leader, all members of the Royal Dutch Alpine Club, visited the Hindu Kush. The government coup resulting in th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Himlung Himal, Probable First Ascent

Himlung Himal, Probable First Ascent. Himlung Himal (7126 meters, 23,380 feet) lies northwest of Manaslu near the Tibetan border. This autumn, a 14-member Japanese expedition led by Yukio Niwa was the tenth to go to Himlung. Of their nine predeces...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Himalaya, Batura Muztagh, Batura II (7,762m), South Face, Attempt; Probable Second Ascent of Ya Chish, Probable Fourth Ascent of Batokshi

Batura II (7,762m), south face, attempt; probable second ascent of Ya Chish, probable fourth ascent of Batokshi. Batura II is one of the highest unclimbed points in the Karakoram, though its south face was attempted by a German team in 2002. They ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Cerro Torre, West-East Traverse

Cerro Torre, West-East Traverse. Frenchmen David Autheman, Fred Valet and Patrick Pessi became the first climbers to complete the traverse of Cerro Torre. From December 2 to 5, 1994, they repeated the difficult Ferrari route. Large sections of ver...


Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount Moran

AVALANCHEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount MoranOn July 28, 1993, PM (male—42), MG (female—37), and JG (male— 38) attempted to climb the Skillet Glacier route on Mount Moran.About 1245, they were about 200 feet below the top of the snow to...


Accident Reports ANAM
New Mexico, Organ Mountains—Rabbit Ears Area

New Mexico, Organ Mountains—Rabbit Ears Area—On February 22, William Martin (24) and Ronald Hahn (25) left their car at 5:00 A.M. and hiked upward about 2000 feet to the base of a small pinnacle at approximately 7500 feet which was to be the first...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Fatigue, Late Start, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Hallett Peak

FALL ON ROCK, FATIGUE, LATE STARTColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Hallett PeakOn July 15, at 1030, Robert Gould (53) and Kenneth Brenneman (55) left Bear Lake trailhead to do an ascent of the Northcutt-Carter Route on Hallett Peak. Upon arr...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Shisha Pangma, Post-Monsoon

Shisha Pangma, Post-Monsoon. As more and more expeditions are attracted to Shisha Pangma, it seems, strangely enough, to be more difficult to get details on all of them. We are grateful to South Tirolean Hermann Tauber for information of his exped...