An Italian-Swiss team comprising Simon Gietl, Daniel Kopp, Roger Schali, and photographer/climber Thomas Ulrich made the first ascent of the spectacular east face of Grundtvigskirchen, a huge granite wall rising 1,325m from a point not far above t...
ROBERT KENNETH BRINTON1915-1996Robert Brinton, born in Los Angeles on January 9, 1915, was a pioneer California rock climber and skier with a contagious enthusiasm and a sprightly sense of humor. As a boy he was active with the Trailfinders, which...
Chacraraju Oeste, The Lord of the Towers, to middle summit. On July 8 and 9 Marjan Kovac and I (both from Slovenia) and Aritza Monasterio (Basque, living in Huaraz) opened a new route, The Lord of the Towers (ED+) on Chacraraju Oeste (6,112m), nor...
Above the WhirlwindRobert H. BatesAS our large plane roared up the Wolf Creek Valley, 1000 ft. above the pitted, debris-laden ice, I wondered again whether Walter Wood’s ambitious plan would work. We had discussed it in New York months before, and...
Chalten massif, summary. Several changes have taken effect in the Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre massifs, in the northern part of Los Glaciares National Park. Due to the increase in visitors, from a few hundred in the early 1980s to 20,000 in 1998 and 4...
American Alpine Club Mountaineering Fellowship Fund. Five young climbers were given grants in 1974 from the Mountaineering Fellowship Fund. John Lyon, James O’Neill and Rafael Gurvis were supported in their climbing in the Arrigetch Peaks of the B...
Shipton Spire, Akelarre, New Route. The expedition took place throughout July and August. After nine days, preparing in Rawalpindi and journeying to Skardu, Jose Ramón Ezquibel, Jokin Larrañaga and I arrived in Askole, met the porters and began th...
HAPEWyoming, Wind River Range(On August 20,1986, Dennis Fenstermacker [33] had to retreat from the Cirque of the Towers because of an attack of High Altitude Pulmonary Edema. Here is his account).We left Seattle on a Friday morning to drive to Wyo...
FALLING ROCK–DISLODGED BY CLIMBERS ABOVEWyoming, Mount Moran, CMCAugust 6, Jerry Painter (49), of Idaho Falls, Idaho, and three other climbers were ascending the CMC Route—a popular climbing route on the east face of Mount Moran, rated 5.5—when Pa...
West Face of Mount BrusselsArthur GranNEW LIMESTONE TECHNIQUESA climber’s composure is his most valuable asset on steep limestone walls of the Canadian Rockies. This calmness must be coupled with instant reactions when holds break and shift. The o...
Everest and Examples of Self-Sacrifice. A Spanish expedition led by Juan Carlos Gómez sucessfully completed the ascent of Everest on October 6 when Jose Antonio Garcés, Francisco José Pérez and Rafael Vidaurre reached the summit from the South Col...
Song of WanderingHans MoldenhauerGo West, Young Man, Go WestAT last, the bus pulled out of New York City into New Jersey, and from Pulaski Highway there was that last sight of the big town: of the skyscrapers on the battery which the newcomer hope...
Geographically in Africa, but politically in Spain, the island of Gran Canaria is home to a “mature” climbing area that has failed to get onto the radar of most climbers due to lack of information. Most of Gran Canaria is a beautiful and mou...
STRANDED, WEATHER Washington, Snoqualmie PassJim Doub and I set out from Source Lake early Sunday morning to climb the North East Buttress of Chair Peak. Jim was doing his first rock climb rated at class 4. We ascended the route without difficulty...
FALL INTO CREVASSE (BRIDGE COLLAPSE)-DISLOCATED SHOULDERWashington, Mount Rainier, Emmons GlacierOn July 28th, an RMI client (38) fell a short distance into a crevasse, sustaining a shoulder dislocation while descending the Disappointment Cleaver ...
Joe Dodge: One New Hampshire Institution. William L. Putnam. Phoenix Publishing, Canaan, New Hampshire, 1986. 184 pages, 60 photographs, appendixes. $16.00.This is the story of a unique White Mountain character, famous across the nation—and a lege...
Ascent of K2. By Prof. Ardito Desio. Translated by David Moore. 239 pages, 57 illustrations, 3 maps in text. London: Elek Books. Printed in Holland, 1955. Price 21 s.The most massive assault on any major peak in the history of mountaineering, hind...
Gigante Grande, Torre Jihuaña and Other Peaks, Cordillera Quimsa Cruz. Our expedition was composed of Piera Casale, Vincenzo Chiesa, Mario Dioli, Andrea Facchetti, Angelo Gelmi, Gino Locatelli, Elio Scarabelli, Tullio Speckenhauser, Giorgio Tofani...
ACUTE PULMONARY EDEMA OF HIGH ALTITUDEA condition which is known medically as acute pulmonary edema appears to occur at high altitudes—and this means to mountaineers—much more often than has been heretofore suspected. Since publication of brief no...
Eric Shipton: Everest & Beyond. Peter Steele. The Mountaineers: Seattle, 1998. Black- and-white photographs. 280 pages. $24.95.Fans and friends of Eric Shipton will be delighted and surprised at the appearance of this biography. For several ye...