Center Peak, approximately 9600 ft. First ascent, August 10. E. Cromwell, P. Kaufmann, C. Kain. From camp at head of Bugaboo glacier, to plateau of Bugaboo glacier, thence via moraine crest to foot of Snowpatch Spire. Crossed southwest arm of Buga...
RAPPEL FAILURE-MISPERCEPTION OF ANCHOR, FALL ON ICEAlberta, Banff National Park, Selenium FallsOn December 12, a party of three had completed Selenium Falls, a water ice Grade 5 route. To descend, the climbers threaded their ropes through an exist...
Lorna Ream, 1930-2010In the fall of 1965, I was a restless 17-year old growing up in Spokane, Washington, and trying to find my place in a tribe of outdoor people known as the Spokane Mountaineers. They had a chalet halfway to the summit of nearby...
Attempt on Lunkho. P. V. Brian, D. B. Martin, R. A. P. Mellor, R. A. North and I as leader climbed in the Ab-i-Ishmurkh valley in the eastern Hindu Kush (36° 45' to 37° N, 71° 25' to 71° 35' E). We arrived in Kabul on July 12 hoping to visit the c...
Lamjung Himal, North Ridge. Our expedition was composed of Kozo Kashiwagi, Kenjiro Oka, Kikuo Kazusa, Yoshinori Ueno, Hisashi Sugihara, Satoshi Nishimura, Nakao Ito, Yuji Matsuda, Dr. Yasuhiko Iwasaki and me as leader. We set out from Dumle on Mar...
Summits: Climbing the Seven Summits Solo. Robert Anderson. Clarkson-Potter, New York, 1995. Color photography, 160 pages. $65.00.Robert Anderson’s book, Summits: Climbing the Seven Summits Solo, has much in common with his quest to do the same. Bo...
1951—801981Geographical DistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCanadaAlberta1044319126380British Columbia1295724311323Yukon Territory161931208Ontario10417306Quebec10225000East Arctic5...
Alpine Climbing, by E. A. M. Wedderburn. 12 mo.; Manchester: Open Air Publications, Ltd., 1940.The author has succeeded in producing a very valuable little book on mountain technique for those climbers who have served their apprenticeship in small...
“The Tusk" Attempt, Merrill Pass Area. In USGS Bulletin 862 by Stephen R. Capps of 1935 appears a faded black and white picture of a magnificent rock spire captioned: “The Tusk, a glaciated granite pinnacle in the basin of Another River.” A detail...
The Boldest Dream, by Rick Ridgeway. New York: Harcourt Brace Jovanovich, 1979. 170 pages. Cloth $10.95.In terms of climbing achievement, the American Bicentennial Everest Expedition was very unimpressive. True, two of its members reached the summ...
K2, West Face, Variation. In 1994, the Tokai Branch of the Japanese Alpine Club started its exploration of new routes to the summit of K2. After a long exploration, we came to the conclusion that, taking the West Ridge route of the 1981 Waseda Uni...
Squamish Chief, Unfinished Symphony Route. Finding a completely new route on the oft-climbed Apron on the lower 700-foot extension of the Squamish Buttress took considerable study. Convinced that there was a possible line between the “Diedre” and ...
Devil’s Thumb, first winter ascent and epic, solo. On March 11 Zac Hoyt had an early breakfast at his home in Petersburg and helicoptered to base camp below the southeast face of the Devil’s Thumb (9,077'). Immediately he soloed the Krakauer route...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Ricksecker Point CliffAbout 1300 on June 11, 1983, Lts. Harold Spiess (26) and Paul Magaudda (26) arrived at the Nisqually gate of Mount Rainier National Park. They were roommates, and both w...
EXPOSURE–WEATHER, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, HYPOTHERMIA, FALL ON ROCK–UNABLE TO COMPLETE DESCENTCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanIn late December, Joseph Crowe (25) began fixing pitches on the Zodiac (VI 5.7, A) on El Capitan, inten...
First Free Ascent of the Nose in a DayLynn HillAFTER having succeeded inmaking the first free ascent of the Nose on El Capitan, many people asked me why I wanted to free climb it again in a day. Certainly the spectacular nature of the historic rou...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. The club opened the new year with its annual attempt to traverse the Presidential Range of the White Mountains during mid-semester vacation. Taking advantage of the experience gained from the three previous attempts, C...
Peak Semionova-Tienshanskogo, New Route. Peak Semionova-Tienshanskogo (4875m) is the highest peak of the Kyrgyzskiy Alatau. From July 24-25, Elena Nagovitsina, Tamara Zueva, Alexander Afanasiev and Dmitry Aliadvin put up a new route (5B) via the l...
Summary. [Note: In addition to mention in this summary, several of the bigger routes have individual reports, below—Ed.] The 200- 300m south face of Mt. Yamnuska (2,200m) is steeped in history as the birthplace of Rockies’ rock climbing. For many ...
INADEQUATE FOOD AND CLOTHING, EXPOSURE, WEATHERCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn November 10, 1985, Dan Canton reported to the Valley District rangers that his friend, Carlo Zozikyan (31) who had been climbing alone on the Zodiac route (YDS VI) on El ...