Mt. Burney, second ascent. Mt. Burney (1,768m) is a volcano that stands near the northwest corner of the Muñoz Gamero penninsula, which is about 2,000 square miles in area. Though it is a familiar landmark seen from ships passing through Smyth and...

Andes, Argentine. Jesús Casanova, Ricardo Gallop, and Renzo Vidoni of the Club Andinista Mendoza made the first ascent of all three of the Tres Picos del Amor (18,054, 18,044, and 17,933 feet). After a long approach they established their high cam...

Cancaracá Group. Nine members of the Royal Dutch Alpine Club, eight Dutch and one Peruvian, Dr. Dolf Noordijk, Fons Driessen, Daniel Paz y Geuze, Robbert and Hannie Vermeer, Jan and Anna van Royen, my wife Liesbeth and I, made a very interesting r...

Everest Attempt. Our expedition hoped to climb Everest by the North Col route without high-altitude porters or artificial oxygen. We were six climbers: Luis Bernardo, Pedro Nicolás, Salvador Rivas, Angel Sánchez, Carlos Soria and I as leader; Dr. ...

Washington Cascades, Mt. Index. On 21 August Craig Keyes (27) was climbing a difficult route on Mt. Index alone. He lost his grip on a 40-foot, near-vertical wall, fell about 20 feet and tumbled another 20 feet and landed on a ledge. Other climber...

STRANDED, OFF ROUTEColorado, Eldorado Canyon State ParkOn March 4, a male climber (23) and his friend began to rappel the Redguard route sometime around 7:00 p.m. They quickly realized they had descended in the wrong spot and had become stuck. The...

Cho Oyu, North Face. Our expedition scouted the previously almost unknown north face of Cho Oyu and climbed a fine direct route. The face is impressive: four kilometers wide and more than 2000 meters high. It is hidden by smaller peaks in front of...

Crag Climbing. Crag climbing began in the desert at Indian Creek in the 1970s, when the majority of routes established on the vertically fractured Wingate walls were one or two pitches in length and easily protected with the newly developed cammin...

AVALANCHE, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, WEATHERAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade Mountain, “Urs Hole” FallsSometime on February 24, two ice climbers (both 20) were hit by an avalanche while climbing the waterfall route “Urs Hole”, near Banff. Both died. O...

Teram Kangri. Teram Kangri (7433 meters, 24,485 feet) rises near the junction of the Teram Shehr and the Siachen Glaciers. It was climbed in 1992 by and Indian army team led by Colonel M.S. Gill. More details are awaited.Harish Kapadia, Editor, Hi...

Colorado Mountain Club. For the Colorado Mountain Club 1948 was a busy year, though not spectacular. Trips sponsored by the Denver Group, varying from picnics and easy one-day walks to climbs of 14,000-ft. peaks, produced some 2300 safe man-days i...

Colorado Mountain Club. The Colorado Mountain Club has about 7500 members in groups throughout the state. The largest is the Denver Group with about 4600 members. There are also the Denver Wilderness Kids Group for families with pre-teenagers and ...

Mt. VesuviusUp to the beginning of the Christian era this volcano (ca. 4000 ft.) is not known to have been in eruption. After centuries of inactivity, earthquakes culminated in the great explosion of August 24, A.D. 79, an account of which has bee...

Mt. Shinn, Northeast Face. It was reported that Ralph Dujmovits led a four-member team that made the first ascent of the easy northeast face of Mt. Shinn (4557m) in December, 1995. They then climbed the southeast flank (50°) of Mt. Avalanche (3950...

Kula Kangri, Second Ascent. An Austrian expedition consisting of Gerhard Berger, Anton Dollfuss, Dr. Martin Donner, Kurt Ebner, Helmut Ortner, Otto Plattner and me left Kathmandu on April 14, crossed into Tibet at Kodari and traveled east through ...

Whitney Portal Buttress, Clouds. Seen from below, Whitney Portal Buttress is a large slab divided into two halves by a deep chimney descending from the top. Three routes already ascended the left half, the first done by Fred Bee key in 1967. In No...

Iliamna, Winter Ascent. After landing us on the tricky Tuxedni Glacier, Lowell Thomas, Jr. said that he would take no more climbers to this mountain because of poor landing sites and unstable weather, but he did a fine job for us. Our original obj...

Kabru Dome. Our joint Franco-Indian Army expedition led by Colonel Bal- want Sandhu and me had as its objective training for the expedition we hoped to carry out on Kangchenjunga. When permission for this was refused, we later turned to Kamet. (Se...

Ama Dablam. Nelson Max, Bruce Cox, Dave Karl, Ron Norton, Chip Kamin and I arrived at 15,000 feet at the normal Ama Dablam Base Camp above Mingbo on March 26. Though the weather had been clear for a week, it began a predictable pattern of clear mo...

New Altitudes in the Chaltén (Fitz Roy) Area. Until now, heights in use have come from the basic survey made by Professor Luis Lliboutry, a member of the French expedition that in 1952 made the first ascent of Chaltén (Fitz Roy). His task was meri...