Blackburn, West Summit. In June, 1991, Peter Green and I tried to climb Blackburn via the west ridge, from the second arm of the Kuskalana Glacier. Crevasses and avalanches turned us back at 8000 feet. On June 7, 1993, Green, John Arnason, Dave Wh...

White Princess, Alaska Range, (Mount Hayes B-3 Quadrangle). The first week in April, twenty hardy souls braved below zero temperatures and high winds on the Castner Glacier, to spend four days of spring climbing. Most of the way the snow was wind ...

Chugach Mountains. During June and July 1957 most of the high peaks at the head of the great Columbia Glacier in the central Chugach Mountains were climbed for the first time. Before our 1955 and 1957 expeditions to this area, it was probably the ...

A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. The year’s activities began with a winter meeting at the home of Gus and Emily Benner in Berkeley. More than 100 members and guests enjoyed light refreshments and a slide presentation by Galen Rowell and Kim Schmitz ...

Baruntse. A Swiss expedition of nine made the 21 st ascent of Baruntse (7129 meters, 23,389 feet) when Michel Siegenthaler reached the top by the southeast ridge on October 23. The party was led by Jacques Grandjean.Elizabeth Hawley

Ptarmigan Towers, East Side. Tower 2: To the right of the bottom of the 2-4 gully is a deep, wet chimney/gully. On the vertical wall to its right is a prominent and attractive jam-crack, which diagonals up and left for about 300 feet before joinin...

Rensselaer Mountaineering Club. Although the R. M. C. is still small, climbing enthusiasm has kept the membership list increasing. Probably the most significant achievement in the Club this year has been the publication of the first issue of Renss...

Appalachian Mountain Club. This year the Club organized a climbing and camping outing at the Gannett Peak Camp in Din- woody Canyon. It attracted a group of 32 climbers of all grades ofclimbing ability. Ascents were made of 8 mountains. Fourteen o...

Torre Central del Paine, East Face. Spanish Basques Mikel Zabalza, Manolo Blásquez, Ritxi López and José Luis Moreno made the second ascent of the very difficult route on the east face of the Torre Central del Paine. This route was climbed in 1986...

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED, NO HARD HATWashington, Snoqualmie Pass, The ToothOn August 11, Creth Edward Cupp (31) and Joanne Metzler were climbing the last pitch of the Southwest Face of the Tooth, 5.6, when leader Cupp fell 25 meters pulling...

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION and TOO MUCH TIME TO PLACE PROTECTIONColorado, Lovers LeapOn September 6, Greg (40s), Mike (30s) and I, Matt (50), were planning to do Lover’s Leap (5.7), switching leads and having the two following climbers si...

Chimtarga, west face. From August 4-7 the four-man team of Gladysheve, Igolkin, Kondrash- ov, and Soldatov (leader) climbed a new route up the center of the west face of Chimtarga (5,489m), the highest peak in the Fanskie mountains, a beautiful al...

Mischief In Patagonia, by H. W. Tilman. Cambridge University Press, 1957. 185 pages; 16 pages of photographs; 2 maps. Price $3.75.In Mischief In Patagonia, Mr. Tilman has sandwiched his account of crossing the Patagonian Ice Cap, in December 1955 ...

McGinnis Peak, Northeast Ridge, Alaska Range. After crossing the Delta River by kayak on June 14, James Brady and I made our approach via the south branch of the McGinnis Glacier. Working right through the icefall at the cirque entrance, we asce...

Mount McKinley, Northwest Face, First Born. Steve House and Eli Helmuth climbed a new route on the Northwest Face (Father and Son’s Wall) of McKinley. An account of their ascent appears earlier in this journal.

Climbing The World’s 14 Highest Mountains: A History of the 8000-Meter Peaks. Richard Sale, with photo editing by John Cleare. Seattle: Mountaineers Books, 2000. 192 pages. $29.95.This is the first large-format illustrated guidebook to describe th...

FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, FAILURE TO TURN BACK, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Mount MeekerOn Saturday, January 29, Eric, Ward, Ned, Arnold and I were planning on attempting Mount Meeker (13,911 feet) via the...

Gasherbrum II Attempt. Ours was the first American commercial expedition to an 8000-meter peak. We were Galen Rowell, deputy leader, Bob Sloezen, guide, Dr. Peter Cummings, Lester Thurow, Scott Moore, my wife Aleja, Base Camp manager, and I, leade...

Dunagiri Attempt and. Hanuman. The goal of our Austrian Alpine Club (ÖAK) expedition was the second ascent of 23,184-foot Dunagiri. We were originally Fräulein Hermine Müller, German, Frau Ruth Steinmann-Hess, Swiss, Dr. Erich Bosina and I, Austri...

Overview, history, and naming. The Miyar, north of the Chenab River at Udaipur, has evolved into one of the most popular Himalayan destinations for alpine rock climbers. Serious exploration first started here 40 years ago, and three main high peak...