Numbur Attempt. Five Swiss led by Guido Bumann got to only 18,700 feet on October 23. When they found their proposed north-ridge to northwest-ridge route too dangerously exposed to avalanches, they found the alternative northwest ridge would take ...
Rasac, Middle Buttress of West Face, and Yerupajá, West Face Direct. From June 23 to 26 Louis Deuber, my wife Alice and I climbed the west face of Rasac. From Rasaccocha we climbed east for four rope-lengths over polished cliffs to a small lake at...
McHenry’s Peak, The Kidnapper Van. In the Glacier Gorge cirque, Justin Dubois and I climbed a new free route on an unclimbed tower on the North Ridge of McHenry’s Peak. Our route followed a fairly direct line of discontinuous cracks and corners on...
MISSING CLIMBERS, SEVERE WEATHERWashington, Mount Rainier, Muir SnowfieldChris Hartonas (40) and Raymond Vakili (48) disappeared while climbing to Camp Muir on November 5. Hartonas and Vakili were experienced mountaineers and both men had been to ...
Peaks 10,822 and 10,852. From a camp in the north fork of Snowshoe Canyon, Julie Petersen, Jack Davis, and Silvia Prodan ascended on July 23 to the saddle between Peaks 10,822 and 10,894 from which, after climbing over the east summit, they reache...
Masherbrum I, Southeast Face, Attempt. A Russian-American expedition led by Dr. Lev Ioffe (who resides in the U.S.) on the southeast face of Masherbrum (7821 m) was halted due to avalanches. The six-member expedition was attempting the peak in sem...
Canónigo, South Face, 1984. Ecuadorians F. Almeida, P. Garcés, L. Naranjo and M. Reinoso, all with much experience in climbing in the Altar group, accomplished a new route on Canónigo (5260 meters, 17,257 feet), which they climbed by its south fac...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE, CLIMBING UNROPEDNew York, ShawangunksWhile soloing Andrew (5.4), a man (30) fell 18–20 meters to the ground. He suffered a broken jaw and a fractured pelvis. (Source: Brad Snyder)AnalysisWhen one falls this far from a...
Cerro Barauca. A large group of anthropologists, glaciologists and mountaineers from the Universidad Nacional de Cuyo explored the central part of the Cordillera del Tigre, near Mendoza, searching in the higher zones for ancient Indian occupancy. ...
Radio: The craze for sensationalism in radio broadcasting goes on unabated and has now seized upon the mountains for a new field of operations. The past year has marked broadcasts from two summits, whose sole raison d’être appears to have been to ...
Argentine Patagonia, Various Ascents. I visited Chalten from November 18 to January 25, spending a total of 68 days, ten of which were good weather. Many of the ten good weather days, however, lasted for only ten or 12 hours at a time. Antoine Noi...
Oregon, Mt. Jefferson. On 27 August Don Griffin, Rich Iverson and Herb Curl left their camp at the base of the Jefferson Park Glacier terminal moraine at 3:00 a.m. They reached the base of the gravel covered steep ice on the east side of the Jeffe...
STRANDED, ILLNESS, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, WEATHER British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount RobsonOn August 26, 1986, a party of four climbers camped at Berg Lake, on their way to Mount Robson (3954 meters, the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies). ...
Zuni Needle, Gallup Area. Mike Baker and I made the first ascent of this beautiful 250-foot tower on April 7 and 8. Mike led a long pitch with a short section of 5.10. A second short lead (5.8) put us on a ledge two-thirds of the way up the tower....
Saipal Traverse. After having pitched their second high camp on October 5, but not sleeping there, the Spanish expedition, led by Joaquim Prunés, waited at Base Camp for the next eleven days for constant heavy snowfall to cease. On October 18, cli...
Mount Brooks, North Ridge, Alaska Range. While Toby Wheeler and I were waiting on the Muldrow Glacier for the other members of our McKinley group, we were attracted by the beautifully contoured north ridge of Mount Brooks* silhouetted against the ...
Blackburn, West Summit. In June, 1991, Peter Green and I tried to climb Blackburn via the west ridge, from the second arm of the Kuskalana Glacier. Crevasses and avalanches turned us back at 8000 feet. On June 7, 1993, Green, John Arnason, Dave Wh...
White Princess, Alaska Range, (Mount Hayes B-3 Quadrangle). The first week in April, twenty hardy souls braved below zero temperatures and high winds on the Castner Glacier, to spend four days of spring climbing. Most of the way the snow was wind ...
Chugach Mountains. During June and July 1957 most of the high peaks at the head of the great Columbia Glacier in the central Chugach Mountains were climbed for the first time. Before our 1955 and 1957 expeditions to this area, it was probably the ...
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. The year’s activities began with a winter meeting at the home of Gus and Emily Benner in Berkeley. More than 100 members and guests enjoyed light refreshments and a slide presentation by Galen Rowell and Kim Schmitz ...