Mt. Shinn, Northeast Face. It was reported that Ralph Dujmovits led a four-member team that made the first ascent of the easy northeast face of Mt. Shinn (4557m) in December, 1995. They then climbed the southeast flank (50°) of Mt. Avalanche (3950...

Kula Kangri, Second Ascent. An Austrian expedition consisting of Gerhard Berger, Anton Dollfuss, Dr. Martin Donner, Kurt Ebner, Helmut Ortner, Otto Plattner and me left Kathmandu on April 14, crossed into Tibet at Kodari and traveled east through ...

Whitney Portal Buttress, Clouds. Seen from below, Whitney Portal Buttress is a large slab divided into two halves by a deep chimney descending from the top. Three routes already ascended the left half, the first done by Fred Bee key in 1967. In No...

Iliamna, Winter Ascent. After landing us on the tricky Tuxedni Glacier, Lowell Thomas, Jr. said that he would take no more climbers to this mountain because of poor landing sites and unstable weather, but he did a fine job for us. Our original obj...

Kabru Dome. Our joint Franco-Indian Army expedition led by Colonel Bal- want Sandhu and me had as its objective training for the expedition we hoped to carry out on Kangchenjunga. When permission for this was refused, we later turned to Kamet. (Se...

Ama Dablam. Nelson Max, Bruce Cox, Dave Karl, Ron Norton, Chip Kamin and I arrived at 15,000 feet at the normal Ama Dablam Base Camp above Mingbo on March 26. Though the weather had been clear for a week, it began a predictable pattern of clear mo...

New Altitudes in the Chaltén (Fitz Roy) Area. Until now, heights in use have come from the basic survey made by Professor Luis Lliboutry, a member of the French expedition that in 1952 made the first ascent of Chaltén (Fitz Roy). His task was meri...

Masherbrum from the Northwest and Broad Peak. The Kansai Karakoram Expedition left Skardu and after traveling up the Baltoro Glacier, established Base Camp on the Yermanendu Glacier at 4600 meters. They placed Camp I at 5600 meters on the north ri...

Powell Peak, East Face. On July 4 John Byrd, Dakers Gowans and I climbed a new route, probably the first, on the east face of Powell Peak. We followed a direct line just left of the center of the smooth main wall and right of a huge, left-leaning ...

Flake Buttress and North Face, Squaretop. Squaretop Mountain bears a striking similarity to the Devils Tower. Upon our arrival at Lower Green River Lake, Ron Niccoli and I clearly observed the giant “flake buttress” that ended in the north face so...

Huandoy. In early July Germans Heinrich Gentner and Reinhard Siegl climbed Huandoy Norte and Sur via the eastern couloir (Garganta) route from the Cook Glacier; they established camp in the central basin. They reported technical ice conditions in ...

Dhaulagiri IV Attempt. The British Royal Air Force Dhaulagiri IV Expedition was led by Wing Commander D. le R. Bird and had 14 members. They were attempting Dhaulagiri IV (25,133 feet) from the Barun Khola to the north. Camp I was established at 1...

Beehive Mountain, South Face, Spanish Peaks. On October 18 Craig Zaspel and I packed into the Spanish Peaks Primitive Area from the Big Sky Ski Resort. We approached the peak via Beehive Basin, which led us directly to the base of the rock. Our ro...

Northwest Mox Peak, Chilliwacks, West Ridge. A third ascent and new route was done on the northwest Mox Peak by Dan Hendricks, Bill Van de Graaff, Marilyn Loranger, and me on August 13. This route begins nearly at the top of the highest snow finge...

Zion National Park. Jim Dunn and Dean Tspapport did a new route on Angel’s Landing, free and aid with large belay ledges and no bolts. NCCS V, F10, A4. Ron Olevsky climbed Cerberus Gendarme, a 900-foot face across from Angel’s Landing. He climbed ...

West Kahiltna Peak, North Face, and Traverse to East Kahiltna Peak. On June 13 Bertl Breyer and I made the first ascent of the north face of West Kahiltna Peak in seven hours. The main difficulties were in the bottom third of the 3000-foot ice fac...

Washington, Cascade Range, Mt. Si—On January 26 Clark Phillips (19), Rick Cummings, and Claude Harmon set out to climb the west face of Mt. Si. The weather was mild and they were lightly dressed in cotton shirts and wearing leather soled oxfords. ...

Mount Drum, Southwest Ridge. After being held up for five days at 5000 feet by rain and snow, on August 26 we Swiss, Heinz Allemann and I made the second ascent of Mount Drum (12,010 feet) by a new route, the southwest ridge. This ridge may be cal...

Nevada Flake, The Slot Machine. In September, 1969, Scott Baxter and I did an enjoyable route located about 30 feet left of the center route. Starting in a small black dihedral, ascend via mixed free and aid to a belay in slings. Continued mixed c...

Pisco Oeste, South Face, and Chopicalqui, Southwest Face. A number of new routes have been done on the south face of Pisco in the past few years. It is not altogether clear just where these routes have been made. Maurice Barrard made a route he be...