Mount Hunter, Route on and beside the North Buttress. Billy Ireland from North Ireland and Ulf Björnberg of Sweden made a new route on and to the right of the north buttress of Mount Hunter from July 1 to 7. It was mostly on snow and ice. It was r...
Washington, Cascades, Snoqualmie Pass area—On October 5, Gerald Burns (25) and two companions were hiking across country to a lake for fishing. The terrain was generally steep but with adequate ledges for safe travel. While crossing a steep gulley...
Ausangate, Jatunhuma, and other peaks, Cordillera Vilcanota. Our expedition was composed of seven members of the Academic Alpine Club Munich: Arnulf Rother, leader, Gundolf Engelmann, Uwe Kerner, Hans Albert Mayer, Michael Schneider, Dr. Karl Wink...
On August 11 around 1100, our party of four climbers in two groups proceeded up the route “The Uneventful” (5.5) at Tahquitz Rock. We did not plan to summit, only rappel down after completing four pitches. I led the first group up three pitches wi...
Mount Sanford, Attempt on South Ridge. On June 10 Milt Johnson, Dave Shaw, Don Stockard and I were flown to the saddle south of Mount Sanford. While relaying supplies to the base of the ridge at 14,000 feet, Milt aggravated an old knee injury and ...
OFF ROUTE, PARTY SEPARATED, INEXPERIENCEBritish Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Avalanche PeakTwo climbers on Avalanche Peak found themselves separated. One of the climbers with no previous experience down-climbed a series of small cliffs until he fo...
Mount Lester and Woodrow Wilson. On August 5 Court Richards, Larry Evans and I made a new route on the north face of the west portion of double-summited Mount Lester, using twelve pitons in the good rock on this face. The upper portion was more di...
Iowa Mountaineers. In 1951 membership increased to 1365. Mountaineering classes were continued, and the Club’s system for rating qualifications was revised. Qualifications are now similar to those of the Colorado Mountain Club. The safety record w...
Arches Terrace Direct. On October 6 Bob Grow, Kelly Minnick, and I succeeded at a line Bob first tried four years before. All pitches included sections of F8 severity. Some very classic jam-cracks and two short but delicate face-climbing sections ...
Huandoy Norte, East Face. Del Johns and I set out together, but at the base of the east face at about 18,000 feet, he began to get nauseous and returned to a more comfortable altitude. I started climbing the 3000-foot face at five P.M. It was a ty...
Shakhaur, Roshgol area. After their successful ascent of Momhil Sar, Rudolf Pischinger and Horst Schindelbacher joined fellow Austrians, Gerald Gruber, leader, and Reiner Göschl. Approaching via the Tirich and Tidren valleys, they climbed two new ...
Martin Peak, from Surprise Basin. Joe Munson and Jim Parolini completed a new route on this 7550-foot peak on August 26 from the prominent terminal moraine. An adjoining chute was ascended, keeping left of the Arrowhead to the summit. This class 3...
Kitaraju, Allpamayo, Southwest Face and Tragedy. Peter Millar and I made Base Camp at the junction of the Quebradas Arweiqocha and Santa Cruz. After several days, we camped in the Allpamayo-Kitaraju col. On July 18 we enjoyed a climb on the north ...
Pico del Norte, South Buttress and Gorra de Hielo, Cordillera Real. In the late spring we climbed in the Cordillera Real and made several new routes from Base Camp on the east side of Illampu. Alain Mesili, Bernard Chaux and I took three days to c...
Bridge Creek Wall, “Wet and Wild. ” In December of 1983, Matt Kerns and I climbed the waterfall that forms in the gully system to the left of Bridge Creek Wall. The approach from the Icicle Creek Road took four hours. The first pitch was 100 feet ...
Northern Andes, Bonete group. The Argentinian Mountaineering Association, to commemorate its 10th anniversary, organized an expedition to Bonete Chico, located at 27°55' S and 68045' W, in the northern extreme of the province of La Rioja. Besides ...
WEATHER-HIGH WINDS, FALL ON TO ROCKSColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn February 7, Craig Dreher (30) and Gene Williamson (30) decided to abort their winter attempt of the Keyhole Route due to high winds. As they were retreating f...
Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Mt. Otis. (See accident report) The doctor in the climbing party applied a plastic pneumatic splint to victim Henry Monroe. At 4:00 P.M. a park ranger chanced upon the accident scene. The ranger and climbers...
SLIP ON WET ROCK, BELAY FAILURE, NO HARD HAT, INEXPERIENCEColorado, McGregor SlabLate in the afternoon on July 10, 1983, Bob Gatzemeyer (29) lost control of his rappel while descending McGregor Slab, tumbled and fell free about five meters, landin...
Italian Expedition to Kulu. An Italian expedition from the Roman section of the Club Alpino Italiano climbed in the mountains north of the Parbati River in Kulu. After a week’s approach march, on May 11 they established Base Camp at 12,800 feet in...