Mount Steele. In June, Bertrand Poinsonnet, James Larabee, Steve Tyler and I repeated the 1937 Washburn-Bates route which leads from the Dennis Glacier to the broad ridge between Steele and Lucania. We skied 13 kilometers from our landing east of ...
K2, Abruzzi Ridge. Our expedition had 19 members. An advance party of four accompanied 290 porters and got to Base Camp on June 20. The main party reached Base Camp on June 23. We set up Advance Base at 5300 meters on June 25. We established Camps...
Simian Outing Society. The club began the fall season with a membership drive, netting several neophytes who were initiated into the realm of rock at Portland Arch, Indiana, and Devils Lake, Wisconsin. There is considerable concern over the possib...
Fairweather, Southeast Ridge. Joe Lackey and I were landed in beautiful weather on the Fairweather Glacier. After a false start, we started up on April 21. In five days of windy mornings and sunny afternoons, we got to the top on April 25. We made...
SLIP ON ROCK, FATIGUEBritish Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Terminal PeakOn October 7, 1991, the last day of a seven-day mountaineering course, a group from the University of Calgary climbed Terminal Peak, and were descending over broken ground cove...
Dhaulagiri Autumn Ascents and Attempts. There were a number of expeditions in the post-monsoon season on Dhaulagiri’s northeast ridge. Members of an expedition led by Karl Kobler completed the 42nd ascent when Swiss Kobler, Hans Ruedi Roesti, Pete...
Point 4,400m above the Trango Glacier, first ascent (Sadu). A few days after their climb on Eternal Flame, Antoine and Sandrine de Choudens set off on July 20 for what they hoped would prove a pleasant rock climb on one of the small buttresses abo...
Venezia Tidentina. 4to., 240 pages and 422 illustrations from photos, 4 in color, and one map. 17th of a series of 19 (Attraverso l’Italia). Touring Club Italiano: Milan, 1951; 2nd edition 1952. Price, L. 2000.Sicilia. Similar in format; 4th of th...
Langar Group, Sar Shkhawr Valley. The Silesian Hindu Kush Expedition was led by Jan Weigel and composed of A. Bara, Z. Burczak, W. Betlejewski, Z. Bojarski, T. Dyczkowski, M. Kulak, M. Kuras, F. Köhler, K. Kwiatkowski, J. Majchrowicz, K. Opyrchal,...
Nepal Alpine Guides Course. The Aleš Kunaver School was established in 1979 in Manang in the Peri Himal by our Planinska zveza Slovenije (Slovene Mountaineering Association). In 1992 between August 20 and September 25, it was directed by Matevž Le...
Government avalanche warning. After the 2004-05 winter, following the heaviest snowfall in Pakistan for over 40 years, Pakistan’s Meteorological Department issued a warning to climbers and trekkers planning to visit the Karakoram and Hindu Kush du...
Cerro Torre, West Face Attempt, “Crystals in the Wind. ” On October 23, 1994, despite doubtful weather, Elio Orlandi, Odoardo Ravizza and I headed for the Southern Patagonian Icecap to wait out the weather in a snow cave. On October 27, a surprisi...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, OFF-ROUTE, UNROPED Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount MoranBeset by bad weather and injury, a climber wearing shorts, running tights and a light jacket spent two nights on Mount Moran without overnight ge...
Washington, Castle Rock—On 8 Dec. Leonard Miller (33) and Dick Wahl- strom (24) had completed a good fifth class climb up the face of Castle Rock. Conditions were bad due to ice and snow on the rock, but both were eager climbers and of moderate ex...
RAPPEL ERROR—ROPES UNEVENColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Hand CrackOn June 11, a climber (29) rappelled off the end of one-half of his rope and fell 30 feet. He indicated that his rappel rope was not doubled equally. (Source: Tim Metzger, Pa...
Shisha Pangma Central, Southwest Side. On September 29, Spaniards Ernest Bladé, Albert Castellet, Araceli Segarra and Ferrán Latorre repeated the route climbed on the southwest side of Shisha Pangma by Loretan, Troillet and Kurtyka in 1990. Like t...
Torre Central, Attempt, Conflageration, and Plain Hard Luck. A British expedition comprising Noel Craine, Simon Nadin and Strappo Hughes did not summit on the Central Tower of Paine in the Chilean Patagonia in February. If you like ghost stories, ...
Mountaineering at Harvard. The Harvard Mountaineering Club is unique among college mountaineering clubs in this countryin that it is the only one of long existence and achievement. The greatest accomplishments in the past have usually been achieve...
Mt. Sacagawea, Northwest Face. On September 3, after humping into Titcomb Basin with enough gear for 15 days in the wilderness, my brother Jamie and I established a first ascent on the northwest face of Mt. Sacagawea. The incredible Dixie Chickens...
Interesting Statistics. In 1987, new all-time records were set for the number of people attempting Mount McKinley: 1978 = 539; 1979 = 533; 1980 = 659; 1981=612; 1982 = 696; 1983 = 709; 1984 = 695; 1985 = 645; 1986 = 755; 1987 = 817. Success Rate: ...