Mountains and Men, by Wilfrid Noyce. 160 pages, with four maps and 17 illustrations. London: Geoffrey Bles, 1947. 18,/-.Ten years ago, when Wilfrid Noyce was an undergraduate at King’s and the editor of Cambridge Mountaineering, 1938, he was alrea...
Fitz Roy and Cerro TorreAlan KearneyTHE MORNING of December 23 heralded the start of our third day on the North Pillar of Fitz Roy. There was enough light to begin climbing but we were tired. My partner Bobby Knight slept soundly and he needed the...
On July 17 Mathew Traver and I traveled to the Malaysian Island of Tioman in the South China Sea. Our objective was the first ascent of the west face of Dragon’s Horns (Bukit Nekek Semekut), a big wall rising from the canopy of the rainforest on t...
Bugaboos Camp of the A.C.C. The 1946 camp of the Alpine Club of Canada was held during the latter half of July in the Bugaboos of the Northern Purcells, W. of the main range of the Canadian Rockies and S.E. of the Selkirks. Main camp was located a...
TABLE III1951-941959-9419951995USACAN.USACAN.TerrainRock325238411714Snow1957293434Ice1727886River12300Unknown22600Ascent or DescentAscent295741011312Descent17892745412Unknown3246310Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock2147205777Slip on snow or ice72...
HAROLD B. BURTON1908-1992Harold B. Burton died on March 8, 1992 at the age of 84 after a distinguished career as a newspaper reporter and author as well as a mountaineer who in World War II was involved with the training of thousands of soldiers i...
The Mt. McKinley Cosmic Ray Expedition, 1932Edward P. BeckwithIN looking backward to the spring of 1932 it is hard to imagine a more interesting proposal than that of Allen Carpe to join his expedition for measuring cosmic rays, which included a f...
FALLING ROCKS, FALL ON ROCK, POOR POSITIONWashington, Lundin PeakOn September 10, Rob Crapo (37) successfully summitted Lundin Peak (6,057 feet) at 1330 with six members of the Seattle Mountaineers. Rob, an experienced climber with an extensive re...
Daxuetang (5,364m), first ascent. Daxu- etang lies almost due south of Siguniang and is the highest peak within the boundaries of Chengdu city. It borders Wolong Giant Panda Nature Preserve, and we approached and climbed the mountain from that sid...
Canadian Landscape, by F. H. Brigden, with biographical notes by J. E. Middleton. 4to; 112 pages with many illustrations, including 24 color plates. Toronto: The Ryerson Press, 1944 and 1945. $5.00.This fine volume presents the work of a man of gr...
Gaurishankar Attempt. A seven-man Austrian expedition led by Franz Huber attempted the southwest ridge of Gaurishankar but reached only 19,000 feet. Very strong winds on the night of April 19 to 20 destroyed so many tents and ruined so much equipm...
JAMES W. WALSH, JR.1887-1958Devotion to the out-of-doors and loyalty to the organizations of which he was a member were two of Jay Walsh’s outstanding characteristics. Jay’s interest in climbing, skiing, and cross-country walking dated back to an ...
Mount Everest, Post-Monsoon. In the post-monsoon, on the South Col route for Everest, there were three parties: seven South Koreans with an equal number of climbing Sherpas; a team of four French, two Belgian and one Swiss with four Sherpas; and o...
Merrimac Butte, The Hyper-Crack on the Anchor Chain. Both the Monitor and the Merrimac Buttes, named for the armored ships which fought each other during the Civil War, are prominent landmarks 12 miles northwest of Moab. They are composed of reddi...
California, Yosemite National Park, Washington Column (2). Unexpected fine weather prevailed on the morning of 9 November giving the prospect of a good day for climbing the piton traverse route on Washington Column in Yosemite Valley. David Coward...
Mount Everest, 1952Norman G. DYHRENFURTHAll writing by members of the Swiss Everest expedition of 1952 is copyrighted by the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, Zurich. This article by our member appears entirely as a courtesy to the American Al...
Jughandle Mountain, various routes. The northwest face of Jughandle Mountain (8,340') is directly above picturesque Louie Lake, near McCall, in the Salmon River Mountains. I ran across this face in 1999 during a hike with my kids. Over the last fe...
FALL ON SNOW, HYPOTHERMIA, FROSTBITEAlaska Mount McKinleyOn June 4, 1982, two Japanese climbers were discovered at the 5000-meter level of the West Rib of Mount McKinley. They were unconscious and had to be evacuated to the High Latitude Research ...
Solo Khumbu Climbs: First Ascents After LhotseFRED BECKEYEncouraged by the magically clear skies of the Solo Khumbu autumn, George Bell, Dick McGowan, and I planned a few climbs before the return march from Thangboche. Accordingly, we left Base Ca...
Yerupajá, East Spur Attempt, 1982. An Italian expedition composed of Ugo Vialardi, leader, Giovanni Boggio, Tiziano Fiorese, Fabrizio Badone and Mauro Penasa failed to complete a partially new route on the east spur of Yerupajá. The beginning of t...