Broad Peak Attempt and Ascent of P 6393. Gerard van Sprang, liaison officer Haider Ali Khan and I arrived at Base Camp on June 20. On June 25 we two Netherlanders climbed P 6393 (20,975 feet). This peak lies east of the Godwin Austen Glacier betwe...
Huandoy Sur, Crise del fe. What a crazy idea we had! Five young guys—Yann Bonneville, Benoit Chanal, Francois Dupety, Pierrick Keller, and Theo Dubois—suddenly decided to travel to a mythical destination, not yet knowing exactly where. Finally we ...
P 3385 and P2517 near San Lorenzo, 1989. S. Scarvarda and I made the first ascent of P 3385 (11,115 feet) by its west face on November 27, 1989. We climbed it in 13 hours from Camp II on the Paso de la Comisa. The peak lies three kilometers southw...
On Tuesday, October 5, with the great enthusiasm and motivation of Ivan “Topo” Rocamora, we left his flat in Mendoza for the mountains, and with 23kg on our backs—no mules in our low budget—and three hours of daylight remaining, we started up th...
Gasherbrum VI. Maria Luisa Ercalani led this expedition about which we were able to obtain no details. On the approach march a low-altitude porter on May 9 fell off a bridge near Chapko and was drowned. She claims to have climbed Gasherbrum VI (70...
Cordillera Blanca. A group from the Munich section of the Deutscher Alpenverein climbed in the summer of 1955 in the Cordillera Blanca de Huayhuash, the same region where American Alpine Club members operated a year before. They had a remarkable r...
McHenry’s Peak, Northeast Face. Dakers Gowans and I started on a right-facing corner up the center of the great spade-shaped buttress on the northeast face of McHenry’s Peak, heading for a thin vertical dihedral three pitches up. The dihedral and ...
Pinnacle Peak, Gros Ventre Range. On June 18, the first ascent of Pinnacle Peak was made by Jake Breitenbach, Stu Krebs, Stan Shepard, Pete Sinclair and me. For several years there had been rumors that this small peak appeared very difficult on al...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, UNROPEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount White PyramidEarly in February, 1990, ten members of the ACC Calgary Section set off to try a winter ascent of White Pyramid (3277 meters) from the north. On February 4, they left their ca...
Peak Above Khurdopin Glacier. Andrew Bradley, Richard Osborne, John DeBank, Paul Simpkin, Tony Briggs, Dr. Luke Hughes-Davis and I journeyed up the Karakoram Highway to Pasu. There we engaged 15 porters and a cook for the walk to Base Camp. From t...
Huandoy Group. On July 14 an Italian expedition led by Carlo Zonta with Francesco Santon as deputy set up Base Camp at the Llanganuco Lakes at 12,300 feet. The next day they placed Camp I at 15,750 feet at the foot of the south face of Huandoy Sur...
Pik Eight Women Climbers, west face; Pik Bayancol, southeast ridge; Pik Kazakhstan, southeast ridge. Boris Dedeshko, Gennady Durov, and Denis Urubko made the second ascent of Pik Eight Women Climbers (Pik Vosni Alpinistok or Mramornaya Stena Yuzhn...
Annapurna South. The Japanese Gamagori Alpine Club Expedition was led by Tsuneo Suzuki. They attempted 23,683-foot Annapurna South or Moditse by a new route, the southwest ridge. From Camp III at 18,375 feet, on April 26 two members reached 19,700...
Pikes Peak Atlas, by Robert M. Ormes. Boulder, Colorado: Johnson Publishing Co., 1959. 28 pages with 21 sketch maps. Price: $3.50.Few people know the Colorado Rockies as well as Bob Ormes (Author of Guide to the Colorado Mountains, Denver: Sage Bo...
AAC, New York Section. The year 1998 will be remembered for a number of significant events. In January, a group of 14 New York Section members and guests journeyed to New Zealand’s South Island for two weeks of trekking, climbing and outdoor pursu...
Ross Peak, Northeast Face Direct, Bridger Range. On June 28 Gary Skaar, Kurt Martinsen and I packed via the middle fork of Brackett Creek to this relatively unknown face, which is hidden by a lateral moraine. In the afternoon we climbed two short ...
Ruwenzori, Africa. Piero Ghiglione celebrated his 77th birthday by making the first ascent of the west face of the Punta Alexandra (16,725 feet) in the Ruwenzori group. On this climb, which took place on January 25, 1960, the Italian veteran was a...
P 8000 (“Grendel”). I returned to the Cathedral Spires with Chris and Arthur Manix, hoping to make the first ascent of a peak of 8000 feet with twin east and west summits, about one mile southwest of Augustin Peak. We waited on the Trident Glacier...
Bear Mountain, East Ridge, Chilliwacks. On August 15 Bill Van de Graaff, Marilyn Loranger, Dan Hendricks, Roger Fahy, Al Tatyrek, John Stout, and I climbed Bear Mountain’s long, ragged east ridge, joining the established route at the notch about 1...
Moses, Canyonlands National Park. A new route was put up on Moses Tower by Steve Green, Doug Snively, Jim Dunn and Kurt Rasmusson. The route was to the right of the first-ascent line, roughly up the northwest edge of the rock. The two routes meet ...