Pico del Norte, South Buttress and Gorra de Hielo, Cordillera Real. In the late spring we climbed in the Cordillera Real and made several new routes from Base Camp on the east side of Illampu. Alain Mesili, Bernard Chaux and I took three days to c...

Bridge Creek Wall, “Wet and Wild. ” In December of 1983, Matt Kerns and I climbed the waterfall that forms in the gully system to the left of Bridge Creek Wall. The approach from the Icicle Creek Road took four hours. The first pitch was 100 feet ...

Northern Andes, Bonete group. The Argentinian Mountaineering Association, to commemorate its 10th anniversary, organized an expedition to Bonete Chico, located at 27°55' S and 68045' W, in the northern extreme of the province of La Rioja. Besides ...

WEATHER-HIGH WINDS, FALL ON TO ROCKSColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn February 7, Craig Dreher (30) and Gene Williamson (30) decided to abort their winter attempt of the Keyhole Route due to high winds. As they were retreating f...

Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Mt. Otis. (See accident report) The doctor in the climbing party applied a plastic pneumatic splint to victim Henry Monroe. At 4:00 P.M. a park ranger chanced upon the accident scene. The ranger and climbers...

SLIP ON WET ROCK, BELAY FAILURE, NO HARD HAT, INEXPERIENCEColorado, McGregor SlabLate in the afternoon on July 10, 1983, Bob Gatzemeyer (29) lost control of his rappel while descending McGregor Slab, tumbled and fell free about five meters, landin...

Italian Expedition to Kulu. An Italian expedition from the Roman section of the Club Alpino Italiano climbed in the mountains north of the Parbati River in Kulu. After a week’s approach march, on May 11 they established Base Camp at 12,800 feet in...

Sickle Moon, Northwest Face Attempt, Kishtwar Himalaya. The Cumbria Himalayan Expedition, comprising A1 Morgan, Dave Robbins, Mike Rafferty, Alan Deakin, Duncan Holdsworth, Lin Rutland and me as leader, attempted the northwest face of Sickle Moon ...

First Ascents in the Behrendt Mountains and Bean Peaks, and Other Activity. In December and January, the British Antarctic Survey (BAS) Field Assistant Phil Wickens again made a number of ascents with his party in the course of their geological wo...

Mount Robson, Second Ascent of North Face. The nearly 8000-foot rise to the summit of Mount Robson from Berg Lake challenged Peter Lev, Jocelyn (Jock) Glidden and me in August, 1968. After approaching the mountain in fine weather, we climbed to th...

Arizona, Carefree Area (Near Phoenix). On 13 March, a climbing group consisting of 11 climbers, three being Arizona Mountain members were engaged in a practice climb. The climb is a short 3 pitch route consisting of a vertical crack face, an 18 to...

Gasherbrum II. Actually we were two expeditions which combined to save money. We lived much off the food of the region, particularly chapatties, which contributed to much dysentery. We placed Base Camp at 17,400 feet and Camps I, II and III at 19,...

P 5854, P 6025, P 5895 and Z2, Zanskar Range. Our expedition was composed of Gianni Calcagno, leader, Giustino Crescimbeni, Mario Pelizzaro, Stefano De Benedetti and me. From the Kargil-Padum road, we ascended the Rundum valley to Base Camp at 13,...

Switzerland, edited by Doré Ogrizek and J. G. Rufenacht for the “World in Color Series.” 273 pages, with pictorial maps and more than 200 illustrations in color, as well as monotone reproductions of old prints. New York: McGraw-Hill Book Co., 1949...

Granite Peak, North Face, Beartooth Mountains. On July 12, William Chadwick and I climbed the north face of Granite Peak (12,799 feet). The approach from the Mystic Lake hydroelectric plant took 1½ days. We bypassed Huckleberry Lake to the east an...

Yalung Kang, South Face. A Polish team was led by Tadeusz Karolczak. They had no Sherpas and a low-altitude porters’ strike delayed their arrival at the Yalung Glacier. They set up Base Camp, and Camps I and II at 5200, 6250 and 6700 meters on Sep...

In August 2003 a six-member British party comprising: Kate Boobyer, Derek and Sarah Fuller, Derek’s parents Brian and Sue Fuller, and Flenry Lickorish, climbed a total of 23 peaks on Sermersoq, the island immediately north of Nanortalik in South G...

Cascades: First Ascent of the S.W. Face of Sloan Peak. On 31 July 1948 Jack Schwabland and Fred Beckey, inquiring into possibilities on the rounded, sheer W. face of Sloan Peak, found that the lower portion of the S. face was climbable. A series o...

Gabral Valley. The Kyoto University of Education Expedition was led by Tatsuya Harada and further composed of Toshikazu Oze, Masao Horiike, Yuzuru Domiri, Kazuo Hashimoto, Kazuo Takano and Gyoichi Hidani. In early June they explored the Gabral val...

Everest Winter Attempt by Koreans, 1987. Another South Korean expedition, led by Park Young-Bae, was attempting a winter ascent of the British route on the southwest face of Mount Everest. On January 30, 1987, Tsuttin Dorje Sherpa fell to his deat...