Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Queen Maud Land, Various Ascents

Queen Maud Land, Various Ascents. In the 1996-97 season, I was involved with the following ascents. Gordon Wiltsie, Michael Graber, Rick Ridgeway, John Krakauer, Alex Lowe and I made the first ascent of Rakekniven via the Snow Petrel Wall (VI 5.10...


Accident Reports ANAM
British Columbia, Selkirks, Mt. Sir Donald

British Columbia, Selkirks, Mt. Sir Donald. On 30 July David Ingalls (20), leader, Joseph Kelsey (25), James Given (16), Kevin Bein (15) and William Robinson (14) left Illecillewaet Campground around 3 A.M. to climb the northwest ridge of Mt. Sir ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Manaslu Attempt by Czech Women

Manaslu Attempt by Czech Women. This expedition of eight women and four men was led by Dr. Margita Šterbova. They had originally planned to try the south ridge but they turned to the standard northeast ridge. They established four camps and climbe...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Yosemite, The Prow, Washington Column

The Prow, Washington Column. Call me Glen Denny. In June, I was near Dinner Ledge on the Washington Column. All day I had been watching Robbins and Mike Covington chipping away at Royal’s latest pipe-dream: a new route up the smooth face between t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Himal Chuli, Attempt from the Southeast

Himal Chuli. Attempt from the Southeast. We intended to climb Himal Chuli (25,895 feet) via the east ridge, approaching it from the Dordi Khola (south). The team consisted of Dick Jackson, Kevin Beardsley, Dr. Rick St. Onge, Jack Miller, Mike Yage...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Africa, Kenya, Mount Kenya

Mount Kenya. The Englishman Barry Cliff and the Austrians Siegfried Aeberli and Dr. Heinrich Klier made the first ascent of the difficult east face of Mount Kenya in August. They have rated this as a grade VI climb, comparable to the most difficul...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Nilgiri North

Nilgiri North. A six-man and one-woman Japanese expedition led by Kenji Sugishita climbed Nilgiri North by a new route from the Miristi Khola: the southeast ridge of P 6706 and the east ridge of the mountain itself. Base Camp was at 13,300 feet. C...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Spur Attempt

Mount Spurr Attempt. Our group was comprised of George G. Wis-well III, Brian Forbes and me. We landed on August 23 east of Mount Spurr by ski-plane at 3500 feet on the Capps Glacier. Trying to avoid the tremendous icefalls between the ridges and ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Sepu Kangri, Attempt

Sepu Kangri, Attempt. There is a range of mountains in Tibet comparable in length to the entire Swiss Alps that remains almost unknown. The eastern section of the Nyangla-Qen-Tangla Shan lies barely 300 kilometers north of the Himalayan frontier c...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine-Chilean Patagonia, Aguja Poincenot, Southeast Buttress

Aguja Poincenot, Southeast Buttress. Our expedition was composed of Graziano Bianchi, leader, Andriano Carnati, Alessio Bortoli, Massimo Colombo, Corrado Brustia, Mario Vismara, Bruno Vagletti and me. The base of the southeast buttress of the Aguj...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Ecuador, Farile Grande, El Altar Group

Fraile Grande, El Altar Group. The Italian Dr. Marino Tremonti has now completed his fourth expedition to the Altar group, two of which were in 1972. With Ferdinando Gaspard, Claudio Zardini, Armando Perron and Sergio Lorenzi, he attempted the Mon...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Malubiting North

Malubiting North. A Polish expedition led by R. Szafirski climbed the north summit of Malubiting (22,450 feet) on October 8. The central peak (23,920 feet) and the west peak (24,450 feet) still remain unclimbed.Günter Oskar Dyhrenfurth


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Argentine Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Torre Egger, Italian Route/Titanic Variation

Torre Egger, Italian Route/Titanic Variation. On December 31, Michael Mayr (“Much”) and I made our first trip to Norwegian Camp. We originally intended to attempt an alpine-style ascent of Badlands, but after inspecting it decided to look at the n...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, U.S., Wyoming, Tetons, Northwest Ridge of Teewinot, September 7, 1954

Northwest Ridge of Teewinot, September 7,1954. John Fonda, Jean Fonda, Don Decker, and Marty Benham followed this long ridge all the way from Cascade Canyon except for a detour in the middle to avoid some smooth sections. The route brings one out ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Steele Attempt

Mount Steele Attempt. Because the upper Chitina was too crevassed for a fixed-wing aircraft, we planned to land on the Walsh-Steele col. From there we would carry camps up the long, 10-mile southeast ridge of Mount Steele, traverse Steele and clim...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kande Hiunchuli and Patrasi Himal Attempts

Kande Hiunchuli and Patrasi Himal Attempts. Swiss and French led by Patrick Marendaz tried to climb Kande Hiunchuli by its northwest ridge but got only to 5600 meters on November 5. They were also turned back at 6000 meters on the south ridge of P...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Himlung Himal, Further Details of the Climb

Himlung Himal, Further Details of the Climb. Our expedition was composed of Osamu Hanai, Takeshi Yamaguchi, Minoru Masuda, Akio Koizumi, Norio Kawai, Hideaki Toda, Osamu Shimuzu, Kazuo Higuchi, Eiji Ishibashi, Ki- yokatsu Saito and me as leader. O...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Southwestern China, Syn Qing Feng or Buka Daban

Syn Qing Feng or Buka Daban. The members of our expedition were Toshiaki Sakaue, Takashi Masuda, Kazuyoshi Nakata, Akira Hayashimoto, Yoichiro Shirota and I as leader. On May 4, we placed Base Camp at 4900 meters and on May 7, Advance Base at 5600...


Notes AAJ
Activities of Members

Members are urged to send in a record of their climbs, together with any new information relative to the regions visited.Cary W. Bok climbed in the Alps last summer, ascending the Mönch; also Piz Bernina and others in the Engadine district.Helen I...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Real, Various Ascents

Cordillera Real, Various Ascents. In May and June, on an expedition to Bolivia, several country first ascents were achieved. They included: the first American and U.K. ascent of Janco Laya (5545m), May 22. The (possible) first American and UK asce...