Appalachian Mountain Club. Participation in all phases of the club’s activities was never greater than in 1965. It has occasioned increased leadership training for all of our outdoor programming in all seasons during recent years. Highlighting thi...
Rurec and Other Ascents. Our expedition of the National Polytechnical School, Quito, took place between July 13 and 27. Our primary objective was Huantsán by the Rajucolta valley, but the unfavorable snow conditions of the season of 1984 forced us...
Loinbo Kangri, Ascent, and Qungmo Kangri, Ascent. It was reported that a joint Chinese-Korean expedition managed to make the first ascent of Qungmo Kangri (7048m) in the Trans Himalaya north of the Manaslu-Annapurna region of Nepal. On October 7, ...
Cerro Norte. Italians Casimiro Ferrari and G. Maresi made the second ascent of Cerro Norte (2950 meters, 9679 feet) by a new route, the east- northeast buttress on December 31, 1985 and January 1, 1986. The first part was rock which led to a snow ...
Illiniza and Chimborazo. A large party of German and Austrian mountaineers, members of a European conducted tour, ascended the twin peaks of Illiniza (17,278 and 16,700 feet) in mid-November. They were accompanied by several Ecuadorian climbers of...
Variation on the Grand Teton. During August 1948 Dick Pow- nall and Art Gilkey established a new route on the Grand Teton. This route branches off from the regular (Owen) route at the upper saddle; it begins with a traverse to the S. on a rather b...
Attempt on K6. An Italian expedition, led by Luigi Barbuscia and composed of Guido Machetto, Carlo Leone, Nicola Marcantante, Domencico Alessandri and Dr. Bruno Marsilli attempted to climb K6 (23,890 feet) by a route which they felt might be possi...
ACUTE MOUNTAIN SICKNESS, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, HYPOTHERMIAWashington, Mount RainierCraig Dupler (35) and three companions left Camp Muir at 0300 on September 29, 1985, for a summit climb of Mount Rainier by way of the Disappointment Cleaver-Emmons...
Argentine PatagoniaChalten MassifTorre Egger and Fitz Roy, Tonta Suerte. Tim O’Neill and Nathan Martin made an alpine-style ascent of the 3,300-foot Torre Egger via a combination of routes (VI 5.10 A2 WI6) in 59 hours from the glacier. They then e...
Nevado Cara Cruz, Cordillera Vilcabamba. Sue Tatum of Canada and I climbed this peak (17,123 feet) by its east ridge and descended its northwest ridge on May 15, 1970. We were on a short excursion from the pass (Hacienda Chamacaya) on the Cuzco-Li...
Hubbard and Kaskawulsh Glaciers Traverse and Ascent of a Tower. Markus Tischer, Christian Weimar, Dr. Helmuth Kelleter and I were flown from Yakutat to the Hubbard Glacier below Mount Foresta on August 23. We continued in glorious weather up the H...
North Face of the East Ridge of Grand Teton, August 9-10, 1953. This variation, made by Harold Gudro and Jim Shane, required a bivouac and apparently was quite difficult since over 50 pitons were used.
Mount Steele Attempt. Gary Zieve, Dave Schaus, Bob Plaag and I were landed at 7500 feet on the Steele Glacier and attained 14,000 feet on the east ridge without incident. A late-August snowstorm halted our climb for three days, during which time Z...
Mount Steele. In June, Bertrand Poinsonnet, James Larabee, Steve Tyler and I repeated the 1937 Washburn-Bates route which leads from the Dennis Glacier to the broad ridge between Steele and Lucania. We skied 13 kilometers from our landing east of ...
K2, Abruzzi Ridge. Our expedition had 19 members. An advance party of four accompanied 290 porters and got to Base Camp on June 20. The main party reached Base Camp on June 23. We set up Advance Base at 5300 meters on June 25. We established Camps...
Simian Outing Society. The club began the fall season with a membership drive, netting several neophytes who were initiated into the realm of rock at Portland Arch, Indiana, and Devils Lake, Wisconsin. There is considerable concern over the possib...
Fairweather, Southeast Ridge. Joe Lackey and I were landed in beautiful weather on the Fairweather Glacier. After a false start, we started up on April 21. In five days of windy mornings and sunny afternoons, we got to the top on April 25. We made...
SLIP ON ROCK, FATIGUEBritish Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Terminal PeakOn October 7, 1991, the last day of a seven-day mountaineering course, a group from the University of Calgary climbed Terminal Peak, and were descending over broken ground cove...
Dhaulagiri Autumn Ascents and Attempts. There were a number of expeditions in the post-monsoon season on Dhaulagiri’s northeast ridge. Members of an expedition led by Karl Kobler completed the 42nd ascent when Swiss Kobler, Hans Ruedi Roesti, Pete...
Point 4,400m above the Trango Glacier, first ascent (Sadu). A few days after their climb on Eternal Flame, Antoine and Sandrine de Choudens set off on July 20 for what they hoped would prove a pleasant rock climb on one of the small buttresses abo...