AVALANCHEBritish Columbia, Coast Mountains, Hudson Bay MountainDuring a training exercise around 1700 on November 27, 1991, a six-man Search and Rescue team was struck by an avalanche. Three of them were carried about 35 meters and buried, while o...
Churen Himal West and Central Summits. Churen Himal has three summits, all of which are given with the same altitude, 7371 meters or 24,184 feet. A Korean expedition of seven climbed the southeast face, which gives access to the central and west p...
Masherbrum attempt, Charakusa Valley exploration, Haji Brakk first ascent. With Slovenians, Marko Prezelj and Matic Jost, I arrived at base camp below Masherbrum (7,855m) on May 31, after experiencing a difficult approach due to winter snow. We pu...
Das Berner Oberland, by Adolph Schaer-Ris. 4to., 130 pages, including 60 pages of photo-illustrations, together with sketches by Victor Surbek. Berne: Urs Graf-Verlag, 1952. Price, Sw. Fr. 19.35.This is the seventh in the series, reviewed earlier,...
A noshah, Ishmurgh Valley. Bram van Veelen, Richard Hauer, Frits Iordens, Frank Boesveldt, Jan van Wulfften Palthe and Herman Plugge as leader, all members of the Royal Dutch Alpine Club, visited the Hindu Kush. The government coup resulting in th...
Himlung Himal, Probable First Ascent. Himlung Himal (7126 meters, 23,380 feet) lies northwest of Manaslu near the Tibetan border. This autumn, a 14-member Japanese expedition led by Yukio Niwa was the tenth to go to Himlung. Of their nine predeces...
Batura II (7,762m), south face, attempt; probable second ascent of Ya Chish, probable fourth ascent of Batokshi. Batura II is one of the highest unclimbed points in the Karakoram, though its south face was attempted by a German team in 2002. They ...
Cerro Torre, West-East Traverse. Frenchmen David Autheman, Fred Valet and Patrick Pessi became the first climbers to complete the traverse of Cerro Torre. From December 2 to 5, 1994, they repeated the difficult Ferrari route. Large sections of ver...
AVALANCHEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount MoranOn July 28, 1993, PM (male—42), MG (female—37), and JG (male— 38) attempted to climb the Skillet Glacier route on Mount Moran.About 1245, they were about 200 feet below the top of the snow to...
New Mexico, Organ Mountains—Rabbit Ears Area—On February 22, William Martin (24) and Ronald Hahn (25) left their car at 5:00 A.M. and hiked upward about 2000 feet to the base of a small pinnacle at approximately 7500 feet which was to be the first...
FALL ON ROCK, FATIGUE, LATE STARTColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Hallett PeakOn July 15, at 1030, Robert Gould (53) and Kenneth Brenneman (55) left Bear Lake trailhead to do an ascent of the Northcutt-Carter Route on Hallett Peak. Upon arr...
Shisha Pangma, Post-Monsoon. As more and more expeditions are attracted to Shisha Pangma, it seems, strangely enough, to be more difficult to get details on all of them. We are grateful to South Tirolean Hermann Tauber for information of his exped...
Ambush Peak, East Face, and Other Ascents. The Wind River Mountains of Wyoming harbor many unclimbed walls and much beautiful scenery. On August 28, Chuck Calef and I established a new route on the ca. 2,000-foot east face of Ambush Peak. The year...
Cho Oyu Attempt. A joint expedition of 29 Japanese and 12 Nepalese was led by Takeshi Komatsu. They first attempted the east face but soon abandoned it because of daily big avalanches and switched to the south ridge. They occupied five camps on th...
Puscanturpa Norte, North Buttress. In June, I climbed solo the north buttress of Puscanturpa Norte. When I climbed it I had thought it was a first ascent but I later read that it had been done by Italians in 1981. (See A.A.J., 1983, pages 196-7.) ...
Peaks Along the Cascade-Paintbrush Divide, Tetons. Early on June 21 Bob and Peggy West, Bob Keyes, and Bill Buckingham left Jenny Lake for unclimbed Peak 11,102. From Hanging Canyon we climbed steep snow slopes to the summit of the Jaw. Since a di...
Masherbrum I, East-Southeast Ridge, Attempt. It was reported that Peter Cole led a four-man American team (Cole, Gary Kuehn, Erik Olsen, Scott Porter) that reached a high point of 6050 meters. At Camp II (5650 m) on June 20, below a seemingly prot...
Chimborazo, South-Southwest Face. Mike Woolridge and I visited the Ecuadorian Andes for two-and-a-half weeks over Christmas. The weather was generally poor. We ascended Illiniza Norte, Carihairazo Este and over December 30 and 31, 1984, a new 5000...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO PLACE PROTECTIONNew York, ShawangunksOn August 15, 1982, a male climber (25) fell while leading the second pitch of Dennis (5.5). The climber had been in the sport for about five months, leading up to 5.6 and seconding to ...
Tupungato, Southeast Face, 1986. Milan Romih and I approached the southeast face of Tupungato via Tupungato village and Fraile in four days. We bivouacked at 4800 meters on February 1, 1986 and climbed to the summit (6550 meters, 21,490 feet) on F...