Pik Pogrebetskogo, northwest face. From August 10-16 the Krasnoyarsk team of Vladimir Arhipov, Sergey Cherezov, Vladimir Gunko, Andrey Litvinov, Alexander Mikhalitsin (leader), and Alexander Yanushevich made the long-awaited first ascent of the no...
The West Face, by Guido Magnone; with a preface by Maurice Herzog. Translated by J. F. Burke. London: Museum Press, 1955. 166 pages; 15 photographs, 3 diagrams. Price 15 s.Guido Magnone and his companions have once again illustrated that man has s...
Mount Hayes, South Summit. On April 17 we were flown to Base Camp on the Susitna Glacier at 7100 feet. On April 22 we placed Camp I at 8700 feet, but were pinned down by weather for the next four days. On April 29 we left Camp I and climbed the so...
Mount McKinley and Mount Foraker Massifs, First Winter Circumnavigation. Daryl Miller and Mark Stasik crossed four remote passes, traveling over 350 miles on frozen rivers, forests, and muskeg. More than half of their 45-day trip were -25°F or col...
True Summit: What Really Happened on the Legendary Ascent of Annapurna. David Roberts. New York: Simon and Schuster. 229 pages. $24.00. True summit is an analysis of the controversy that erupted in France in recent years over alternate views of t...
During the mid-morning of January 17, while two climbers were top roping The Shroud ice climb (WI3-4), an avalanche from above the climb flowed through the area. The climber on the ice at the time was generally protected just below the top of th...
Gasherbrum II Attempts. Aside from the American attempt described below, there were two other unsuccessful tries to climb Gasherbrum II. A Spanish expedition led by Pedro Fernández and Koreans led by Kim Hong-Ki did not reach the summit.
Dunagiri, Southeast Face. Our expedition consisted of two members: Joseph Trasker and me. After a two-week wait in New Delhi, the Indian Mountaineering Foundation supplied us with a liaison officer, who returned to New Delhi after completing only ...
Pangi Valley, Shib Shankar. A five-member Japanese expedition, led by Shoji Sakamoto, applied to the IMF for a permit to climb Shib Shankar (a.k.a. Sersank), a 6,000m peak immediately south of 5,239m Sersank Pass at the head of the Lugai Nala (val...
California, Yosemite (3)—On May 28, 1955 a party consisting of six experienced climbers were climbing Washington Column. The rock was dry, weather clear, and the party was properly equipped and led. Helen Rycke- vorsel (34) was on second of three ...
Shisha Pangma Ascent and Tragedy. Our Austro-German party was composed of Germans Günther Semmler, Werner Braun, Frau Ottilie Dörrich, Dieter Porsche, Werner Meichsner, Karl Heinz and Helmut Thiele, Johann Obermaier, Dr. Karl-Wilhelm Dehn, Wilhelm...
Hungabee, Winter Ascent. On December 20, C. Locke, C. Scott and I skied to the A.C.C. hut at Lake O’Hara to spend the night. The following morning we set out for Opabin Pass, where we cached our skis, intending to climb as high as possible and to ...
Gasherbrum II. An American-Polish-Scottish party climbed Gasherbrum II as appears below. On July 22, a Japanese expedition led by Yasunari Yamashita placed on the summit Iwao Ogasawara, Kazushige Obayashi, Masamichi Sato, Taro Tanigawa, Hiroshi Na...
Kabru North, probable third ascent. It is reported that on April 27 an Indian expedition from the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, under its acting principal K.S. Dhami climbed Kabru North (7,338m). They established base camp at Dzongri (4,500m...
Fitz Roy, Royal Flush. The climb was done in January/February. I was accompanied by German climbers Bernd Arnold, Jorg Gershel and Lutz Richter. We saw this unique line on the east pillar (1300-1400 meters) when we tried El Corazon in December 199...
Climbing in China and Tibet was compromised in 2008 by the Beijing Olympics and a major earthquake in Sichuan. Writing in December Elizabeth Hawley noted, “Plans for expeditions in Tibet continue to face uncertainty, despite the end of the Olympic...
Deception, North Face, and Mt. Brooks, Northwest Ridge. In late July, Rick Studley and I scampered into the Muldrow via Glacier Creek. We climbed a low angle arête on the north face of Deception Peak and descended the east ridge back to base camp ...
AAC, Midwest Section. The following summarizes the Section's 2002 activities. In February the Midwest Section represented the AAC at the annual International Adventure Travel and Outdoor Show on Navy Pier in Chicago. This was a fine opportunity fo...
Mt. Foraker, Sultana Ridge, Notable Ascent. Japanese soloist Masatoshi Kuriaki attempted a winter ascent of Mt. Foraker. He spent 57 days on the Sultana Ridge before attaining the summit, which was achieved after the official end of winter. Furthe...
Alpine rock in the Darran Mountains summary. After a quiet winter, some sustained periods of fine weather and a group of motivated climbers brought a surge of activity to the Darrans this summer.Craig Jefferies and Martin Wightman made the most no...