Tilicho. A 14-person expedition sponsored by the German Alpine Club’s Mountain and Ski School was led by Günther Härter. They approached in 14 days from Dumre up the Marsyandi valley to Base Camp on the west shore of Tilicho Lake at 16,050 feet, r...

Baldwin Glacier: Peaks 10,460', 9,450', 10,142', 9,100'. On June 14 Marcus Collins, Phil Fortier, Greg Mueller, and I flew in to the upper Baldwin Glacier with Ultima Thule Outfitters pilot Paul Claus. With our base camp located at 8,000 feet, we ...

Tazlina Glacier Climbs, Chugach. Dr. Russell Batt, Gary James, Charles Marchand and I as leader climbed four peaks on the divide between the Columbia and Tazlina Glaciers. On June 22 we ascended Tazlina Tower (8325 feet) by its west face and south...

British Columbia Mountaineering Club. With the club’s having finally completed the Guidebook to the Coastal Ranges of British Columbia, members went a long way toward making it obsolete by putting up a variety of new routes and ascending some 40 n...

Yerupajá, Sarapo and other Peaks; Siula Grande West Face Attempt, Cordillera Huayhuash. Piet-Jan Bindt, Ger Friele, Egbert Veen and I set up Base Camp near Jahuacocha on July 1. After acclimatization climbs on Cerro México and Rasac’s east face, f...

Jumo Ganker, Attempt. It was reported that Huw Davies and John Town (U.K.) attempted Jomo Ganker (7048m) in the Western Nyanchen Tangla Range in Central Tibet in late July and August. They were hoping to make the first western ascent of the mounta...

Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre and Aguja Guillaumet. Several ascents in late 1985 and early 1986 were not reported in A.A.J., 1986. Frenchman Yves Astier soloed the American route on Fitz Roy in 12 hours on December 29, 1985. With J. M. Boucansaud he climb...

Sangay and Monja Chiquita and Taburnáculo, El Altar Group. Our group was led by Erich Griessl and composed of Günter Hell, Rudolf Lettenmeier, Sepp Rieser and me. We left Munich on December 26, 1970. From Quito we reached the Indian town of Alao b...

Grand Traverse. During July 1950 Mike Brewer and Dick Pownall completed the longest traverse ever made in the Tetons. They started at midnight from Jenny Lake and ascended five major peaks, in this order: Nez Perce, Cloudveil Dome, S. Teton, Middl...

Nanga Parbat. A 13-man Czechoslovakian expedition led by Ivan Galfy attempted to climb Nanga Parbat by the Rakhiot side but failed slightly above 22,000 feet because of bad weather.

FALLING ROCK, FALL ON ROCKWashington, Klockman RockRescue teams located the bodies of Larry Cornwell (34) and John Norris (34) at the base of Klockman Rock on the northeast side of the main rock formation at approximately 0430 on September 29, 198...

Cerro Torre, east face. In late October and early November Italians Paolo Calza, Mauro Giovanazzi, Walter Gobbi, and Ermanno Salvaterra attempted a new route on the east face of this peak, via a completely independent line. After fixing the first ...

Plateriyayoq and Palanganayoq Groups, Cordillera Urubamba. Seven members of the London University Graduate Mountaineering Club (M. C. Avis, F. W. Barnes, D. C. Lindsey, M. Mason, W. A. Towlson, R. J. Woollett and I) spent ten days climbing from Ba...

Mount Steele. On June 20, Andy Williams airlifted Dave Custer, Paul Jenson, Peter Green and me onto the west fork of the Donjek Glacier at 2950 meters, south of Mount Walsh. Relaying loads during lulls in the generally stormy weather, we gained th...

Direct North Face of Teewinot, August 24, 1948. Dick Emerson and Pete Owen made the first ascent of this spectacular route. Approximately 150 vertical feet from the summit a unique cave was discovered which forms a passageway from the north to the...

Mount Steele Attempt. In July and August, Jeff Elphinston, Kipp Drummond and I attempted the east ridge of Mount Steele (16,644 feet). We spent 14 days walking from the Alaska Highway up the west bank of the Donjek River and the Steele valley to B...

Mount Manitoba, First Ascent. During the 1967 Canadian Centennial Celebration, a range of unclimbed peaks was found in Kluane National Park and given the name of the Centennial Range. Twelve were named after the provinces and territories of Canada...

Broad Peak, Gasherbrum II and Southeast Face of K2. Our expedition consisted of Viktor Grošelj, leader, Bogdan Bišcak, Rado Fabjan, Žare Gugej, Tomaš Jamnik, Dušan Jelincic, Silvo Karo, Pavle Kozjek, Nico Kregar, Matevš Lenarcic, Mojmir Štangelj, ...

Stanford Alpine Club. Our main emphasis during the winter was on mountaineering. An easy trip to Desolation Valley south of Lake Tahoe to orient newcomers was followed by more difficult trips to Mount Morrison, Split Mountain, and Mount Shasta. No...

Burkett, Southeast Face. In early May, Greg Collum and I helicoptered from Petersburg to Base Camp at 4200 feet on the Burkett Glacier. We immediately made an attempt at a fast ascent of Burkett, but we were quickly shot down by a storm. For the n...