Navajolands. Spinnaker Tower was climbed free at 5.11+ by Stevie Haston and Laurence Guault. Lost Coyote Tower, a 250-foot spire located southeast of Round Rock near Rock Point, Arizona, was climbed by Fred Beckey and Dave Pollari (III 5.9 A2).
INADEQUATE PROTECTION—ICE TOOL CAME OUT, FATIGUE, EXCEEDING ABILITIESAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Ghost River, “This House of Sky” FallsAbout 1600 on January 28, after several satisfactory hours of ice climbing, G. R. and R. P. were attempting a pitc...
Mamostong Kangri. This high peak continues to attract climbing teams. An Indian ladies’ team, led by Bachendri Pal, climbed the normal route from the Mamostong Glacier, crossing the 5885-meter Mamostong col and up the east ridge. The summit (7516 ...
Stanford. The Stanford Alpine Club has 50 members, half of whom are active. Four week ends a year, the club sponsors climbs in Yosemite Valley—a rock climber’s paradise. Several week ends are spent at Pinnacles National Monument or Castle Crags St...
A.A.C., Oregon Section. 1986 was an eventful year for the Oregon Section, although we had few actual climbs to report. Our most time-consuming activity was the continuing and almost successful effort to have Mount Saint Helens opened to climbers. ...
Nanga Purbat, Diamir Face, Polish-American Expedition. Our team was made up of Poles Piotr Pustelnik, leader, Józef Gozdzik, Marek Grochowski, Leszek Sikora, Dr. Piotr Jedlikowski and me from the United States. After difficult and sometimes unplea...
Josef Pollinger, of St. Niklaus, died in 1943 at the age of 70. One of the great guides of all time, he was the last survivor of Edward Whymper’s expedition to the Rockies in 1901. Mt. Pollinger is named for him. His first ascents in that season w...
La Connaissance de la Montague, by Paul Payot. 127 pages. Bonneville: Imprimerie Plancher, 1944.This little volume was published as a compendium of the instruction material used at the Centre á l’École des Cadres. Although directed principally at ...
Antarctic Peninsula, Various Ascents. It was reported that in February, 1997, Greg Mortimer led an Australian team that made a number of ascents from their boat, Professor Molchanov. The team climbed the central peak of Ronge Island; a 600-meter p...
FALL ON SNOW—UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, CLIMBING ALONE, HASTE—RESULTING IN WEARING ROCK SHOES ON SNOWWashington, Mount StuartAfter summiting Mount Baker in the early morning of July 9,1 drove about 3/4 of the way to Seattle and got a hotel room to dry...
Pucajirca Tragedy. A nine-man expedition from Bergamo was led by Bruno Berlendis. On July 14 five of the members were about 100 meters below the top of the west face of the highest of the Pucajircas when a huge avalanche swept them off. Rocco Berl...
Prospectors Mountain, Northeast Face Direct, Previously Underreported. The Northeast Face Direct route (IV 5.11a Al) went up in ground-up traditional style over two days in September, 1999, with only two bolts placed (on lead). The climbing is var...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INADEQUATE BELAYNew Hampshire, Whitehorse Ledge, Standard RouteIn July, a father of unknown age and his 14-year-old son were climbing Standard Route on Whitehorse Ledge. The father was leading the crux layback ...
Kula Kangri Region, 1993. A seven-member climbing-and-scientific French party, including geologist Arnaud Pêcher, visited the Kula Kangri area in southern Tibet on the Border with Bhutan. Base Camp was at 4450 meters below the northern foot of Kul...
Bunnell Point—Northwest Face. This wide, smooth face rises above the Merced River at the east end of Little Yosemite Valley. It was first attempted in 1975 by Mead Hargis and J.P. de St. Croix. Robb Dellinger and I returned and completed their rou...
Mount Redoubt. Bob Gerhard, Larry Van Slyke, Mark Skok and I had planned a winter ascent of Mount Redoubt (3108 meters, 10,197 feet), but bad weather and other commitments delayed our departure for a month. On April 4 Lowell Thomas, Jr. landed us ...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, CLIMBING UNROPEDBritish Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Bugaboo GlacierAt 8 A.M., on July 21, 1982, Keven Donohoe (33), Jerry Murphy and Dan Prows were ascending Bugaboo Glacier, southwest of Snowpatch Spire, at an elevation of ab...
FROSTBITE-DEHYDRATION AND INADEQUATE CLOTHING, POORPHYSICAL CONDITIONAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressAbout 2100 on May 18, climbers at the 14,200-foot camp witnessed Ron Morrow (51) take a fall on the fixed lines around 16,000 feet. Morrow ma...
Climbs in the “Skykomish Alps.” The peaks south and east of the town of Index offer a variety of climbing opportunites on steep rock between 3000 and 6000 feet in elevation. All share the same kind of rock, a unique metamorphosed volcanic, which t...
FALL ON ICEAlberta, Banff National Park, Five Mile Creek, Mount Cory, DumberOn January 19, D.B. and G.H. were top-roping an ice climb known as “Dumber” above Five Mile Creek on the east slopes of Mount Cory. While attempting to step up on his cram...