Thunder Mountain (Peak 10,920'), South Face, Peak 11,200', South Face, and The Moose’s Tooth, Southwest Face, Attempt. Jim Hall, Paul Ramsden and I flew into our base camp on the Tokositna Glacier below the south face of Thunder Mountain on May 5....
AAC, North Central Section. The North Central Section continues to progress toward more communication, camaraderie, and interaction with the Club. Major projects for 2002 included further work on the Section Web site, clean-up days at two areas, a...
Mt. Foraker, South Face. New Englanders Steve Larson and Joe TerraVecchia established a new route, the South Face (Alaska Grade 6, 9,400'), on Mount Foraker (17,400') from June 4-20. The route ascended the 3,500-foot diamond-shaped wall between th...
Mt. Aspiring region summary. In terms of new route activity it has been a relatively quiet year for the Aspiring region. However, the fact that new route potential still exists was clearly illustrated when on the same day this summer two parties c...
Saffron Peak, 10,018 ft. First ascent, July 27. E. Cromwell, J. M. Thorington, P. Kaufmann. From camp at the head of Dutch Creek by way of low, timbered saddle on south side of subsidiary east peak. The south arête of the main peak is attained and...
Castle Rock, Dreadful Direct Route. This new route completed on September 14 by Pat Callis and me begins on Loggers Ledge between the Angel Crack and Damnation Chimney. From there it continues in a straight line to the top, starting off with 150 f...
Glacier de France Region, Schweizerland, East Greenland. Our expedition was flown by helicopter from Angmagssalik to Base Camp at the junction of the Pourquoi Pas Glacier and the Glacier de France at 66°38'N, 36°30'W. We divided into three groups....
California, Yosemite National Park (1) Lost Arrow—On March 19, weather was excellent. Gerald Dixon (24) and Irving Smith (17) hiked to the Valley rim starting at 5:00 a.m. They were accompanied by Merle Alley (who had made the climb previously) wh...
Alpamayo and attempt on Chopicalqui. John Ricker, leader, and Lisle Irwin, both Canadians, Bruce Jenkinson, Gerald Holdsworth, and Nick von Tunzelmann, New Zealanders, and David Drake, English, traveled by bus on the newly opened road to Pomabamba...
Alaska Alpine Club. The chief accomplishment of the club’s 1962 activities was the April ascent by a six-man party of Mount McKinley via Karsten’s Ridge. The group included Keith Jones, leader, Paul Dix, Howie Kantner, Garry Kenwood, Jim Mack, and...
Nightmare Rock, Traumatic Experience Route. This direct ascent of Nightmare Rock, close to the Squamish highway, was completed in late November by Leif Patterson, Eric Bjornstad and me. There was an interesting piton start up an overhang and then ...
Tukuche Peak. The Nagai Alpine Club of Japan Expedition to Tukuche Peak was led by Teruo Kurosawa and had Kensaku Takeda as climbing leader. They attempted in the post-monsoon season an all new route up the southeast ridge from the Kali Kandaki va...
Lamaire Channel, Various Ascents. Greg Landreth and Keri Pashuk, with their boat Northanger, were active again in the Antarctic Peninsula, making ascents of a number of peaks with their climbing guests Rich Prohaska and Jia Condon. In late January...
Soviet-American Exchange on Mount McKinley. In the spring of 1986 the Soviet-American Climbing Exchange resumed. Five of the ten members of the Soviet team had been members of the Soviet-American expedition which climbed Pik Pobedy in 1985. (See A...
British Columbia, Selkirks, Mt. Sir Donald. On 29 July Douglas Barre and Michael Swayne had completed an ascent of Sir Donald and were descending via the usual route to the Vaux glacier. A falling rock struck Barre in the head and he was killed.So...
Pucahirca Central, Cordillera Blanca. The Torino section of the Club Alpino Italiano sent an expedition to Pucahirca, which had defeated the efforts of another Italian group from Bergamo in 1960. The party was led by Giuseppe Dionisi and was compo...
Manaslu Attempt. Unfortunately we were unable to climb Manaslu by the normal northeast-face route. We had originally hoped to make the ascent on skis, but the conditions were so bad that only Karl Hub took his skis to 22,300 feet. The members of t...
“White Elephant”, Southwest Face, Joshua Tree National Monument. With some probing we found a long face, almost four pitches, in a large formation east of the main campground, which we dubbed the “White Elephant”. The ascent was made on February 7...
Manaslu North II. A Czechoslovakian expedition led by Vladimir Krupicka climbed Manaslu North II by its north ridge. They reported that there are two north peaks and that they climbed the second one of 7157 meters or 23,480 feet. Base Camp at 13,8...
Rocher du Midi, Massif de la Chartreuse, France. From June 8 to 10, Gary Hemming, with the Scot Stewart Fulton, made a new route of extreme difficulty to the right of the French route on the east face of the Rocher du Midi.