The American Alpine Club and the Museum IdeaJ. Monroe ThoringtonIn the Presidential Address of 1941, the present writer offered as one of the Club’s objectives the furtherance of the Museum Idea, which might be made possible by “quarters in New Yo...
Glaciers in the Pacific Northwest. The advance of many glaciers in the Pacific Northwest is continuing. This year it was necessary to alter our route to the Coleman Glacier measurement-stations because advancing ice discharging over some cliffs, w...
SLIP ON ROCK, RAPPEL ERROR - POOR TECHNIQUE, INADEQUATE INSTRUCTION AND SUPERVISIONVirginia, Hidden RocksOn September 11, guides were managing a rappel at the top of the route Snowblower. A climber became nervous stepping over the edge, slipped to...
Peak 5,200m, the Partition, to subsummit. During the summer of 2007, Luisa Giles (British, 25), Sarah Hart (Canadian, 27), and I (Canadian, 28) established a 900-meter free climb in the Karakoram. The route is on a possibly unclimbed 5,200m granit...
The Mountains of My Life. Walter Bonatti. Translated and edited, with an additional CHAPTER, BY ROBERT MARSHALL. NEW YORK: MODERN LIBRARY, 2001. 443 PAGES. $14.95.Was ever a great climber’s life so rich in the bright sunshine of achievement and in...
FALL/SLIP ON SNOW AND LOSS OF CONTROL IN A VOLUNTARY GLISSADE—Washington, Mt. Baker. I am putting these words on paper the day after a more than 1,000 foot plunge down the northwest face of North Twin Sister, between Welcome and Acme, near Mt. Bak...
From March 9 to 22 Indians Anindya Mukherjee and Thendup Sherpa made the first upstream trek along the Ronggyaong and Rukel River systems, leaving the Teesta River at Sanklang, reaching the lower Talung Glacier southeast of Kangchenjunga, and cros...
Colorado Climbs, 1981. A very warm winter led to a virtual explosion of rock-climbing activity in many of the more popular areas of Colorado, but the lack of snow and sufficient cold weather also greatly reduced that on ice. Nevertheless, a few wi...
Colorado, Boulder, First Flatiron—On March 14, Henry Case (19), Anthony Christensen (20), and Melvin McKnight (18), were climbing on the first Flatiron. The accident occurred when Henry Case was 280 feet above the base of the face. His belayer was...
Torre del Norte, British and Chilean Ascent. On January 12 with the British climber Martin Chester, I climbed the Monzino Route (400 meters, eight pitches, VI/AO) in three and a half hours.Pablo Besser J., Club Aleman Andino
Appalachian Mountain Club, 1947. The Appalachian Mountain Club sponsored the usual number of climbing trips during the past year. Many ski excursions were run during the winter, and also a winter climbing trip was held for a week in the Waterville...
Mt. Moran, Northeast Ridge, First Descent. On May 14, I completed the first descent of Mount Moran’s classic northeast ridge, solo and on a snowboard. Hans Johnstone, Rob Haggart and I attempted the route in February but were forced to retreat due...
Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1987. For the second year in a row, a new record was set for the number of mountaineers attempting to climb Mount McKinley. Despite the increase in attempts, extended periods of poor weathe...
Numbur. A French expedition climbed Numbur by the standard southwest ridge and also carried out physiological research. They established a supply dump between Base Camp and Camp I and two high camps. A total of five of the ten French and a Sherpa ...
Chacraraju. A French expedition led by René Desmaison made a new route on Chacraraju in 1983 just to the right of the Bouchard route. They were seven days on the face and bivouacked six nights. The summit was reached by Michel Arizzi, Xavier Chapp...
Cathedral Wall, Sublime Buttress. In May Ryan Jennings and I completed the first free ascent of an unreported route we had established five years earlier on the Cathedral Wall. Climbing the tallest, cleanest piece of Cathedral Wall, this should pr...
FALL ON SNOW – FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONSWashington, North Cascades National Park, Mount ShuksanOn September 19, a group of six Seattle Mountaineers were descending the “Winnie’s Slide” section of the Fisher Chimney route on Mount Shuksan when one mem...
The Schoolhouse, East Ridge. Bill Buckingham, Karl Ross, and Walter Grove on June 17 made a new route on this pinnacle from the east. After the first pitch on the ridge, the second turned out to a pleasant jam- crack which led to the platform just...
Lobsang Spire, Attempt. Two hundred meters of hard technical climbing denied a multinational group of young climbers the second ascent of Lobsang Spire (5700 m). The group leader, James Howel (24) from Britain, and his team attempted the south fac...
Cayambe and El Obispo, North Face, 1984. The French Alpine Club’s journal La Montagne reports that on January 10, 1984 Frenchmen H. Ayasse and P. Chevalier ascended the north side of Cayambe (5789 meters, 18,993 feet) on skis. Another Frenchman, G...