Climbs near Redfish Lake, Sawtooth Range. About 2½ miles from the end of Redfish Lake Julie Brugger and I found a dihedral on the east end of a slab north of the trail. The climbing reminded me of Glacier Point Apron. All six pitches were aestheti...
Yalung Kang. Our plan was to climb both Yalung Kang and Annapurna during the same stay in Nepal. For Yalung Kang our team was composed of Laurence de la Ferrière, Jean Coudray, Gérard Bretin, Anselme Baud, Jacky Pêche and me as leader. We wanted t...
Sermersoq Island, southwest face of The Needle. In 2002 French climbers, Pierre Mayet, Marrhieu Noury and Marie Ponson climbed a new route on the Needle (which they referred to as the Sermersoq Dibona, after its resemblance to the famous granite a...
Cascades: First Ascent of the N. Face of Mt. Baker. No route on Mt. Baker between the Cockscomb on the N. E. ridge and the Roman Wall on the W. side had been ascended prior to 7 August 1948, when Fred Beckey, Ralph Widrig and Dick Widrig scaled a ...
Falak Sar, Swat-Kohistan. A Japanese expedition from Yamaguchi University was composed of Yoshiyuki Nagahiro and Toshiyuki Akiyama. After traveling by car from Peshawar through Saidu Sharif, capital of Swat, to Matiltan, they continued on and head...
Everest Winter Attempt. The six-man Korean expedition which attempted the South Col route on Everest was led by On In-Hwan. They set up Base Camp, Camps I, II, III and IV at 5300, 5500, 6500, 7400 and 8000 meters during December. Neo Young-Ho and ...
Aconcagua. On February 13, 1973, we reached the summit of Cerro Aconcagua via the standard route. The team was unusual in that almost half its members were women: Susan Condon, Barbara Lilley, Norma Viault, and Gail Wilts. The male portion of the ...
Huaketsa Punta, Eder Sabino Cacha. On June 11, 2004, Mauro Floret, Massimo Sacchi, and Marco Sterni, from Trieste, reached the summit of Huaketsa Punta (a.k.a. Amahuagaychu, 5,134m) after completing the first ascent of the west face. Huaketsa Punt...
Annapurna Attempt and Tragedy. An eight-man Japanese team on the normal route on Annapurna was led by Akihiko Mori. In September 29, after dumping loads at 5900 meters, Mori was returning to Camp I with Tsuyoshi Ono and Ang Dawa Sherpa. They were ...
Quebrada Ishinca, rock climbs. In early July in the Quebrada Ishinca, German climbers Alexander Schmalz-Friedberger and Michael Zettelmeyer established Con Ojeras Debajo de Ojos Vidriosos (180m, 5.10+ C2) on the overhanging east face of Ishik Ullo...
FALL ON ROCK-NOT ANCHORED AT TOP OF CUFF, INEXPERIENCE Utah, Big Cottonwood Canyon, Storm Mountain AmphitheaterOn October 10, Amberly Rogers (20) fell at the Storm Mountain Amphitheater while attempting to set up a top-rope. She was on a buttress ...
Ogre Attempt. Masaharu Takahashi led a Rikhyo University group to the Biafo Glacier to reconnoiter the Ogre (23,901 feet) from June to August They favor the south rather than the north side.ICHIRO YOSHIZAWA, A.A.C. and Japanese Alpine Club
Broad Peak in Twenty-two Hours. Our party consisted of Janusz Majer, leader, Walenty Fiut, Ryszard Pawlowski and me. Jerzy Kukuczka and Wojciech Kurtyka operated separately. Our chief objective was to complete the first one-day ascent of Broad Pea...
Cuerno Oeste, Mas Ricas No Hay; Cuerno Chico, Hurly Burly. My partner Mark Davis and I arrived in Torres del Paine National Park in the first week of February 2003. Our initial objective was a new route on the west face of Torre Norte. We waited e...
Spitzbergen. A group from the Österraichischen Alpenverein, under the leadership of Hans Gsellmann, spent five weeks in Spitzbergen from the end of June 1954 on. They made 25 ascents, all but three of them new climbs. Some of these were very diffi...
Ulta, Alpamayo Norte, Pucaraju and Other Peaks. The South African Andean Expedition arrived in the Cordillera Blanca in June and established itself in the Quebrada Ulta under Chopicalqui near the New Zealanders led by McIlwraith. Roger Fuggle, Ton...
Everest North Face Attempt. Our expedition consisted of Todd Bibler, Carlos Buhler, Dana Coffield, Mark Jennings, Douglas Kelley, Andrew Lapkass, Michael Lehner, Sandy Stewart, Ann Whitehouse, Brinton Young and me as leader. We reached 7775 meters...
Washington, Stuart Range, Mt. Stuart. On 16 October there were three separate climbing teams consisting of two climbers per team on the same route. A massive rock fall came off the ridge all funneling into the chute that the climbers were in. The ...
FALL ON ICE, BELAY DEVICE SET-UP INCORRECTLYColorado, Ouray Ice ParkAccording to reports, on February 6, a client topped out and placed his partner, a guide, on belay. In the process, the client rigged his Reverso incorrectly. Sometime during the ...
Cho Oyu in the Post-Monsoon Season. A large number of expeditions were on the Tibetan side of Cho Oyu climbing the standard route. Before his speed climb on Everest, Marc Batard made a remarkable ascent of Cho Oyu in company with Sundare Sherpa. W...