Appalachian Mountain Club. This year the Club organized a climbing and camping outing at the Gannett Peak Camp in Din- woody Canyon. It attracted a group of 32 climbers of all grades ofclimbing ability. Ascents were made of 8 mountains. Fourteen o...
Torre Central del Paine, East Face. Spanish Basques Mikel Zabalza, Manolo Blásquez, Ritxi López and José Luis Moreno made the second ascent of the very difficult route on the east face of the Torre Central del Paine. This route was climbed in 1986...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED, NO HARD HATWashington, Snoqualmie Pass, The ToothOn August 11, Creth Edward Cupp (31) and Joanne Metzler were climbing the last pitch of the Southwest Face of the Tooth, 5.6, when leader Cupp fell 25 meters pulling...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION and TOO MUCH TIME TO PLACE PROTECTIONColorado, Lovers LeapOn September 6, Greg (40s), Mike (30s) and I, Matt (50), were planning to do Lover’s Leap (5.7), switching leads and having the two following climbers si...
Chimtarga, west face. From August 4-7 the four-man team of Gladysheve, Igolkin, Kondrash- ov, and Soldatov (leader) climbed a new route up the center of the west face of Chimtarga (5,489m), the highest peak in the Fanskie mountains, a beautiful al...
Mischief In Patagonia, by H. W. Tilman. Cambridge University Press, 1957. 185 pages; 16 pages of photographs; 2 maps. Price $3.75.In Mischief In Patagonia, Mr. Tilman has sandwiched his account of crossing the Patagonian Ice Cap, in December 1955 ...
McGinnis Peak, Northeast Ridge, Alaska Range. After crossing the Delta River by kayak on June 14, James Brady and I made our approach via the south branch of the McGinnis Glacier. Working right through the icefall at the cirque entrance, we asce...
Mount McKinley, Northwest Face, First Born. Steve House and Eli Helmuth climbed a new route on the Northwest Face (Father and Son’s Wall) of McKinley. An account of their ascent appears earlier in this journal.
Climbing The World’s 14 Highest Mountains: A History of the 8000-Meter Peaks. Richard Sale, with photo editing by John Cleare. Seattle: Mountaineers Books, 2000. 192 pages. $29.95.This is the first large-format illustrated guidebook to describe th...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, FAILURE TO TURN BACK, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Mount MeekerOn Saturday, January 29, Eric, Ward, Ned, Arnold and I were planning on attempting Mount Meeker (13,911 feet) via the...
Gasherbrum II Attempt. Ours was the first American commercial expedition to an 8000-meter peak. We were Galen Rowell, deputy leader, Bob Sloezen, guide, Dr. Peter Cummings, Lester Thurow, Scott Moore, my wife Aleja, Base Camp manager, and I, leade...
Dunagiri Attempt and. Hanuman. The goal of our Austrian Alpine Club (ÖAK) expedition was the second ascent of 23,184-foot Dunagiri. We were originally Fräulein Hermine Müller, German, Frau Ruth Steinmann-Hess, Swiss, Dr. Erich Bosina and I, Austri...
Overview, history, and naming. The Miyar, north of the Chenab River at Udaipur, has evolved into one of the most popular Himalayan destinations for alpine rock climbers. Serious exploration first started here 40 years ago, and three main high peak...
Washington, Wenatchee National Forest—East Fork of Boulder Creek above Timber Line—On September 5, 1955 Clayton Ogle (35), a Forest Service trail crew cook, slipped on a 50 by 100 yard snow field below a rock cliff while traveling alone above Timb...
Broad Peak Central Attempt from the North. Our expedition was composed of four Catalan Spaniards, Oscar Cadiach, Lluis Rafols, Joan Gelabert and me, Austrian Kurt Diemberger, Italian Alberto Soncini and Sherpas Sakipa, Pemba and Pasang. The proble...
Mount Lefroy, First Winter Ascent. After snowshoeing across Lake Louise, the climb to Abbott Pass was hard trail-breaking. A cold, windy day kept us stormbound among the blankets of Abbott Hut. On March 24 Jim Madsen, Ron Burgener and I climbed Le...
Gasherbrum II. An American expedition was jointly guided by Roger Gocking and Thor Kieser. In unstable weather, the top was reached by 12 of the 20 members. These were Gocking, Kieser and Clay Landon on July 21; Charles Mace, Robert Broshears and ...
Re-opening of the Nathu La to trade. During the summer China and India re-opened a historic trade route that had been closed for almost half a century. The Nathu La, at over 4,000m on the border of Sikkim and Tibet, was part of an old Silk Route. ...
Fitz Roy, Northwest Buttress. Italians Andrea Sarchi, Lorenzo Nadali and Mauro Girardi ascended the northwest buttress of Fitz Roy over four days in January. Their route, Ensueño, began in the Super Couloir before moving onto the buttress, where t...
Tibetan (and Xinjiang) mountains, various ascents. The following climbs, primarily in Tibet, were made during 2007 and 2008. All are first known ascents. Kangzhagri, Kukushili, Pulha Ri, Purog Kangri, Sirenshou, and Toze Kangri Northeast have a pr...