Kachina Mountain Club. The Club, with headquarters in Phoenix, Arizona, has an active membership of 20 and is admitting new members as soon as they can be trained. All new members must make at least six practice climbs before they are accepted. Th...
Via Sin Aqua, the Upper Yosemite Falls Traverse. The Falls were completely dry and both Bugs McKeith of Edinburgh and I had noticed the same possible route. In September, 1970 we followed Muir’s footsteps to the western terminus of the ledge leadi...
Huandoy Norte, East Face and Other Peaks, 1977. Bertl Gribnitz, Waltraut Sommersacher, Arnulf Leitner, Gerhard Neumayer and I as leader climbed in the Cordillera Blanca in July of 1977. On July 27 we repeated the Polish route on the east face of H...
Momhil Sar. Momhil Sar, the 24,090-foot peak which lies just west of Trivor, was climbed by an Austrian expedition from Styria. It was led by Hans Schell and included Rudolf Pischinger, Horst Schindelbacher, Leo Schlömmer and Rolf Widerhofer. Afte...
The Citadel. On August 28 Joe Munson and Jim Parolini made the first ascent of this 7378-foot peak from 1½ miles below Royal Basin. Brush and scree were encountered to the low point on the ridge connecting with Greywolf Ridge. The ridge was follow...
Allpamayo, Kitaraju. Our expedition was composed of Wally Barker, Rick Hanners and me. From Base Camp at the confluence of the Que- bradas Arweiqocha and Santa Cruz, on July 20 Barker and I unsuccessfully attempted Kurikashjana. On July 29 he and ...
Llihirini I, Ancohuma, Illimani and Other Peaks, Cordillera Real. We three reached Base Camp in the northern Cordillera Real from La Paz after two days’ drive and two days’ walk. Stephen Venables and I climbed Viluyo I (5638 meters, 18,500 feet) o...
West Annapurna, Stuart Range. Using an approach from Ingalls Creek, Dave Beckstead and I made the first ascent of the south face in June. We began on broken granite at the lowest portion of the face, then followed a slight rib on the face. Most of...
Northern Andes or Puna. An expedition of eight members of the Club Andino Mercedario (San Juan, Argentina) set out to explore some peaks situated astride the Chilean-Argentinian border, with the hope of finding Indian remains on their summits. The...
VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, VARIOUS CAUSESCalifornia, Joshua Tree National ParkThere were five incident reports from this park that qualified for the data. They all were falls, three of them resulting in injuries because either protection pulled or the...
Washington, South Skokomish River. Though not an alpine accident, the rescue is included because it required technical mountain rescue methods. On March 16th, four skin divers in wet suits were floating down this fast river gorge on two-man rubber...
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTColorado, Pikes PeakOn June 19, 1982, Oliver King (23) and I (21) began ascending the East Face of Pikes Peak around 1030. King was following me down a steep snowfield because he did not have an ice ax with him at...
Bhyundar Valley, Garhwal. The Bombay Mountaineering Committee sent out a party of fifteen, including three Sherpa instructors from the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute to train climbers in the Bhyundar valley, made famous by Frank Smythe as the ...
Peaks Climbed by the India-Tibet Border Police. This is a further continuation of the list given under Garhwal and Himachal Pradesh. The only one noted as a first ascent is Saser Kangri, about which an article appeared in A.A.J., 1975 on pages 65-...
Antarctica, Overview. The 1999-2000 season was the busiest season ever for tourism in Antarctica. This popularity was reflected in the relatively high number of mountaineers active on the continent, particularly in the Peninsula area. Most yacht-b...
Mount Dawson, Northwest face, Selkirk Range. Faith in photographs taken nearly a half century ago can be foolish, we learned. What had looked like a good ice route on the north face of the Dawson Massif had receded to cliffy remnants and a long sp...
Colorado, Turkey Creek Canyon, “The Dome.” On 19 September, William Davis (17) and Peyton Price Mead (15) were climbing roped on The Dome. Mead slipped but was held temporarily by Davis until the rope broke and both persons fell. Davis was killed ...
Gasherbrum II, Chilean Expedition. Our expedition consisted of Jorge Bassa, Claudio Gálvez, Rubén Lamilla, Claudio Lucero, Nelson Muñoz, Jorge Quinteros, Iván Vigouroux, Leonardo Zúñiga and me as leader. It took us two weeks to complete formalitie...
Z3 and P 5750, Zanskar. Our objective had been to climb P 6550 at the head of the Durung Drum Glacier. We ascended the glacier for about ten miles and placed Base Camp at 14,775 feet. However bad weather and intestinal infections caused us to chan...
Chamonix et le Mont Blanc, by Paul Payot and G. Tairraz. 24 pages of text, 48 pages of illustrations. In a series entitled “Aspects de la France.” Grenoble and Paris: B. Arthaud, 1949.Payot is a native of Chamonix and has become the authority on t...