Peaks near Pasu. Although the weather was not particularly good, we did climb some lovely 5000ers. On June 13, Robert Gruber ascended solo Sost Sar (c. 5200 meters, 17,061 feet) by its rocky south face. The peak lies north of Sost, a village just ...
Huandoy Oeste, West Ridge. A French expedition completed the first ascent of the west ridge of Huandoy Oeste (20,853 feet) on August 6, 1974. The climbers were J.-L. Guyonneau, J.-L. Joubert, V. Lant, G. Lemoine and A. Zagdoun. They ascended the R...
Pik Troglav, north summit, north face, second ascent; Khan Tengri, one day ascent. On July 26 Tine Marence and I arrived at South Inylchek Base Camp (4,000m), hoping to climb the south face of Pik Chapaev (6,371m). For our warm up and acclimatizat...
Mount Hood, Yokum Ridge. As we swung the car up the last few switchbacks to Timberline, Mount Hood stood crystalline clear against the blue sky. There had not been many clear days like this during the present season, and on the chance the weather ...
Gangapurna. A Japanese expedition from Osaka led by Toshio Noshi made a successful ascent of Gangapurna (24,457 feet) by the east ridge, the same route followed by the Germans in 1965. From their highest camp, Camp III at 20,675 feet, Takeshi Kiku...
Climber’s Guide to the Cascade and Olympic Mountains of Washington, Second Edition, by a committee of the Cascade Section of the American Alpine Club, chairman George R. Sainsbury, illustrations by Dee Molenaar. American Alpine Club, 1961. Price $...
AAC, South Central Section. Texas rock climbers from Austin, San Antonio, Dallas and Houston climbing clubs have been working with the Central Texas Climbing Committee and park staff on a conservation project at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area. ...
Big Baron Spire, Sawtooth Mountains. Dave Davis and I did the first ascent of the east face of this striking peak. The climb begins directly below the imposing summit capstone in a chimney/crack system. It is five pitches long with the crux a larg...
Antarctic. The only ascent made by the Argentine glaciological expedition from Belgrano Base was that of the nunatak called "Pantera” (Panther) by the Argentines in the Moltke Nunatak Group. The climb was made on November 28, 1958 by Dinko Bertonc...
Citadel, Northwest Buttress, Riesenstein, West Face and Kichatna Spire Attempt, Cathedral Spires, Kichatna Mountains. After landing on the Cool Sac Glacier with 25 days of food, Ed Newville and I attempted the west face of the 8000-foot “Riesenste...
Peak 7732, Chilliwacks. The first ascent of this peak, which is the highest point on the ridge between Redoubt Creek and Pass Creek and which overlooks Little Beaver Creek, was made by John Stout, Alfred Tatyrek, Marilyn Loranger, Ruth Ittner, and...
Nevado Imantata, Cordillera de Quimsa Cruz. On July 2 I climbed P 5380 (south side, rock and flat ice), which I named Nevado Imantata (Hidden Peak), in Aimara. On the north summit of the main ridge there was a surveyor’s cairn. The same day I trav...
Canyonlands Area. On the road to North Sharpshooter Tower, a mile from the dug-out ranch and on the north side of the highway, is the canyon often called “Fringe of Death Canyon.” Jim Dunn and companions have climbed a couple of dozen crack lines ...
Mount Hunter, North Buttress Attempt. Dan and Patrick McNerth- ney, Rob Newsom and I* arrived in Talkeetna on May 2 and were on the glacier that evening. The next couple of days found us establishing Base Camp and telescoping the face. We chose a ...
Washington, Cliff in Upper Entiat Valley—On 29 June, Dewey Long (15) fell 100 feet to his death while attempting to climb a cliff with a friend in the hills of the upper Entiat Valley.Source: Newspaper clipping.
Huayanay Group, Cordillera Vilcabamba. Led by Louis Dubost, a group of 55 members of the Section Lyon-Saint Gervais of the French Alpine Club left France on July 23 for the Cordillera Vilcabamba. Of these, 14 men and 2 women were serious climbers....
RAPPEL ERROR, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, HYPOTHERMIA, WEATHER California, Tuolumne Meadows, Pywiack DomeOn July 23, a powerful thunderstorm swept through Tuolumne Meadows in the early afternoon. My partner and I raced to the top of our route, simulclimb...
Mount Sanford. Solo-climber Naomi Uemura from Japan accomplished the fourth ascent of Mount Sanford (16,237 feet). He flew in to only 3500 feet with food for twenty days. With a long pole tied to his pack, he probed all the way. He was driven back...
FALL ON RAPPELBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount StanleyOn July 27, after returning from the North Face glacier route, three climbers were rappelling low angle slabs heading to the meadows below. One of them lost control of his rappel for a ...
Warbonnet, Northeast Face. From Camp on Lonesome Lake at about nine in the morning in August, Eric Beck and I walked up toward Jackass Pass to see whether the route we had picked out on the northeast face of Warbonnet would go. A steep snow slope ...