The Hubbard AffairKenneth Andrasko, Harvard Mountaineering ClubHUBBARD is such a tubby name, without serpentine or exception, no howling past or return to forever, just a designation. Its western countenance has that same schizophrenic symmetry as...
On April 24, Cam Lawson (30) was leading the sixth pitch of Iron Hawk, a Grade VI route on El Capitan. This pitch starts on the big ledge from which the El Cap Tree grows. Jason Kraus (29) was belaying from the ledge, using a GriGri clipped to his...
Boulder Gorge, Yosemite. September 28, 1966 was supposed to be a rest day. I had just returned from a Yosemite beat-out and did not feel up to anything hard. So I decided to give my wife Liz a treat by taking her up an “easy” first ascent. Vic Cow...
Mt. Index, Murphy’s Law. Stuart Taylor and I went in to check out the west face of the North Peak of Mount Index (5,353') on Friday, February 17, 2006. We planned to attempt the unrepeated Eve Dearborn Memorial (EDM)/Supercou- loir route. The appr...
Mount Snoqualmie, Northwest Face, First Winter Ascent. In January, Greg Colum and I decided to attempt the route first climbed by Dan Davis. The northwest face, not visible from the road, is one of the largest and steepest in the Snoqualmie Pass a...
FALLING ROCK, WEATHERYukon Territory, Mount Augusta, North ButtressAt 1500 on June 18, South District Ranger Daryl Miller in Talkeetna, AX, was phoned by Charlie Sassara’s wife, Siri Moss, about an accident on Mount Augusta—a border peak 20 miles ...
Cerro San Valentin, Ascent, and. Hielo Patagonico Norte, Traverse. Two of us, Tomasz Schramm and Andrzej Smialy, had as our goal to make a traverse of the northern part of the Hielo Patagonico Norte as well as to climb the highest mountain in Pata...
Various first free ascents. In February Brian Smoot, Colby Wayment, and I free climbed The Locksmith Dihedral (IV, previously 5.11 Cl), located on the wall to the left of the Watchman. This formation was dubbed “The Gatekeeper Wall” by Dave Jones,...
AVALANCHE Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount Wilson, Midnight RamblerOn February 12 John Miner, Jim Andrues, and Russ Howard were climbing Midnight Rambler (240 m. III, WI3) on Mount Wilson in Banff National Park. Two of the three were highly exp...
WILLIAM SARGENT LADD1887 -1949Little more than a year ago, a group of us stood in the Library of the American Alpine Club and heard Dr. Ladd tell us that the new house was ours. It was his gift, the fulfillment of an old dream. His unexpected deat...
Straight Up. The Life and Death of John Harlin, by James Ramsey Ullman. New York: Doubleday & Co., 287 pages, 32 pages of photographs. Price: $5.95.“… direttissima, glory on the wall for Big John Harlin, greatest of them all.” (Song)."—for som...
DONALD PHILLIPS1884-1938In the development of the Canadian Northwest, the completion of the Canadian Pacific Railroad in 1885. with the virtual extinction of the buffalo and the decline of the fur-trade, marked the end of an era. It was succeeded ...
A prominent rock peak with an unusual summit icecap, located between the upper forks of the Stony River, southeast of the nearby Revelation Mountains, is identified incorrectly on current topographic maps. The true Snowcap Mountain (ca 8,350') is ...
Peaks Above Darrah-i-Mulaw (Scottish). The Scottish Hindu Kush Expedition was composed of Dr. R.A. North, W.M.A. Sproul, W.J.A. Tauber and me. Following the pattern of previous years, there was much activity in the Hindu Kush. Our expedition was d...
Wide Awake Tower, Wild Fire. Being a Canadian Rockies climber bred on shattered limestone and blocky quartzite, I spent the spring and summer road-tripping, determined to learn how to climb cracks. After a couple of months of Indian Creek hand jam...
University Peak, 1954GIBSON REYNOLDSThe privileged first climbers to visit a major alpine region share an experience that is becoming rare in North America. One such relatively untouched region is surprisingly close to the well-traveled Chitina Va...
1951–991959–9920002000USACAN.USACAN.TerrainRock37594558511Snow2138324616Ice20711246River13300Unknown22800Ascent or DescentAscent33454839318Descent2023337575Unknown247500Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock2611245678Slip on snow or ice844171307Falli...
A Climber’s Guide to Devils Tower National Monument, by Terry Rypkema and Curt Haire, 1977, 80 pages, 8 photos. Price $5.95.The review is written from the point of view that this guide was much needed, and there is little this reviewer can write t...
Nestled deep in the Wind River Range at the upper end of the East Fork Valley, Ambush’s east face is one of the largest faces in the Winds. Its 800' headwall is guarded by a roof system, upwards of 30', across the middle of the wall. The...
Coronado, San Calixto, Chicani, Pico Milluni of Huayna Potosí, Condoriri, Italian Expedition. In late June I met an Italian expedition, Giuseppe Agnolotti, leader, Vittorio Lazzarino, Eugenio Ferrero and Giuseppe Castelli. They were searching for ...