Dhaulagiri Autumn Ascents and Attempts. There were a number of expeditions in the post-monsoon season on Dhaulagiri’s northeast ridge. Members of an expedition led by Karl Kobler completed the 42nd ascent when Swiss Kobler, Hans Ruedi Roesti, Pete...
Point 4,400m above the Trango Glacier, first ascent (Sadu). A few days after their climb on Eternal Flame, Antoine and Sandrine de Choudens set off on July 20 for what they hoped would prove a pleasant rock climb on one of the small buttresses abo...
Venezia Tidentina. 4to., 240 pages and 422 illustrations from photos, 4 in color, and one map. 17th of a series of 19 (Attraverso l’Italia). Touring Club Italiano: Milan, 1951; 2nd edition 1952. Price, L. 2000.Sicilia. Similar in format; 4th of th...
Langar Group, Sar Shkhawr Valley. The Silesian Hindu Kush Expedition was led by Jan Weigel and composed of A. Bara, Z. Burczak, W. Betlejewski, Z. Bojarski, T. Dyczkowski, M. Kulak, M. Kuras, F. Köhler, K. Kwiatkowski, J. Majchrowicz, K. Opyrchal,...
Nepal Alpine Guides Course. The Aleš Kunaver School was established in 1979 in Manang in the Peri Himal by our Planinska zveza Slovenije (Slovene Mountaineering Association). In 1992 between August 20 and September 25, it was directed by Matevž Le...
Government avalanche warning. After the 2004-05 winter, following the heaviest snowfall in Pakistan for over 40 years, Pakistan’s Meteorological Department issued a warning to climbers and trekkers planning to visit the Karakoram and Hindu Kush du...
Cerro Torre, West Face Attempt, “Crystals in the Wind. ” On October 23, 1994, despite doubtful weather, Elio Orlandi, Odoardo Ravizza and I headed for the Southern Patagonian Icecap to wait out the weather in a snow cave. On October 27, a surprisi...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, OFF-ROUTE, UNROPED Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount MoranBeset by bad weather and injury, a climber wearing shorts, running tights and a light jacket spent two nights on Mount Moran without overnight ge...
Washington, Castle Rock—On 8 Dec. Leonard Miller (33) and Dick Wahl- strom (24) had completed a good fifth class climb up the face of Castle Rock. Conditions were bad due to ice and snow on the rock, but both were eager climbers and of moderate ex...
RAPPEL ERROR—ROPES UNEVENColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Hand CrackOn June 11, a climber (29) rappelled off the end of one-half of his rope and fell 30 feet. He indicated that his rappel rope was not doubled equally. (Source: Tim Metzger, Pa...
Shisha Pangma Central, Southwest Side. On September 29, Spaniards Ernest Bladé, Albert Castellet, Araceli Segarra and Ferrán Latorre repeated the route climbed on the southwest side of Shisha Pangma by Loretan, Troillet and Kurtyka in 1990. Like t...
Torre Central, Attempt, Conflageration, and Plain Hard Luck. A British expedition comprising Noel Craine, Simon Nadin and Strappo Hughes did not summit on the Central Tower of Paine in the Chilean Patagonia in February. If you like ghost stories, ...
Mountaineering at Harvard. The Harvard Mountaineering Club is unique among college mountaineering clubs in this countryin that it is the only one of long existence and achievement. The greatest accomplishments in the past have usually been achieve...
Mt. Sacagawea, Northwest Face. On September 3, after humping into Titcomb Basin with enough gear for 15 days in the wilderness, my brother Jamie and I established a first ascent on the northwest face of Mt. Sacagawea. The incredible Dixie Chickens...
Interesting Statistics. In 1987, new all-time records were set for the number of people attempting Mount McKinley: 1978 = 539; 1979 = 533; 1980 = 659; 1981=612; 1982 = 696; 1983 = 709; 1984 = 695; 1985 = 645; 1986 = 755; 1987 = 817. Success Rate: ...
Numbur Attempt. Five Swiss led by Guido Bumann got to only 18,700 feet on October 23. When they found their proposed north-ridge to northwest-ridge route too dangerously exposed to avalanches, they found the alternative northwest ridge would take ...
Rasac, Middle Buttress of West Face, and Yerupajá, West Face Direct. From June 23 to 26 Louis Deuber, my wife Alice and I climbed the west face of Rasac. From Rasaccocha we climbed east for four rope-lengths over polished cliffs to a small lake at...
McHenry’s Peak, The Kidnapper Van. In the Glacier Gorge cirque, Justin Dubois and I climbed a new free route on an unclimbed tower on the North Ridge of McHenry’s Peak. Our route followed a fairly direct line of discontinuous cracks and corners on...
MISSING CLIMBERS, SEVERE WEATHERWashington, Mount Rainier, Muir SnowfieldChris Hartonas (40) and Raymond Vakili (48) disappeared while climbing to Camp Muir on November 5. Hartonas and Vakili were experienced mountaineers and both men had been to ...
Peaks 10,822 and 10,852. From a camp in the north fork of Snowshoe Canyon, Julie Petersen, Jack Davis, and Silvia Prodan ascended on July 23 to the saddle between Peaks 10,822 and 10,894 from which, after climbing over the east summit, they reache...