Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Deception, North Face, and Mt. Brooks, Northwest Ridge

Deception, North Face, and Mt. Brooks, Northwest Ridge. In late July, Rick Studley and I scampered into the Muldrow via Glacier Creek. We climbed a low angle arête on the north face of Deception Peak and descended the east ridge back to base camp ...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Midwest Section

AAC, Midwest Section. The following summarizes the Section's 2002 activities. In February the Midwest Section represented the AAC at the annual International Adventure Travel and Outdoor Show on Navy Pier in Chicago. This was a fine opportunity fo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, Mt. Foraker, Sultana Ridge, Notable Ascent

Mt. Foraker, Sultana Ridge, Notable Ascent. Japanese soloist Masatoshi Kuriaki attempted a winter ascent of Mt. Foraker. He spent 57 days on the Sultana Ridge before attaining the summit, which was achieved after the official end of winter. Furthe...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Australasia, New Zealand,  Alpine Rock in the Darran Mountains Summary

Alpine rock in the Darran Mountains summary. After a quiet winter, some sustained periods of fine weather and a group of motivated climbers brought a surge of activity to the Darrans this summer.Craig Jefferies and Martin Wightman made the most no...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mt. Findlay

(1) Dutch Creek GroupMt. Findlay, 10,786 ft. First ascent, July 24. E. Cromwell, J. M. Thorington, C. Kain, P. Kaufmann. From camp at head of Dutch Creek by way of Trikootenay glacier and pass to head of Findlay creek. The peak is reach by traver...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Snow Creek Wall, New Routes

Snow Creek Wall, New Routes. The Satellite Route on the southern section of the wall consists of eight major leads and was completed April 21 by Steve Marts and Fred Beckey. The central 300 feet ascends a very black area on small friction holds, a...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Mount Forel and Other Peaks, East

Mount Forel and Other Peaks, East Greenland. On April 26 Bruno Klaus- bruckner, leader, E. Frosch, E. Gritzner, W. Hölzl, H. Hörhan, L. Krenn, O. Pletschko, F. Pucher, H. Wimmer and I were flown by helicopter from An- gmagssalik to the Franche Com...


Accident Reports ANAM
California, Mt. San Jacinto

California, Mt. San Jacinto—On February 27, a church group camping at Camp Tahquitz went for a short hike on the Devils Slide Trail. When the group re-assembled at the camp for lunch, it was noticed that Paul E. Walker (68) was missing. Walker had...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Ecuador, Chimborazo and Iliniza Norte

Chimborazo and lliniza Norte. From January 3 to 7, my wife Grace and I were pinned down in our tiny tent near 18,000 feet on a northern ridge of Chimborazo between Whymper’s two routes. Twice we tied off portions of the tent as it started to rip. ...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section

A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. The section held four meetings in 1962. On February 9 Richard Hechtel showed spectacular slides of the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. His expedition the previous summer climbed Chopicalqui by a new route, made the first ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Coast Range, Papoose Rock, Hallucination Route

Papoose Rock, Hallucination Route. This 450-foot route on the west face is the most difficult yet done on Papoose. It follows several non-continuous crack lines just left of the middle of the face and turns a major ceiling and then a prominent yel...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Nilgiri South

Nilgiri South. Our Shinshu University Expedition was composed of Taichi Fujimatsu, Hideki Yoshida, Nobuhito Morota, Seiji Tanaka, Yoshiaki Kato and me as leader. We left Pokhara on September 5 and got to Base Camp at 13,300 feet beside the Miristi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine Patagonia, Cerro Torre, Compressor Route, and Fitz Roy, West Face, Attempt

Cerro Torre, Compressor Route, and Fitz Roy, West Face, Attempt. On February 11, British legal alien Kevin Thaw and I climbed the Compressor route from the Norwegian Camp, making the trip in 27 hours. Earlier, we had attempted a new route on the w...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, McKinley, East Buttress

McKinley, East Buttress. On May 29, Don Lee flew Scott Hartle, Joe Terravecchia and me to 7700 feet on the northwest fork of the Ruth Glacier. For the next week during unstable weather, we ascended the 1963 ramp to Thayer Basin. Rather than to att...


Accident Reports ANAM
Alberta, Rockies, Mt. Athabaska

Alberta, Rockies, Mt. Athabaska. On 29 July D. Caldwell (27), L. Swanson (27), and S. Imber (30) were on the usual (Thorington’s 2) route on Mt. Athabaska. Miss Imber stayed on the false summit while the two men went out the long snow ridge to the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington-Cascade Mountains, Cutthroat Peak, East-Face Couloir

Cutthroat Peak, East-Face Couloir. In April Tim Wilson and I made the first ascent of the prominent gully system that splits the east face of Cutthroat Peak. It was five pitches of enjoyable snow and ice with one long steep pitch of ice at the bot...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, South Staunings Alps

South Staunings Alps. In July and August a Scottish expedition was in the South Staunings Alps, a little known region of Scoresby Land in central East Greenland. It was sponsored by the Junior Mountaineering Club of Scotland and led by James Clark...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Manaslu, South Ridge Attempt

Manaslu, South Ridge Attempt. A nine-man expedition from Wroclaw, Poland, led by Janusz Ferenski, attempted Makalu by its south ridge from the Pungen Glacier to the col between Peak 29 (Dunapurna) and Manaslu. The route had never before been attem...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Stonehouse Pinnacle, Stonehouse Peak, Trinity Alps

Stonehouse Pinnacle, Stonehouse Peak, Trinity Alps. During the late spring, Frank Yager, Bill Griffin, and I hiked seven miles up to Lower Canyon Creek Lake in the Trinity Alps to climb a 1000-foot pinnacle on Stonehouse Peak. Our route followed t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Manaslu Attempt

Manaslu Attempt. An Italian expedition led by Lorenzo Massarotto attempted the east ridge of Manaslu (26,760 feet), which had unsuccessfully been tried by the French in 1977. They set up Base Camp on April 7 at 12,700 feet. Terrin Elvio and Vittor...