West Face of Mount BrusselsArthur GranNEW LIMESTONE TECHNIQUESA climber’s composure is his most valuable asset on steep limestone walls of the Canadian Rockies. This calmness must be coupled with instant reactions when holds break and shift. The o...
Everest and Examples of Self-Sacrifice. A Spanish expedition led by Juan Carlos Gómez sucessfully completed the ascent of Everest on October 6 when Jose Antonio Garcés, Francisco José Pérez and Rafael Vidaurre reached the summit from the South Col...
Song of WanderingHans MoldenhauerGo West, Young Man, Go WestAT last, the bus pulled out of New York City into New Jersey, and from Pulaski Highway there was that last sight of the big town: of the skyscrapers on the battery which the newcomer hope...
Geographically in Africa, but politically in Spain, the island of Gran Canaria is home to a “mature” climbing area that has failed to get onto the radar of most climbers due to lack of information. Most of Gran Canaria is a beautiful and mou...
STRANDED, WEATHER Washington, Snoqualmie PassJim Doub and I set out from Source Lake early Sunday morning to climb the North East Buttress of Chair Peak. Jim was doing his first rock climb rated at class 4. We ascended the route without difficulty...
FALL INTO CREVASSE (BRIDGE COLLAPSE)-DISLOCATED SHOULDERWashington, Mount Rainier, Emmons GlacierOn July 28th, an RMI client (38) fell a short distance into a crevasse, sustaining a shoulder dislocation while descending the Disappointment Cleaver ...
Joe Dodge: One New Hampshire Institution. William L. Putnam. Phoenix Publishing, Canaan, New Hampshire, 1986. 184 pages, 60 photographs, appendixes. $16.00.This is the story of a unique White Mountain character, famous across the nation—and a lege...
Ascent of K2. By Prof. Ardito Desio. Translated by David Moore. 239 pages, 57 illustrations, 3 maps in text. London: Elek Books. Printed in Holland, 1955. Price 21 s.The most massive assault on any major peak in the history of mountaineering, hind...
Gigante Grande, Torre Jihuaña and Other Peaks, Cordillera Quimsa Cruz. Our expedition was composed of Piera Casale, Vincenzo Chiesa, Mario Dioli, Andrea Facchetti, Angelo Gelmi, Gino Locatelli, Elio Scarabelli, Tullio Speckenhauser, Giorgio Tofani...
ACUTE PULMONARY EDEMA OF HIGH ALTITUDEA condition which is known medically as acute pulmonary edema appears to occur at high altitudes—and this means to mountaineers—much more often than has been heretofore suspected. Since publication of brief no...
Eric Shipton: Everest & Beyond. Peter Steele. The Mountaineers: Seattle, 1998. Black- and-white photographs. 280 pages. $24.95.Fans and friends of Eric Shipton will be delighted and surprised at the appearance of this biography. For several ye...
Norman Collie: A Life in Two Worlds—Mountain Explorer and Scientist, 1859–1942. Christine Mill. Aberdeen University Press, Aberdeen, 1987. XIII+197 pages, black-and-white photographs, maps, appendices. £14.90.In Norman Collie: A Life in Two Worlds...
FALL ON ROCK, ASCENDERS DETACHED FROM ROPE California, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn May 12, 1992, John McDonald (31) was cleaning an aid pitch on the Zodiac route (VI, 5.11, A3) on El Capitan, when his ascenders apparently became detached from hi...
Fitz Roy’s Southeast ButtressPeter Friedrich, Centro Andino Buenos AiresFEW OF THE world’s great mountains impress one with their majesty and beauty as much as Fitz Roy. Its magic caught us so strongly that we were moved to make the rash decision ...
Swiss Expedition to the Cordillera Vilcabamba and the Cordillera Blanca. The Swiss left Mollepata on May 20 to climb in the Cordillera Vilcabamba in two different groups, Ernest Reiss, Seth Abderhalden, Franz Anderrüthi, Dr. Hans Thoenen and Erich...
Waiting for the SunA year’s worth of climbing on Escudo’s east faceby Jean-Daniel NicoletTRANSLATED BY MARINA HEUSCHPatagonia remains an unconquered country, an oasis of solitude, an ideal place for discovery and adventure. It is battered by winds...
AVALANCHE—Washington, Mt. St. Helens. On April 26, 1975, during a period of wet snow, precipitation and high winds, five students from the University of Puget Sound were killed in a massive avalanche which occurred at 8 p.m.The 29 climbers were le...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION—FAILED TO CLIP IN TO ANCHORAlaska, Mount Wake, Denali National ParkOn April 20, 1994, Michele Morseth, Todd McCann (26), and Walker Parke (36) flew into the Ruth Gorge. Their climbing objective was Mount Wake's N...
Chinese Tien-Shan Range, reconnaissance. Four of us—Anatoly Dzhulie (leader), David Lekhtman, Vladimir Leonenko, and myself, Otto Chkhetiani—explored the remote Tien-Shan mountains of China, on the other side of the Kok-Shaal-Too Range. We covered...
Foraker, Second Ascent of West Ridge. On June 24 Spencer Fulweiler, Bob Garmirian, Chris Niles, Mark Siks, Bruce Underwood and I were dropped off at the Purkey Pile landing strip, just west of the McKinley Park boundary. We were hoping to climb th...