Stiletto, Drag Queen. On July 26 Justin Cassels, Jonny Simms, and I started up a corner system on the Stiletto that Jon and his girlfriend Kinley had explored a few days earlier. Justin and I had also attempted the route, but we ran out of time tr...
“Thunder Mountain”Geoff Hornby, Alpine Climbing GroupONE OF THE BEAUTIES OF CLIMBING in the central Alaska Range is the ease of access to the mountains in terms of time and the tremendous potential for exploration, first ascents and new routes. Th...
Kangerdlugssuaq South, first ascents. From July 22 to August 18,2005, Dave Swinburne and I climbed 16 new peaks within three previously unvisited glacier systems that descend from the fringes of the ice cap southeast of the Hutchinson Plateau. We ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWashington, Leavenworth—Icicle CreekThis accident related to a fall taken by Don Novak (49) on April 7, 1984, about 1530. Don was attempting to lead the left hand portion of Z Crack. He had climbed this particula...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONNew Hampshire, Saco Crag, Roadside AttractionOn Saturday, May 31, a first-season leader and his partner were starting up Roadside Attraction, 5.9+ on Saco Crag, north of Cathedral Ledge. The leader used a nut as ...
Freeing the SalathéThe greatest rock climb in the worldby Alex HuberLoaded down with 250 meters of rope, bivouac equipment and food for five days, I hike alone to the top of E1 Cap to work on the Salathé Headwall. One week earlier, I had spent thr...
Mountains and Man, A Study of Process and Environment. Larry W. Price. University of California, Berkeley, 1981. 506 pages, black-and-white photographs, maps, illustrations, tables. $29.95.The main task of Mountains & Man is to explore the com...
The Ice Princess, Mt. Scott, and Various Descents. On February 28, 2001, Rick Armstrong, John Griber, Kris Erickson, Doug Stoup, and I sailed from Ushuaia, Argentina, across the treacherous Drake Passage on the Grigory Mikheev, a Russian icebreake...
Climbs on Mont Blanc, by Jacques and Tom de Lépiney, translated by Sidney Spencer. Pp. 179. Edward Arnold & Co., London, England, 1930. 10/6.The well-known intrepidity of the brothers de Lépiney is brilliantly, and withal, modestly exhibited i...
Colorado: (1) near Morrison. On 22 April 1950 Jack Scudder, Walter Wilkinson and E. D. Woodring, all of Denver, were climbing among the Turkey Creek rocks, 12 miles southwest of Morrison. Scudder and Wilkinson were demonstrating rock climbing tech...
Numbers Refer to Number of Persons Involved1951-68U.S.A.1959-68CAN.1969U.S.A.CAN.TerrainRock69251838Snow409453710River3000Unknown1200Ascent or DescentAscent543495613Descent50145625Unknown61420Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock38930475Failure of p...
Devil's Thumb SoloJonathan KrakauerAT the end of April, with a month’s food, a pile of alpine paraphernalia, and $200, I hitched a ride north out of the Seattle area on a salmon seiner that was short on crew. Five days out, we docked in soggy Pete...
RICHARD L. BURDSALL 1895-1953Richard L. Burdsall, son of Elwood and Louella M. Burdsall, was born at Purchase, New York, in 1895. After graduation from Swarthmore College in 1917 as a mechanical engineer, he served with the American Friends Servic...
Alberta, Mt. Yamnuska. On 2 May John Kula (22) and John Martin (29) began climbing the Redshirt Route of Mt. Yamnuska (rated II F6) in the morning. Martin had not climbed this route before, and John Kula had climbed only the first two pitches prev...
The West Face of HuantsánPeter Lehner, James Wuest and Brinton YoungDuring the summer of 1979, six of us from the Harvard Mountaineering Club accomplished the first ascent of the west face of the Nevado Huantsán in Peru. Huantsán, at 20,982 feet t...
Changi Tower North Peak, First Ascent. Changi Tower (ca. 5800m) (the actual height of Changi Tower was difficult to assess, firstly because of the poor-quality maps [all maps greater than 1:50,000 are classified as restricted military information]...
FALL ON ROCK, WEATHER, INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Moose's Tooth, Ham and EggsOn May 11, a climber fell about 60 feet while climbing the “Ham and Eggs” route on the Moose’s Tooth. He sustained tibia/fibula fractures, with ankle and metatarsal dislocations...
1910. Mt. McKinley’s North PeakDee MolenaarAt first the reported ascent of Mt. McKinley’s North Peak by three miners from Fairbanks was dismissed as a tall tale from fertile boomtown imaginations. Eventually it was deemed one of the greatest feats...
A Summer in ZermattCharles S. HoustonFOR some time Dr. Graham Brown had urged on me the delights of the Pennine Alps, and it was more than coincidence that brought us there together last summer. After a pleasant trip to London, we rattled all nigh...
Fenriskjeften mountains, Ulvetanna, north face, and other ascents; Holte- dahl mountains, six first ascents. Stein-Ivar Gravdal, Trond Hilde, Ivar Tollefsen, and I visited the Orvin mountains in Queen Maud Land from November 2 through December 10....