1951–991959–9920002000USACAN.USACAN.TerrainRock37594558511Snow2138324616Ice20711246River13300Unknown22800Ascent or DescentAscent33454839318Descent2023337575Unknown247500Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock2611245678Slip on snow or ice844171307Falli...
A Climber’s Guide to Devils Tower National Monument, by Terry Rypkema and Curt Haire, 1977, 80 pages, 8 photos. Price $5.95.The review is written from the point of view that this guide was much needed, and there is little this reviewer can write t...
Nestled deep in the Wind River Range at the upper end of the East Fork Valley, Ambush’s east face is one of the largest faces in the Winds. Its 800' headwall is guarded by a roof system, upwards of 30', across the middle of the wall. The...
Coronado, San Calixto, Chicani, Pico Milluni of Huayna Potosí, Condoriri, Italian Expedition. In late June I met an Italian expedition, Giuseppe Agnolotti, leader, Vittorio Lazzarino, Eugenio Ferrero and Giuseppe Castelli. They were searching for ...
Annapurna—A Woman’s Place, by Arlene Blum. San Francisco: Sierra Club Books, 1980. 256 pages, black-and-white and color photos, maps, bibliography. Price $14.95.This account of the 1978 American Women’s Himalayan Expedition to Annapurna I is actua...
Ama Dablam Attempt. Geoff Hewitt, Chris Bradshaw, Gareth Walker and I arrived at Base Camp near Mingbo on March 22. In the area was a Canadian team of six, also with permission for the south ridge of Ama Dablam. They planned to fix the entire rout...
Sortebrae Mountains, seven ascents. Our eight-member expedition comprising Andy Garman, Alasdair Garnett, Rob Green, Clare O'Sullivan, Jonathan Philips, Tracey Quine, Malcolm Sloan, and I left the U.K. on June 2, bound for an unvisited glacier in ...
Mali-ka-Parbat, Kaghan Valley. This highest and most prominent peak in the Kaghan Valley has a southern (17,356 feet) and a northern summit (17,135 feet). The only ascent of the south summit was made in 1940 from Salif-ul-Muluk Lake by British Lie...
A Walk in the Sky: Climbing Hidden Peak. Nicholas Clinch. The Mountaineers, Seattle and The American Alpine Club, New York, 1982. xii + 214 pages, black and white and color photographs, map. $18.95.Millions of years ago, a mighty and inexorable cl...
Further Exploration and Ascents in the Coast Range of British ColumbiaHenry S. Hall, Jr.TRIPS toward the Mt. Waddington group from Tatla Lake in 1931 and 1932 and a near approach to Mt. Monarch in 1932 convinced me that I had found the best route ...
FOOTHOLD AND HANDHOLD BROKE OFF,UNFAMILIAR WITH ROCK TYPE, POOR POSITION Nevada, Red RocksAfter the American Alpine Club Annual Meeting broke up on December 6, 1987, AAC members and friends met at the parking lot at Sandstone Quarry. As I was trav...
Annapurna Attempt. An expedition of four Spaniards and an Argentine led by Manuel González unsuccessfully attempted to climb Annapurna by the north face. On October 4, they reached 7700 meters, their high point.Elizabeth Hawley
Ilusión, Ilusión Congelada. On June 14 we established a new route on Ilusión (5,330m) in the Condoriri Group of the Cordillera Real. The 400m route had WI6X, II-III (5.3) rock, and 40- 70° snow, and required four hours to climb. The hardest and mo...
California: Sierra Nevada, Yosemite National Park.The following five accidents in this park in 1951 were reported to the American Alpine Club Safety Committee.(1) On 8 May 1951 Jerry WoIschon, 20, of Detroit, Michigan, received a compound dislocat...
Chongra Peak, Nanga Parbat Group. The expedition of the Gango Tohkoh-Kai consisted of Masahiko Kaizu, leader, Kiyoshi Hara, Tamiya Takahashi and Kyuji Sakuma. The leader was on the 1970 reconnaissance to the Chungphar Glacier of the Chongra group....
WEATHER, INADEQUATE PROTECTION—TENT VS. SNOW CAVE, ANDCLOTHINGAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 27, 1989, three members of a guided expedition on Mount McKinley were blown off the West Buttress from a camp near 5200 meters while resting inside their te...
HARRY CLAY MCDADE1924-1997A member of the American Alpine Club since 1965, Harry distinguished himself not so much by his alpinism, though he got around into a variety of mountain areas, but by the vigorous adherence to the Hippocratic Oath that h...
Union Glacier, “Mt. Hervé,” possible first ascent; Horseshoe Glacier, “High Nunatak,” possible first ascent. Previously unreported from the 2004-05 season, the Heritage 2004 Expedition comprised three alpinists/geologists of the Universidad de Chi...
Tibet’s Secret Mountain: the Triumph of Sepu Kangri. Chris Bonington and Charles Clarke. London: Weidenfeld and Nicolson, 1999. 250 pages. £20.00.This is an account of three expeditions led by Chris Bonington to a heretofore untrodden massif in Ea...
The Viking's ShieldA solo fantasy in eastern Greenland.Mike. LibhckiEastern Greenland (remote fjord, Southeast Greenland) Fantasizing is one of my favorite pastimes. The beauty of fantasizing is that you can do it, anytime, anyplace, about anythin...