A Taste of Karakoram IceExploring the early-season potential above the Trango Glacier.Dodo KopoldIn the Himalayas I don’t look for adventure on the classic routes, where you stumble over hundreds of people. I don’t look for it even on the routes t...
Five Koreans led by Kim Hyung-il attempted the east face of Jannu (presumably Jannu East, though the exact line is unknown). On April 22 they reached 5,900m, after which heavy snowfall confined them to base camp. On May 3 they started again and on...
Geographical DistrictsAccidents1947–19581959Atlantic States—North 297South 40Central 20 Colorado 536Utah & New Mexico82 Wyoming 407South Dakota01Montana & Idaho81Arizona & Nevada 51 California 523 ...
Muztagh Ata, second ascent of southeast ridge, alpine style. In order to be well-acclimatized for their alpine-style attempt on Shivling during the autumn, 26-year-old Kazuya Hiraide and 33-year-old Kei Taniguchi climbed Muztagh Ata (7,546m), maki...
California, Yosemite National Park. On December 17, Steve Roper (20) and Frank Sacherer (21) started to climb to the base of the face of Half Dome, hoping to get a little practice at easy ice climbing. They carried ice axes and crampons, but no ro...
PROTECTION PULLED OUT WHEN WEIGHTED–FALL ON ROCK, TRYING TO STICK TO A SCHEDULECalifornia, Yosemite National Park, El CapitanCraig (25) had several years of free climbing experience but little with aid. On May 29, he and his partners, Brent and Da...
Every year in Yosemite seems to bring fresh challenges, starting five years ago with my first long trad climbs and continuing year after year into longer and harder routes. This summer in the Valley was my season of aid climbing. And since I hav...
Kulu Eiger, North-Northeast Face. Two days before departing for India, I received a fax from the Indian Mountaineering Foundation indicating that the Government of India had not granted clearance for our expedition to Kishtwar. After the numbness ...
Yosemite Valley, various activity. Big wall free-climbing in Yosemite hasn’t lost its appeal, and many impressive ascents were achieved in 2004. The Leaning Tower in particular has seen a lot of recent action, probably due to its more manageable l...
Mt. Logan, South Face Attempt, and Mt. King George, Lauchlan Ridge. John Chilton, Rich Prohaska and I went to the St. Elias Mountains with the help of the John Lauchlan Award to climb the south face of Mt. Logan. We drove to Kluane Lake and waited...
Balloon Dome, various ascents. The Crucible (IV 5.11 A1). Dave Nettle and I started this route in late October 2005 and retreated from the bivy ledge atop pitch five, due to an early winter storm. Chris LaBounty, Neal Harder, and I completed the r...
New York Section. The New York Section of the AAC is blessed with a strong cadre of committed volunteers who help make it one of the most active and vibrant of the AAC’s regional Sections. Its Annual Black-Tie Dinner has hosted many of the world’s...
Stauning Alper. I have just (February) received information on a French expedition led by François Wolf with two others. They did 400 kilometers on skis and made three first ascents. They descended all the mountains by parapente, the first time th...
WILLIAM OSGOOD FIELD1904-1994It was 1941 when I first met Bill Field, a geology graduate of Harvard’s class of 1926. He had already spent some fifteen years pursuing his consuming interests of photographing, recording and cataloguing coastal glaci...
Kanchenjunga, North Face. Our expedition consisted of Swiss Guides J-P. Rieben, Bernard Polli, René Mayor, Vincent May, Marco Bruchez, Gervais Filliez, D. Michellod and me as leader, Dr. Claude Pfefferlé and Sherpa sirdar Pasang Gyalchen. After a ...
Mount Alberta’s North Face and Northeast RidgeMark WilfordInspiration FOR INVOLVEMENT with this great Canadian peak came early in my climbing career via a photo by Jim Stewart in the 1973 Ascent, entitled “Canada in Winter.” A two-page spread of M...
Richard E. McGowan 1933–2007first became acquainted with Dick McGowan more than 50 years ago when the climbing world in the United States was a small village spread across the country, connected by gossip and rumor and not the Internet. If we didn...
Minapin. A British expedition to Minapin (23,840 feet) in the Karakoram ended in tragedy. On July 7 Dennis Kemp and Walter Sharley were observing the leader, E. G. C. Warr, and F. C. Hoyte going strongly only 300 feet from the summit when a severe...
On May 22, Sam Johnson and I flew in to the Hayes Range portion of the eastern Alaska Range, looking for maximum adventure. We spent six perfectly cloudless days transporting tremendous amounts of gear around the Gillam Glacier, and then stood bel...
K2, North Ridge. In July, two expeditions met at the bottom of the north face of K2, the world’s second highest peak (8611 m). A Polish Expedition under the guidance of Krzysztof Wielicki consisted of six Poles, two Italians and two Americans. Our...