Mount Hayes. On May 12 Larry Small, Jim Johnson and I left the Richardson Highway at Donneley’s Inn, crossed the innocent-looking Delta River and were on the way to the east ridge of Mount Hayes. Although previously climbed, this ridge held our im...
P 12,300, Fairweather Range. A full article appears earlier about the ascent of P 12,300 from the Pacific Ocean to the Grand Plateau and then to the summit.
FALL INTO MOAT, DESCENDING UNROPED, POOR POSITIONAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount NublockLate in the afternoon of June 2, 1989, J.N. (44) and A.N. (65) were descending unroped from an ascent of Mount Nublock. When they reached the steep headwall ab...
Possible Base for Mountaineers in India. The Himalayan Research Institute of the Roerich Museum, 310 Riverside Drive, New York City, has established a field headquarters in the Kulu Valley, Naggar, Northern Punjab, India. A permanent group of scie...
Kamet and Abi Gamin. An eight-member expedition from Bombay was led by Shrikant Oka. It left the roadhead at Malari on May 16 and set up Base Camp at 4725 meters at Vasudhara Tal. They were in close contact with the Army team, particularly for wea...
Peaks in Wakhan and Zebak Regions. The Polish Afghan Hindu Kush Expedition was composed of two groups: from Kraków-Lublin Stanislaw Biel, leader, J. Chmielewski, H. Cioncka, A. Janota, P. Jasinski, M. Kata, M. Kowalczyk, Z. Ryn, Z. Stepek, P. Tara...
Stanford Alpine Club. The club’s activities for the 1971 spring quarter were hampered unfortunately by the wetness of the weather. Nevertheless, trips to Yosemite Valley and Pinnacles National Monument were undertaken, and several one-day practice...
Everest. Of our commercial expedition, Americans Alex Lowe, Martyn William and I, Canadian Dan Culver and Soviet Aleksei Krasnokutsky were professional climbers who, along with Sherpas and eight other expeditions, fixed the mountain and prepared t...
Yalung Kang or Kangchenjunga West. The Kyoto University Academic Alpine Club Expedition led by Dr. Haruo Higuchi and Elizaburo Nishibori made the successful ascent of this high (27,625-foot) lower summit of Kangchenjunga. The top was reached on Ma...
Chamlang Attempt. Three Frenchmen under the leadership of Laurent Hallier attempted to climb Chamlang (7319 meters, 24,014 feet) by its north face but had to quit at 6400 meters on October 22.Elizabeth Hawley
Mustagh Ata, Sinkiang. The Russians also report the ascent of 24,383- foot Mustagh Ata, July 31, 1956, by an expedition under leadership of E. Beletsky, made up of 19 Russians and 12 Chinese. Our honorary members, H. W. Tilman and E. E. Shipton, r...
WEBBING ANCHOR “BBOKE FBEE,” INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn May 28, 1991, Mark Forsythe (28) fell about 70 feet after a climbing sling apparently “broke.” He had moved the protection that was on the top of the climb and ...
Mount Bradley, South Pillar. It was reported that in 1995, Austrian Andreas Orgler climbed the 1200-meter south pillar of Mount Bradley over five days in July at a grade of VII+ and A3 with partners Neswabba and Wusther. He was awarded the Piolet ...
STRANDED, UNABLE TO FIND ROUTE, WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXHAUSTION, HYPOTHERMIA, ETC. Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn September 12, 1993, at 2330, Rocky Mountain National Park rangers were notified about an overdue part...
Nojin Kangsang, attempt from the north. During August 2000 the Japanese climber, Tadakiyo Sakahara, made the first ascent of the East Ridge as reported in AAJ 2001. The 56-year-old mountaineer returned in 2001 and set up base camp once again on th...
Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma Central (West) Summit. Our expedition was composed of leader Benoît Chamoux, Frédéric Valet, Yves Detry, Pierre Royer, French, Mauro Rossi, Italian, Josef Rokoncaj, Czechoslovakian and me, British. All seven climbers were...
FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, DARKNESS, PARTY SEPARATED— California, Mt. Mills. Steve Lester (29) of Alhambra went on alone to climb Mt. Mills when his partner Hans Torgenson (29) turned back. Lester climbed the difficult face, turned back at the summi...
Nanga Parbat Attempt on Rupal Face. A strong South Korean expedition led by Hong Seon-Yoon set up Camps I and II at 5000 and 6100 meters on June 9 and 18. They could get no higher, having only four days of good weather out of the forty they were t...
P 9650 and Attempt on Mount Hesperus, Revelation Mountains. The Revelations are located in the Lime Hills area of south-central Alaska, some 120 miles west of Anchorage. Though incredibly scenic, they lack the uniform appearance and sound rock fou...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, SELF-BELAY FAILURE Alberta, Kananaskis Valley, Kidd FallsOn November 23, S.M. (21) and a partner set off to climb the big waterfall below Mount Kidd's Gunbarrel Gully above Galatea Creek, obvious from Kananaskis...