FALL INTO CREVASSE, CLIMBING UNROPEDBritish Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Bugaboo GlacierAt 8 A.M., on July 21, 1982, Keven Donohoe (33), Jerry Murphy and Dan Prows were ascending Bugaboo Glacier, southwest of Snowpatch Spire, at an elevation of ab...
FROSTBITE-DEHYDRATION AND INADEQUATE CLOTHING, POORPHYSICAL CONDITIONAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressAbout 2100 on May 18, climbers at the 14,200-foot camp witnessed Ron Morrow (51) take a fall on the fixed lines around 16,000 feet. Morrow ma...
Climbs in the “Skykomish Alps.” The peaks south and east of the town of Index offer a variety of climbing opportunites on steep rock between 3000 and 6000 feet in elevation. All share the same kind of rock, a unique metamorphosed volcanic, which t...
FALL ON ICEAlberta, Banff National Park, Five Mile Creek, Mount Cory, DumberOn January 19, D.B. and G.H. were top-roping an ice climb known as “Dumber” above Five Mile Creek on the east slopes of Mount Cory. While attempting to step up on his cram...
Beartooths, Mt. Inabnit, Winter Pants and Moonburn. After hearing of spectacular unclimbed mixed lines on the north-facing wall of Mt. Inabnit in East Rosebud Canyon, I made two trips to the area. On November 25 Tyler Nygaard, Justin Griffin, and ...
Mt. Miller, Double Exposure—Lady With a Fan. In April Mike Lynch and I headed to Alaska for two months of climbing, skiing, and work at the Claus Ultima Thule Lodge. The northwest face of Mt. Miller in the St. Elias Range was our first objective. ...
Masang Kang. The Kyoto University expedition of 16 members was led by Ryohei Hori. On August 30 they left Thimpu and got to Base Camp at 4900 meters on September 11. They established Advance Base at 5200 meters on September 13. Camp III was establ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWisconsin, Devil's Lake State ParkTwo climbers (who are guides) were setting up individual top-ropes when John (21) heard the sound of a falling backpack. John called out to Elaine (20) and received no response. ...
Baruntse Attempt. A French expedition led by André Mathis failed to climb the northeast face and north ridge of Baruntse. Still short of the ridge, on October 17 all four members got to 6000 meters, where they had placed Camp II. Then came the big...
Mount Styx, Bella Coola Range, British Columbia, 1988. On August 28, 1988, Fred Beckey, Stimson Bullitt and I made the first ascent of Mount Styx (2713 meters, 8900 feet). The biggest obstacle to successful ascents in this region is the weather. S...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn July 16,1986, at 0946, I contacted D. Michalakis (23) in campsite #9 of the Hidden Valley Campground concerning his extended stay in the park. I confronted Michal...
Broad Peak Attempt and Ascent of P 6393. Gerard van Sprang, liaison officer Haider Ali Khan and I arrived at Base Camp on June 20. On June 25 we two Netherlanders climbed P 6393 (20,975 feet). This peak lies east of the Godwin Austen Glacier betwe...
Huandoy Sur, Crise del fe. What a crazy idea we had! Five young guys—Yann Bonneville, Benoit Chanal, Francois Dupety, Pierrick Keller, and Theo Dubois—suddenly decided to travel to a mythical destination, not yet knowing exactly where. Finally we ...
P 3385 and P2517 near San Lorenzo, 1989. S. Scarvarda and I made the first ascent of P 3385 (11,115 feet) by its west face on November 27, 1989. We climbed it in 13 hours from Camp II on the Paso de la Comisa. The peak lies three kilometers southw...
On Tuesday, October 5, with the great enthusiasm and motivation of Ivan “Topo” Rocamora, we left his flat in Mendoza for the mountains, and with 23kg on our backs—no mules in our low budget—and three hours of daylight remaining, we started up th...
Gasherbrum VI. Maria Luisa Ercalani led this expedition about which we were able to obtain no details. On the approach march a low-altitude porter on May 9 fell off a bridge near Chapko and was drowned. She claims to have climbed Gasherbrum VI (70...
Cordillera Blanca. A group from the Munich section of the Deutscher Alpenverein climbed in the summer of 1955 in the Cordillera Blanca de Huayhuash, the same region where American Alpine Club members operated a year before. They had a remarkable r...
McHenry’s Peak, Northeast Face. Dakers Gowans and I started on a right-facing corner up the center of the great spade-shaped buttress on the northeast face of McHenry’s Peak, heading for a thin vertical dihedral three pitches up. The dihedral and ...
Pinnacle Peak, Gros Ventre Range. On June 18, the first ascent of Pinnacle Peak was made by Jake Breitenbach, Stu Krebs, Stan Shepard, Pete Sinclair and me. For several years there had been rumors that this small peak appeared very difficult on al...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, UNROPEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount White PyramidEarly in February, 1990, ten members of the ACC Calgary Section set off to try a winter ascent of White Pyramid (3277 meters) from the north. On February 4, they left their ca...