Accident Reports ANAM
Frostbite, Failure to Rewarm Extremities

FROSTBITE, FAILURE TO REWARM EXTREMITIESAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 23, 1984, Doug Hansen (age unknown) reached the summit via Mount McKinley’s West Buttress. During the ascent, Hansen’s feet were numb, but he did not stop to rewarm them. On his ...


Feature Article AAJ
Gasherbrum II and III, 1975

(Editor’s note: With great regret we can not publish the whole article for reasons of space. We apologize to the author for having to leave out sections and hope the transitions will not be abrupt or confusing. The reader may wish to fill in det...

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| Published 1975 | Author Alison Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz and Polski Zwiazek Alpinizmu


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, California, Yosemite Valley, Manure Pile Buttress

FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Manure Pile ButtressOn May 23, Irene Appelbaum (41) and Ricardo Lagos (28) climbed the Nutcracker (five pitches, 5.8) on Manure Pile Buttress, with Ricardo taking all the leads. On the final pitch, he place...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Gongga Shan Tragedy

Gongga Shan Tragedy. An extraordinary tale comes from an attempt on Gongga Shan by Japanese from Hokkaido led by Akio Kawagoe. The 24 men and one woman established Base Camp on the Yan-Tsöko Glacier on April 4. Camp V was placed at 22,575 feet on ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, East Coast, Knud Rasmussens Land, 2006 Ascents

Knud Rasmussens Land, 2006 ascents. In August 2006 Jennifer Escott, Jonathan Hunter, Nick Mills, and I visited Knud Rasmussens Land, landing on the icecap at N 69°38.9', W 27°44.0'. This spot was the base camp for an out-going expedition from the ...


Accident Reports ANAM
HACE and HAPE, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress

HACE AND HAPEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 8, the “AAI-1 -Taylor” expedition arrived at base camp to start their ascent of the West Buttress. The team arrived at the 14,200-foot camp on the evening of June 14, which is very close to...


Feature Article AAJ
The Pay-off on Winter Training

EARLY in the war various members of the American Alpine Club were eager to see the U. S. Army develop considerable numbers of mountain troops and troops trained for cold weather operations. In this way it was hoped that warfare both in mountainous...

| Published N/A | Author Robert H. Bates


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Rensland, Grundtvigskirchen (1,977m), East Face, Eventyr, Milne Land, Pt. 1,295m, North Pillar North America, Greenland, East Coast

An Italian-Swiss team comprising Simon Gietl, Daniel Kopp, Roger Schali, and photographer/climber Thomas Ulrich made the first ascent of the spectacular east face of Grundtvigskirchen, a huge granite wall rising 1,325m from a point not far above t...

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| Published 2010 | Author Lindsay Griffin


In Memoriam AAJ
Robert Kenneth Brinton, 1915-1996

ROBERT KENNETH BRINTON1915-1996Robert Brinton, born in Los Angeles on January 9, 1915, was a pioneer California rock climber and skier with a contagious enthusiasm and a sprightly sense of humor. As a boy he was active with the Trailfinders, which...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Chacraraju Oests, The Lord of the Towers, to Middle Summit

Chacraraju Oeste, The Lord of the Towers, to middle summit. On July 8 and 9 Marjan Kovac and I (both from Slovenia) and Aritza Monasterio (Basque, living in Huaraz) opened a new route, The Lord of the Towers (ED+) on Chacraraju Oeste (6,112m), nor...


Feature Article AAJ
Above the Whirlwind

Above the WhirlwindRobert H. BatesAS our large plane roared up the Wolf Creek Valley, 1000 ft. above the pitted, debris-laden ice, I wondered again whether Walter Wood’s ambitious plan would work. We had discussed it in New York months before, and...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Summary

Chalten massif, summary. Several changes have taken effect in the Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre massifs, in the northern part of Los Glaciares National Park. Due to the increase in visitors, from a few hundred in the early 1980s to 20,000 in 1998 and 4...


Notes AAJ
American Alpine Club Mountaineering Fellowship Fund

American Alpine Club Mountaineering Fellowship Fund. Five young climbers were given grants in 1974 from the Mountaineering Fellowship Fund. John Lyon, James O’Neill and Rafael Gurvis were supported in their climbing in the Arrigetch Peaks of the B...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat Range, Baltoro Muztagh, Shipton Spire, Akelarre, New Route

Shipton Spire, Akelarre, New Route. The expedition took place throughout July and August. After nine days, preparing in Rawalpindi and journeying to Skardu, Jose Ramón Ezquibel, Jokin Larrañaga and I arrived in Askole, met the porters and began th...


Accident Reports ANAM
HAPE, Wyoming, Wind RIver Range

HAPEWyoming, Wind River Range(On August 20,1986, Dennis Fenstermacker [33] had to retreat from the Cirque of the Towers because of an attack of High Altitude Pulmonary Edema. Here is his account).We left Seattle on a Friday morning to drive to Wyo...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock—Dislodged by Climbers Above, Wyoming, Mount Moran,CMC

FALLING ROCK–DISLODGED BY CLIMBERS ABOVEWyoming, Mount Moran, CMCAugust 6, Jerry Painter (49), of Idaho Falls, Idaho, and three other climbers were ascending the CMC Route—a popular climbing route on the east face of Mount Moran, rated 5.5—when Pa...


Feature Article AAJ
West Face of Mount Brussels

West Face of Mount BrusselsArthur GranNEW LIMESTONE TECHNIQUESA climber’s composure is his most valuable asset on steep limestone walls of the Canadian Rockies. This calmness must be coupled with instant reactions when holds break and shift. The o...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Everest and Examples of Self-Sacrifice

Everest and Examples of Self-Sacrifice. A Spanish expedition led by Juan Carlos Gómez sucessfully completed the ascent of Everest on October 6 when Jose Antonio Garcés, Francisco José Pérez and Rafael Vidaurre reached the summit from the South Col...


Feature Article AAJ
Song of Wandering

Song of WanderingHans MoldenhauerGo West, Young Man, Go WestAT last, the bus pulled out of New York City into New Jersey, and from Pulaski Highway there was that last sight of the big town: of the skyscrapers on the battery which the newcomer hope...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Los Quemados, El Cardonal Africa, Canary Islands, Gran Caneria

Geographically in Africa, but politically in Spain, the island of Gran Canaria is home to a “mature” climbing area that has failed to get onto the radar of most climbers due to lack of information. Most of Gran Canaria is a beautiful and mou...

| Published N/A | Author Pat Littlejohn