Everest North Face Attempt. Our expedition consisted of Todd Bibler, Carlos Buhler, Dana Coffield, Mark Jennings, Douglas Kelley, Andrew Lapkass, Michael Lehner, Sandy Stewart, Ann Whitehouse, Brinton Young and me as leader. We reached 7775 meters...
Washington, Stuart Range, Mt. Stuart. On 16 October there were three separate climbing teams consisting of two climbers per team on the same route. A massive rock fall came off the ridge all funneling into the chute that the climbers were in. The ...
FALL ON ICE, BELAY DEVICE SET-UP INCORRECTLYColorado, Ouray Ice ParkAccording to reports, on February 6, a client topped out and placed his partner, a guide, on belay. In the process, the client rigged his Reverso incorrectly. Sometime during the ...
Cho Oyu in the Post-Monsoon Season. A large number of expeditions were on the Tibetan side of Cho Oyu climbing the standard route. Before his speed climb on Everest, Marc Batard made a remarkable ascent of Cho Oyu in company with Sundare Sherpa. W...
Navajolands. Spinnaker Tower was climbed free at 5.11+ by Stevie Haston and Laurence Guault. Lost Coyote Tower, a 250-foot spire located southeast of Round Rock near Rock Point, Arizona, was climbed by Fred Beckey and Dave Pollari (III 5.9 A2).
INADEQUATE PROTECTION—ICE TOOL CAME OUT, FATIGUE, EXCEEDING ABILITIESAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Ghost River, “This House of Sky” FallsAbout 1600 on January 28, after several satisfactory hours of ice climbing, G. R. and R. P. were attempting a pitc...
Mamostong Kangri. This high peak continues to attract climbing teams. An Indian ladies’ team, led by Bachendri Pal, climbed the normal route from the Mamostong Glacier, crossing the 5885-meter Mamostong col and up the east ridge. The summit (7516 ...
Stanford. The Stanford Alpine Club has 50 members, half of whom are active. Four week ends a year, the club sponsors climbs in Yosemite Valley—a rock climber’s paradise. Several week ends are spent at Pinnacles National Monument or Castle Crags St...
A.A.C., Oregon Section. 1986 was an eventful year for the Oregon Section, although we had few actual climbs to report. Our most time-consuming activity was the continuing and almost successful effort to have Mount Saint Helens opened to climbers. ...
Nanga Purbat, Diamir Face, Polish-American Expedition. Our team was made up of Poles Piotr Pustelnik, leader, Józef Gozdzik, Marek Grochowski, Leszek Sikora, Dr. Piotr Jedlikowski and me from the United States. After difficult and sometimes unplea...
Josef Pollinger, of St. Niklaus, died in 1943 at the age of 70. One of the great guides of all time, he was the last survivor of Edward Whymper’s expedition to the Rockies in 1901. Mt. Pollinger is named for him. His first ascents in that season w...
La Connaissance de la Montague, by Paul Payot. 127 pages. Bonneville: Imprimerie Plancher, 1944.This little volume was published as a compendium of the instruction material used at the Centre á l’École des Cadres. Although directed principally at ...
Antarctic Peninsula, Various Ascents. It was reported that in February, 1997, Greg Mortimer led an Australian team that made a number of ascents from their boat, Professor Molchanov. The team climbed the central peak of Ronge Island; a 600-meter p...
FALL ON SNOW—UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, CLIMBING ALONE, HASTE—RESULTING IN WEARING ROCK SHOES ON SNOWWashington, Mount StuartAfter summiting Mount Baker in the early morning of July 9,1 drove about 3/4 of the way to Seattle and got a hotel room to dry...
Pucajirca Tragedy. A nine-man expedition from Bergamo was led by Bruno Berlendis. On July 14 five of the members were about 100 meters below the top of the west face of the highest of the Pucajircas when a huge avalanche swept them off. Rocco Berl...
Prospectors Mountain, Northeast Face Direct, Previously Underreported. The Northeast Face Direct route (IV 5.11a Al) went up in ground-up traditional style over two days in September, 1999, with only two bolts placed (on lead). The climbing is var...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INADEQUATE BELAYNew Hampshire, Whitehorse Ledge, Standard RouteIn July, a father of unknown age and his 14-year-old son were climbing Standard Route on Whitehorse Ledge. The father was leading the crux layback ...
Kula Kangri Region, 1993. A seven-member climbing-and-scientific French party, including geologist Arnaud Pêcher, visited the Kula Kangri area in southern Tibet on the Border with Bhutan. Base Camp was at 4450 meters below the northern foot of Kul...
Bunnell Point—Northwest Face. This wide, smooth face rises above the Merced River at the east end of Little Yosemite Valley. It was first attempted in 1975 by Mead Hargis and J.P. de St. Croix. Robb Dellinger and I returned and completed their rou...
Mount Redoubt. Bob Gerhard, Larry Van Slyke, Mark Skok and I had planned a winter ascent of Mount Redoubt (3108 meters, 10,197 feet), but bad weather and other commitments delayed our departure for a month. On April 4 Lowell Thomas, Jr. landed us ...