Nanga Parbat. Sixteen Czechs, led by Ivan Galfy, made the fourth ascent of Nanga Parbat (26,660 feet) and the second by the Rakhiot route, which cost so many German and Sherpa lives before Hermann Buhl finally made his solo ascent in 1953. Hampere...

Aconcagua. The 23,036-foot summit of the Americas was climbed several times in the past year. The most notable was the French ascent of the South Face, which rises 10,000 feet above Puente del Inca in the Horcones Valley. The climbers compared it ...

Washington, Snoqualmie Pass area, Alta Mt. On 21 May a party of eleven led by Fred Wright left their cars at 0630 and hiked north, on the east side of Gold Creek, for about 2 hours, then headed up Rampart Ridgearriving at the scene of the accident...

FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HATColorado, Boulder FallsDuring the afternoon on March 6, a person reported a fallen climber in the area behind Boulder Falls by flagging down a United States Forest Service employee, who in turn reported the incident by rad...

Gasherbrum I Attempt and Tragedy. Our international expedition had as members Americans Barbara Shelonzek, Errol Altay, German Gerhard Schnass, Italians Marco Bianchi, Paolo Bernascone, Giorgio Passino, Kurt Walde, Poles Mariusz Sprutta, Dr. Lech ...

Foraker’s Infinite SpurMark BebieWEATHER FOCUSES YOUR CHOICESin the mountains. Jim Nelson and I read many books during the three weeks we spend at the 14,000-foot camp on Denali. That, and a lot of skiing—the storms are dropping much dry powder. W...

Manirang, Saponang and Ghunsarang, Spiti. The second phase of the Indo-British expedition was equally successful, with the third ascent of Manirang, the first ascents of Saponang and Ghunsarang and the crossing of the Manirang Pass. After four day...

EAST OF THE HIMALAYA "Overview" "Part I: East Tibet" "Part II: Three Rivers Gorges of The Hengduan Mountains" "Part III: West Sichuan Highland-Yangtze River Basin" Topographically, the area from the River of Golden Sand to wester...

This is the thirty-fourth issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the fifth that has been edited and published jointly by The American Alpine Club and the Alpine Club of Canada.Canada: This issue includes a number of reports from 1...

Dingjung Ri South, first authorized attempt from Nepal. Three members of Japan’s Kwansie Gakuin University Alpine Club, Mayuto Demoko, Kenro Nakajima, and Naoki Tenaka, made the first authorized attempt on the east ridge of Pt. 6,196m, which might...

Tomaž Humar 1969–2009Tomaž Humar’s first climbing experiments took place in the basement of the family home, where he leapt from beam to beam above his father’s tools. He soon ventured out to the nearby Kamnik crags, clad in his first harness: a d...

Fred Beckey’s 100 Favorite North American Climbs. Fred Beckey. Introduction by Barry Blanchard. Patagonia Books, 2011. 350 pages. Color photos. Hardcover. $79.95.Fred Beckey’s 100 Favorite North American Climbs is the culmination of 75 years of mo...

Mt. Teddy, First Ascent, and Mt. Logan, Hummingbird Ridge, Thunderbird Variation. Paul Claus flew Christian Zinsli and I to base camp on the Seward Glacier at 1800 meters on May 28. Two days later, we had established Camp I at 2400 meters directly...

The American Alpine Club grants program provides resources for climbers and explorers to attempt new challenges, conduct scientific research, and push the envelope of human accomplishment in mountain and polar environments.For more information on ...

Another Level“Explorers of the Infinite” asks a basic question: Why?Maria CoffeyAsk mountaineers why they are compelled to climb, and more often than not their answer is, “Tt makes me feel alive.” But what does this mean? And what is it about this...

This Game of Ghosts. Joe Simpson. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1994. 320 pages, black-and-white photographs. $24.95.Joe Simpson’s second volume of autobiography is just as exciting and impressively written as its predecessor, Touching the Void, his ...

Chakachamna Peak, south face to near summit. Fred Beckey had his eye on a prominent 7,530' peak in the Neacola Mountains for many years, but it remained entombed in his infamous “Black Book.” The peak is located three miles south of Lake Chakacham...

Balti Place Names in the KarakoramH. Adams CarterMUCH of the eastern Karakoram lies in Baltistan, a region inhabited by Muslims who speak a Tibetan dialect. Having been converted to Islam half a millenium ago, the Baltis speak a language which is ...

FALL ON FROZEN SCREE, FALL INTO CREVASSE, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, CLIMBING ALONE, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCEOregon, Mount Hood, South Side and Cathedral RidgeIn late August, Bob Considine (38) was visiting Oregon from Missour...

La Esfinge, East Face, Free Ascent. Ralph Ferrara and John Reyner freed the 1985 route on the east face of La Esfinge on August 14-15. They had attempted the route in June, managing four pitches. It is possibly the second free ascent of the route;...