Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Montana, Beehive Mountain, South Face, Spanish Peaks

Beehive Mountain, South Face, Spanish Peaks. On October 18 Craig Zaspel and I packed into the Spanish Peaks Primitive Area from the Big Sky Ski Resort. We approached the peak via Beehive Basin, which led us directly to the base of the rock. Our ro...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Northwest Mox Peak, Chilliwacks, West Ridge

Northwest Mox Peak, Chilliwacks, West Ridge. A third ascent and new route was done on the northwest Mox Peak by Dan Hendricks, Bill Van de Graaff, Marilyn Loranger, and me on August 13. This route begins nearly at the top of the highest snow finge...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park

Zion National Park. Jim Dunn and Dean Tspapport did a new route on Angel’s Landing, free and aid with large belay ledges and no bolts. NCCS V, F10, A4. Ron Olevsky climbed Cerberus Gendarme, a 900-foot face across from Angel’s Landing. He climbed ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, West Kahiltna Peak, North Face, and Traverse to East Kahiltna Peak

West Kahiltna Peak, North Face, and Traverse to East Kahiltna Peak. On June 13 Bertl Breyer and I made the first ascent of the north face of West Kahiltna Peak in seven hours. The main difficulties were in the bottom third of the 3000-foot ice fac...


Accident Reports ANAM
Washington, Cascade Range, Mt. Si

Washington, Cascade Range, Mt. Si—On January 26 Clark Phillips (19), Rick Cummings, and Claude Harmon set out to climb the west face of Mt. Si. The weather was mild and they were lightly dressed in cotton shirts and wearing leather soled oxfords. ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Drum, Southwest Ridge

Mount Drum, Southwest Ridge. After being held up for five days at 5000 feet by rain and snow, on August 26 we Swiss, Heinz Allemann and I made the second ascent of Mount Drum (12,010 feet) by a new route, the southwest ridge. This ridge may be cal...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California - Yosemite, Nevada Flake, The Slot Machine

Nevada Flake, The Slot Machine. In September, 1969, Scott Baxter and I did an enjoyable route located about 30 feet left of the center route. Starting in a small black dihedral, ascend via mixed free and aid to a belay in slings. Continued mixed c...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Pisco Oeste, South Face, and Chopicalqui, Southwest Face

Pisco Oeste, South Face, and Chopicalqui, Southwest Face. A number of new routes have been done on the south face of Pisco in the past few years. It is not altogether clear just where these routes have been made. Maurice Barrard made a route he be...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face Attempt

Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face Attempt. Dr. Karl Herrligkoffer’s German expedition returned in the late winter to the face which had been reconnoitered in 1963. (A.A.J., 1964, 14:1, p. 232.) After their arrival on February 28, they had bad weather nearl...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Olympic Mountains, Belvedere Peak, Northwest Ridge

Belvedere Peak, Northwest Ridge. This new route on this 7528-foot peak was completed on August 27 by Jim Parolini and Joe Munson. From the glacial valley north of Belvedere and Sundial they ascended to the low point in the Belvedere-Adelaide ridge...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington-Cascade Mountains, Winter Climbing in the Snoqualmie Pass Area

Winter Climbing in the Snoqualmie Pass Area. Winter climbing has become quite popular on these small but rugged peaks. The area sports many excellent, short alpine climbs possible in one day from Seattle. The north face of Chair Peak and the south...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, The Derbyshire Himalayan Expedition

The Derbyshire Himalayan Expedition. Basil Poff and I reconnoitered the Pir Pinjal range in Kulu during June and July, 1958. We selected Indrasan (20,410 feet), an unclimbed peak at the head of the Malana glacier as a likely objective for a strong...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Ladakh-Kashmir, Kang Yisay

Kang Yisay. An Indian expedition set up Base Camp at 17,000 feet on August 20 and Camp I at 18,600 feet the following day. Naseer Ahmed Mir, Fayez Ahmed Bala and Showkat Hussain Mir left Camp I at 5:30 A.M. on August 22. They started up the northe...


Book Reviews AAJ
Ddas Wallis

Das Wallis, by Maurice Zermatten. Translated from the French by Hans Grossrieder. 16 pages of text and 80 full-page illustrations from photographs by Benedikt Rast. Lausanne: Verlag Jean Marguerat, 1941. Price, $4.50.


Notes AAJ
United States, Cascades: Turnwater Firsts

Cascades: Tumwater Firsts. On 2 May 1948 Fred Beckey, Ralph Widrig, Joe Hieb and Wesley Grande climbed the imposing Tumwater Tower on the S. side of the Wenatchee River’s Tumwater Canyon. They used numerous pitons in granite cracks. A 70-foot stre...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Miangul Sar

Miangul Sar. The Austrian Wolfgang Stefan, accompanied by N. Norris, made the first ascent of Miangul Sar (19,554 feet).


Notes AAJ
A New Map of Mount Everest

A New Map of Mount Everest. For nearly 50 years I have dreamt of making a very detailed map of the Mount Everest area, using all the most modem tools of photogrammetry. As time went by, aerial cameras, lenses and aircraft continually improved and ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chilean and Argentine Patagonia, San Lorenzo

San Lorenzo. In the first days of December, 1971 Bill Stephenson and I flew by light aircraft from Coyhaique to the small village of Cochrane, a little west of Lago Cochrane and close to the junction of the Río Baker and Río Salto. We continued by...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna

Annapurna. A seven-man Spanish expedition led by Joaquín Colorado made the 21st ascent of Annapurna by the Dutch Rib on the north face. On October 3, Pablo Aldai and Juan Fernando Azcona reached the summit.Elizabeth Hawley


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Yanamarey Sur, West Ridge

Yanamarey Sur, west ridge. On July 8 Chilean-North American Evelio Echevarría and Peruvian Alberto Murguía approached via the Queracocha Valley and climbed the west ridge of Yanamarey Sur (5,220m). This may be a new route and the second ascent of ...