Mount Kennedy. The Canadian government has given the name of Mount Kennedy, in honor of the late president, to the lovely mountain which lies just east of Mounts Alverstone and Hubbard, peaks on the Yukon-Alaskan border. The coordinates of the new...
Ubekendt Ejland, West Greenland. A University of St. Andrews party revisited the mountains of Akuliaruseq peninsula and of Upernivik Island in the Umanak district of West Greenland at 71°N, (A.A.J., 1968, p. 182; A.A.J., 1970, p 153). We were on t...
Cathedral Arch, Bats in the Belfry. In June, I got a call from Jeff Lowe asking if I would film and photograph an attempt on a new route in remote Arch Canyon, 25 miles west of Blanding in southeast Utah. I hardly ever turn down a job that pays me...
Shishapangma, notes on the Lafaille ascent and winter season. When the Nepalese Government established a winter season for the Nepal Himalaya lasting from December 1 to February 15, their rules also stated that while camps could be established abo...
Climbing Mount Everest, The Bibliography: The Literature and History of Climbing the World’s Highest Mountain. Compiled by Audrey Salkeld and John Boyle. Sixways Publishing, Clevedon BS21 7SL, England, 1993. 120 pages, soft cover. $20.As a leading...
Sinister Peak, North Face. My brother Carl, Gary Brill and I completed this snow face on August 1. Starting from the Blizzard-Gunsight Col we made a quick traverse across the Chickamin Glacier in order to gain the face at its lowest point. On 45° ...
Charlotte Dome. John Liebeskind and I climbed Shake it like a Bowl of Soup, a beautiful 11-pitch route on the dome’s 1000-foot south face. Our route left the classic Rowell-Jones-Beckey line after the first fifth-class pitch and angled far right f...
FALLING ROCK California, Yosemite ValleyAt 2 p.m. on June 12, Larry Fennern (29) was climbing The Caverns route (5.7) when he was struck by a falling rock. Fennern was on the third pitch when the accident occurred. A party of four other climbers g...
FitzRoy. The expedition of the Centro Andino Buenos Aires was unsuccessful in its attempt to climb FitzRoy although it was composed of some of the best Argentine mountaineers, José Luis Fonrouge, Jorge Peterek, Carlos Comesaña and Jorge Insúa.Vojs...
Climbs in Wasatch Mountains. Mark McQuarrie and I made the first winter ascent of the northeast face of Mount Ogden. The nine leads took eight hours in a bad snowstorm. The crux pitch was an ice-and-snow-filled chimney topped by an overhang in the...
FALL ON SNOWAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Moraine Lake, 3-3½ CouloirOn July 10, 1981, a party of two were climbing the 3-3½ Couloir, unroped, en route to the Graham Cooper Hut. Approximately three quarters of the way up, one climber stopped to adjust ...
Cerro Ojos del Salado, Possible New Route, and Other Activity. Among the many teams active in the region, two Brazilian teams made climbing attempts; one was unsuccessful on Ojos del Salado and Pissis, while the other party claimed a new route, th...
Los Andes, 400 Años Después by Antonio Aymat. Madrid: Doncel, 1963. 340 pages; illustrations.In view of the Spanish conquests of the sixteenth century, it is paradoxical to note contemporary Spain’s lack of involvement in mountaineering and explor...
Mount Gerdine. Shinji Kaneko, leader, Seiji Hirokawa, Keichiro Noda, Minoru Tanaka, Tomayasu Yagai and Tatsuo Yoshizawa of Tokyo Electrical Engineering College were flown to 4500 feet on presumably the Triumvirate Glacier on May 24 by Erik Barnes....
Great Lakes Section. In January the first Ice Pit Festival was held in Green Bay, Wisconsin, where 110-foot vertical walls provided an almost instant pump for 100 new climbers. The Section staffed a booth and participated in a membership drive and...
Glaciology in the St. Elias Range. A long-term program for the scientific investigation of a glacial area in terms of its total environment was initiated in 1961 under the dual sponsorship of the American Geographical Society and the Arctic Instit...
Kanchenjunga, North Face Direct. Our expedition, led by Masatsugu Konishi, without oxygen climbed a new route on the north face of Kanchenjunga to the right of the British route of 1971. The face rises for 11,500 feet above the head of the Kanchen...
Nevado Rúrec, Brevete Seguro. On May 23, Koki Castañeda, Williams Dávalos, Saúl Angeles, Chinchilla Zárate, Toni Ortiz and Félix Vicencio made a possible first ascent on Nevado Rúrec (5700m) via the southwest ridge of the south face. The route, Br...
Climbers’ Exchange Program in Yugoslavia. All too many times we were to hear a phrase that summed up our trip to Yugoslavia. “Climbing is a serious business.” Ajax Greene and I were selected by the American Alpine Club to represent the Club on the...
Attempt on Koh-e-Iblar, near Koh-e-Bandaka. The Rissho University party consisted of Kyoichi Mochizuki, leader, Hideo Suzuki, Hiroshi Morita, Kikuo Goto, Toshio Mochizuki, Meiji Terada and Masaoki Ogawa. After leaving Kabul on July 10, they travel...