STRANDED, OFF ROUTEColorado, Eldorado Canyon State ParkOn March 4, a male climber (23) and his friend began to rappel the Redguard route sometime around 7:00 p.m. They quickly realized they had descended in the wrong spot and had become stuck. The...
Cho Oyu, North Face. Our expedition scouted the previously almost unknown north face of Cho Oyu and climbed a fine direct route. The face is impressive: four kilometers wide and more than 2000 meters high. It is hidden by smaller peaks in front of...
Crag Climbing. Crag climbing began in the desert at Indian Creek in the 1970s, when the majority of routes established on the vertically fractured Wingate walls were one or two pitches in length and easily protected with the newly developed cammin...
AVALANCHE, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, WEATHERAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade Mountain, “Urs Hole” FallsSometime on February 24, two ice climbers (both 20) were hit by an avalanche while climbing the waterfall route “Urs Hole”, near Banff. Both died. O...
Teram Kangri. Teram Kangri (7433 meters, 24,485 feet) rises near the junction of the Teram Shehr and the Siachen Glaciers. It was climbed in 1992 by and Indian army team led by Colonel M.S. Gill. More details are awaited.Harish Kapadia, Editor, Hi...
Colorado Mountain Club. For the Colorado Mountain Club 1948 was a busy year, though not spectacular. Trips sponsored by the Denver Group, varying from picnics and easy one-day walks to climbs of 14,000-ft. peaks, produced some 2300 safe man-days i...
Colorado Mountain Club. The Colorado Mountain Club has about 7500 members in groups throughout the state. The largest is the Denver Group with about 4600 members. There are also the Denver Wilderness Kids Group for families with pre-teenagers and ...
Mt. VesuviusUp to the beginning of the Christian era this volcano (ca. 4000 ft.) is not known to have been in eruption. After centuries of inactivity, earthquakes culminated in the great explosion of August 24, A.D. 79, an account of which has bee...
Mt. Shinn, Northeast Face. It was reported that Ralph Dujmovits led a four-member team that made the first ascent of the easy northeast face of Mt. Shinn (4557m) in December, 1995. They then climbed the southeast flank (50°) of Mt. Avalanche (3950...
Kula Kangri, Second Ascent. An Austrian expedition consisting of Gerhard Berger, Anton Dollfuss, Dr. Martin Donner, Kurt Ebner, Helmut Ortner, Otto Plattner and me left Kathmandu on April 14, crossed into Tibet at Kodari and traveled east through ...
Whitney Portal Buttress, Clouds. Seen from below, Whitney Portal Buttress is a large slab divided into two halves by a deep chimney descending from the top. Three routes already ascended the left half, the first done by Fred Bee key in 1967. In No...
Iliamna, Winter Ascent. After landing us on the tricky Tuxedni Glacier, Lowell Thomas, Jr. said that he would take no more climbers to this mountain because of poor landing sites and unstable weather, but he did a fine job for us. Our original obj...
Kabru Dome. Our joint Franco-Indian Army expedition led by Colonel Bal- want Sandhu and me had as its objective training for the expedition we hoped to carry out on Kangchenjunga. When permission for this was refused, we later turned to Kamet. (Se...
Ama Dablam. Nelson Max, Bruce Cox, Dave Karl, Ron Norton, Chip Kamin and I arrived at 15,000 feet at the normal Ama Dablam Base Camp above Mingbo on March 26. Though the weather had been clear for a week, it began a predictable pattern of clear mo...
New Altitudes in the Chaltén (Fitz Roy) Area. Until now, heights in use have come from the basic survey made by Professor Luis Lliboutry, a member of the French expedition that in 1952 made the first ascent of Chaltén (Fitz Roy). His task was meri...
Masherbrum from the Northwest and Broad Peak. The Kansai Karakoram Expedition left Skardu and after traveling up the Baltoro Glacier, established Base Camp on the Yermanendu Glacier at 4600 meters. They placed Camp I at 5600 meters on the north ri...
Powell Peak, East Face. On July 4 John Byrd, Dakers Gowans and I climbed a new route, probably the first, on the east face of Powell Peak. We followed a direct line just left of the center of the smooth main wall and right of a huge, left-leaning ...
Flake Buttress and North Face, Squaretop. Squaretop Mountain bears a striking similarity to the Devils Tower. Upon our arrival at Lower Green River Lake, Ron Niccoli and I clearly observed the giant “flake buttress” that ended in the north face so...
Huandoy. In early July Germans Heinrich Gentner and Reinhard Siegl climbed Huandoy Norte and Sur via the eastern couloir (Garganta) route from the Cook Glacier; they established camp in the central basin. They reported technical ice conditions in ...
Dhaulagiri IV Attempt. The British Royal Air Force Dhaulagiri IV Expedition was led by Wing Commander D. le R. Bird and had 14 members. They were attempting Dhaulagiri IV (25,133 feet) from the Barun Khola to the north. Camp I was established at 1...