P 5854, P 6025, P 5895 and Z2, Zanskar Range. Our expedition was composed of Gianni Calcagno, leader, Giustino Crescimbeni, Mario Pelizzaro, Stefano De Benedetti and me. From the Kargil-Padum road, we ascended the Rundum valley to Base Camp at 13,...
Switzerland, edited by Doré Ogrizek and J. G. Rufenacht for the “World in Color Series.” 273 pages, with pictorial maps and more than 200 illustrations in color, as well as monotone reproductions of old prints. New York: McGraw-Hill Book Co., 1949...
Granite Peak, North Face, Beartooth Mountains. On July 12, William Chadwick and I climbed the north face of Granite Peak (12,799 feet). The approach from the Mystic Lake hydroelectric plant took 1½ days. We bypassed Huckleberry Lake to the east an...
Yalung Kang, South Face. A Polish team was led by Tadeusz Karolczak. They had no Sherpas and a low-altitude porters’ strike delayed their arrival at the Yalung Glacier. They set up Base Camp, and Camps I and II at 5200, 6250 and 6700 meters on Sep...
In August 2003 a six-member British party comprising: Kate Boobyer, Derek and Sarah Fuller, Derek’s parents Brian and Sue Fuller, and Flenry Lickorish, climbed a total of 23 peaks on Sermersoq, the island immediately north of Nanortalik in South G...
Cascades: First Ascent of the S.W. Face of Sloan Peak. On 31 July 1948 Jack Schwabland and Fred Beckey, inquiring into possibilities on the rounded, sheer W. face of Sloan Peak, found that the lower portion of the S. face was climbable. A series o...
Gabral Valley. The Kyoto University of Education Expedition was led by Tatsuya Harada and further composed of Toshikazu Oze, Masao Horiike, Yuzuru Domiri, Kazuo Hashimoto, Kazuo Takano and Gyoichi Hidani. In early June they explored the Gabral val...
Everest Winter Attempt by Koreans, 1987. Another South Korean expedition, led by Park Young-Bae, was attempting a winter ascent of the British route on the southwest face of Mount Everest. On January 30, 1987, Tsuttin Dorje Sherpa fell to his deat...
El Potro. A detachment of the Gendarmería Nacional (Territorial Military Police) of Argentina covered 500 miles of desert, more than three-fourths of it on muleback, to reach the base of a peak thought to be El Potro (“The stallion”). The peak was...
Cordillera Blanca, other activity. The following information supplements the new routes individually reported above.In addition to their climbs on La Esfinge (above), Polish climbers Arkadiusz Grzadziel, Boguslaw Kowalski, and Jerzy Stefanski adde...
Annapurna Ascent and Tragedy. An expedition of 14 Czechoslovaks and an Italian led by Petr Schnabl climbed Annapurna via the northwest face. On October 1, Dr. Jirí Pelikan was returning from accompanying the summit pair to Camp VI at 8000 meters w...
Chinchey Central, Directa Alberto Vittone. On May 19 Peruvian climbers Elias Flores, Michel Araya, Miguel Martinez, and Quique Apolinario, all Don Bosco de los Andes guides, started their journey from the town of Huantar to the Quebrada Rurichinch...
RAPPEL FAILURE–MULTIPLE CAUSES Washington, Frenchman's CouleeAround 2:00 p.m. on March 7, Robert Peruchini (41) and his partner, Ms. Teri Martin (52), climbed the traditional basalt pillar route known as “Pumping the Pigeon” (5.8) on Sunshine Wall...
K12. The Ichikawa Alpine Club Expedition was led by Tatsuro Arioka. They got only to 20,350 feet on K 12 (24,370 feet) because of supply delays, illness, crevasses and bad weather.ICHIRO YOSHIZAWA, A.A.C. and Japanese Alpine Club
Broad Peak. Our expedition consisted of Jean-Jacques Rolland, his wife Martine Rolland, Mlle Catherine Pernot (doctor), Denis Chatrefou, Alain Cokkinos, Christian Nuytten, Jacques Giraud, Reinmar Joswig and me as leader. We arrived at Base Camp at...
Mt. Burney, second ascent. Mt. Burney (1,768m) is a volcano that stands near the northwest corner of the Muñoz Gamero penninsula, which is about 2,000 square miles in area. Though it is a familiar landmark seen from ships passing through Smyth and...
Andes, Argentine. Jesús Casanova, Ricardo Gallop, and Renzo Vidoni of the Club Andinista Mendoza made the first ascent of all three of the Tres Picos del Amor (18,054, 18,044, and 17,933 feet). After a long approach they established their high cam...
Cancaracá Group. Nine members of the Royal Dutch Alpine Club, eight Dutch and one Peruvian, Dr. Dolf Noordijk, Fons Driessen, Daniel Paz y Geuze, Robbert and Hannie Vermeer, Jan and Anna van Royen, my wife Liesbeth and I, made a very interesting r...
Everest Attempt. Our expedition hoped to climb Everest by the North Col route without high-altitude porters or artificial oxygen. We were six climbers: Luis Bernardo, Pedro Nicolás, Salvador Rivas, Angel Sánchez, Carlos Soria and I as leader; Dr. ...
Washington Cascades, Mt. Index. On 21 August Craig Keyes (27) was climbing a difficult route on Mt. Index alone. He lost his grip on a 40-foot, near-vertical wall, fell about 20 feet and tumbled another 20 feet and landed on a ledge. Other climber...