Cordillera Blanca. A group from the Munich section of the Deutscher Alpenverein climbed in the summer of 1955 in the Cordillera Blanca de Huayhuash, the same region where American Alpine Club members operated a year before. They had a remarkable r...
McHenry’s Peak, Northeast Face. Dakers Gowans and I started on a right-facing corner up the center of the great spade-shaped buttress on the northeast face of McHenry’s Peak, heading for a thin vertical dihedral three pitches up. The dihedral and ...
Pinnacle Peak, Gros Ventre Range. On June 18, the first ascent of Pinnacle Peak was made by Jake Breitenbach, Stu Krebs, Stan Shepard, Pete Sinclair and me. For several years there had been rumors that this small peak appeared very difficult on al...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, UNROPEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount White PyramidEarly in February, 1990, ten members of the ACC Calgary Section set off to try a winter ascent of White Pyramid (3277 meters) from the north. On February 4, they left their ca...
Peak Above Khurdopin Glacier. Andrew Bradley, Richard Osborne, John DeBank, Paul Simpkin, Tony Briggs, Dr. Luke Hughes-Davis and I journeyed up the Karakoram Highway to Pasu. There we engaged 15 porters and a cook for the walk to Base Camp. From t...
Huandoy Group. On July 14 an Italian expedition led by Carlo Zonta with Francesco Santon as deputy set up Base Camp at the Llanganuco Lakes at 12,300 feet. The next day they placed Camp I at 15,750 feet at the foot of the south face of Huandoy Sur...
Pik Eight Women Climbers, west face; Pik Bayancol, southeast ridge; Pik Kazakhstan, southeast ridge. Boris Dedeshko, Gennady Durov, and Denis Urubko made the second ascent of Pik Eight Women Climbers (Pik Vosni Alpinistok or Mramornaya Stena Yuzhn...
Annapurna South. The Japanese Gamagori Alpine Club Expedition was led by Tsuneo Suzuki. They attempted 23,683-foot Annapurna South or Moditse by a new route, the southwest ridge. From Camp III at 18,375 feet, on April 26 two members reached 19,700...
Pikes Peak Atlas, by Robert M. Ormes. Boulder, Colorado: Johnson Publishing Co., 1959. 28 pages with 21 sketch maps. Price: $3.50.Few people know the Colorado Rockies as well as Bob Ormes (Author of Guide to the Colorado Mountains, Denver: Sage Bo...
AAC, New York Section. The year 1998 will be remembered for a number of significant events. In January, a group of 14 New York Section members and guests journeyed to New Zealand’s South Island for two weeks of trekking, climbing and outdoor pursu...
Ross Peak, Northeast Face Direct, Bridger Range. On June 28 Gary Skaar, Kurt Martinsen and I packed via the middle fork of Brackett Creek to this relatively unknown face, which is hidden by a lateral moraine. In the afternoon we climbed two short ...
Ruwenzori, Africa. Piero Ghiglione celebrated his 77th birthday by making the first ascent of the west face of the Punta Alexandra (16,725 feet) in the Ruwenzori group. On this climb, which took place on January 25, 1960, the Italian veteran was a...
P 8000 (“Grendel”). I returned to the Cathedral Spires with Chris and Arthur Manix, hoping to make the first ascent of a peak of 8000 feet with twin east and west summits, about one mile southwest of Augustin Peak. We waited on the Trident Glacier...
Bear Mountain, East Ridge, Chilliwacks. On August 15 Bill Van de Graaff, Marilyn Loranger, Dan Hendricks, Roger Fahy, Al Tatyrek, John Stout, and I climbed Bear Mountain’s long, ragged east ridge, joining the established route at the notch about 1...
Moses, Canyonlands National Park. A new route was put up on Moses Tower by Steve Green, Doug Snively, Jim Dunn and Kurt Rasmusson. The route was to the right of the first-ascent line, roughly up the northwest edge of the rock. The two routes meet ...
Mount Hunter, Route on and beside the North Buttress. Billy Ireland from North Ireland and Ulf Björnberg of Sweden made a new route on and to the right of the north buttress of Mount Hunter from July 1 to 7. It was mostly on snow and ice. It was r...
Washington, Cascades, Snoqualmie Pass area—On October 5, Gerald Burns (25) and two companions were hiking across country to a lake for fishing. The terrain was generally steep but with adequate ledges for safe travel. While crossing a steep gulley...
Ausangate, Jatunhuma, and other peaks, Cordillera Vilcanota. Our expedition was composed of seven members of the Academic Alpine Club Munich: Arnulf Rother, leader, Gundolf Engelmann, Uwe Kerner, Hans Albert Mayer, Michael Schneider, Dr. Karl Wink...
On August 11 around 1100, our party of four climbers in two groups proceeded up the route “The Uneventful” (5.5) at Tahquitz Rock. We did not plan to summit, only rappel down after completing four pitches. I led the first group up three pitches wi...
Mount Sanford, Attempt on South Ridge. On June 10 Milt Johnson, Dave Shaw, Don Stockard and I were flown to the saddle south of Mount Sanford. While relaying supplies to the base of the ridge at 14,000 feet, Milt aggravated an old knee injury and ...