A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. The last two years have seen a continuation of the social events that have become traditional activities for many Section members, as well as an increased involvement in several climbing area problems. 1983 began wit...
Hassin Peak and the East Peak of Farol, attempts. On August 12 Steve Swenson and I, joined by Hans Mitterer from Germany, hiked up to the base of the west buttress of unclimbed Hassin Peak (ca. 6,300m) at the head of the Charakusa Glacier. Hassin ...
Everest in the Pre-Monsoon. Thirty-seven men (no women) climbed Everest this spring from Nepal in a rather straightforward fashion. No one suffered serious frostbite, altitude-measuring devices were installed at the summit, several hundred empty o...
Nanga Purbat, Diamir Face. Czechs Josef Rakoncaj, leader, Josef Nežerka, Michal Bruner, Martin Kejr, Miroslav Mžourek and German Günter Koch established Base Camp below the Diamir Face on June 12. Camps were placed on the Kinshofer route. After a ...
LIGHTNING – IGNORED CLOUD BUILD UP, POOR POSITION, FALL ON ROCK, UNKNOWN RAPPEL ERROR – EXACERBATED BY COLD HANDS AND INEXPERIENCEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonPrior to the beginning of this storm, members of all parties described...
Staunings Alps, Various Ascents. Expedition members Colwyn Jones (leader), John Bickerdike, Ian Angell, Brian Shackleton, Gordon and Susan MacKenzie, Jonathon Preston and Stephen Reid were fortunate to be landed by a ski-equipped Twin Otter on Col...
The Pressure Melting Point of Ice and the Excavation of Cirques and Valley Steps by GlaciersJoel E. FisherRecent studies1 have developed a now well-established principle that outside the arctic the temperature of all glaciers 10 or 20 meters below...
Michael S. Martin 1940 - 2001Michael S. Martin drowned September 6, 2001, near the completion of a solo hike up the Upper Black Box Canyon in Utah. He was 61 years old. Mike had recently returned to Denver from a trip to the Tetons and had spent 1...
Exploring Idaho’s Mountains: A Guide for Climbers, Scramblers and Hikers. Tom Lopez. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1990. 288 pages, black-and-white photographs, maps, appendices, index. $16.95 (paper).Idaho has countless summits scattered across, by ...
Alpine Ways is first and last a picture book; the text serves merely as an introduction to and commentary on Mr. Smythe’s photographs. It is adequate to this purpose, but one would have been grateful for the photographic data—choice of stops, leng...
Argentine Patagonia, Various Ascents, and Second Ascent of Condorito. (This account complements the brief notes in last year’s volume, pp. 281-2.) On January 29, 1998, Michael Richter and I climbed Guillaumet via the Col de Droite. On February 4, ...
RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILURE—ROCK RROKE LOOSE, FALL ON ROCKWashington, Mount StuartOn July 10, Kris Stout (30) and his climbing partner had waited out a storm on Mount Stuart before beginning their descent. Stout was preparing to descend by rope when he ...
Tayapampa, Jancarurish and Other Peaks, 1980. Our expedition consisted of Franz Scheikl, Dr. Martin Donner, Rüdiger Pinter, Herbert Schütter, Hans Gregoritsch, Sepp Halzmann, Willi Trinker and me. We drove to Base Camp at 13,375 feet in the upper ...
North Chasm View Wall, Black Planet, Second Ascent and New Variation. Over the period of March 15-25,1 left my home in Gunnison and soloed what I believe to be the second ascent of Jim Beyer’s route, Black Planet, in Black Canyon National Monument...
FALLING ROCKNevada, Red Rocks Canyon NCAOn May 2, on the fifth pitch of the Original Route (5.9,A2) on the Rainbow Wall in Red Rock Canyon, a climber (35) accidentally dislodged a four foot by two foot by six inch sandstone block that fell 100 fee...
Gonga Sham Attempt and Tragedy. On August 25. Hitoshi Watanabe, Takuya Fukuzawa, Sachiko Takada (f), Yasuyuki Watanabe, Yosuke Suzuki, Junji Kudo and I as leader established Base Camp at 3950 meters near the tongue of the Yanzeko Glacier north of ...
Climbs in Snow Creek Area, 1982. Jim Yoder did several new routes in the Leavenworth area. Perhaps the most notable was Hyperspace on Snow Creek Wall. It is a sustained free climb with four of the eight pitches being 5.10. The crux is a 5.10d slot...
Peaks above the Dall Glacier. From July 22 to August 1 Donald Davis and I, with Brian and Diane Okonek acting as guides, established a Base Camp on the Dall Glacier, 4¾ miles southwest of Mount Russell. We made the following climbs, all first asce...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING ALONEBritish Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Ridge between Mounts Castor and PolluxOn April 21, 1982, a solo climber was ascending the ridge between Mounts Castor and Pollux. He had left his skis where the rock ridge began. On ...
FALL ON SNOW AND HAPE/HACE-ASCENDING TOO FASTAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressAt 1430 on May 17, Frainciso Borja (32), a member of the Blue Skies Expedition, was witnessed by NPS Ranger Scott Metcalfe and VIP Kirk Mauthner falling from just be...