Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington — Cascades, Katsuk Peak, North Face Couloir

Katsuk Peak, North Face Couloir. On May 3, my brothers Gordy and Carl and I climbed a 1200-foot couloir that splits the left side of this face. We made running belays by looping slings around horns, but some of the anchors were questionable. Snow ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat

Nanga Parbat. Two men were lost and the third suffered frostbite during an abortive attempt by three Englishmen to climb Nanga Parbat in December 1950. Full details are lacking, but The Listener quotes the survivor, Richard Marsh, as stating, “The...


Club Activities AAJ
University of Wyoming Outing Club

University of Wyoming Outing Club. The excellent guidance of Tom Christensen and Gary Poush during 1969 provided the club with an increased membership and a vast array of activities. Highlights of the climbing season were: two successful winter cl...


Club Activities AAJ
The Mountaineers

The Mountaineers. The Mountaineers have grown to over 10,000 members in 1979, with the attendant problems of meeting the needs and desires of so many. As the club has grown, new interests have developed. A few years ago we instituted additional wi...


Book Reviews AAJ
Surviving Denali: A Study of Accidents on Mount McKinley, 1910-1982

Surviving Denali: A Study of Accidents on Mount McKinley, 1910-1982. Jonathan Waterman. The American Alpine Club, 1983. 160 pages. Black and white photographs, map, charts, appendices. Estimated $10.00.McKinley is a paradoxical mountain. Windswept...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, The Mainland, Sentinal Range, Overview

Sentinel Range, overview. In the 2001-02 season 67 climbers, including only four women, attempted Vinson by the normal route. Sixty reached the summit, producing a success rate of 90 percent, slightly lower than usual. No new routes were climbed i...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Cordillera Darwin, 1987 South America, Tierra del Fuego

Geof Bartram, Steve Amstutz, Pete Getzels, and I converged on Punta Arenas, planning to explore the Canal Beagle and the southern fjords of the Darwin Range by sea kayak and to try climbing routes in the vicinity of Monte Darwin. We received treme...

| Published N/A | Author Michael André


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Timrazine Canyon, Capitan Tajin Africa, Morocco

Climbing almost every day from October 5 till the 17th, Abigail Pickett from France and Andrea Cattarossi, Daniele Geremia, Silvano Gosso, Marco Zaffiri, and I from Italy repeated beautiful routes and over three days created our own. This route is...

| Published N/A | Author Francesco Fazzi


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock, Wyoming, Tetons

FALLING ROCKS Wyoming, TetonsAbout 0830 on July 26, 1987, David Ryan (30) and Paul Kopczynski (24) were passing the Molar Tooth on the East Ridge of the Grand Teton via the north traverse. As Kopczynski was coiling the ropes after their rappels, R...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Heritage Range, Mt. Spörli (2,253m), Northeast Face

Mt. Spörli (2,253m), northeast face. Climbers were again active among the small peaks around Union Glacier, due to ALE’s new base near Mt. Rossman (see map in AAJ 2011). Probably the most notable climb in the area was the first ascent of Mt. Spörl...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Equipment, Unclear Leadership/Decision Making, New York, Adirondacks

FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, UNCLEAR LEADERSHIP/DECISION MAKINGNew York, AdirondacksOn Saturday morning, March 11, 1989, Linda Hepburn (36) arrived with four companions (Art Portmore, Patrick Clark, Peter Osborne, and Mike Douglass) at the b...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall or Slip on Rock, Inadequate Belay, Inexperienced, North Carolina, Looking Glass Rock

FALL OR SLIP ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY, INEXPERIENCEDNorth Carolina, Looking Glass RockOn May 8, a male climber (31) and his female partner were attempting an unknown rock climb when he fell and broke his ankle. It was broken on both sides and wil...


Book Reviews AAJ
The Ski Troops

The Ski Troops, by Hal Burton. New York, Simon and Schuster, 1971. 192 pages, with 14 photographs and two sketches by George Earle.In The Ski Troops Hal Burton tells the story of the formation and training of the 10th Mountain Division and its com...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Logan, Atlantic Peak, Badham and Donjek

Logan, Atlantic Peak, Badham and Donjek. A number of expeditions successfully climbed Mount Logan. The following completed the climb by the King Trench: Canadians Larry Dolecki, Myron Tetrault, Richard Peters and Stuart O’Connor climbed the mounta...


Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche, Climbing Alone, Late Start, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Tyndall Glacier

AVALANCHE, CLIMBING ALONE, LATE STARTColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Tyndall GlacierOn November 9, 1991, at 1400, Dan Hepburn (26) triggered an avalanche while ascending Tyndall Glacier in Rocky Mountain National Park. Hepburn was only 40 ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Ama Dablam

Ama Dablam. On March 31, Jim Quirk and I arrived at the beautiful Mingbo Valley Base Camp. After an abortive attempt that ended in storm at 21,500 feet on April 4, we regained the southwest ridge on April 8 and bivouacked at 19,000 feet. On the 9t...


Feature Article AAJ
Happy Days in the Bergell

Happy Days in the BergellEdward HartmannI HAVE always taken great pleasure in reading the articles in the Alpine Journals and have thought the authors must have found equal enjoyment in writing them and thus bringing back memories of their past cl...


Accident Reports ANAM
Exposure, Frostbite, Exceeding Abilities — Maine Mt. Katahdin

EXPOSURE, FROSTBITE, EXCEEDING ABILITIES—Maine, Mt. Katahdin. Toward the end of January 1974, Bob Proudman (25), Paul DiBello (23), Mike Cohen (30), Doug George (23), Page Dinsmore (19), and Tom Keddy (26) were in Baxter State Park for a winter at...


Accident Reports ANAM
Frostbite, Exposure, Weather, Alaska, Mount Foraker

FROSTBITE, EXPOSURE,WEATHER Alaska, Mount ForakerOn April 4, 1993, the Alaskan Archangel Expedition, consisting of eight British servicemen, flew into Lake Minchumina for the approach to Mount Foraker.On April 5, they began their approach up the F...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Gurans Himal, Dualagiri, Ascents, Attempts, and Tragedies

Dhaulagiri, ascents, attempts, and tragedies. On October 12 the Spanish climber, José Antonio ‘Pepe’ Garces, the leader of a small Spanish-Italian expedition to the Normal Route up the northeast ridge, was killed when he fell to his death from ca ...