Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Garhwal, Kedarnath Dome and Bhagirathi II

Kedarnath Dome and Bhagirathi II. Italian Renato Moro organized two successful commercial expeditions to the Gangotri region. In August Moro, F. Zurloni, P. Cappanetti, J. Summer and Henry Bizot climbed Kedarnath Dome (6830 meters, 22,408 feet). F...


Accident Reports ANAM
New Jersey: Appalachian Mountains, Delaware Water Gap

New Jersey: Appalachian Mountains, Delaware Water Gap. On 20 October 1951 Mary Ann Weborg, 17, of Newark, New Jersey, accompanied five Union Junior College Students and an instructor on a geology field trip in this area. The students were all girl...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Peaks above Darban Glacier

Peaks Above Darban Glacier. A six-man German expedition led by Eggert Keller was in the Darband Glacier region. On June 26 Peter Bienek climbed Q6 (20,475 feet) and M9 (20,538 feet) from the Camp I above the Darband Glacier. On July 4 Keller and B...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Cerro Mercedario (6,770m), East Face, A Contramano South America, Argentina, Central Andes, Cordillera de la Ramada

During November 2010 Fernando Daneri (Argentina) and Edgardo Liberman (Panamá, but resident in Buenos Aires) climbed a new route, A Contramano (1,300m, AD) on the east face. They had spotted the line during an evacuation of a corpse. They spent ...

| Published 2010 | Author Marcelo Scanu, Argentina


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded, Climbing Alone, Dropped Rope, California, Yosemite Valley

STRANDED, CLIMBING ALONE, DROPPED ROPE California, Yosemite ValleyOn May 22, 1989, at 1046, dispatch received a call from an Awhanee bellman concerning cries for help from the Serenity Crack area.Ranger Korthius responded and found Dan M. Klein (3...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Chogolisa Traverse

Chogolisa Traverse. From September 10 to 15 our expedition, Liam Elliot, Hamish Irvine, Ulric Jessop, Simon Lamb and I as leader, made the first complete traverse of Chogolisa’s twin summits (7665 meters or 25,148 feet; 7654 meters or 25,112 feet)...


Book Reviews AAJ
La Montagne des Autres—Alpinisme en Pays Kurde

La Montagne des Autres—Alpinisme en Pays Kurde, by Bernard Amy.Paris: Arthaud, 1972. 239 pages, 26 photos, 4 maps.In southeastern Turkey, close to the frontiers with Syria, Iraq and Iran, lies a fascinating range, the Cilo Dag, which rises to some...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Antarctic Peninsula, Belgian Second Ascents, Spanish First Ascent

Belgian second ascents, Spanish first ascent. An international team sailed aboard the yacht Euronav Belgica to visit the Peninsula for the 110th anniversary of the Belgian Antarctic Expedition 1897-99. Fittingly, one of the peaks they climbed this...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Western Garhwal, Gangotri, Meru North Peak (6450m), Attempt

Meru North Peak (6450m), attempt. During September and October a three-member Japanese expedition led by Hiroyoshi Manome attempted the northeast face and the north pillar route. They established camps and reached 6050m. Falling stones and objecti...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Satopanth

Satopanth. Our expedition was organized by the Italian National Mountain Rescue Corps. Medical research was carried out by the University of Pisa. The members were Marcello Ambrogi, Roberto Bemucci, Dr. Alessandro Bian- chini, Paolo Cavallo, Massi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, North Chasm View Wall, The Free Nose, First One-Day Ascent

North Chasm View Wall, The Free Nose, First One-Day Ascent. In May, Kennan Harvey and I did the second ascent and first one-day ascent of the Free Nose of North Chasm View Wall in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. The weather was questionable, so ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, USSR, Pik Kommunizma, Pamirs

Pik Kommunizma, Pamirs. Four Polish climbers, M. Grochowski, A. Heinrich, R. Kowalewski and J. Rusiecki, made the first ascent of the 2300-foot high west face of Pik Kommunizma (24,548 feet) from August 6 to 9. This is the first route on this face...


Book Reviews AAJ
Mont Blanc to Everest

Mont Blanc to Everest, by Gaston Rébuffat, with a preface by Wilfred Noyce. London: Thames and Hudson, 1956. 158 pages; 69 photogravures, including 8 in color. Price 35 s.This is the English edition of Rébuffat’s Du Mont Blanc á L’Himalaya transla...


Accident Tables ANAM
Table I

YearTotal Number of Reported AccidentsNumber of Deaths1947 15111948 28151949 1791950 3081951 1841952 35141953 25121954 3181955 3461956 46101957 4517


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall/Slip on Snow—Washington, Mt. St. Helens

FALL/SLIP ON SNOW—Washington, Mt. St. Helens. Vernar Stiles (54) and Judi Amos (27) slid and tumbled more than 3,000 feet to their deaths from Nelson Glacier on Mt. St. Helens, February 7. They were with a group of 12, all experienced and well equ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Placed No Protection, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, T-2

FALL ON ROCK, PLACED NO PROTECTIONColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, T-2On October 7, a climber (38) was beginning to lead the eighth pitch of T-2 when he fell 16 feet, hitting the wall with his foot, resulting in a fracture. He was experienced...


Accident Reports ANAM
Slip on Rock, Climbing Unroped, British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mt. Robson

SLIP ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPEDBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mt. RobsonOn July 28, 1979, John Harlin of Rhode Island and Chuck Hospedales of Jasper successfully climbed Mt. Robson via the Hourglass. At 10:30 p.m., while descending rock ledges ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self Arrest, No Belay — Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress

FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF ARREST, NO BELAYAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressA three-person Spanish expedition named “McKinley 99” began their expedition on May 3 from the 7,200-foot basecamp on the Kahiltna Glacier. Expedition members includ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Chilean Patagonia, La Hoja, East Face, New Route

La Hoja, East Face, New Route. In the Pingo valley, the Chilean team of Christian Oberli and Sven Bruchfeld established a new route on the east face of La Hoja in January, 1996. The route, which was done in “classic style” with fixed ropes, was 14...


Notes AAJ
Europe, Eiger

Eiger. The second and third conquests of the Nordwand were recorded during the summer of 1947. Two French guides, Louis Lachenal, of Annecy, and Lionel Terray, of Chamonix, made the ascent in July, between 2.00 P.M. on the 14th and 2.25 P.M. on th...