Tinchenkang (6,010m), ascent and tragedy. A team of five from the Mumbai Chakram Hikers Club attempted Tinchenkang in October. On the 19th the leader, Mangesh Deshpande, and Sadasivan Sekar, with Sherpas Ang Dorje and Mingma, reached the summit at...
Colorado, St. Mary’s Glacier—west of Idaho Springs—Sunday, February 24, 1957 was a bright sunny morning as Russell Foley (15), Gary Moss (16), Jack Ganley (18), George Garramone (16), and Ellis Lance (17) packed their lunches and left their parent...
WEATHER, HYPOTHERMIA, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, The NoseOn April 9, two parties of climbers started up the Nose (Grade VI) on El Capitan. One group included John Montecucco (30) and Shawn Kelley (28) and the othe...
The Entropy WallA direct route up Mt. Moffit’s north face.Jed BrownThe Hayes Range has long been a sort of local range for Fairbanks climbers. It doesn’t have the glamour appeal of Denali or the Ruth Gorge, and access is a problem. (The Talkeetna ...
Two flights, three days of bum-bruising off-road driving, and two days of scenic hiking brought us to our base camp (4,600m, 33°16'19.52"N, 76°54'20.20"E) in an arena of unclimbed mountains. It was September 1, and we were in a western branch of t...
Kamet, Normal Route, ascent. In the autumn Sue Nott and I spent seven weeks on an expedition to Kamet. We were plagued by horrible weather. On the approach from base camp to advanced base we got trapped between camps for five days while more than ...
Dhaulagiri Ascents and Tragedy. Our international team consisted of Italian Marco Berti, leader, Italian Marco Bianchi, Italian (South Tirolean) Christian Kuntner, Poles Piotr Pustelnik and Józef Gozdzik, Portuguese João García and me from the Uni...
The Unclimbable Summits?David KozakRECENTLY AS I WAS READING through the Base Camp section of Climbing magazine I came across a bit of information that distressed me. The following paragraph appears word for word from the magazine:“The Four Comers...
Volcan El Peinado, and Other Ascents. Our group consisted of Maria Constanza Ceruti, Gustaro Gomez, Hernan Ponce, Nestor Perez and I, all from Buenos Aires. We wanted to attempt the beautiful Volcan El Peinado (5741 m) (the Combed One), a remote v...
Cirque Peak. Mr. George Weed informs us that neither R. F. Curtis nor C. E. Fay took part in the first ascent of this mountain in 1898. Fay and Curtis did not join the party of Nichols, Thompson and Weed during the 15 days beginning 30 July 1898, ...
Peak 4151, South Face. Mt. Corcoran consists of four widely separated summits along the Sierra crest. The southernmost peak, a.k.a. Peak 4151, presents a striking sight in the upper reaches of Tuttle Creek’s south fork. The south face rises steepl...
From November 10 to 13, Li Zhongli and I made an alpine-style ascent of the south face of Siguniang (Yaomei Feng), the highest of the Siguniang Shan (Four Girls Mountains). I first tried the line in October 2006, retreating from the base of th...
Climbing in Kluane National Park. During 1983 there were 18 groups in the Kluane National Park portion of the St. Elias Mountains. These 89 people spent a total of 1686 man-days. Aside from those recounted separately, the following climbs are wort...
ROCK BROKE OFF, FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INEXPERIENCEKentucky, Red River Gorge State ParkOn October 2, a climber (22) was on top of Courthouse Rock looking for an anchor placement for rappelling...
Pyramid Peak, Attempt. The Australian Pyramid Peak Expedition consisted of seven climbers (Darren Miller, leader; James Serie, Gavin Dunmall, Nicola Sunderland, Scott Welch, Jon Chapman, Morvan Grant) with the aim to make the first ascent of this ...
TABLE IIReported Mountaineering AccidentsYearNumber of accidents Reported U.S.A-CAN.Total Number of Persons Involved U.SA.-CAN.InjuredU.SA.-CAN.KilledU.S.A.-CAN.19511421103195229321713195324271412195431413181955343929131956467151181957455328181958...
Arrigetch Peaks, Samurai Savitz and Rock Jock. Tim Kemple, Justin Sjong, and I flew to Betties, where we met Max Hanft, the only local climber. He accompanied us on our journey into the Arrigetch. Our team, with a combined age of less than 100, wa...
Snehätten, West Greenland. On August 13, Egidio Bolis, Dario De Nigro, Andrea Farina, Amedeo and Margherita Gatti, Emilio Moreschi, Giovanna Nava and I climbed Snehätten (Nugatsiaup Qaqa; 1765 meters, 5791 feet), the culminating point of Qeqertars...
FALL ON ICEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, near Lake LouiseOn March 11, 1984, two ice climbers (26 and 25) attempted the falls near the Plain- of-Six-Glaciers Teahouse in the Lake Louise area of Banff National Park. They traveled to the falls on cross-c...
RAPPEL FAILURE–INADEQUATE ANCHORAlaska, Moose's Tooth, Shaken Not StirredIn the early morning of May 1, around 0200, Kevin Cooper and Ryan Jennings (ages unknown, as they did not register) were descending from the “Shaken Not Stirred” route on the...