Ogre Attempt. Masaharu Takahashi led a Rikhyo University group to the Biafo Glacier to reconnoiter the Ogre (23,901 feet) from June to August They favor the south rather than the north side.ICHIRO YOSHIZAWA, A.A.C. and Japanese Alpine Club
Broad Peak in Twenty-two Hours. Our party consisted of Janusz Majer, leader, Walenty Fiut, Ryszard Pawlowski and me. Jerzy Kukuczka and Wojciech Kurtyka operated separately. Our chief objective was to complete the first one-day ascent of Broad Pea...
Cuerno Oeste, Mas Ricas No Hay; Cuerno Chico, Hurly Burly. My partner Mark Davis and I arrived in Torres del Paine National Park in the first week of February 2003. Our initial objective was a new route on the west face of Torre Norte. We waited e...
Spitzbergen. A group from the Österraichischen Alpenverein, under the leadership of Hans Gsellmann, spent five weeks in Spitzbergen from the end of June 1954 on. They made 25 ascents, all but three of them new climbs. Some of these were very diffi...
Ulta, Alpamayo Norte, Pucaraju and Other Peaks. The South African Andean Expedition arrived in the Cordillera Blanca in June and established itself in the Quebrada Ulta under Chopicalqui near the New Zealanders led by McIlwraith. Roger Fuggle, Ton...
Everest North Face Attempt. Our expedition consisted of Todd Bibler, Carlos Buhler, Dana Coffield, Mark Jennings, Douglas Kelley, Andrew Lapkass, Michael Lehner, Sandy Stewart, Ann Whitehouse, Brinton Young and me as leader. We reached 7775 meters...
Washington, Stuart Range, Mt. Stuart. On 16 October there were three separate climbing teams consisting of two climbers per team on the same route. A massive rock fall came off the ridge all funneling into the chute that the climbers were in. The ...
FALL ON ICE, BELAY DEVICE SET-UP INCORRECTLYColorado, Ouray Ice ParkAccording to reports, on February 6, a client topped out and placed his partner, a guide, on belay. In the process, the client rigged his Reverso incorrectly. Sometime during the ...
Cho Oyu in the Post-Monsoon Season. A large number of expeditions were on the Tibetan side of Cho Oyu climbing the standard route. Before his speed climb on Everest, Marc Batard made a remarkable ascent of Cho Oyu in company with Sundare Sherpa. W...
Navajolands. Spinnaker Tower was climbed free at 5.11+ by Stevie Haston and Laurence Guault. Lost Coyote Tower, a 250-foot spire located southeast of Round Rock near Rock Point, Arizona, was climbed by Fred Beckey and Dave Pollari (III 5.9 A2).
INADEQUATE PROTECTION—ICE TOOL CAME OUT, FATIGUE, EXCEEDING ABILITIESAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Ghost River, “This House of Sky” FallsAbout 1600 on January 28, after several satisfactory hours of ice climbing, G. R. and R. P. were attempting a pitc...
Mamostong Kangri. This high peak continues to attract climbing teams. An Indian ladies’ team, led by Bachendri Pal, climbed the normal route from the Mamostong Glacier, crossing the 5885-meter Mamostong col and up the east ridge. The summit (7516 ...
Stanford. The Stanford Alpine Club has 50 members, half of whom are active. Four week ends a year, the club sponsors climbs in Yosemite Valley—a rock climber’s paradise. Several week ends are spent at Pinnacles National Monument or Castle Crags St...
A.A.C., Oregon Section. 1986 was an eventful year for the Oregon Section, although we had few actual climbs to report. Our most time-consuming activity was the continuing and almost successful effort to have Mount Saint Helens opened to climbers. ...
Nanga Purbat, Diamir Face, Polish-American Expedition. Our team was made up of Poles Piotr Pustelnik, leader, Józef Gozdzik, Marek Grochowski, Leszek Sikora, Dr. Piotr Jedlikowski and me from the United States. After difficult and sometimes unplea...
Josef Pollinger, of St. Niklaus, died in 1943 at the age of 70. One of the great guides of all time, he was the last survivor of Edward Whymper’s expedition to the Rockies in 1901. Mt. Pollinger is named for him. His first ascents in that season w...
La Connaissance de la Montague, by Paul Payot. 127 pages. Bonneville: Imprimerie Plancher, 1944.This little volume was published as a compendium of the instruction material used at the Centre á l’École des Cadres. Although directed principally at ...
Antarctic Peninsula, Various Ascents. It was reported that in February, 1997, Greg Mortimer led an Australian team that made a number of ascents from their boat, Professor Molchanov. The team climbed the central peak of Ronge Island; a 600-meter p...
FALL ON SNOW—UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, CLIMBING ALONE, HASTE—RESULTING IN WEARING ROCK SHOES ON SNOWWashington, Mount StuartAfter summiting Mount Baker in the early morning of July 9,1 drove about 3/4 of the way to Seattle and got a hotel room to dry...
Pucajirca Tragedy. A nine-man expedition from Bergamo was led by Bruno Berlendis. On July 14 five of the members were about 100 meters below the top of the west face of the highest of the Pucajircas when a huge avalanche swept them off. Rocco Berl...