FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTColorado, Pikes PeakOn June 19, 1982, Oliver King (23) and I (21) began ascending the East Face of Pikes Peak around 1030. King was following me down a steep snowfield because he did not have an ice ax with him at...
Bhyundar Valley, Garhwal. The Bombay Mountaineering Committee sent out a party of fifteen, including three Sherpa instructors from the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute to train climbers in the Bhyundar valley, made famous by Frank Smythe as the ...
Peaks Climbed by the India-Tibet Border Police. This is a further continuation of the list given under Garhwal and Himachal Pradesh. The only one noted as a first ascent is Saser Kangri, about which an article appeared in A.A.J., 1975 on pages 65-...
Antarctica, Overview. The 1999-2000 season was the busiest season ever for tourism in Antarctica. This popularity was reflected in the relatively high number of mountaineers active on the continent, particularly in the Peninsula area. Most yacht-b...
Mount Dawson, Northwest face, Selkirk Range. Faith in photographs taken nearly a half century ago can be foolish, we learned. What had looked like a good ice route on the north face of the Dawson Massif had receded to cliffy remnants and a long sp...
Colorado, Turkey Creek Canyon, “The Dome.” On 19 September, William Davis (17) and Peyton Price Mead (15) were climbing roped on The Dome. Mead slipped but was held temporarily by Davis until the rope broke and both persons fell. Davis was killed ...
Gasherbrum II, Chilean Expedition. Our expedition consisted of Jorge Bassa, Claudio Gálvez, Rubén Lamilla, Claudio Lucero, Nelson Muñoz, Jorge Quinteros, Iván Vigouroux, Leonardo Zúñiga and me as leader. It took us two weeks to complete formalitie...
Z3 and P 5750, Zanskar. Our objective had been to climb P 6550 at the head of the Durung Drum Glacier. We ascended the glacier for about ten miles and placed Base Camp at 14,775 feet. However bad weather and intestinal infections caused us to chan...
Chamonix et le Mont Blanc, by Paul Payot and G. Tairraz. 24 pages of text, 48 pages of illustrations. In a series entitled “Aspects de la France.” Grenoble and Paris: B. Arthaud, 1949.Payot is a native of Chamonix and has become the authority on t...
Climbs near Redfish Lake, Sawtooth Range. About 2½ miles from the end of Redfish Lake Julie Brugger and I found a dihedral on the east end of a slab north of the trail. The climbing reminded me of Glacier Point Apron. All six pitches were aestheti...
Yalung Kang. Our plan was to climb both Yalung Kang and Annapurna during the same stay in Nepal. For Yalung Kang our team was composed of Laurence de la Ferrière, Jean Coudray, Gérard Bretin, Anselme Baud, Jacky Pêche and me as leader. We wanted t...
Sermersoq Island, southwest face of The Needle. In 2002 French climbers, Pierre Mayet, Marrhieu Noury and Marie Ponson climbed a new route on the Needle (which they referred to as the Sermersoq Dibona, after its resemblance to the famous granite a...
Cascades: First Ascent of the N. Face of Mt. Baker. No route on Mt. Baker between the Cockscomb on the N. E. ridge and the Roman Wall on the W. side had been ascended prior to 7 August 1948, when Fred Beckey, Ralph Widrig and Dick Widrig scaled a ...
Falak Sar, Swat-Kohistan. A Japanese expedition from Yamaguchi University was composed of Yoshiyuki Nagahiro and Toshiyuki Akiyama. After traveling by car from Peshawar through Saidu Sharif, capital of Swat, to Matiltan, they continued on and head...
Everest Winter Attempt. The six-man Korean expedition which attempted the South Col route on Everest was led by On In-Hwan. They set up Base Camp, Camps I, II, III and IV at 5300, 5500, 6500, 7400 and 8000 meters during December. Neo Young-Ho and ...
Aconcagua. On February 13, 1973, we reached the summit of Cerro Aconcagua via the standard route. The team was unusual in that almost half its members were women: Susan Condon, Barbara Lilley, Norma Viault, and Gail Wilts. The male portion of the ...
Huaketsa Punta, Eder Sabino Cacha. On June 11, 2004, Mauro Floret, Massimo Sacchi, and Marco Sterni, from Trieste, reached the summit of Huaketsa Punta (a.k.a. Amahuagaychu, 5,134m) after completing the first ascent of the west face. Huaketsa Punt...
Annapurna Attempt and Tragedy. An eight-man Japanese team on the normal route on Annapurna was led by Akihiko Mori. In September 29, after dumping loads at 5900 meters, Mori was returning to Camp I with Tsuyoshi Ono and Ang Dawa Sherpa. They were ...
Quebrada Ishinca, rock climbs. In early July in the Quebrada Ishinca, German climbers Alexander Schmalz-Friedberger and Michael Zettelmeyer established Con Ojeras Debajo de Ojos Vidriosos (180m, 5.10+ C2) on the overhanging east face of Ishik Ullo...
FALL ON ROCK-NOT ANCHORED AT TOP OF CUFF, INEXPERIENCE Utah, Big Cottonwood Canyon, Storm Mountain AmphitheaterOn October 10, Amberly Rogers (20) fell at the Storm Mountain Amphitheater while attempting to set up a top-rope. She was on a buttress ...