Mt. Hunter, first ski descent. This was my first trip to Alaska. I was invited to attempt a ski descent of Mt. Hunter during May with Lome Glick, John “Weedy” Whedon, and Andrew McLean. Our intended route was a variation of the West Ridge from the...
FALL ON SNOW, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONSWashington, Mount RainierAround 7:00 a.m. on March 12, 1981, Eric Simonson, a Rainier Mountaineering, Inc.(RMI) guide, radioed from Camp Muir to Park Ranger Gerry Tays that an independent climber had injured his...
LOUIS SUSSDORF (1888-1940)Louis Sussdorf was born at Elmhurst, L. I., N. Y., January 7th, 1888, the son of Louis Albert Sussdorf and Rebecca Morse Hyatt. He attended the Cutler School in New York City and was graduated from Harvard in 1910. He ent...
Brooks Range, Alaska. Our wish: to search out and experience the most remote wilderness skiing available; our objective: to ski from the Arctic Circle to the Arctic Ocean, over the Brooks Range. Betties, Alaska (67° N.) April 1. Wayne Merry, Ned G...
THE NEED FOR A NATIONAL MOUNTAINEERING SAFETY PROGRAM Report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club Introduction THE startling increase in the number of mountaineering accidents which occurred during the summer of 1947 suggests tha...
Castle Valley. Layton Kor, with his wife Joy, teamed up with Calvin Lee and Jerry Tomasso for the 1147th ascent of Castleton Tower. The stout 400-foot Wingate Sandstone monolith has the distinction of being the most popular tower climb of the dese...
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, CLIMBING UNROPEDAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 4, 1985, at 1630, Siegfried Mayer (45), a member of the Schwardzwalder-Alaska- Bergfahrt-Expedition, was descending from the summit of Mt. McKinley. He was unroped an...
ILLNESS, FAILURE TO DISCLOSE PREVIOUS MEDICAL HISTORY, INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Denali National Park, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 12, Tina James, a client with Mountain Trip led by Todd Ruthledge, was out on a summit bid when she began experie...
A TIME TO LIVE, A TIME TO DIETragedy on the southeast ridge of Mount Everest by Charlotte FoxIn August of 1995, Neal Beidleman, an acquaintance in Aspen, approached me with an idea: his friend, Scott Fischer, was putting together a trip the next s...
Vanishing Trails of Atacama by William E. Rudolph. American Geographical Society Research Series #24; 87 pages, 50 illustrations, maps and bibliography. New York, 1963.The highlands of Atacama include the highest volcanoes of the world, which reac...
Sandersons Hope, northwest face, new route. On July 2 the yacht Northanger set sail for Greenland from Port Kirwan, Newfoundland. On board were the captains/owners Keri Pashuk and Greg Landreth, climbers Chris “Beeker” Romeskie and I, and crew Ang...
SIR ROBERT CHARLES EVANS 1918 - 1995Charles Evans was a mountaineer’s mountaineer: expert, unassuming and self-effacing to a fault, whose love of neurosurgery and climbing demanded judgment, skill and nerve. He began serious climbing in 1938 and a...
Northwest Mountaineering by Edward A. Rossit. Caldwell, Idaho: The Caxton Printers, Ltd., 1965. 206 pages. 14 photographs in black and white. $5.50.The book jacket describes this hardbound volume as "an instruction book for the beginning and inter...
Las Montañas de México, by Miguel Guzmán Peredo. Mexico City: Costa-Amic Editores, 1968. 232 pages, 2 photographs.To portray the three ice volcanoes of Mexico – Iztaccihuatl, Popocatepetl and Orizaba – as they were seen by Conquistadores, poets, s...
(Read and adopted at the Annual Meeting January 11, 1930.)VALERE ALFRED FYNN 1870—1929Valere Alfred Fynn, one of the leading authorities on alternating current motors in the world, was born in Krasno, Russia, April 11th, 1870, son of Alfred R. Fy...
P 8690 and P 9840, St. Elias Mountains. On June 21, I led Susan Bolton and Bob Bolin to near the tongue of the Chitina Glacier. After landing at Huberts Landing Strip, for two days we hiked through brush to camp at 6600 feet. On June 24, we spent ...
Nevado Ulta, west-northwest face. Previously unreported and scarcely known is an August 1985 ascent of an ice-and-mixed line, thought to be on the far left side of the west-northwest face (called the northwest face in the photo on p. 275 of the 20...
STERLING B. HENDRICKS1902-1981He was a member of the National Academy of Sciences, the recipient of an impressive number of honorary degrees in addition to the standard academic diplomas in Chemical Engineering and other higher degrees majoring in...
Katsuk Peak, North Face Couloir. On May 3, my brothers Gordy and Carl and I climbed a 1200-foot couloir that splits the left side of this face. We made running belays by looping slings around horns, but some of the anchors were questionable. Snow ...
Nanga Parbat. Two men were lost and the third suffered frostbite during an abortive attempt by three Englishmen to climb Nanga Parbat in December 1950. Full details are lacking, but The Listener quotes the survivor, Richard Marsh, as stating, “The...