Nevado Imantata, Cordillera de Quimsa Cruz. On July 2 I climbed P 5380 (south side, rock and flat ice), which I named Nevado Imantata (Hidden Peak), in Aimara. On the north summit of the main ridge there was a surveyor’s cairn. The same day I trav...
Canyonlands Area. On the road to North Sharpshooter Tower, a mile from the dug-out ranch and on the north side of the highway, is the canyon often called “Fringe of Death Canyon.” Jim Dunn and companions have climbed a couple of dozen crack lines ...
Mount Hunter, North Buttress Attempt. Dan and Patrick McNerth- ney, Rob Newsom and I* arrived in Talkeetna on May 2 and were on the glacier that evening. The next couple of days found us establishing Base Camp and telescoping the face. We chose a ...
Washington, Cliff in Upper Entiat Valley—On 29 June, Dewey Long (15) fell 100 feet to his death while attempting to climb a cliff with a friend in the hills of the upper Entiat Valley.Source: Newspaper clipping.
Huayanay Group, Cordillera Vilcabamba. Led by Louis Dubost, a group of 55 members of the Section Lyon-Saint Gervais of the French Alpine Club left France on July 23 for the Cordillera Vilcabamba. Of these, 14 men and 2 women were serious climbers....
RAPPEL ERROR, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, HYPOTHERMIA, WEATHER California, Tuolumne Meadows, Pywiack DomeOn July 23, a powerful thunderstorm swept through Tuolumne Meadows in the early afternoon. My partner and I raced to the top of our route, simulclimb...
Mount Sanford. Solo-climber Naomi Uemura from Japan accomplished the fourth ascent of Mount Sanford (16,237 feet). He flew in to only 3500 feet with food for twenty days. With a long pole tied to his pack, he probed all the way. He was driven back...
FALL ON RAPPELBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount StanleyOn July 27, after returning from the North Face glacier route, three climbers were rappelling low angle slabs heading to the meadows below. One of them lost control of his rappel for a ...
Warbonnet, Northeast Face. From Camp on Lonesome Lake at about nine in the morning in August, Eric Beck and I walked up toward Jackass Pass to see whether the route we had picked out on the northeast face of Warbonnet would go. A steep snow slope ...
Kachina Mountain Club. The Club, with headquarters in Phoenix, Arizona, has an active membership of 20 and is admitting new members as soon as they can be trained. All new members must make at least six practice climbs before they are accepted. Th...
Via Sin Aqua, the Upper Yosemite Falls Traverse. The Falls were completely dry and both Bugs McKeith of Edinburgh and I had noticed the same possible route. In September, 1970 we followed Muir’s footsteps to the western terminus of the ledge leadi...
Huandoy Norte, East Face and Other Peaks, 1977. Bertl Gribnitz, Waltraut Sommersacher, Arnulf Leitner, Gerhard Neumayer and I as leader climbed in the Cordillera Blanca in July of 1977. On July 27 we repeated the Polish route on the east face of H...
Momhil Sar. Momhil Sar, the 24,090-foot peak which lies just west of Trivor, was climbed by an Austrian expedition from Styria. It was led by Hans Schell and included Rudolf Pischinger, Horst Schindelbacher, Leo Schlömmer and Rolf Widerhofer. Afte...
The Citadel. On August 28 Joe Munson and Jim Parolini made the first ascent of this 7378-foot peak from 1½ miles below Royal Basin. Brush and scree were encountered to the low point on the ridge connecting with Greywolf Ridge. The ridge was follow...
Allpamayo, Kitaraju. Our expedition was composed of Wally Barker, Rick Hanners and me. From Base Camp at the confluence of the Que- bradas Arweiqocha and Santa Cruz, on July 20 Barker and I unsuccessfully attempted Kurikashjana. On July 29 he and ...
Llihirini I, Ancohuma, Illimani and Other Peaks, Cordillera Real. We three reached Base Camp in the northern Cordillera Real from La Paz after two days’ drive and two days’ walk. Stephen Venables and I climbed Viluyo I (5638 meters, 18,500 feet) o...
West Annapurna, Stuart Range. Using an approach from Ingalls Creek, Dave Beckstead and I made the first ascent of the south face in June. We began on broken granite at the lowest portion of the face, then followed a slight rib on the face. Most of...
Northern Andes or Puna. An expedition of eight members of the Club Andino Mercedario (San Juan, Argentina) set out to explore some peaks situated astride the Chilean-Argentinian border, with the hope of finding Indian remains on their summits. The...
VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, VARIOUS CAUSESCalifornia, Joshua Tree National ParkThere were five incident reports from this park that qualified for the data. They all were falls, three of them resulting in injuries because either protection pulled or the...
Washington, South Skokomish River. Though not an alpine accident, the rescue is included because it required technical mountain rescue methods. On March 16th, four skin divers in wet suits were floating down this fast river gorge on two-man rubber...