A.A.C., Alaska Section. The year 1983 was another active one for Alaskan mountaineering. It began with more new ice climbs being found in the Valdez and Anchorage areas, and with Section members attempting winter ascents including Mounts Illiamna ...
Gordoghan Zom attempt. Our goal was to climb Buni Zom mountain (6,551m) in the Hindukush range of northwest Pakistan. The nearest access is from the village of Harchin, located about 120 km from Chitral, on the Gilgit road. Our expedition consiste...
In July I returned to Kyrgyzstan for the third time, my main goal being to explore more of the Torugart-too and in particular to push further along the Fergana range, an extension of the Torugart-too running northwest along the divide between the ...
Shivling West Summit. After establishing Base Camp at Tapovan on September 1, Dan Jenkins, Austin Weiss and I lazed about for nine days. On September 10, we hiked to the base of our route and bivouacked in a beautiful meadow. The next morning, we ...
Mount Cruiser, West Face. In July, 1959 Don Anderson and Roy Harniss made the first ascent of this face, which was consistently class 4 and required iron for safety on occasional leads. The ascent was completed in six hours.Mount Cruiser, West Fac...
Everest, First Ascent by a Nepalese Woman and Tragedy. The first to climb Everest from Nepal in the pre-monsoon were Nepalese, who reached the top on April 22 via the South Col and southeast ridge. There had been drama from the very inception of t...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWashington, Columbia Hill State Park, Horsethief ButteOn Sunday April 5, Tony Silva (30), a Gresham Oregon Police Detective, his sister-in-law Laura (26), and her husband, Bobby Silva, along with three young chil...
Mt. Rainier. On January 12th, 1936, Delmar Fadden of Seattle, an Eagle Scout, started on a solo ascent of Mt. Rainier from the north. This summit has never been climbed in January which is the poorest time of year for such an enterprise. A week la...
Gangotri II. Indians led by Salil Joshi climbed Gangotri II (6577 meters, 21,513 feet) on May 30. Summiters were A.B. Narajia, Pradip Rever, Ravji Rathod, Babubhai Barnda and Lal Bahadur.Harish Kapadia, Editor, Himalayan Journal
AAC, Sierra Nevada Section. In 2000, the Sierra Nevada Section offered members a variety of ways to network with other climbers and shape changes affecting Yosemite National Park.We kicked off the year with a well-attended Section Dinner in Berkel...
FALL ON ROCK - ASCENDER THREADED INCORRECTLY, DEHYDRATIONNew Hampshire, Cathedral Ledge, The ProwOn August 8, a climber (40s) from Center Conway survived a 100-foot fall at Cathedral Ledge.The Prow ascends the nose directly below the fenced-in vie...
Coming of Age-Ice Climbing Developments in North AmericaJames P. McCarthySINCE the flowering of the Yosemite School of Rock Climbing in the 1950s until the present, the world mountaineering community has gradually become aware that the best Americ...
Shisha Pangma from the Southwest and Nyanang Ri. On a reconnaissance in 1983, Tone Škarja and I made the first ascent of the Ice Tooth, the peak just south of Nyanang Ri. Since then, I have considered Nyanang Ri to be a most convenient peak for ac...
Northeast and West Sikkim, various attempts and ascents. During October and November Claire Humphris (U.K.), Simon Humphris (U.K.), Monica Kalozdi (U.S.), Tom Midttun (Norway), Jean Pavillard (Switzerland), Fabian Pavillard (Switzerland), Owen Sam...
STRANDED—UNABLE TO LOCATE RAPPEL ANCHOR California, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn August 25, 1994, at 1300, Rangers Keith Lober and Rick Foulks were contacted at El Capitan by a visitor who reported climbers calling for help from the cliff. I was ...
Mururata Massif, Various Ascents. For three days I tried approaches to the unclimbed peaks east of Mururata but found no access through the rock walls that enclose the Trancapata Valley. I then marched to the peaks west of Mururata. On June 2 I cl...
American Safe Climbing AssociationActivity report, 1999-2002. The American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA) replaces bad bolts and anchors throughout the United States. Conceived by veteran Yosemite guide Steve Sutton in 1995, the ASCA was incorpo...
DANIEL A. REID1941-1991On September 10, 1991, Dan Reid, M.D., an A AC member since 1971, and his wife Barbara were killed in a climbing accident on Mount Kenya. Their death left a void in many lives which can never be filled.Dan was an extraordina...
BYRON HARMON1876-1942Mr. Harmon was born in Tacoma, Wash., in 1876 and died at the Canmore hospital on July 9th, 1942. Although never a member of this Club he was so well known to mountaineers through the medium of his photography that he should b...
American Dhaulagiri Expedition—1969William A. Read, James D. Morrissey, and Louis F. ReichardtThe ablation has been performed but not the sacrifice. – The I Ching of James Janney after the collapse of Read but before the Death of the Seven. April ...