Shiprock’s East FaceCameron M. BurnsIN THE LATE 1980s, LUKE LAESER and I began collecting information, stories and even perceptions about climbing on the Navajo Reservation. We were surprised with what we learned.My first experience on Navajolands...
Mount Everest, Solo, by the Great Couloir. From the Tibetan side on August 20 at three P.M. Reinhold Messner became the first person to make the entire ascent of Mount Everest solo and the second non-Sherpa to climb the mountain by two different r...
Slesova, West-Southwest Face, Fiamma d’Oriente. Andrea Zanetti, Cristoforo Groaz and Giorgio Pancheri (Italy) opened a 1300-meter route, Fiamma d’Oriente (7 A3+), on the West-Southwest face of Pik Slesova (Russian Tower, 4240 m) in the Ak-Su Valle...
Washington: Northern Cascades, Mt. Pilchuck. In August 1949 five high school boys from Renton were on a fishing trip to Lake 22, on the east shoulder of this peak. While they were traversing a steep snow field above the lake, the boys, all of whom...
Though climbing has been going on in Baffin Island since at least 1934, and in earnest since the early 1970s, it wasn’t until 1994 that the world was formally introduced to the vast untapped climbing potential on the island’s east coast. Eugene Fi...
In July the second expedition of the Polish Apolobamba Exploration Project visited the Huancasayani Valley. The first, in 2009, reported in AAJ 2010, included Wojciech Chaladaj, Jakub Galka, and me. This time I was accompanied by Filip Drozdz, T...
AAC, Sierra Nevada Section. 1997 brought the Sierra Nevada Section continued growth and success spiced with daunting new challenges. With the addition of western Nevada to our geographic region plus an increasing number of Southern Californians wa...
SUDDEN DEATH - NEAR DENALI PASSAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressAt 2200 on July 7, Ranger John Loomis received a call on the emergency call out phone from ranger Kevin Wright at the 14,200-foot camp. Wright reported that he had received FRS ra...
At Grips with Jannu, by Jean Franco and Lionel Terray. Translated by Hugh Merrick. London: Victor Gollancz Limited, 1967. 192 pages; 60 photographs.“When Jannu huffs, nothing is left. That is why there are no longer any Yetis in the area. That is ...
Unprecedented amounts of good weather greeted climbers in the 2007–08 Patagonia season, resulting in numerous new routes and significant ascents. [Note: This summary supplements the individual reports, mostly of longer routes, below.]On the southe...
The Mountains of New ZealandKate GardinerLITTLE more than a fortnight's voyage from San Francisco lies New Zealand with its English-speaking population and glorious Southern Alps, a veritable Mecca for the mountaineer with as good and perhaps even...
Kampur, attempt. In August and September Pete Linkroum, Jacob Moore, and I explored the Ishkoman region of the Hindu Raj. Our plan was to attempt Jutebar Peak (ca 5600m) near Darkot Pass, but due to poor conditions we turned our sights to a new li...
In August, as part of a Mammut Team Trip, I joined Austrian David Lama and Swiss Giovanni Quirici and Stephan Siegrist, and with photographer Rainer Eder, filmmaker Christoph Frutiger, and expedition organizer Robert Steiner (Germany) made a trip ...
Everest via the Great Couloir. Our climbing team of Lincoln Hall, Andrew Henderson, Greg Mortimer, Tim Macartney-Snape and me as leader was joined by a four-man film crew and two Nepali assistants. We felt totally intimidated by the huge 3000-metr...
Peak Gorky (6,050m), south face, Slovenia Direct. In July-August 2003 the region of famous peaks Pobeda and Khan-Tengri was visited by expedition from Slovenia. Its members were mostly young alpinists, climbing at such heights for the first time: ...
The Northern Borkoldoy has a staggering collection of gnarly looking peaks topping out at just under 5,000m. The 4x4 journey to reach them was the hardest I have ever undertaken. The direct back roads from Naryn to Issykul feature dramatic gorges,...
TABLE III1951-881959-8819891989TerrainUSACAN.USACAN.Rock26273211009Snow1491254338Ice1235571River12300Unknown18610Ascent or DescentAscent23353279814Descent1511228414Unknown2354520Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock1696157686Slip on snow or ice59612...
OVERDUE - CLIMBING ALONE, FALL ON SNOW,Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Avalanche CanyonOn August 5, Patty Felder contacted park dispatch to report that her husband, Richard Felder (58), was overdue from a descent of Avalanche Canyon. They had ...
On August 3 Scott Adamson, Tom Adamson, and I stepped off the plane in Bishkek, courtesy of an AAC Lyman Spitzer Grant. We immediately realized the extent of the communication barrier and were glad to see our contact, Misha Sohorukov (mis48@ramble...
A large group was gathered at Military Wall on September 12 playing music, possibly loud enough to make communication between climber and belayer difficult. Climber was getting into the upper knee bar on Reliquary (5.12b) when he fell near the las...