Broad Peak Tragedy. We reached Base Camp at the foot of Broad Peak on May 7. We gave up our original plan to traverse all the summits since we lacked the facilities to do so. We divided into two groups. Hermann Lais and Helmut Rüdele attempted Bro...
Pisco Oeste, Via Traversiade. On the south face of Pisco Oeste (5,752m) on August 21 Italians Tarcisio Bello, Ivan Camolini, Michele Grigenti, and Bruno Castegnaro climbed what may be a new route, Via Traversiade (TD+, 90°) in 10 hours from the ba...
Campanile Esloveno, Above Bariloche, Northern Patagonia, 1992. February 13,1992 was the 40th Anniversary of the first ascent of the Campanile Esloveno, which caused quite a stir when it was first done. In celebration of the event, Dinko Bertoncelj...
On September 19, during Argentina’s dry 2010 winter, in the remote and little-visited Cordillera Ansilta, located 250km north of Mendoza and 50km from Barreal, Gabriel Fava (Argentina) and I climbed a new route on Ansilta 4 (5,116m). From ba...
Gasherbrum III, Southwest Ridge Attempt. Our objective had been the north ridge of Gasherbrum III, which was reconnoitered by Cassin in 1958. In the event, we tackled instead the long, rocky southwest ridge, which rises from the top of the dangero...
University Peak, St. Elias Range. A first ascent of this 15,030 foot peak (at the time the highest unclimbed peak in North America) was completed June 19 and 20, 1955 by Keith Hart, Leon Blumer, Sheldon Brooks, Tim Kelley, Norman Sanders, and Gibs...
Wetterhorn Peak, North Face. In late September 1973 Paul Hogan and I made what we think was the first ascent of this face by the natural break in the middle. The 800-foot face required six leads and five hours. The last pitches were climbed in a s...
The Jaw, North Ridge. Loring Woodman and Duncan Cameron made the first ascent of this route on August 21 from the saddle between the Jaw and the Outlier (Peak 10,628). After the first vertical step, 90 feet of scrambling brought them to a slight o...
SLIP ON SCREE AND ROCK, UNPROTECTEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount TempleOn August 13, 1990, a lone climber was descending the “tourist route” on Mount Temple. It is speculated that he went slightly off route at the grey cliff band where the scree...
Peaks near Pasu. Although the weather was not particularly good, we did climb some lovely 5000ers. On June 13, Robert Gruber ascended solo Sost Sar (c. 5200 meters, 17,061 feet) by its rocky south face. The peak lies north of Sost, a village just ...
Huandoy Oeste, West Ridge. A French expedition completed the first ascent of the west ridge of Huandoy Oeste (20,853 feet) on August 6, 1974. The climbers were J.-L. Guyonneau, J.-L. Joubert, V. Lant, G. Lemoine and A. Zagdoun. They ascended the R...
Pik Troglav, north summit, north face, second ascent; Khan Tengri, one day ascent. On July 26 Tine Marence and I arrived at South Inylchek Base Camp (4,000m), hoping to climb the south face of Pik Chapaev (6,371m). For our warm up and acclimatizat...
Mount Hood, Yokum Ridge. As we swung the car up the last few switchbacks to Timberline, Mount Hood stood crystalline clear against the blue sky. There had not been many clear days like this during the present season, and on the chance the weather ...
Gangapurna. A Japanese expedition from Osaka led by Toshio Noshi made a successful ascent of Gangapurna (24,457 feet) by the east ridge, the same route followed by the Germans in 1965. From their highest camp, Camp III at 20,675 feet, Takeshi Kiku...
Climber’s Guide to the Cascade and Olympic Mountains of Washington, Second Edition, by a committee of the Cascade Section of the American Alpine Club, chairman George R. Sainsbury, illustrations by Dee Molenaar. American Alpine Club, 1961. Price $...
AAC, South Central Section. Texas rock climbers from Austin, San Antonio, Dallas and Houston climbing clubs have been working with the Central Texas Climbing Committee and park staff on a conservation project at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area. ...
Big Baron Spire, Sawtooth Mountains. Dave Davis and I did the first ascent of the east face of this striking peak. The climb begins directly below the imposing summit capstone in a chimney/crack system. It is five pitches long with the crux a larg...
Antarctic. The only ascent made by the Argentine glaciological expedition from Belgrano Base was that of the nunatak called "Pantera” (Panther) by the Argentines in the Moltke Nunatak Group. The climb was made on November 28, 1958 by Dinko Bertonc...
Citadel, Northwest Buttress, Riesenstein, West Face and Kichatna Spire Attempt, Cathedral Spires, Kichatna Mountains. After landing on the Cool Sac Glacier with 25 days of food, Ed Newville and I attempted the west face of the 8000-foot “Riesenste...
Peak 7732, Chilliwacks. The first ascent of this peak, which is the highest point on the ridge between Redoubt Creek and Pass Creek and which overlooks Little Beaver Creek, was made by John Stout, Alfred Tatyrek, Marilyn Loranger, Ruth Ittner, and...