Mount Blackburn’s East RidgeCraig GaskillON MAY 21, 1982, we stood on the summit of Mount Blackburn. The mountain rises to 16,390 feet (4996 meters) in the Wrangell-Saint Elias National Park and Preserve in southern Alaska. Michael and Glenn Ruckh...
Munkhairkhan. The British Mongolian Altai Expedition consisted of Richard Wojtaszewski, Helen Sweet, Alan Hughes and me with Mongolian guides T. Byraa and Balto and cook Chegme. Our objective was the first ascent by Westerners of Munkhairkhan (420...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, NO EQUIPMENT, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount TeewinotOn September 22, about 1300, Jon Winiasz (23) and Eliot Kalmbach (24) were attempting to climb Mount Teewinot v...
ILLNESS AND FROSTBITE (TWO INCIDENTS)Washington, Mount RainierWhile on a summit climb on the morning of July 13 about 9:00 a.m., Dr. Walter Leonard (56) experienced extreme pain in his right abdomen and back. The climbers accompanying him called t...
One-Way TicketSurrealistic purity on the new French route up the north face of Thalay Sagar.Patrice Glairon-RappazI emerge from the portaledge a zombie. A quick glance at my watch, not for the time, but for the barometric pressure: it’s a bit bett...
Winter Sports Medicine. Murray J. Casey, Carl Foster, and Edward G. Hixson. F.A. Davis, Philadelphia, 1989. 425 pages, illustrated. $65.00.This is an excellent and needed addition to the growing library of sports medicine and will be of great valu...
The Mountains of America: From Alaska to the Great Smokies, by Franklin Russell. Introduction by Edward Abbey. New York: Harry Abrams, 1975 224 pages, 133 photos, 124 in color. Price: $40.00Not many years ago it was fashionable to talk about cheap...
Ihr Herren Berge, Menschen und Gipfel im Lande der Inka, by Günter Hauser. Stuttgart: Engelhornverlag, 1959. 256 pages; 46 ills, in black and white and 4 in color; 4 maps. Price DM 12.80.In the summer of 1957 a lightweight German expedition of the...
Troll Wall, Rimmon Route, First Female Solo Ascent. The route I did was the Rimmon Route. It is about 800 meters and 20 pitches long. In addition, one has to climb two pitches to get to the wall. I began my solo ascent on July 25, 1994, and spent ...
The Flame of Adventure. Simon Yates. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2001. 220 pages, with 8 pages of color photos. $16.95What’s with these Brits? They climb so well, yet drink so hard, smoke so much and hurt themselves so often you wonder how go...
Canyonlands. In the Canyonlands, several new important climbs have been made on the larger spires. Undoubtedly the increased use of Friends in desert climbing will see more new and demanding free climbs in the near future. In April of 1979 several...
Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Number of Persons InvolvedInjuredKilledYearUSA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942—256—231—019—2196047—464—1237—819—41961...
Darrah-e-Abi, Central Hindu Kush. Three members of the Cambridge University Mountaineering Club, John Ashburner, Paul Newby and I, visited the Afghan Hindu Kush for two months. We drove across the Middle East in a Land-Rover, arriving in Kabul on ...
On June 23, Carlos Abad (26), Jane Tennessen (33), and Glen Tietgen (35), fell 816 feet from Muralla Grande, a massive face of granite east of Albuquerque. They were ascending a route called Warpy Moople (III, 5.9), a climb with eight pitches. T...
Cordillera Vilcanota—1969John RickerNaming of Andean Peaks. As previously suggested many times in this journal, local names for peaks should be sought out and used. Barring this, descriptive names in Quechua or at least Spanish are acceptable. Nam...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Nez Perce—On August 4, Tim Bond (24) and Sally Bond (23), in conjunction with Fritz Ermarth (19), Mike Ermarth (16), and Julie Peterson (30), were climbing the East Ridge of Nez Perce. Two other parties were als...
Watchtower, Northeast Face, Cirque of Towers. On June 27, Matt Hale and I made the first ascent of this fine, though by no means extreme, face. Ours seemed to be the easiest line, though others were obviously possible. From Cirque Lake climb the c...
Manaslu from the WestAKIRA TAKAHASHITranslated bv ICHIRO YOSHIZA WAMANASLU (26,760 feet), the first Japanese 8000er, was climbed from the east by the Japanese Alpine Club under the leadership of Yuko Maki in 1956 after previous attempts in 1953 an...
Changping Valley, Dorsal Peak, first ascent; Jiang Jun Feng, southwest ridge. On April 3 two friends and I found ourselves on top a previously unclimbed peak for the first time in our lives. This was not the culmination of a lengthy expedition to ...
What do you need for a good trip? A partner, a mountain, and a bit of luck? The first was easy. My climbing partnership with Nick Bullock had been forged over the last few years, strengthened through friendship, mutual respect, and trust in each o...