FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, UNCLEAR LEADERSHIP/DECISION MAKINGNew York, AdirondacksOn Saturday morning, March 11, 1989, Linda Hepburn (36) arrived with four companions (Art Portmore, Patrick Clark, Peter Osborne, and Mike Douglass) at the b...
FALL OR SLIP ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY, INEXPERIENCEDNorth Carolina, Looking Glass RockOn May 8, a male climber (31) and his female partner were attempting an unknown rock climb when he fell and broke his ankle. It was broken on both sides and wil...
The Ski Troops, by Hal Burton. New York, Simon and Schuster, 1971. 192 pages, with 14 photographs and two sketches by George Earle.In The Ski Troops Hal Burton tells the story of the formation and training of the 10th Mountain Division and its com...
Logan, Atlantic Peak, Badham and Donjek. A number of expeditions successfully climbed Mount Logan. The following completed the climb by the King Trench: Canadians Larry Dolecki, Myron Tetrault, Richard Peters and Stuart O’Connor climbed the mounta...
AVALANCHE, CLIMBING ALONE, LATE STARTColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Tyndall GlacierOn November 9, 1991, at 1400, Dan Hepburn (26) triggered an avalanche while ascending Tyndall Glacier in Rocky Mountain National Park. Hepburn was only 40 ...
Ama Dablam. On March 31, Jim Quirk and I arrived at the beautiful Mingbo Valley Base Camp. After an abortive attempt that ended in storm at 21,500 feet on April 4, we regained the southwest ridge on April 8 and bivouacked at 19,000 feet. On the 9t...
Happy Days in the BergellEdward HartmannI HAVE always taken great pleasure in reading the articles in the Alpine Journals and have thought the authors must have found equal enjoyment in writing them and thus bringing back memories of their past cl...
EXPOSURE, FROSTBITE, EXCEEDING ABILITIES—Maine, Mt. Katahdin. Toward the end of January 1974, Bob Proudman (25), Paul DiBello (23), Mike Cohen (30), Doug George (23), Page Dinsmore (19), and Tom Keddy (26) were in Baxter State Park for a winter at...
FROSTBITE, EXPOSURE,WEATHER Alaska, Mount ForakerOn April 4, 1993, the Alaskan Archangel Expedition, consisting of eight British servicemen, flew into Lake Minchumina for the approach to Mount Foraker.On April 5, they began their approach up the F...
Dhaulagiri, ascents, attempts, and tragedies. On October 12 the Spanish climber, José Antonio ‘Pepe’ Garces, the leader of a small Spanish-Italian expedition to the Normal Route up the northeast ridge, was killed when he fell to his death from ca ...
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. The last two years have seen a continuation of the social events that have become traditional activities for many Section members, as well as an increased involvement in several climbing area problems. 1983 began wit...
Hassin Peak and the East Peak of Farol, attempts. On August 12 Steve Swenson and I, joined by Hans Mitterer from Germany, hiked up to the base of the west buttress of unclimbed Hassin Peak (ca. 6,300m) at the head of the Charakusa Glacier. Hassin ...
Everest in the Pre-Monsoon. Thirty-seven men (no women) climbed Everest this spring from Nepal in a rather straightforward fashion. No one suffered serious frostbite, altitude-measuring devices were installed at the summit, several hundred empty o...
Nanga Purbat, Diamir Face. Czechs Josef Rakoncaj, leader, Josef Nežerka, Michal Bruner, Martin Kejr, Miroslav Mžourek and German Günter Koch established Base Camp below the Diamir Face on June 12. Camps were placed on the Kinshofer route. After a ...
LIGHTNING – IGNORED CLOUD BUILD UP, POOR POSITION, FALL ON ROCK, UNKNOWN RAPPEL ERROR – EXACERBATED BY COLD HANDS AND INEXPERIENCEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonPrior to the beginning of this storm, members of all parties described...
Staunings Alps, Various Ascents. Expedition members Colwyn Jones (leader), John Bickerdike, Ian Angell, Brian Shackleton, Gordon and Susan MacKenzie, Jonathon Preston and Stephen Reid were fortunate to be landed by a ski-equipped Twin Otter on Col...
The Pressure Melting Point of Ice and the Excavation of Cirques and Valley Steps by GlaciersJoel E. FisherRecent studies1 have developed a now well-established principle that outside the arctic the temperature of all glaciers 10 or 20 meters below...
Michael S. Martin 1940 - 2001Michael S. Martin drowned September 6, 2001, near the completion of a solo hike up the Upper Black Box Canyon in Utah. He was 61 years old. Mike had recently returned to Denver from a trip to the Tetons and had spent 1...
Exploring Idaho’s Mountains: A Guide for Climbers, Scramblers and Hikers. Tom Lopez. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1990. 288 pages, black-and-white photographs, maps, appendices, index. $16.95 (paper).Idaho has countless summits scattered across, by ...
Alpine Ways is first and last a picture book; the text serves merely as an introduction to and commentary on Mr. Smythe’s photographs. It is adequate to this purpose, but one would have been grateful for the photographic data—choice of stops, leng...