Mt. Kitchener, Rights of Passage, second ascent. The welcoming heat of late June had us on the Icefields Parkway to attempt Eric Dumerac’s route, Rights of Passage. Eamonn Walsh, Greg Thaczuk, and I left in early afternoon and made our way to the ...
On October 17, 1978, Vera Watson fell to her death on Annapurna I. She and Alison Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz were climbing roped together on a steep, icy slope near Camp V when they apparently slipped. Both were killed. Earlier that day they had left C...
Ten years ago I tried to climb in the Arrigetch but failed to do anything, because of rain. I returned in July 2010 with Claudia Nestler and food for 32 days. Nevertheless, we had only five days without rain, operating from a base camp on Arrigetc...
FRANCOIS EMILE MATTHES 1874-1948Mountain climbing was for François Matthes all in the day’s work. Yet he enjoyed this, as he did every process by which he enriched his knowledge of the earth’s surface and the physical causes of its conditioning. H...
Alma Negra and Cerro Negro, Second Ascents, Cordón de la Ramada. Hermann Joos, Héctor de la Vega, Juan Carlos Damonte Taboda, Daniel Burlon, Irene Rost, Helga Brimmer and I on February 12 left the junction of the Colorado and Patos rivers, which i...
Iowa Mountaineers. In 1950 the Club enjoyed its largest membership—1322. The budget permitted purchase of essential new equipment, including a Club bus of special design and two 16-mm. cameras. Five 16-mm. color films of Club expeditions were edit...
Noshaq and Neighboring Peaks. On July 7 Ambros and Anton Aich- horn, Günter Brenner, Oswald Kollreider, Herbert Müller and I as leader left Austria in a VW bus and a VW bug for the 5000-mile trip, which went without a hitch. In Kabul, the Afghan c...
MARGARET YOUNG 1932–1979Margaret Young, an AAC member since 1973, died of cancer on June 17, 1979, after a 27-year mountaineering career including climbs in the U.S.A., Canada, Mexico, Ecuador, Bolivia, Kenya, Iran, Afghanistan, Russia, Nepal, and...
Aconcagua, Mobitel’s Swallow-Johan’s Route. Slovene mountaineers Tomaz Humar and Ales Kozelj climbed the south face of Aconcagua by a new route in the last days of December. The new route is dedicated to Humar’s late partner Janez Jeglic, who suff...
Deltaform Mountain, North Face. Certain mountains grab us when we first see them; they remain with us until we can work them out of our system. Such was the 4000-foot north face of Deltaform Mountain, and the sinuous ice couloir that works its way...
Peaks in the Lindberg Bjerge; Cathedral and Other Peaks in the Lemon Bjerge. Our expedition was composed of Gary Baum, Luke Bartlett, Luke Hughes, Robin Illingworth, William Pelkey, Michael Woolridge and me as leader. We landed at 68°54'N, 32°08'W...
Ghul Lasht Zom South, Spanish Ascent. A Spanish expedition was composed of Fernando Martínez Perez. César Pérez de Tudela, Angel González, Carlos Romero, Francisco Caro and Elena de Pablo. The first four reached the summit (c.21,000 feet) from Cam...
The Lure of the CanyonlandsJohn HarlinTo THE MODERN rock climber, the possibilities for ascending new routes seem to be diminishing rapidly. People have visited just about every scraggly crag—and to pluck a new gem often requires 1) intimate knowl...
AVALANCHEColorado, Little Bear Peak, Standard Hourglass RouteOn January 10 around 1100, a male (22) and his sister (20) were climbing Little Bear Peak via the Standard West Ridge Hourglass Route. Weather conditions for several days had been mostly...
ALBERT H. MacCARTHY1876-1956Albert H. MacCarthy, who died last October after an illness of more than a year, was one of the most rugged mountaineers of our time. At forty-eight and forty-nine he led the reconnaissance, winter freighting trip, and ...
The past year, 1953, with which this report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club deals was an average year when compared with previous years. The total number of accidents and deaths resulting from “mountaineering” activities which ...
The Mountains of IcelandHenry A. PerkinsIT was a combination of Jules Verne and hay fever that was responsible for my first trip to Iceland in the summer of 1900. Reading A Journey to the Center of the Earth as a boy had created an urge to see tha...
Ishinca and. Urus. The group I guided was prevented from doing higher climbs by unsafe snow conditions. We did make the following climbs: Ishinca Chico (17,142 feet) by Antoinette Thomasson, French; Fred Gredig, Robert Britschgi, Hugo Flüler, Erns...
FALL ON ICE, POOR POSITION, PLACED NO PROTECTION Alaska, Mount ForakerOn June 8, 1991, while descending an icy couloir on approach to the Infinite Spur on the south side of Mount Foraker, William McConachie (McC—39) fell and, unable to self-arrest...
A Life on the Edge: Memoirs of Everest and Beyond. Jim Whittaker. Seattle: Mountaineers Books. 24 color photos, 50 black-and-white photos. 272 pages. $24.95.The superb description by Jon Krakauer of the tragedy on Mt. Everest has increased the aud...