Huantsán, North Face, New Route. Slovenian climbers Grega Lacen, Matej Flis and Iztok Mihev climbed a new route on the north face of Huantsan (6395m). They entered the face on June 29 at midnight and reached the top at 8 p.m. the next day. They ar...
Koh-e-Bandaka. The Aichigakuin University Expedition climbed Koh-e- Bandaka (22,451 feet). Masami Namikawa was leader, Takuro Sakai headed scientific research and Michio Yuasa was climbing leader. Others were Hajime Hanamura, Yoshitaka Kuromiya, N...
STRANDED, FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLEDVirginia, Seneca RocksIn early April, a climber (age unknown) started soloing a chimney on the West Face of the North Peak. He got up 15 or 20 feet and decided that he would rather have a rope, so his partn...
Trois Curés en Montagne, by Jean Sarenne. 234 pages and 15 illustrations. Paris and Grenoble: B. Arthaud, 1950.Chance encounter with copies of La Montagne arouses a passion that drives its subjects from humble beginnings on a local hillside to acq...
Monte Balmaceda Attempt. I accompanied a nine-member expedition of the Federación de Andinismo de Chile to the east-northeastern side of Monte Balmaceda (2050 meters, 6726 feet) in Chilean Patagonia in February. The members were Claudio Gálvez, le...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INEXPERIENCENew Hampshire, Frankenstein CliffsOn January 18, 1985, a climber took a leader fall on Standard, sustaining a broken ankle and neck injury. With the help of other climbers and the use of a New Hampsh...
P 5036, P 5716, P 6781, P 7023 and P 7709, Thompson Ridge, Chugach Mountains. In May, a joint St. Elias Alpine Guides and American Alpine Institute expedition led by Bob Jacobs spent eight days in the Bagley Icefield region. From a 5100-foot camp ...
Cho Oyu Attempt. A team of eight Britons, an American and a New Zealander, led by Steven Berry, attempted to climb Cho Oyu by ascending the right side of the south face to the east ridge. They established four camps on the face, the highest at 23,...
In August, Jim Earl and I established a new route up the 1,000- meter north face of Nevado Ulta. The route begins on the left side of the northwest bowl (sometimes called the north bowl), starting farther left than the Berube-Frimer 2002 attempt, ...
Mount Hayes, West Ridge Attempt. On July 1 we began ferrying loads across the Big Delta River above the Black Rapids Glacier. Five days were spent in humping loads to Base Camp beneath Hayes’ southwest cirque. On July 8 we received an airdrop from...
Colchuck Peak. On August 9, Keith Hertel and I did a new but unpleasant route on the clean-looking face and slabs on the east face of the northeast buttress of Colchuck Peak, left of the standard northeast-buttress route. We climbed the Colchuck G...
Ama Dablam, Pre-Monsoon Ascents, Tragedy, Attempt. All four premonsoon expeditions to Ama Dablam were on the normal route, the southwest ridge. A pair of Americans, David Nettle and James Quirk, reached the summit on April 10. Seven Spaniards were...
Punta Margherita, Ruwenzori. The first ascent of the west face of the Punta Margherita, the highest summit of the Ruwenzori group, was made by the 73-year-old Piero Ghiglione and three other Italians (ethnologist Giorgio Gualco, cameraman Giorgio ...
UNCONTROLLED HEAD FIRST RAPPEL, NO RELAYWisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn July 20, 1991, Martin Bordson (29) was doing a head first 70 foot rappel when he lost control and hit the ground, breaking both wrists. (Source: Visitor Accident Report, ...
Mount Wake and Surrounding Peaks, Various Ascents. “L’equipe jeunes” of the Fédération Française de la Montagne et Escalade (FFME) enjoyed an expedition to Alaska last spring. Their objective was Mount Wake (2774 m) in the Ruth Gorge. They arrived...
Nanga Parbat Attempt from the Rupal Flank via Rakhiot Peak. A ten-member British commercial expedition was guided by Jonathan Tinker and Mark Miller and included five other Britons and three Americans. Their plan was to attempt a new route from th...
Revelation Mountains. From June 11 to 28 Wolfgang Herzog, Thomas Strobl and I made a ski traverse of McKinley from the Kahiltna Glacier to Wonder Lake, climbing both the north and south summits. We were then landed by float plane on a small lake b...
A Taste of Karakoram IceExploring the early-season potential above the Trango Glacier.Dodo KopoldIn the Himalayas I don’t look for adventure on the classic routes, where you stumble over hundreds of people. I don’t look for it even on the routes t...
Five Koreans led by Kim Hyung-il attempted the east face of Jannu (presumably Jannu East, though the exact line is unknown). On April 22 they reached 5,900m, after which heavy snowfall confined them to base camp. On May 3 they started again and on...
Geographical DistrictsAccidents1947–19581959Atlantic States—North 297South 40Central 20 Colorado 536Utah & New Mexico82 Wyoming 407South Dakota01Montana & Idaho81Arizona & Nevada 51 California 523 ...