Columbia Icefield—A Solitude of Ice. Don Harmon (Photographer), Bart Robinson (Writer). The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1981. 103 pages, black and white and color photographs, maps, glossary, bibliography. $29.95.Even with the flood of heroic tales and...
Devil’s Thumb and Kate’s Needle. Eric Trouillot and I spent three weeks in May skiing and climbing in the Stikine Icecap area on the Alaskan-British Columbian border. Our major climbing objective was the Devil’s Thumb (2767 meters, 9078 feet), who...
OFF ROUTE, FALLING ROCK, FALL ON ROCK–RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILURE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWashington, North Cascades National Park, Sharkfin TowerOn July 10, a six-person team set out to climb Sharkfin Tower in North Cascades National Park. After a glacie...
Kangchenjunga from the East, Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition was jointly sponsored by the Himalayan Association of Japan and the Indo-Tibetan Border Police under the auspices of the Indian Mountaineering Foundation. Hukam Singh was the overall ...
Honboro Peak and Chogolisa, Attempts, and Daare Peak, Ascent. We arrived in Hushe on June 19 and established Base Camp two days later at 4225 meters aside the Honboro Glacier at the base of Honboro Peak. After surveying the mountain, we decided th...
Aspiring, by W. Scott Gilkison. 80 pages of text, including sketch maps and numerous illustrations. Christchurch, N. Z.: Whitcomb and Tombs, Ltd.Well written and attractively illustrated, this short book is about one of New Zealand’s finest mounta...
Jaca Peak (3,372m), southeast face; Vinson West, Galfrío Route; Mt. Vinson (4,897m), Friendship Banana Gully to Branscomb ridge. On December 23 Chus (María Jesús) Lago and I attempted a new route on Vinson West face, but our backpacks were too hea...
Rensselaer Mountaineering Club. Spring activities of the Rensselaer Mountaineering Club consisted largely of rock-climbing trips to the Sha- wangunk cliffs with the accent on the development of leaders. The club’s annual ice climb of the dyke on M...
Kokshaal-Tau, Various Ascents. From July 18-August 26, the united team of Moscow district climbed in the West Kokshaal-Tau. The chief of the expedition was Boris Starostin; the trainers were Fedor Akhmatov, Valerii Boiko, Victor Efimov and Eugeny ...
FALL ON ROCK – OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HELMETCalifornia, Mono County, Inyo National Forest, Third Pillar of DanaOn August 30 Jeff Maurer (47) and Jo-Lynne DeNapoli (36) were planning on climbing the Regular Route of the Third Pillar o...
Pungpa Ri Second Ascent and Shisha Pangma Attempt. Our expedition was a joint civilian and military operation with a 17-member climbing team led by Lieutenant Colonel Henry Day and a 12-member scientific team led by Colonel John Blashford-Snell. T...
Wakhan Corridor, Koh-e-Bardar (6,078m), previously unreported first ascent. In late spring 2005 Mark Jenkins and I spent two-and-a-half weeks in the Wakhan Corridor, traveling its entire length with Greg Mortenson to visit schools that Mortenson i...
California, Yosemite Valley. On June 7th Mike Blake (age 19) and Jerry Vogler (33) were completing an ascent of the Nose of El Capitan. Vogler had reached the summit slabs at the top of the bolt ladder and tied off the rope to his second. Blake wa...
Shipton’s Arch, First Ascent. In May, Sam Lightner, Nancy Feagin, Jeremy Schmidt, Gordon Wiltsie, and I went on a mini-adventure to revisit an arch originally introduced to the western world by Eric Shipton. The arch lies in the Kara Tagh, a tiny ...
West of the DivideSterling B. Hendricks and George I. BellIIN the Canadian Rockies west of the Continental Divide, between Howse and Fortress Passes, there is a pure wilderness which, being difficult of access and rich in unclimbed peaks, offers a...
Roeland Bom, Bart Klein, Daniel Kuipers (leader), and I wanted to travel to an adventurous part of the world, without many climbers, within our limited budget, and with mountains below 6,000m. Our gaze had already turned towards the stan countries...
Khhang Shiling (6,360m), first ascent. A three-member team sponsored by The Himalayan Club made the first ascent of Khhang Shiling peak (6,360m–20,866') on 19th September assisted by Sherpa Lakhpa Bhote. (“Khhang Shiling” means “Snow Mountain of f...
Mount Blackburn’s East RidgeCraig GaskillON MAY 21, 1982, we stood on the summit of Mount Blackburn. The mountain rises to 16,390 feet (4996 meters) in the Wrangell-Saint Elias National Park and Preserve in southern Alaska. Michael and Glenn Ruckh...
Munkhairkhan. The British Mongolian Altai Expedition consisted of Richard Wojtaszewski, Helen Sweet, Alan Hughes and me with Mongolian guides T. Byraa and Balto and cook Chegme. Our objective was the first ascent by Westerners of Munkhairkhan (420...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, NO EQUIPMENT, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount TeewinotOn September 22, about 1300, Jon Winiasz (23) and Eliot Kalmbach (24) were attempting to climb Mount Teewinot v...