False Cape Renard, Zerua Peak, Azken Paradizua. From Cape Horn on December 10, my brother Iker, filmmakers Jabi Baraiazarra and Gotxon Arribas, and I sailed the legendary, harrowing, Drake Passage to Antarctica in the Northanger. Four long days fr...
Meru Central, spring attempt and successful autumn first ascent. On his second visit to the Gangotri in 2001, Valeri Babanov from Russia made the much sought after first ascent of 6310m Meru Central, commonly referred to as The Shark’s Fin. Before...
Bhagirathi II. A team from near Calcutta was led by Miss Bani Bose. The peak was climbed on June 6 by Miss Bose, Debashish Mitra, Kamal Mukherjee and two high-altitude porters.Kamal K. Guha. Editor, Himavanta, India
Carstenz Range. On October 15 the American-Indonesian Puncak Jaya Expedition landed in the Illaga valley in Irian Jaya, the Indonesian half of New Guinea. Our party was composed of Dan Emmett, Phil Trimble and me from the United States and Frank M...
Kangchenjunga: The Untrodden Peak, by Charles Evans, London: Hodder and Stoughton, 1956. 187 pages; 5 pages of color and 32 pages of black and white illustrations; 5 large diagrams; 2 maps. Price 25 s. Kangchenjunga is a great mountain book. Unpre...
AccidentsGeographical Districts1947-19561957Atlantic States—North223South22Central20Colorado457Utah and New Mexico53Wyoming296Montana and Idaho80Arizona and Nevada50California414Oregon221Washington3919Alaska40Practice Cliffs—all areas144TerrainRoc...
FALL/SLIP ON ICE, FAILURE TO PLACE PROTECTION, NO HARD HAT—Washington, Mt. St. Helens. Ken Stroud (25) and Steven Carey (22), both respected and experienced climbers, died on Mt. St. Helens after an apparent fall into a crevasse.Analysis: Our obse...
RAPPEL ANCHOR ERROR—INADEQUATE PROTECTION, FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HATColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Lumpy RidgeOn December 2, Greg Levine (28) and a female companion decided to retreat from the first pitch of Hand Over Hand (I, 5.7) on Bat...
FALLING ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HARD HATOntario, Kelso Conservation AreaOn July 8, 1979, John Pierce (21), Donald Campbell (21), and Donald Collier (21) were climbing on the 70-foot rock face at Kelso Conservation Area, near Toronto. This ...
Cerro Cota 2000, The Keyhole Route (a.k.a. Eli’s Wet Dream). On December 20, 1996, Eli Helmuth, Gardner Heaton and I arrived in the Valle Francaise of Parque Nacional Torres Del Paine in southern Chile. Cerro Cota 2000 is visible through the beech...
Gasherbrum I and II, Ascents. It was reported that Iñaki Ochoa (29) of Spain completed ascents of both Gasherbrum I (8065 m) and Gasherbrum II (8035 m) in July. He began on July 10 with an ascent of GI, then moved on to GII, which he climbed in a ...
Icy Peak, North Face. A glacier climb with steep sections.
Chaupi Orco Norte to Chaupi Orco, Traverse. On May 26, British La Paz residents Yossi Brain and Pete Grosset, together with visiting Brits Glen Wilks and John Mudway, climbed Chaupi Orco Norte (6000m) in the northern Apolobamba, believing it to be...
Thalay Sagar, Northeast Buttress. A seven-man Polish-Norwegian team set up Base Camp at 4700 meters on August 1. Two members dropped out because of sickness. The remaining five, Poles Janusz Skorek and Andrezej Czok and Norwegians Hans Christian D...
Mount Harmon, Olive Ridge Spires and Black Fang, Scottish Peaks. The Scottish Peaks rise from the Catamount Glacier about 15 miles south of the Bugaboos. Although smaller and lower than the Bugaboos, their rock is of the same excellent quality. We...
P 6131 Ascent and Tragedy. The well known Indian climber Asit Kumar Moitra led an eight-man team composed of Samir Bhattacharya, Manas Bardhan, Nabagopal Basak, Ramjan Bose, Krishna Ganguli, Asish Roy and Sanjoy Roy. They set up three high camps a...
Phillip Smith Mountains. We made a new route from the upper Ribdon to the headwaters of the Wind River, traversing the ridge west of Windy Glacier and descending onto the ice. The upper Ribdon is endowed with alpine meadows, limestone buttresses, ...
Unnamed Peak, First Ascent. It was reported that on June 14, prior to his second (again unsuccessful) attempt to ski K2, Hans Kammerlander led a large party of clients to the top of a previously unclimbed ca. 6000-meter peak. The peak is located t...
Cho Oyu from the South, Pre-Monsoon. Cho Oyu (8201 meters, 26,906 feet) continues to be a popular objective, the west side often being reached from Nepal. Alain Hantz, leader of a group of six Frenchmen, climbed to the summit of Cho Oyu with Nepal...
Sosbun Tower Attempt. Tilman described the peaks of the Hoh Valley as “an uncompromising rock wall crowned with jagged towers,” but the attraction of these towers is deceptive; the rock everywhere is dangerous: enormous, rotten loose rocks and cra...