Book Reviews AAJ
Trail Country: Olympic National Park

Trail Country: Olympic National Park, by Robert L. Wood. Seattle, Washington: The Mountaineers, 1968. 298 pages, 24 photographs, 24 maps. Price: $6.95.Drawing on 20 years of research and study of the Olympic Peninsula, and 20 summers spent largely...


Club Activities AAJ
The Mountaineers

The Mountaineers. Interest in The Mountaineer Climbing Course continued high during 1965, with 274 students in the Basic Course and 61 new enrollees in the Intermediate Course. A record 106 climbers graduated from the Basic Course, while 12 receiv...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Real and Cordillera Occidental

Cordillera Real and Cordillera Occidental. My wife Ria and I were in the field from August 3 to September 14. We first climbed in the Cordillera Real from the valley of Río Palcoco and Laguna Khunu Kkota. Base Camp was at 4800 meters at the tongue...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C. Oregon Section

A.A.C., Oregon Section. During the past year the Section lost two of its oldest members, Beatrice de Lacy and Fred Ayres, and gained ten new ones giving a current total of 51. At our regular dinner meetings we were entertained by Price Zimmermann’...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Kula Kangri, Third Ascent

Kula Kangri, Third Ascent. It was reported that a Spanish expedition made the third ascent of Kula Kangri (7554m) in May. Base camp was established on May 4; by May 15, a route that roughly followed the west ridge had been established to Camp II a...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Vinson Massif

Vinson Massif. On November 27, Reinhold Messner, Wolfgang Tomaseth and I reached the highest point of Antarctica 26 hours after Giles Kershaw had landed us below the peak. The weather was wonderful and the climb, during which we slept at what is n...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Chinchey

Chinchey. Our group consisted of Dennis Hegyi, E. Gregory Lee, Neil E. Paton, Timothy J. Ryan, Anthony W. Thompson, Joseph M. Weiss and me. We were international since Paton is from New Zealand and I am from the Netherlands, although the rest are ...


Club Activities AAJ
New York Section

Kangerdlugssuaq Mountains, first ascents. To celebrate the centenary of the Cambridge University Mountaineering Club, eight members planned an expedition to East Greenland during July. As our departure time from the U.K. approached, it became obvi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Everest Ascent and Tragedy

Everest Ascent and Tragedy. A Spanish Catalan expedition led by Lluis Belvis was composed of 22 members, including a film crew, doctor and scientist. They hoped to climb the west ridge of Everest. Base Camp was established at 5320 meters on August...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rocks, Weather

FALLING ROCKS, WEATHER Wyoming, TetonsRobert (51), Bob (21) and David (16) Frank signed out at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station on August 1, 1985, for a climb of the Skillet Glacier on Mt. Moran the following day. They left the String Lake trailhead ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Argentine Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Fitz Roy, Supercanaleta

Fitz Roy, Supercanaleta. Max Berger, Jérome Blanc-Gras, and I made a winter ascent of Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy on August 9. Ours was the third or fourth winter ascent, the first reported winter ascent having been made by Argentine climbers.Condit...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, Mount Dawson, North Face, Selkirk Range, 1988

Mount Dawson, North Face, Selkirk Range, 1988. Fred Beckey, Dave Pollari and I approached the Dawson group from Rogers Pass on August 2, 1988, crossing the Illecillewaet Icefield to the Glacier Circle Hut. After a day of rain, we climbed over the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Mt. Foster, Mt. Parry, Savoia, False Cape Renard, Wandel Peak, Mt. Statham, Lars Christensen Peak Antarctica, Antarctic Peninsula

The highlight of the Antarctic season was undoubtedly the string of big climbs done by the French team of Mathieu Cortial, Lionel Daudet, and Patrick Wagnon, traveling aboard Isabelle Autissier’s Ada II. This was Daudet's third voyage to the...

| Published 2010 | Author Damien Gildea


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Exceeding Abilities, Exhaustion, Inexperience, Washington, Leavenworth

FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, EXHAUSTION,INEXPERIENCEWashington, LeavenworthOn April 19, 1987, Larry Laske (24) reported that he had successfully led two pitches of 5.8 on Airy Canary on Castle Rock and wanted more of a challenge. He started ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Garhwal, Bhagirthi II

Bhagirathi II. A five-man Japanese expedition led by Mineo Kawai climbed Bhagirathi II (6512 meters, 21,365 feet) by its east face. Base Camp was set up on July 23. After reconnoitering the north face, they turned to the east face. Camps I and II ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Alaska: Kenai Peninsula

Alaska: Kenai Peninsula. While hiking on the Spencer Galcier in the Kenai Peninsula, Gerald Rose, 21, fell into a crevasse and was killed. His companion, Robert Rose, 23, went for help. Rescue operations were hampered by bad weather, including 60-...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Pico Polaco (Cerro de los Polacos, ca 6,000m), Southeast Face, Acecho Felino South America, Argentina, Central Andes, Cordillera de la Ramada

While the highest peak in the Ramada is Mercedario, the most attractive is Polaco, immediately south. In January Javier Giuliani, Juan Manuel Leániz, and Fabrizio Oieni (Argentina) were active in this area. From the standard base camp at Pirca ...

| Published 2011 | Author Marcelo Scanu, Argentina


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Object, Inadequate Protection, Fall on Rock, California, Yosemite Valley

FALLING OBJECT, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, FALL ON ROCK California, Yosemite ValleyOn June 22, 1989, about 1100, Trenton Cladouhos (23) was on the sixth pitch of the standard route, Northwest Face, Half Dome, climbing and trailing a haul line. His hau...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Trango Towers

Trango Towers. Five expeditions climbed on the Trango Towers this season. Three parties attempted a new route on the east face of the Nameless Tower: Pole Wojciech Kurtyka with three Japanese, the American group described in this journal and Frenc...


Book Reviews AAJ
Deborah: A Wilderness Narrative

Deborah: A Wilderness Narrative, by David Roberts. New York: The Vanguard Press, 1970. 188 pages, 15 photographs, $6.95Who has not had at least one mountain experience ruined by some kind of intrapersonal conflict? Planning may be flawless, weathe...