Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Ruth Gorge, Mount Bradley, South Pillar

Mount Bradley, South Pillar. It was reported that in 1995, Austrian Andreas Orgler climbed the 1200-meter south pillar of Mount Bradley over five days in July at a grade of VII+ and A3 with partners Neswabba and Wusther. He was awarded the Piolet ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded, Unable to Find Route, Weather, Inadequate Equipment, Exhaustion, Hypothermia, Etc., Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs Peak

STRANDED, UNABLE TO FIND ROUTE, WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXHAUSTION, HYPOTHERMIA, ETC. Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn September 12, 1993, at 2330, Rocky Mountain National Park rangers were notified about an overdue part...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Nojin Kasang, Attempt from the North

Nojin Kangsang, attempt from the north. During August 2000 the Japanese climber, Tadakiyo Sakahara, made the first ascent of the East Ridge as reported in AAJ 2001. The 56-year-old mountaineer returned in 2001 and set up base camp once again on th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma Central (West) Summit

Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma Central (West) Summit. Our expedition was composed of leader Benoît Chamoux, Frédéric Valet, Yves Detry, Pierre Royer, French, Mauro Rossi, Italian, Josef Rokoncaj, Czechoslovakian and me, British. All seven climbers were...


Accident Reports ANAM
Failure to Follow Route, Darkness, Party Separated—California, Mt. Mills

FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, DARKNESS, PARTY SEPARATED— California, Mt. Mills. Steve Lester (29) of Alhambra went on alone to climb Mt. Mills when his partner Hans Torgenson (29) turned back. Lester climbed the difficult face, turned back at the summi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat Attempt on Rupal Face

Nanga Parbat Attempt on Rupal Face. A strong South Korean expedition led by Hong Seon-Yoon set up Camps I and II at 5000 and 6100 meters on June 9 and 18. They could get no higher, having only four days of good weather out of the forty they were t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, P 9650 and Attempt on Mount Hesperus, Revelation Mountains

P 9650 and Attempt on Mount Hesperus, Revelation Mountains. The Revelations are located in the Lime Hills area of south-central Alaska, some 120 miles west of Anchorage. Though incredibly scenic, they lack the uniform appearance and sound rock fou...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection, Self-Belay Failure, Alberta, Kananaskis Valley, Kidd Falls

FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, SELF-BELAY FAILURE Alberta, Kananaskis Valley, Kidd FallsOn November 23, S.M. (21) and a partner set off to climb the big waterfall below Mount Kidd's Gunbarrel Gully above Galatea Creek, obvious from Kananaskis...


Notes AAJ
Popocatepetl

Popocatepetl. The earliest English version of the first ascent on Popocatepetl, by Diego de Ordaz in 1520, is found in a chapter entitled “The hill called Popocatepec” in The Pleasant History of the Conquest of the Weast India (London, 1578), a fr...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall or Slip on Rock, Inadequate Equipment, Inadequate Protection, Failure to Follow Route, No Hard Hat — North Carolina, Looking Glass Rock, The Nose

FALL OR SLIP ON ROCK, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, NO HARD HATNorth Carolina, Looking Glass Rock, The NoseOn June 19, Keith Ballencourt (30) and two less experienced friends were climbing The Nose (5.8), on...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Ketil Attempt

Ketil Attempt. During four weeks in July and August, three Danes, Sören Smid, Uffe Mortensen and I, and Swede Magnus Nilsson climbed in the granite section of Tasermiut Fjord. Our main objective was the smooth west face of Ketil Fjeld. We gave up ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Cornice Failure, Avalanche—Disregarded Information Regarding Snowpack History, Weather, British Columbia, Mount Robson Provincial Park, Mount Robson, North Face

CORNICE FAILURE, AVALANCHE-DISREGARDED INFORMATION REGARDING SNOWPACK HISTORY, WEATHERBritish Columbia, Mount Robson Provincial Park, Mount Robson, North FaceOn July 28, a European mountain guide and a very experienced climber (38 and 49) left the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Ngojumba Kang and Cho Oyu

Ngojumba Kang and Cho Oyu. An expedition of twelve Poles and two Americans was led by Waclaw Otreba. The Americans were Mark Richey and Rick Wilcox. They hoped to climb the south face of Ngojumba Kang to the col just west of the summit of that pea...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Attempt and Tragedy

Annapurna Attempt and Tragedy. A ten-man Spanish expedition to the north face of Annapurna was led by Juan Maldonado. The climb came to an abrupt halt when Andrés Ferrer died from head injuries received in a 300-meter fall. He fell while rappellin...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, New Altitude Measurements for Aconcagua and the Ojos del Salado

New Altitude Measurements for Aconcagua and the Ojos del Salado. In February, a team of Italian scientists from the University of Padua and Italian climbers, supported by the Argentine Institute of Glaciology and Nivology and Argentine climbers, m...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Mount Maude, Central Couloir

Mount Maude, Central Couloir, On July 19, Tim Boyer, his brother Keith, and I climbed the couloir in one day from the car. Apart from a short rock pitch to gain the snow above the bergschrund, the climb was uneventful 45°-50° snow (at the steepest...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Adela Group, Cerro Grande

Adela Group, Cerro Grande. In the Fitz Roy Range, in November, Italian Luca Maspes made two solo attempts on Techado Negro (located at the southern end of the Fitz Roy group) climbing 300m of mixed ground and bad rock. On December 5, Maspes and Ma...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Gigante Grande, Cordillera Quimsa Cruz

Gigante Grande, Cordillera Quimsa Cruz. On August 9 and 10, Kevin Starr and I climbed the western face of Gigante Grande (5749 meters, 18,862 feet), bivouacking near the summit and finishing the climb in a total whiteout at midday during an unseas...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, Exceeding Abilities, Failed to Follow Directions, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs Peak

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, FAILED TO FOLLOW DIRECTIONSColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn August 26 at noon, Spencer Hannah (32) and another teacher were leading a group of six juveniles and another teach...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Sierra National Forest, Balch Camp Flake, JCA's Wide World Of Sport

Sierra National Forest, Balch Camp Flake, JCA’s Wide World Of Sport. Normally I wouldn’t bother to report such a short route, but the uniqueness of this climb makes it significant. Balch Camp Flake is a 240-foot freestanding flake above the road t...