Expedición Navarra al Himalaya 79, by Gregorio Ariz (in Spanish). Pamplona, Spain: Grafinasa, 1979. 104 pages, 146 color photos, 10 drawings and maps.The seventh ascent of Dhaulagiri was accomplished in May 1979 by an expedition from northern Spai...
Another Gongga Shan Tragedy. A horror story comes from another Japanese attempt on Gongga Shan. The five-man, two-woman expedition was led by Hideaki Saito. They reached Base Camp at 11,500 feet on the Hailoko Glacier on March 19, hoping to comple...
Northeast of Angmagssalik, East Greenland. Clara and Leonardo Mosca with Jean Bich, Pacifico Pession and Marco Barmasse, guides from Valtournanche, climbed five peaks between 2755 and 4610 feet northeast of Angmagssalik.
P7629, P 7819 and P 8567, Bagley Icefield, Chugach Mountains. On May 30, Sean LaRiche, Chuck Ellington, Craig Truitt and I as leader were landed at 6000 feet some 30 miles northwest of Mount St. Elias. We set up Base Camp near the base of P 7629 a...
The south face of Ranrapalca (6,162m) ca 6km wide, with rock, ice, and snow rising for 750-850m. Peruvian mountaineers and guides (AGMP-UIAGM) Eloy Salazar Obregón, Octavio Salazar Obregón, and Eric Albino (aspirant guide) started in the Cojup V...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE SELF-BELAY California, Santa Barbara, San Ysidro RockExcerpts of an account sent to us by a climber (27) may be instructive for solo attempts on rock:I was climbing the 5.9 variation of Face Lift on San Ysidro Rock. It was...
Thamserku. Koreans led by Yong Tae-Shin climbed Thamserku by a new route, the east face to the south ridge. They had three high camps. Chang Jae-Shin, Jong Back-Ro and Sherpas Ang Dorje and Ang Temba reached the summit (6623 meters, 21,730 feet) o...
Chopicalqui, significant repeats. The Spanish climber Jordi Corominas made a rare repeat and possibly the first solo of what is thought to be the 1979 Japanese Route (Kamuro-Uejima) on the south face of Chopicalqui (6,395m). The steep face has a s...
Mount Hayes. On May 12 Larry Small, Jim Johnson and I left the Richardson Highway at Donneley’s Inn, crossed the innocent-looking Delta River and were on the way to the east ridge of Mount Hayes. Although previously climbed, this ridge held our im...
P 12,300, Fairweather Range. A full article appears earlier about the ascent of P 12,300 from the Pacific Ocean to the Grand Plateau and then to the summit.
FALL INTO MOAT, DESCENDING UNROPED, POOR POSITIONAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount NublockLate in the afternoon of June 2, 1989, J.N. (44) and A.N. (65) were descending unroped from an ascent of Mount Nublock. When they reached the steep headwall ab...
Possible Base for Mountaineers in India. The Himalayan Research Institute of the Roerich Museum, 310 Riverside Drive, New York City, has established a field headquarters in the Kulu Valley, Naggar, Northern Punjab, India. A permanent group of scie...
Kamet and Abi Gamin. An eight-member expedition from Bombay was led by Shrikant Oka. It left the roadhead at Malari on May 16 and set up Base Camp at 4725 meters at Vasudhara Tal. They were in close contact with the Army team, particularly for wea...
Peaks in Wakhan and Zebak Regions. The Polish Afghan Hindu Kush Expedition was composed of two groups: from Kraków-Lublin Stanislaw Biel, leader, J. Chmielewski, H. Cioncka, A. Janota, P. Jasinski, M. Kata, M. Kowalczyk, Z. Ryn, Z. Stepek, P. Tara...
Stanford Alpine Club. The club’s activities for the 1971 spring quarter were hampered unfortunately by the wetness of the weather. Nevertheless, trips to Yosemite Valley and Pinnacles National Monument were undertaken, and several one-day practice...
Everest. Of our commercial expedition, Americans Alex Lowe, Martyn William and I, Canadian Dan Culver and Soviet Aleksei Krasnokutsky were professional climbers who, along with Sherpas and eight other expeditions, fixed the mountain and prepared t...
Yalung Kang or Kangchenjunga West. The Kyoto University Academic Alpine Club Expedition led by Dr. Haruo Higuchi and Elizaburo Nishibori made the successful ascent of this high (27,625-foot) lower summit of Kangchenjunga. The top was reached on Ma...
Chamlang Attempt. Three Frenchmen under the leadership of Laurent Hallier attempted to climb Chamlang (7319 meters, 24,014 feet) by its north face but had to quit at 6400 meters on October 22.Elizabeth Hawley
Mustagh Ata, Sinkiang. The Russians also report the ascent of 24,383- foot Mustagh Ata, July 31, 1956, by an expedition under leadership of E. Beletsky, made up of 19 Russians and 12 Chinese. Our honorary members, H. W. Tilman and E. E. Shipton, r...
WEBBING ANCHOR “BBOKE FBEE,” INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn May 28, 1991, Mark Forsythe (28) fell about 70 feet after a climbing sling apparently “broke.” He had moved the protection that was on the top of the climb and ...