Book Reviews AAJ
The Abominable Snowman

The Abominable Snowman, by Ralph Izzard. 250 pages, 26 photographs. New York: Doubleday & Co., 1955. Price $4.00.The Abominable Snowman (Yeti) has a warm place in my heart because of a story my son told me. Some years ago he and some Sherpa po...


Club Activities AAJ
Alaska Alpine Club

Alaska Alpine Club. The 1960 climbing season began in February with a three-man party reaching the summit of Institute Peak (8000 feet) in the Alaska Range. In April, 20 people participated in a Castner Glacier trip, with eight climbers making the...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock, California, Yosemite Valley, Leaning Tower

FALLING ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Leaning TowerOn July 5, 1992, I spoke with Brad Young (32) at the Yosemite Medical Clinic about a climbing accident that he and his climbing partner Doug Burton (age not noted) were involved in on the Leani...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, P6100, Choktoi Glacier

P 6100, Choktoi Glacier. Spaniards Jon Lazcano and Javier Mugarra made the first ascent of a very difficult 6100-meters (29,013-foot) spire which rises above the Choktoi Glacier to the right of Baintha Brakk. They got to Base Camp on June 24. They...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Sickle Moon

Sickle Moon. A 26-man team from the Indian Army, led by Lieutenant Colonel D.N. Thanka, commandant of the High Altitude Warfare School, left Kishtwar on August 30. Havildar Major Tsering Norbu and Naik Nim Dorje climbed this virgin peak, Sickle Mo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Carabaya

Cordillera Carabaya. Dr. G. H. Francis and Dr. Alan T. Charig of the British Museum of Natural History, London, arrived in Peru to investigate what had been reported as possibly the world’s largest deposit of nepheline syenite, a rare rock rich in...


Accident Tables ANAM
New Mexico, Peñasco Springs

New Mexico, Peñasco Springs—On May 20, 1956 a fatal accident occurred on a private party trip to Peñasco Springs, New Mexico. The party consisted of Charles M. Williams (24), Sherman Marsh (21), Robert Lee (31) and Isaac Winograd (25). The group h...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Former USSR, Pamir Alai

Pamir Alai. A French group led by Pierre Faivre was composed of talented young alpinists: Frédéric Gentet, Robin Givet and Zébulon Roche. They made some excellent new rock routes, particularly on P 4240 and P 3850. They gave up their attempt on Pi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, P8233, Ruth Gorge and Other Peaks

P 8233, Ruth Gorge and Other Peaks. Stacy Taniguchi, Grant Henke, Dick Wheaton and I had a successful two weeks on the Ruth Glacier. We made the first ascent of P 8233, which lies south of Mount Dickey and west of Glacier Point. We first climbed a...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Khumbu Region, Mahalangur Himal, Everest, 2004 Summary

Everest, 2004 summary. During spring 2003, in the 50th anniversary season of Everest’s first ascent, a record number of men and women had turned up to climb to its summit, and it was assumed that the numbers would decrease after that. Wrong assump...


In Memoriam AAJ
Benjamin Sayre Comstock, 1859-1941

BENJAMIN SAYRE COMSTOCK1859-1941Benjamin Sayre Comstock, the son of Lydia Sayre and George Wells Comstock, was born in New York City in 1859, in a house which stood at Broadway and 34th Street, the present site of Macy’s. Educated by tutors as a b...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Peri Himal, Panbari Himal, First Ascent

Panbari Himal, first ascent. The unclimbed Panbari Himal, a remotely situated 6,905m snow peak, was only opened to foreign expeditions in 2002. The mountain lies immediately north of the Larkya La (5,135m), a relatively spectacular pass that forms...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Africa, Tanzania, Kilimanjaro

Kilimanjaro. Drew Sparn, age 11, reached the summit of Africa’s Mount Kilimanjaro and shares the title as the youngest person ever to reach that 19,340 foot summit. He summitted via the Machame route.Cameron Burns


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Grand Central Tower, Peshastin Pinnacles

Grand Central Tower, Peshastin Pinnacles. The entirely overhanging southeast face was climbed in two sessions of largely artificial climbing, which involved the use of pitons from knife-blades to giant wooden blocks. A few bolts were needed, and a...


Book Reviews AAJ
Volkserbe der Schweiz

Volkserbe der Schweiz. Six volumes in a series under this general title. Basel: Urs Graf Verlag, 1943-46. Price, $4.50 each.Each of these six volumes deals with a separate canton. They are finely illustrated and, though they are not of the same se...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington - Cascade Mountains, Darrington Walls

Darrington Walls. Although the Washington Cascades are not exactly known for having an oversupply of good granite, it was not until two years ago that climbers became aware of the beautiful and challenging walls and outcrops along the waters of Sq...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Arctic, P c. 4000, Pangnirtung Fiord

P C. 4000, Pangnirtung Fiord. In August Brian Carey, Nancy Van Deren and I made the first ascent of a 4000-foot peak five miles south of Overlord Peak and two miles from the east shore of Pangnirtung Fiord. We climbed a snow-filled couloir on the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Real, Illimani and Huayna Potosí

Illimani and Huayna Potosí, Cordillera Real. On August 21 the Americans David and Leslie Kallgren and I climbed Illimani. On August 26 I soloed Huayna Potosí by the normal route.José Miguel Cuevas, Universidad de Madrid


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Peaks near the Freshfield Icefield

Peaks near the Freshfield Icefield. In August, I spent 16 days alone in the region just west and south of the Freshfield Icefield. Approaching from the east, I hiked for two days to Bush Pass, descended into the headwaters of the Valenciennes Rive...


Book Reviews AAJ
Tiquimani

Tiquimani, by Margaret Griffin. Stellenbosch, South Africa: Kosmo Publishers, 1965. 164 pages; 1 color frontispiece, 21 photographs and 2 sketch-maps on inside covers.This is the story of the first South African expedition to the Andes. Since in t...