Royal Tower, North Face, and Other Climbs, Little Switzerland. Bill McKenna and I spent nine days at the end of May in Little Switzerland on the Pica Glacier. We established a new route on the north face of the Royal Tower and did a few other hard...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDSAlberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount John Laurie (Mount Yamnuska)A climber fell and broke his leg on June 5. The man was climbing a route called The Bowl (145 m. 5.10a) when he grabbed onto a chalk-covered handhold...
Chicago Mountaineering Club. In August, the Club sponsored its eleventh Western Outing. It was conducted in the Northern Cascade Range in Washington, with Base Camp situated a half mile east of Cascade Pass. The camp was attended by 66 participant...
Turnweather Glacier, Sangtraït. When Frank Van Herreweghe (Belgian, but Catalonian citizen) and I arrived at Auyuittuq National Park, we felt really happy. After months waiting for this moment, finally we were in Baffin, ready to enjoy this unknow...
Trail Country: Olympic National Park, by Robert L. Wood. Seattle, Washington: The Mountaineers, 1968. 298 pages, 24 photographs, 24 maps. Price: $6.95.Drawing on 20 years of research and study of the Olympic Peninsula, and 20 summers spent largely...
The Mountaineers. Interest in The Mountaineer Climbing Course continued high during 1965, with 274 students in the Basic Course and 61 new enrollees in the Intermediate Course. A record 106 climbers graduated from the Basic Course, while 12 receiv...
Cordillera Real and Cordillera Occidental. My wife Ria and I were in the field from August 3 to September 14. We first climbed in the Cordillera Real from the valley of Río Palcoco and Laguna Khunu Kkota. Base Camp was at 4800 meters at the tongue...
A.A.C., Oregon Section. During the past year the Section lost two of its oldest members, Beatrice de Lacy and Fred Ayres, and gained ten new ones giving a current total of 51. At our regular dinner meetings we were entertained by Price Zimmermann’...
Kula Kangri, Third Ascent. It was reported that a Spanish expedition made the third ascent of Kula Kangri (7554m) in May. Base camp was established on May 4; by May 15, a route that roughly followed the west ridge had been established to Camp II a...
Vinson Massif. On November 27, Reinhold Messner, Wolfgang Tomaseth and I reached the highest point of Antarctica 26 hours after Giles Kershaw had landed us below the peak. The weather was wonderful and the climb, during which we slept at what is n...
Chinchey. Our group consisted of Dennis Hegyi, E. Gregory Lee, Neil E. Paton, Timothy J. Ryan, Anthony W. Thompson, Joseph M. Weiss and me. We were international since Paton is from New Zealand and I am from the Netherlands, although the rest are ...
Kangerdlugssuaq Mountains, first ascents. To celebrate the centenary of the Cambridge University Mountaineering Club, eight members planned an expedition to East Greenland during July. As our departure time from the U.K. approached, it became obvi...
Everest Ascent and Tragedy. A Spanish Catalan expedition led by Lluis Belvis was composed of 22 members, including a film crew, doctor and scientist. They hoped to climb the west ridge of Everest. Base Camp was established at 5320 meters on August...
FALLING ROCKS, WEATHER Wyoming, TetonsRobert (51), Bob (21) and David (16) Frank signed out at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station on August 1, 1985, for a climb of the Skillet Glacier on Mt. Moran the following day. They left the String Lake trailhead ...
Fitz Roy, Supercanaleta. Max Berger, Jérome Blanc-Gras, and I made a winter ascent of Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy on August 9. Ours was the third or fourth winter ascent, the first reported winter ascent having been made by Argentine climbers.Condit...
Mount Dawson, North Face, Selkirk Range, 1988. Fred Beckey, Dave Pollari and I approached the Dawson group from Rogers Pass on August 2, 1988, crossing the Illecillewaet Icefield to the Glacier Circle Hut. After a day of rain, we climbed over the ...
The highlight of the Antarctic season was undoubtedly the string of big climbs done by the French team of Mathieu Cortial, Lionel Daudet, and Patrick Wagnon, traveling aboard Isabelle Autissier’s Ada II. This was Daudet's third voyage to the...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, EXHAUSTION,INEXPERIENCEWashington, LeavenworthOn April 19, 1987, Larry Laske (24) reported that he had successfully led two pitches of 5.8 on Airy Canary on Castle Rock and wanted more of a challenge. He started ...
Bhagirathi II. A five-man Japanese expedition led by Mineo Kawai climbed Bhagirathi II (6512 meters, 21,365 feet) by its east face. Base Camp was set up on July 23. After reconnoitering the north face, they turned to the east face. Camps I and II ...
Alaska: Kenai Peninsula. While hiking on the Spencer Galcier in the Kenai Peninsula, Gerald Rose, 21, fell into a crevasse and was killed. His companion, Robert Rose, 23, went for help. Rescue operations were hampered by bad weather, including 60-...