P C. 4000, Pangnirtung Fiord. In August Brian Carey, Nancy Van Deren and I made the first ascent of a 4000-foot peak five miles south of Overlord Peak and two miles from the east shore of Pangnirtung Fiord. We climbed a snow-filled couloir on the ...

Illimani and Huayna Potosí, Cordillera Real. On August 21 the Americans David and Leslie Kallgren and I climbed Illimani. On August 26 I soloed Huayna Potosí by the normal route.José Miguel Cuevas, Universidad de Madrid

Peaks near the Freshfield Icefield. In August, I spent 16 days alone in the region just west and south of the Freshfield Icefield. Approaching from the east, I hiked for two days to Bush Pass, descended into the headwaters of the Valenciennes Rive...

Tiquimani, by Margaret Griffin. Stellenbosch, South Africa: Kosmo Publishers, 1965. 164 pages; 1 color frontispiece, 21 photographs and 2 sketch-maps on inside covers.This is the story of the first South African expedition to the Andes. Since in t...

Mount Austerity, North Ridge, Nester Route, Selkirks. Earlyn Church’s obituary for Ed Nester in A.A.J., 1979 called the route he was attempting “elegant.” On July 30 Jules Bede and I completed the route Ed had conceived and attempted in 1968 (bad ...

Half Dome, Direct North Face. The 2000-foot north face of Half Dome was first climbed in June, 1957. As of December, 1963, the original route, circuitous but beautiful, has been ascended 10 times. Since the first ascent, climbers have wondered abo...

Uruashraju, Northwest Face, Kashan Este, Northeast Face, and Other Peaks. Our expedition was composed of Pete du Preez, Tim and Janet Hughes, Jonathan Levy, Michael Scott, Dr. Robin Sandell, Antonio da Cruz, Des Watkins, Mrs. Felicity Eggelston, m...

FALL INTO CREVASSE Washington, Mt. BakerOn July 26, Paul Heraty (26) was crossing a small snow bridge that was also supporting a large rock when the bridge gave in and the rock landed on the victim’s left leg. He was two and a half miles up the st...

Copa and attempt on Huascarán, Cordillera Blanca. From Base Camp at the lake below the southwest face of Copa (20,351 feet), Art Mears, Jerry Halpern, Robin Wilson, my wife Barbara and I moved up to our high camp at 17,000 feet on June 19. We all ...

Haramosh II, First Ascent and Tragedy. Our trip was run in as lightweight style as possible. The cost was initially estimated by a remarkably simple calculation: “Nunn’s Law,” which states that the net cost per head of any expedition is about “a t...

Iowa Mountaineers. The club found 1962 to be an active year, its twenty-third of operation since its founding in 1940. The club now has 368 Active and Expedition members who reside in 38 states and five foreign countries. In addition it has a larg...

Mount Alberta. Five climbers of the Old Boys’ Alpine Club of Nagano Prefecture High School, led by Mamoru Tajima, made the second Japanese ascent of Mount Alberta on July 29.Ichiro Yoshizawa, Japanese Alpine Club

Washington, Cascades, Nooksack Tower. On July 21 Mike Kennedy and Roger Jackson (28) were approaching the Nooksack Tower. The approach requires the fording of the Nooksack River. The river is glacial melt, and swift, yet has a rocky irregular bott...

Ecological Impact on the Nanda Devi Area. It appears that many expeditions that enter the Garhwal leave the campsites, both on the march in and on the mountains, in a mess. There is no reason why a campsite on the march in should not be left clean...

Mt. Kenya, Various Ascents. In late February, Benny Bach and I spent a month on Mt. Kenya, making ascents of several of the bigger summits (Batian, Nelion, Point John, Point Lenana) by their standard routes, then climbing several obscure but excel...

Hayes Range Ski Traverse. Mike Brown, Richard Cooper, David Williams and I made a ski traverse of the Hayes Range during the spring of 1986, climbing six minor peaks on the way. Leaving the George Parks Highway at mile 229 on March 29, we arrived ...

North Carolina, Durham. On 23 November a party of climbers from the University of North Carolina were practicing rock climbing technique at an abandoned rock quarry about one mile south of Durham. George Huppert (20) and Joseph McSwain started to ...

Fuladi Valley. Led by Zbigniew Szarejko, the Geographical-Scientific Expedition of the University of Wroclaw was made up of J. Sacewicz, Z. Laczmanski, J. Pietruszka, J. Szarejko, E. Szymanski, Z. Kacuga, J. Klincewicz, W. Panejko and Dr. A. Chrus...

German Expedition to the Cordillera Huayhuash. An expedition of the Oberland Section of the German Alpine Club (DAV), led by Horst Wels, was dogged throughout by bad luck which finally ended in the tragic death of three of its members, Manfred Jor...

Tilicho Attempt. A joint German-Swiss expedition attempted Tilicho in the pre-monsoon season via the north ridge from the east. The leader was Dr. Jörg Biel. They reached about 20,000 feet. Of only three climbing members, one got sick. The Sherpas...