Devil's Thumb massif, everything. Four years ago on an expedition to nearby Oasis Peak, Dieter Klose planted a seed: the complete traverse of Devil’s Thumb. This seed grew into a dream that blossomed into reality in July, as Andre Ike of Squamish,...
Cordillera Apolobamba, Overview. After an unprecedented amount of activity in the area in 1997, 1998 saw three commercial expeditions and perhaps only four significant climbing trips to the Apolobamba. Conditions were good early in the season, but...
P 7401 and P 6283, Thompson Ridge Area, 1988. Austrian Thomas Schranz and I were flown to a sandbank in a river bed in the Thompson Ridge area. We found the rock terribly rotten and tried to keep as much as possible on snow and ice. After climbing...
SLIP ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, UNFAMILIAR WITH ROUTE Alaska, Mount McKinleyAbout 1300 on May 18,1986, Steven Locher (20) a member of a four man “Pro LeisureTour Expedition,” fell approximately 100 meters from the 4300 meter level while the pa...
Meru North. An all-woman Polish expedition was led by Danuta Wach. They made the first women’s ascent, following the Japanese-Austrian route via the northeast face and north ridge. On September 8 Aneila Lukaszewska, Ewa Pankiewicz and Danuta Wach ...
South Howser Spire, Northeast Buttress, Bugaboos. In the summer of 1990, Jon Turk and I climbed an excellent route on the left side of the east face of South Howser Spire. On the approach, we could see other inviting lines. In August of 1991, we r...
FALL ON SLAB AND SCREE, NO EQUIPMENT Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade MountainIn July, 1988, two young scramblers looking for an outing decided to climb Cascade Mountain above Banff. Without any research they reached the peak by a direct line, av...
KEITH E. HART1927-1996Keith E. Hart of Juneau, Alaska, died on April 27 at the age of 69. Hart was bom in Portland, Oregon in 1927 and raised in Vancouver, Washington. He moved to Fairbanks, Alaska, in 1952 to attend the University of Alaska. Hart...
Chandra Parbat. Chandra Parbat II (6728 meters, 22,075 feet) lies between the Suralaya and Sweta Glaciers. This peak was first climbed by Austrians in 1938 and again in 1965 and 1974. Possibly it is called Chandra Parbat, rather than Chandra Parba...
Teton Range1During the 1936 season there were several important new climbs, most of them on the Grand Teton and resulting from the introduction of piton climbing for the first time on a considerable scale in the Tetons. The season undoubtedly reac...
Climbs in the Kobuk Valley, Arrigetch, Brooks Range. Bob Forbes, Rafael Gurvis*, John Lyon*, Petter Millar, Hope Yandell and I* decided that the Kobuk valley would be a suitable place to spend our energies. The Kobuk had been only superficially ex...
Brooks Range, Endicott Mountains. Working for the Park Service, Walt Rogers and I trekked on snowshoes this spring from the upper Negu across the entire Killik basin to Okomilaga and Chandler Lake. The significance of the Killik depression as a sn...
Mount Torment, North Ridge. Since the ridge traverse from Torment to Forbidden Peak in 1958 (A.A.J., 1959, 11:2, pp. 301-2.), I had been anxious to return to this magnificent, alpine northern cirque wall. Starting from the Boston Mine trail near C...
K2, Solo Ascent and Attempt. Yasushi Yamanoi and I came back to Japan from K2 on August 25. Voytek Kurtyka and Yasushi looked at the east face, but gave up because of bad weather. Voytek left soon after, as he was not interested in any other route...
Ama Dablam Winter Ascents. There were two expeditions on the normal southwest ridge of Ama Dablam during the winter climbing season. Warwick Baird, one of two Australians, paired up with members of the South Koreans in a climb to the summit on Dec...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY Washington, Cascade MountainsOn July 26, 1988, Petert Potterfield (38) was leading around a corner on U-Gap when he fell after making an off route move. He had a sling over a rock horn for protection. He went 20 to 3...
University of Washington Mountaineers: The Mountaineers climbed in many of the best climbing areas of this continent during the past summer. Several members took part in the King Peak-Yukon Expedition, 1952, which climbed King Peak and Mt. Augusta...
The Abominable Snowman, by Ralph Izzard. 250 pages, 26 photographs. New York: Doubleday & Co., 1955. Price $4.00.The Abominable Snowman (Yeti) has a warm place in my heart because of a story my son told me. Some years ago he and some Sherpa po...
Alaska Alpine Club. The 1960 climbing season began in February with a three-man party reaching the summit of Institute Peak (8000 feet) in the Alaska Range. In April, 20 people participated in a Castner Glacier trip, with eight climbers making the...
FALLING ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Leaning TowerOn July 5, 1992, I spoke with Brad Young (32) at the Yosemite Medical Clinic about a climbing accident that he and his climbing partner Doug Burton (age not noted) were involved in on the Leani...