Makrong Chhish Attempt and Tragedy. Steve Hillen, Mike Penlington, Dave Tyson and I traveled on June 16 with three jeeps along the Karakoram Highway from Gilgit to Nagar. At Nagar, 30 porters were hired. The jeeps continued to Huru, the furthest j...

Baboquivari Peak, Southeast Buttress Chimney. This dominant pyramidal peak is located 60 miles southwest of Tucson. The southeast buttress chimney is a prominent crack which rises 650 feet from a diagonal ledge that cuts the east face and ends in ...

Thalay Sagar Attempt. Our expedition was made up of Jordi Camprubi, Fredi Puig, Joan Vila, Toti Llobera and me as leader. We attempted to make the fourth ascent of the northeast ridge, first climbed by Norwegians and Poles in 1983. We placed Base ...

Ocshapalca, South Face. It was reported that Spanish climbers Belta Fonseca and Rafa Santesteban climbed a new route, Insumisioa, on the steep and fluted south face of Ocshapalca (5881 meters). The 600-meter route has sections of 90° ice. (High Mo...

LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, POOR POSITIONWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Disappointment PeakOn July 17, 1992, at 1615, a climber (29) was descending the Lake Ledges route on Disappointment Peak when he fell as he was attempting to glis...

Amphu South (6,146m), west face; Amphu Middle (6,238m), north face and northwest ridge; Nuptse East (7,795m), south face, attempt; Lhotse (8,516m), south face, attempt. Before going to Nepal I read about the climbers who had dared to try the south...

Chiquito Dome, “Jigsaw Puzzle”. In May, Conrad Van Bruggen and I also climbed this route just left of Cheeseburger in Paradise. Start on a smooth face leading to a four-foot roof 200 feet above the ground. A F8 pitch ends on a ledge (pins useful f...

Goat Flat, Bomber Lake Arête. On September 5, Fred Beckey and I climbed a long, low-angled ridge south of Bomber Lake in the northern Wind River Range. The ridge leads to Goat Flat, an enormous, flat plateau south of the Bomber Creek drainage. The...

Mount Kennedy. The Canadian government has given the name of Mount Kennedy, in honor of the late president, to the lovely mountain which lies just east of Mounts Alverstone and Hubbard, peaks on the Yukon-Alaskan border. The coordinates of the new...

Ubekendt Ejland, West Greenland. A University of St. Andrews party revisited the mountains of Akuliaruseq peninsula and of Upernivik Island in the Umanak district of West Greenland at 71°N, (A.A.J., 1968, p. 182; A.A.J., 1970, p 153). We were on t...

Cathedral Arch, Bats in the Belfry. In June, I got a call from Jeff Lowe asking if I would film and photograph an attempt on a new route in remote Arch Canyon, 25 miles west of Blanding in southeast Utah. I hardly ever turn down a job that pays me...

Shishapangma, notes on the Lafaille ascent and winter season. When the Nepalese Government established a winter season for the Nepal Himalaya lasting from December 1 to February 15, their rules also stated that while camps could be established abo...

Climbing Mount Everest, The Bibliography: The Literature and History of Climbing the World’s Highest Mountain. Compiled by Audrey Salkeld and John Boyle. Sixways Publishing, Clevedon BS21 7SL, England, 1993. 120 pages, soft cover. $20.As a leading...

Sinister Peak, North Face. My brother Carl, Gary Brill and I completed this snow face on August 1. Starting from the Blizzard-Gunsight Col we made a quick traverse across the Chickamin Glacier in order to gain the face at its lowest point. On 45° ...

Charlotte Dome. John Liebeskind and I climbed Shake it like a Bowl of Soup, a beautiful 11-pitch route on the dome’s 1000-foot south face. Our route left the classic Rowell-Jones-Beckey line after the first fifth-class pitch and angled far right f...

FALLING ROCK California, Yosemite ValleyAt 2 p.m. on June 12, Larry Fennern (29) was climbing The Caverns route (5.7) when he was struck by a falling rock. Fennern was on the third pitch when the accident occurred. A party of four other climbers g...

FitzRoy. The expedition of the Centro Andino Buenos Aires was unsuccessful in its attempt to climb FitzRoy although it was composed of some of the best Argentine mountaineers, José Luis Fonrouge, Jorge Peterek, Carlos Comesaña and Jorge Insúa.Vojs...

Climbs in Wasatch Mountains. Mark McQuarrie and I made the first winter ascent of the northeast face of Mount Ogden. The nine leads took eight hours in a bad snowstorm. The crux pitch was an ice-and-snow-filled chimney topped by an overhang in the...

FALL ON SNOWAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Moraine Lake, 3-3½ CouloirOn July 10, 1981, a party of two were climbing the 3-3½ Couloir, unroped, en route to the Graham Cooper Hut. Approximately three quarters of the way up, one climber stopped to adjust ...

Cerro Ojos del Salado, Possible New Route, and Other Activity. Among the many teams active in the region, two Brazilian teams made climbing attempts; one was unsuccessful on Ojos del Salado and Pissis, while the other party claimed a new route, th...